Xenon
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Quoted from Frax:Anyone had issues with the ball getting stuck at the entrance to the tube?
The long thin micro switch wire needs to be adjusted so that it runs
flush with the wall when activated. It also needs to be adjusted to
where there is no tension on the spring wire when closed.
Quoted from Frax:I'm gonna dick around with it tomorrow, but was just going to order a new switch and bend a new wire
The original wire has a weird "u" turn loopback then does a 45* type turn
then, that part fits through the slot. The wire is very long, the wire goes
almost to the inside of the tube.
It is long in order for the ball, if it does a weak shot, could
roll back down the ramp without getting stuck.
On Bally systems, U6 is a utility ROM and U2 etc..., are the personality
ROM to the game at hand.
Note: a large part of U6 is devoted to shifting logic in and out of
---- the 5101 ram, four bits at a time.
Quoted from Black_Knight:Spinner - Is the sound always active on it?
All switch are supposed to make a sound.
As far as the spinner goes... it should have
a weird flutter sound and another weird
sound when lit.
Quoted from Zablon:intermittently kicking
Cap. .05 MFD 12v (E-586-80)
& 1N4004 / 1N4148 (E-587-6) or (E-587-14)
If not... SE9302 (E-00585-0034)
If not ...CA3081 (E-00681)
If not...1N4004 (E-587-6)
Quoted from stashyboy:Does anyone know where I might find a reproduction power supply warning decal you know, the yellow sticker that goes on the power supply board believe it has red lettering. Thanks in advance
a Pinsider that restored a Bally Eight Ball Deluxe had the decal reproduced.
Check the Bally Eight Ball Deluxe club.
Xenon's acronyms are
1) KMIEC =
KINETIC
MOLECULAR
INTEGRATED
EVOLUTION
CYLINDER
2) MOTA =
MOLECULAR
OBJECT
TUBE
AWARD
Quoted from InfiniteLives:picking up a xenon tomorrow.
can anyone tell me how wide the backbox is? and maybe how tall the game is in the back when the head is folded down? that would be fantastic to make sure itll fit in my hatch back
Thanks!
Dave
There is no hinge to the back box.
You can unbolt the back box and strap it down if the wires are long enough.
Or, you have to disconnect the wires from the PCB boards and unscrew the ground strap
from the ground shield and carefully move the back box off the pedestal/nick of the main cabinet.
Quoted from JDissen87:tube is scratched up pretty badly, not sure I can clean that up or where to get a replacement
If someone has the tube for sale... you can buy it from them.
Other than that, a good plastic supply house should have the clear tubes on sale ...
You just need to get the right size and if you are lucky...
they might even cut the tube to the right length.
Quoted from tomdrum:Let me know if you need more.
If you could... cover each part with masking tape and draw around the edges and holes...
Flattin the masking tape patterns, and if he could pay for the mailing for the patterns.
That way, one has an kind of an accurate set of patterns to be fabricated.
Quoted from Lovef2k:That's odd, are you sure it's a Xenon cab? Does the serial number on the side start with EXE?
The speakers are a always questionable... I have a Bally Flash Gordon with two speakers.
As I recall, Bally and others, would put whatever was available, at that time, to keep the
assembly line going. So... if one supply house was going on empty they would use another.
Quoted from dombutler:I have a question about post colors, I see that most people are using blue posts, but the originals are more of an orange/yellow color.
Xenon OEM post color was a light blue color.
The post colors over the years have gotten oxidized.
The ribbed post reproduced today is of a darker blue color.
Xenon might look fantastic with clear posts.
--------------------------------------------
Note: Xenon came with red filters for the G.I. lamps...
----1) Four red filters for the top arch.
----2) Four red filters for the 1,2,3,4, behind the D/T.
----3) Two blue filters for the left G.I. flasher FX.
AnnKH
Note: you need a mini post assembly in front of the left spinner...
The top left mini post behind the spinner next to the tube does not
have a mini post rubber put on it.
Please put a ring on the lower right posts...
Your playfield is so mint...
Your game looks awesome!
Congratulations.
Quoted from vassq:Two fold question.
Are the tubes on Cybernaut the same as Xenon..?
If so where do get these replacements....?
Thanks
Quoted from vassq:Where can replacement tubes be had.????
I need one for cybernaut..
Take your tube to a plastic supply shop. I believe the tubes are made out of acrylic.
