(Topic ID: 174124)

Xenon club...Members Only~Try Xeeeenon

By Yesh23

7 years ago


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#847 3 years ago

I’ve been playing pinball my whole life (45 now) and just got my first game (Xenon) last week. I am such a noob I’m just going to hang back and try to absorb info. My machine is in working condition but no play field lights come on. I have an Alltelk Ultimate Lamp driver board on the way to see what that does, as well as new rubbers and drop targets. My goal right now is to get the game in playing condition. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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#852 3 years ago
Quoted from koji:

Congratulations!. Looks like your GI (General Illumination) is working... so I presume you mean the controlled lamps? i.e., all the lights for the playfield scoring, bonus etc?
Swapping a board in is a quick way to isolate issues, but feel free to post questions, and I'm sure there are many who can help so far as things to check. In your case for example, if there is a problem with the connector or voltage to the lamp driver, the altek will not fix it.. (It will help to isolate if the problem is on the lamp board or not), but there are other reasons that this may not be working. These shotgun pinball repairs can get costly very quickly.
I guess the first question is are you comfortable using a multimeter, checking voltages and so forth?

Thank you! Yes I’m good With a multi meter, minor electrical things, and soldering. I did a little wiggling and got the scoring lights to turn on but the GI lights went out. Pretty sure I’ll be chasing down a short now.

#853 3 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Did you check fuse F1 on your power supply board?[quoted image]

I’ve replaced all fuses I could find and have spares on hand. Thanks!

#854 3 years ago

Could it be one of the solenoids? I reset them and got everything on even the tube! Bounced the ball around by hand and they went out.

#856 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Could be old fuse clips, connectors needing re-pinning, another blown fuse.....

I’ll start there, thanks.

#862 3 years ago

Is there a list of places y’all get game parts from? Also, what is the best fuse to put here?

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#872 3 years ago

Thanks. The one currently in the game has a spring with square of solder in it. I’ve not seen one like it and was wondering if it’s a special fuse.

#876 3 years ago

Solid advice. I’m cleaning out the 40 years of grime now and won’t turn the machine on again until everything is correct.

#889 3 years ago

That makes a lot more sense!

#901 3 years ago

There appears to be a pretty janky connection on my wire harness going into the lamp driver board. Could this be a cause for the play field lights to work intermittently? Also is this connected to sound in any way? I’m currently learning how to read the prints but putting the new board in has me a bit confused. I put in the new alltek board but want everything to be correct when I turn it on. Will repin and crimp if I can find the right parts. Any help greatly appreciated.

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2 weeks later
#923 3 years ago

Taking pics of everything to tear it apart and am confused by this on the top left. I couldn’t see a purpose for it and after looking online see some machines have it and some don’t. Any reason? Thanks.

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#926 3 years ago

Thanks for the replies. I found a thread with some good sound board info here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-sound-mystery my question is: should I preemptively do all this while I’m cleaning and