Quoted from schwarz:Anybody ever make a plastic for this spot?[quoted image]
Their was a plastic piece that was for the top right... The piece was never used in production.
The part was hidden buy the metal ramp assembly. One can find the missing plastic on IPDB.
The area that you have pointed out, has the white plastic clap filling in that spot.
Quoted from vassq:A plastic supply shop..? That's a very vague answer. You know why I didn't think of that..? Because I never heard of one.
If you know of one then maybe I could order one....
Plastic Supply Inc., of Maine
2 Karen Drive, Stop 4Westbrook, Maine 04092
(207)775-7778
(800)287-7835
(207)775-6044 FAX
Maine’s Original Source for all your CNC Routing, Fabrication, Welding, Sign Supplies and Engineering Plastics
Contact Us Today for a Quote
www.plasticsupplyofmaine.com
[email protected]
-----------------------------------
Try these guys... They could probably help you.
Quoted from Dutchy:These are the spot the ball gets stuck
The top picture...
there is supposed to be a pin in that spot to keep the ball from getting stuck.
Quoted from Quench:Two Xenons I worked on last year had the plastic cover, another had a metal cover.
I'm going to assume that the plastic cover is for the early production and
the metal cover is for later. The metal cover is faster to install on an assembly
line than the plastic style cover. Or they ran two separate lines from different
suppliers. A collection of serial numbers could add insightfulness to the variations to the two
outhole trough design.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Another note, these mirrors were given out at show as a promotional item. The had a xenon sticker placed over them. Pretty rare to find but I got one.
I remember seeing those promotional mirrors.
Excellent that you have one.
The yellow is to weak. Looks good...
I wish CPR would test their inks and adjust
against an original OEM part.
Quoted from EdHess:I spoke with the guy that did the color work. Told me that when they scanned oem artwork that due to the mirroring everything came out black or dark. So they literally have to do each color individually. Its not like scanning an original and hitting print on your computer. Sounded like a long tedious process.
Yea.. I know color separation is not fun...
O.K. So they know their is a problem; do to the mirroring.
So why didn't they use a masking fluid or Liquid Frisket?
Or at least give it a try? I know some parts would be a pain to do...
But they could have experimented to see if a solution could be achieved.
I don't know if they can scan the back glass all lighted up so that the depth of the colors
could be better registered... rather than unlighted.
I read that the problem CPR has is making a copy of a copy causes a degradation of detail.
I guess it is what it is.
At the time Bally was making these pinballs, the company had several lines
of production. They were contracting anybody to supply them with parts.
8 ohm speakers is normal for the amp... run out of 8 ohm speakers
and a supply chain has 4 ohm speakers... great! just double them up
to equal 8 ohms and the production line isn't ground to a halt for
lack of parts. Etc,etc,etc.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I always wondered if the Sounds Plus and Vocalizer set up are interchangeable with S&T without re-wiring the connector.
I know the early Bally sound board connector is compatible with other
sound boards Bally did... I had to add an extra wire to test a later style
sound board inside a Super Sonic.
For the longest time I could not figure out why their is a +48 volt line
to the connector for the S&T board connector inside an EBD.
I would double check everything if you are testing other sound boards
using another generation machines.
Quoted from Spudgunman:the matching post under the tube area any one got the number for them
Are you talking about the two spool style white posts that support entrance of the tube?
If so, Bally part No. C-942.
Not documented in parts catalog.
( I called Bally back in the 1980's for the part number ).
Quoted from JeffZee:I too replaced that post with something chunkier that I found in my scrap box.
[quoted image]
The Bally mini post & rubber ring assembly part No.
AS-2836-1 was heavily flawed.
They all, for the most part, broke on Xenon.
The part has an 8-32 thread machine screw base.
Amended part No. 0365-00700-00XF,
this part has a 10-32 thread machine screw base.
Quoted from pb456:Has anyone found an updated ROM for Xenon - to retheme the game or upgrade it? Just wondering.
I saw a Xenon that was painted a solid metallic blue.
I guess you were supposed to see it with 3D glasses.
Quoted from koji:Curious what you would change. The current rules seem decent, and get you shooting around the PF.
In a way Bally Cybernaut pinball is a reprogrammed, re-themed, redesigned Xenon pinball;
from Greg Kmiec.
OEM Xenon had...
1) top arch x4 red tube
2) side drop target x4 red tube
3) left side x2 blue tubes ( by exit )
4) tube lamps wheat bulbs ( incandescence )
5) all lamps #44 bayonet ( incandescence )
-- except as noted above.
I did a repair on a Xenon that had a special bayonet style lamps
for the four drop targets. The lamps had a concave top that was like
a magnifier... It allowed a bright sharp spotlight effect to light the
plastic numbers but was very dim to light around the rest of the
surface. I could never find these lamps with the suppliers that
were around back in the day. I believe the lamps might have come
from Europe.
The purpose of the mini post, was for the ball to bounce back after a failed ramp shot.
If your game is pitched at such a height that it makes no sense to have it...
I would just remove the mini post assembly from the game.
I would fined a button plug and use it to patch the hole.
Quoted from koji:I love that post and consider it a major feature. I find it provides a chance at a lazerus about 1 in 5 balls or so on mine, coming down the left outlane with enough speed will bounce the ball to the flippers... no nudge required, so a legal play .
I played a Xenon that did that back when the game was in the arcades... Good times. 
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:What do you folks think the winning strategy is on this game?
I like to max-out the tube award; especially when it is on one advance at a time.
I only use a file if I have a pit that catches the contacts.
Other than that I buff the points to the flippers ( old style )
with a thin metal strip that I have had for a long time.
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:Does anyone know how to de activate Attract mode on the game?
You could open the back box, and unplug the convectors to the lamp boards and the speech board.
That way you could only have the displays present.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Nos since you are clearing it.
Ditto for me. N.O.S. has more detail than the reproduction.
Quoted from jibmums:CPR gold from the most recent run
I bought a CPR "gold" and they sent me a not so "gold" playfield.
[ I would refer to it as a "Lead""Pb" grade ]
I ordered a second one... and it came in better condition.
Quoted from pinflip_:From what I can tell the standoffs that hold up the light tube are Bally pt. no. 03-8371, which is a white spool that is a height of
1-1/8".If someone can verify this, that would be great. The pictures below show the three spots in question...
Bally No. C-942 White spool post. Equivalent # 03-8371.
My Xenon has three posts.
1) Two posts have "C" clamps attached.
2) Two posts, one on each end, have a grey spacer added to extend height for pcb lamp FX.
3) Lovef2k has more info on setup.
4) Missing from your picture is the ball deflector on the upper left side.
-- You have the two truss screws, but no metal deflector bracket.
-- Or the bracket is located higher up and not shown.
Quoted from pinflip_:the grey plastic spacers 1-5/8"
I think the grey spacers are about ½" long or less.
Quoted from StoneyCreek:is there a dipswitch setting that allows Xenon to be set to free play?
Answer: No
Bally Pinballs are designed to be on location making money,
and not a free amusement.
As mentioned above post #731 by @vid1900.
Quoted from gdonovan:I just have mine set to award 2 credits when 100,000 is exceeded and set maximum credits to 30.
Yup.
Quoted from mrm_4:Im not sure there’s much original hardware. It’s a mess up top. I’ll probably be doing the hardtop next week so I’m just trying to figure out the original places for the posts and makes sure the proper style posts are accounted for. Lot of extra holes have been drilled into this baby and some extra posts for different rubbers. My guess to make it easier to maintain on route.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I temporarily have a spool on the left to hold the light strip up.
[quoted image]
Metal post is not to be there... The top right rubber ring is a large "whip around" ring.
Quoted from mrm_4:Since were up in this area of the playfield. What’s the fix here?
Can’t win. Get it to allow the ball to roll back but then it’s not enough to engage the switch.
[quoted image]
I shaped the wire to rest along the wall... the ball has to drop into the tube to release.
If it rolls back, no problem no fuss.
Quoted from gdonovan:If you go over to the internet pinball database they show a picture of early plastics and there is a piece for the area you are working in. Consensus was it was left out for money reasons.
The piece missing goes to the top right under the metal cover.
The part was more obstructive to implement.
Quoted from gdonovan:Interesting, it looks like it would fit in the area of discussion.
It would, if you removed the metal switch covers.
Quoted from gdonovan:Why would they even make a piece that would be covered by the metal cover anyway?
I can only think that it was part of the development of the game...
The out hole system went through changes also.
It is all part of the game manufacturing life cycle...
Quoted from mrm_4:Trying to solve a mini mystery with lighting.
I have these 2 WHT-GRN that lead to the light socket behind the yellow stand up target.
If I trace the 2 wires, 1 goes to the back box but the other is severed right behind the drop targets.
I’m looking at the tech sheet and it says it’s supposed to go to the “Door frame top & right 3 and 4”
What the hell is that???
Can someone post a pic of where this wire comes out of the harness and where it attaches? I imagine it’s somewhere on the left between the flippers and kick out.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
One goes to the right. The other to the left but it’s cut.
[quoted image]
( WHT-GRN )
1) End-of Tube-Lane.
2) Coin #3 [ not part of playfield ]
3) #4 top button.
4) Shooter lane.
5) Left side saucer.
-----------------------------------------
LAMP
AUX board
( WHT-GRN )
Side saucer [ single wire to two lamps? ] Q5
4 top & right { back box fx } Q24
Quoted from waldo34:Can someone help me out with a picture and how to install the LED strip, please. It was missing and clearly in my rebuild it's sitting too low on top of the pop bumper.
[quoted image]
You are missing two grey spacers... One at each end.
Quoted from waldo34:Need some more help. Finally made it to the restore point of powering it on. Fuse on the underside of the playfield is blowing. Looks like the kick out hole solenoid engages when powered on but does not disengage. Replace the coil with a brand new one from Marco. Check the resistors on the board they all appear to be within range. The switch is also open. Any thoughts on what the check next? Thanks.[quoted image]
Unplug the connector to the output of the solenoid voltage regulator.
You most likely have a bad transistor.
Quoted from JDissen87:I'll check my other one that I was planning to keep for my own game and see if its any different.
Are there two different versions of the outer backglass?
Yes!.. One has a cut out for Paul's signature... The other does not.
Quoted from pinflip_:For those who are missing the tube hardware, this is what I used to get my tube and light strip up:
This setup is for the two clamps pictured as on the Xenon Flyer.
Parts:
1) 6-32 Thread, 1-3/4" Long Zinc-Plated Steel Pan Head Phillips Screw x2
2) #8 x 2-1/2" Rounded Head Phillips Zinc-Plated x1
3) Bally No. C-942 White Spool Post. Equivalent # 03-8371 x3
4) 1/2" Spacer White (Pinball Resource GTB-28832) x2
5) #6 Fiber Washer x4
6) #6 Flat Washer x5
7) Cable Clamp 1-1/2" 2 hole x2
8) Light Strip x1
9) Tube x1
For the right side of the ramp: white spool first, then the cable clamp, followed by the 1/2" spacer, #6 flat washer, #6 fiber washer, light strip, #6 fiber washer, #6 flat washer, then finally the 2-1/2" wood screw.
[quoted image]
For the second clamp, white spool first, then the cable clamp, #6 flat washer, then the 1-3/4" machine screw.
[quoted image]
For the left side of the light strip follow the same process as the left side but omit the cable clamp.
[quoted image]
Here is the end result:
[quoted image]
Very well done! 
Quoted from Lovef2k:The bumper bodies don't look correct to me, more like the later Bally such as used on EBD, Fathom, etc.
You are correct!
Those are Williams pop bodies. 
Quoted from mkdud:I have a question regarding switch capacitors. I am replacing all of them as I'm doing a Xenon playfield changeover.
Should the switch for the spinner get a capacitor? There is not one listed on the schematics. Thanks, mk
No, only switches that have a fast response have capacitors.
Quoted from mkdud:I thought this switch would be fast response, especially if the spinner really gets smacked.
The switch action is such, that it gets wiped...
Not strucked like a stand up target.
The caps add a slight hold on the switch matrix, so as the cpu has time to read.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Could be a few things. Dirty switch contacts. Worn out contacts. Switch capacitor going bad. Switch needs adjustment. Should be about 1/16th or so. Skirt or spoon worn out.
Make sure it moves freely. Coil might be swelled from overheating or coil sleeve needs replaced.
Poor connection at solenoid driver. Lastly replace switch transistor if all else fails.
add cold solder joints on pcb... ring & rod bent...
Quoted from Lovef2k:I always start at the power supply. The rectifier board at the bottom of the main cabinet. Known as the -54. These boards tend to have burnt traces on the bottom so visually inspect it. Replace if you see dark spots. Marco sells a replacement.
You will need a good quality VOM meter. I suggest the Fluke 117 if you need to buy one. Unplug J1 thru 4 on the -54 and check the test points. This will be a no load test. If you don't know the values you can find them on pinwiki.com in the Bally/Stern section. There's a ton of helpful info about all of the boards in the game.
I believe all of the voltages are DC except the GI voltage which is AC so adjust meter accordingly. If you get a reading that is way off or zero. Unplug game and check the fuse by ohming it out, sometimes a fuse may look good but still be bad.
Also make sure the fuses are the correct type and amperage value.
If everything checks out good with power supply, reconnect connectors there and move on to the solenoid driver. Verify voltages at test points. Again pinwiki.com has all the info you need. If solenoid driver is good move on the mpu and do the same. The power supply and solenoid driver board have a high volt section so be very careful not to touch with bare hands or short anything with your meter probes.
Disconnect the sound board power up game paying close attention to the led on mpu board. There should be a flicker first and then 7 flashes if mpu is working correctly. If not count the flashes and report back here.
I concur.
Quoted from Kderrick:Not specific to Xenon but what would cause the digits to keep changing? Happens on all 4 displays.
[quoted image]
Is the game's high voltage stable?
Bally games need at least +165 voltage to light up.
Quoted from vid1900:It's supposed to be dark.
You think a classy chick like Xe is going to have sex in a Walmart?
Good one @vid1900! LOL.
Quoted from Kderrick:Is there a trick to fixing this? Other than being severely warped like homies codpiece, it’s in good shape.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Multi-ways... I use the top of the pinball glass and some old hardcover books...
I have a shrink tube gun... it gets very hot... I lay the plastic piece on the glass
and cover a part with the many books I have... I start at one open end and work it flat...
I wave the heat gun over the plastic very rapidly... You do not want to melt it.
Then, I move to another section... it takes awhile to get the hole plastic piece done.
I us the books to apply a flattening force to the warm plastic...
There are other ways to do it... It all depends on what you prefer.
I would chime in at the restoration blogs to get more advice.
Quoted from mrm_4:Am I missing something in the art work or is there a reference from another game? What is MOTA? Is it an acronym for something?
I don’t get it
Post "300" Xenon acronyms.
Quoted from RONR11:needing help with a multiball issue, all new allteck boards and was working great until today the multiball stopped working. after 3 upper saucer kickouts the 1st will stay in the left hole the lights in the apron/shooter lane flash but when second ball goes down left lane it trips the rollover sw before the left hole it kicks the first ball out but not the second. i have done a sw test and all are working correct . any ideas? thanks Ron
Did you go into the top saucer 3 times after the 1st ball lock?
Quoted from gdonovan:I would like to know as well, the ones in my FG were visibly distressed (cones dry out and tear/fall apart) and I replaced them with some "arcade replacements" as an interim measure but would like something with a bit more bass.
I did something like that... I copied the base amp circuit to Williams F14 and
fitted the circuit to the main sound board etc.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Agreed, I have a bunch of new ones. dscapo if you want a pair I can send you some for a couple dollars for postage if you aren't ordering anything from Marco in the near future.
Lovef2k you have a kind heart.
Quoted from play_pinball:Dual question here:
1. Left side of the pic, my game appears to be missing this little cover. Anyone have a lead on one or a good picture of what one looks like to recreate it?
2. Anyone have some solid pics of the spacer posts behind here? I am pretty sure my ramp was put together wrong when I got it. And I may have mixed up my pieces, so who knows what goes where at this point? I sure don't!
(pic borrowed from earlier in the thread)
[quoted image]
#1 flat bar stock with a right angle bend at the end.
#2 spool spacer with grey spacer and fabric washers to hold lamp strip.
Bottom to top
1) spool spacer [white]
2)grey spacer
3) felt/fabric washer
4) pcb lamp
5) felt/fabric washer
6) #6 metal washer
7) phillips round head #6 screw [long ]
Note: Search the photo morgue of this club for pictures of area of interests.
Quoted from Kderrick:Is this prototype real? Anybody know the story behind this XRated Nipple playfield? ebay.com link: itm
That is a CPR "gold" screened playfield... The yellow screen was replaced with gold.
Someone added the black nipple details...
The big giveaway is CPR never corrected the art to the left special drain arrow and
Bally omitted the two upper right lamp sockets, although they kept the curricular artwork.
Quoted from Lovef2k:240 in very small print if that means anything?
Yes! ABC pinball rubber rings are made for the pinball industry.
As one knows, the pinball industry would take a common size part
and tweak it to make it their own.
240 is the diameter of the rubber ring. .240"
Today manufactures make the pinball rubber rings in common
size .250" or 1/4" size.
Which of course is to large.
Quoted from mrm_4:Does anyone else have wolffpac displays installed and if so do you hear them in your speakers?
A low pitched distorted hum for about 2 seconds and then a high pitched distorted hum for 1 second in attracted mode.
The hum follows the switch between high score and score for the last game.
Classic Bally's with Gas discharge displays do the same thing.
Quoted from packie1:Any help on what goes here? More interested in posts and hardware.
Here is a picture of the general posts and rubber ring setup.
Lovef2k has posts length documentation, as noted.
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from jibmums:Any fellow owners mind checking their MPU J2 connector #2 position to see whether it's empty or an orange (no stripe) wire goes there? The manual says there should be an orange wire, my game currently has nothing there, and I can't find any photos that clearly show it either way. Thanks!
A4J2-2 = ST#1
[ all cabinet switches ]
1) ST1 to I7 {slam}
---ST1 to I6, I5, I4, I3 N.U.
---ST1 to I2 {coin #2}
---ST1 to I1 {coin #1}
---ST1 to I0 {coin #3}
-------------------------
2) ST1 is picked up by connector A4J3-3 [color 14] red-green.
--- too cabinet switch wiring harness.
Quoted from jibmums:empty space in J2-2?
Empty space.
ST#1 does not go to the playfield.
Quoted from DaveB8:Wow...I bought one of the last remaining 'gold' playfields from CPR a couple of years ago...looking at all of this has me amped up to start a swap...
[quoted image]
My only complaint, is the fact they never fixed the missing art work to the
right drain special red arrow. I guess they never will.
Quoted from tomdrum:I was thinking the round circle below the arrow might have been for an insert.
I saw a playfield that had the blue inserts in the playfield.
CPR refused to add the extra inserts back into the playfield.
The game had two return lane gates that the yellow targets activated.
The ball time was too long, so the feature was cut.
Bally Cybernaut pinball is basically a "Xenon 2.0" just cut-uped;
that has the two gates put back in.
Quoted from Lovef2k:What is missing?
Scrutinize a CPR playfield left drain arrow insert artwork against an OEM
Xenon playfield .
You can see the artwork is missing. I do not know
if the playfield they used had that part damaged or not.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:By the way, I know my switch screws are a little janky, it’s the way I’m dealing with them being too long for the new Williams style EOS switches. I’m heading to the hardware store tomorrow to find shorter screws and then it won’t look as janky, hopefully.
EOS screws are 5-40th.
If not available... hopefully the store has a 5-40th die, and you can
thread cut a 6-32nd screw.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I'm not 100% sure on the crank style flippers, but on the linear style the coils face the opposite direction than your pic. Somebody please chime in if I'm wrong.
Flipper coils:
OEM for any company flipper coil was the solder lugs were on the stop side....
SS electronic flipper coils with diodes were mounted with solder lugs on the stop side,
till Williams put out a service bulletin about 1986 on reversing the coil mount...
The reason was the vibration of the 50+ volt coils were causing the diodes to break.
The service bulletin recommended to cut the nylon stud off the flipper coil so it
could be mounted with the diodes facing forward. [ via High Speed ].
Later amendments to Williams flipper coils would have a notch cut into the front
bracket... late amendments would have the front bracket have notches on all three sides.
Also, the front bracket would remove the four punch studs removed, when the external
springs are introduced.
Quoted from PappyBoyington:Anybody?
I think the people that made that kind stuff got in trouble...
I think classic arcade might have something.
I have seen on YouTube a guy made a silkscreen print for Stern parts.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Just for my education, what's the function of the diode here?
The switches are constructed on a grid system.
Each diode isolates the grid to one switch closer.
Note: Certain states have anti-gambling/buying laws.
------ A black out window was placed over the credit window so no one
------ could by games off of the unknown value.
------ To let a player know that the game has credits the bottom card tray
------ has a lite indicator... how credits ??? One had to press the start button to find out.
Bally software geek
Notes: The Bally pinball software has two programs that run at the same time.
------- Fast acting solenoids are programmed to activate when a condition of
------- [open-closed] The rest of the switch program is designed to read
------- [open-closed-closed].
------- Zero phase is from the +50 volts. So noise from the flipper causes the little
------- spikes to the [open-closed] part of the software. Thus, a random fast response
------- solenoid gets picked and fired... even though a switch associated with the assembly
------- is not activated.
Bally software geek part two.
Note: Bally changed the zero crossing from the +50 volts
------ to the +6.5 lamp voltage... on later games.
------ R113 would be changed to a diode along with a new transformer.
------ The lamp circuitry would be divided in to two phases,
------ [Phase A] and [phase B] These changes seem to have fixed
------ the phantom solenoid firing that plagued the earlier designs.
Quoted from gdonovan:At what point? My Fireball Classic has phantom coil firing time to time.
Baby Pacman.... era. New transformer.
Lamps are split into two cycles.
Lamp SCR controls two lamps instead of one.
Lamp sockets have isolation diodes.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:the lamps behind the two circular stand up targets. Are these controlled or GI?
1) control.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:pops are supposed to be lit all the time correct?
2) yes.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Oh it's so close! I've gotten everything working, lamps all rewired and sorted. No switch errors in switch test. It goes into a game and scores fine.
Last issue. My brand new LED tube light strip is not lighting at all. Does nothing during a game or during lamp test mode.
Edit: On close inspection of the connector to the strip there is a bunch of blue goo in the first wire hole (orange/white wire). I removed the pin and tried to clean out the goo but still no lights. Guess I'm ordering another connector and pins.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That is the chemical reaction of the insulation jacket decomposing with the metal connector.
Atoms are switching around along with moister from the air...Copper oxide...
1) flux remover can clean the connector housing..
1a) apply new connector pins...
Quoted from SMP14:I've joined the club about a month ago. Sanded playfield put hardtop on, things coming together. I like the ice blue. Lots of things to read here as well, any suggestions on extra mods or tech tips?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
OEM upper arch used red lamp covers, same for 1,2,3,4, drop target lamps.
Quoted from runpatboyrun:CC: Lovef2k
I have now reflowed both J1 and J2 and still, these LEDs at the entrance of the tube are not lighting up!
Any suggestions on how I should move forward with this?
1) check continuity:
1a) Use a small conductive wire that is long.
1b) Test J1-25 by inserting wire into connector and Gnd of backbox.
1c) Does lamp lite-up ?
1d) If yes, then the problem could be the SCR Q2.
Quoted from vec-tor:1) check continuity:
1a) Use a small conductive wire that is long.
1b) Test J1-25 by inserting wire into connector and Gnd of backbox.
1c) Does lamp lite-up ?
1d) If yes, then the problem could be the SCR Q2.
2) Is J1-25 pin in good shape?
2a) If crushed, replace the .100m pin.
2b) If J1 is a IDC style connector, you have to remove, wire, IDC pin.
2ba) Use a .100 IDC tool or small flat blade to reinsert wire to connector.
Lovef2k can guide you with your problem.
Quoted from runpatboyrun:Thanks vec-tor, just to be 100%, do I take the connector out of J1-25 to test do I just connect my wire to the connector?
Thanks for taking the time. It is super appreciated!
1) test connector to lite strip first.
1a) remove J1,J3 connector from lamp board.
1b) with power on test connector to lamp strip "playfield" with wire.
1bb) make sure you are grounding the return NOT the +7volt dc.
1bbb) each LED should lite.
if O.K. then go to lamp connector in backbox.
Note: I do not know what style of lamp connector you have.
------ The lamp driver board is version 1 from 1977.
2) ground test J1-25 [stick one end of wire jumper into connector & other end to Gnd]
2a) does correct lamp lite up?
Quoted from mkdud:Can someone please what type of post is supposed to go here? Can you please give me a part # if possible?
This is right next to the shooter lane ball gate as the ball enters the playfield from the shooter lane.
Thanks much, mk
[quoted image]
That is a steel pin.
Marco has #02-5105 blurry picture no size documentation.
Gottlieb #A-10542 steel pin Pinball Resource.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I can't see why it's needed there. Centrifugal force should keep the ball up against the upper rail anyway.
The OEM playfield had a problem of the ball opening up the gate and going back into the
shooter lane.
The angle of the repo playfield, for the gates, is off a little bit.
Quoted from dothedoo:That’s consistent with the post location on my original playfield. [quoted image]
Wow that is a really nice upper playfield.
Quoted from SMP14:Has anyone verified or tried putting a switch made by M&M Creations where the tube shot is? mine is very intermittent and was thinking that It MIGHT work. Pic was from another user in this forum, just drew what it could potentially look like...think it would work? thanks
[quoted image]
The tube shot switch, actuator wire, works best if it is shaped in such away as to
allow to have a long wire feed into the plastic tube.
Or:
Use a MRS switch modification.
Quoted from GKW:Does anyone have a link to M & M Creations? I may have to go this route, if I can't figure out my switch error.
Did you unsolder one of the wires first, in order to test the switch strobe?
" Does this switch require a diode?"
YES!
All Bally pinball playfields and cabinets switches have diodes.
Quoted from mrm_4:Hey what’s the upper saucer supposed to do?
1. Kick out into the pops
2. Kick out and go in between the pops and roll down the playfield uninterrupted
Answer:
#1 Kick off to the side of the top center "thumper bumper..."
Quoted from mrm_4:Please tell me you got this beauty![quoted image]
Somebody with creative skills, should make "T"shirts with that image. 
Quoted from Jail_bones:but I really wanted to make this one look super spaced out.
Add 3D red/blue glasses to your game play. 
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Here’s a dumb question, what keeps the metal arch at the top under the correct tension? Is there a screw that goes through the wood rail and holds it? Mine isn’t pushing back against the posts correctly when installed.
That part takes a little finesse to get it to set right.
You kind of have to find the "sweet spot"... slide/push the rail around..
slight curve bends... etc,etc,etc.
Then do final setting as Lovef2k writes post #1880.
Quoted from Quench:Replacing what was missing/faulty caps on the pop bumpers might help exacerbate the problem since they now store energy picked up from flippers current transients.
You can try the 2.2uF 250V polyester capacitors across the EOS switch and also the 0.1uF 500V ceramic capacitor across the flipper button switch to help clamp the current transients. The capacitors will help extend the life of the switches since they reduce the arcing.
I was hoping someone would dub a second bridge for only the flippers to see whether
it isolates the frequency noise and stop random pops & kickers firing.
Quoted from Kderrick:I ran through everything and still no luck
1) put game in switch test.
1a) dos the saucer switch read? [you have to manually activate the switch]
1b) if not, then bad contacts.. bad broken wire...switch stuck closed...
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Anyone got a good way to clean out the tube? I have it removed while putting on a playfield protector and just wanted to know if you guys had any solid recommendations for cleaning out the inside. Thanks!
I have used a soft toothbrush and a little penetrating oil to help
breakup the grime then do as mrm_4 has mentioned.
Quoted from runpatboyrun:Looking for some feedback from Xenon owner.
When the ball is shot to the top of the playfield, from the shooter lane on my machine, I find it often doesn't bounce off properly from that part that I don't know the name of. It seems installed properly as there is a good enough gap between the plastic next to it and shouldn't prevent the lip from bouncing the ball off.
It might seem like a simple thing but I believe it affects that game play as the ball doesn't bounce as well as it should, preventing it from falling in the saucer.
I have tried to bend that part slightly and make sure there is enough of a gap to prevent the plastic next to it to prevent the bounce motion but it is still happening often enough to have me reach out here and ask for some tips.
It might also be that this lack of bounce IS part of the game.
Any advice/feedback is appreciated.
Thanks!
[quoted image]
Left side one-way gate assembly.
Bally ref as:
from playfield chart
item #6 pg.47 Ball Gate (left) A-1475-12
Above item is for metal arch rail M-1774
I think the metal flap may have changed composition and got the new -12 No.
From pg.70 as:
Ball Gate Assembly (right) part #A-1475-9.
[Bally really messed up on these part No. associated drawings.]
Bally Gate Assembly (left) ref from other playfields is A-1475-10.
[Again, picture drawing is wrong from part No.]
Quoted from jibmums:Speaking of the upper saucer and the X's..... I notice that when I have entered the saucer twice and thus have two X's lit, if I drain and begin the next ball, sometimes I will lose both X's and have to start over again, sometimes they will stay lit and I'll only need one more saucer to either "try a tube shot" or activate multiball if I already have one locked. Any idea why sometimes the X's stay lit, sometimes they don't?
Maybe dipswitch is fakey or 5101 ram chip cell is going bad.
Quoted from bmschiizz:switch 01 - End of tube lane.
I believe this switch is to have a signal .05 cap added to hold the strobe long enough
for the processor's 6821 PIA to read.
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Silver Spring, MD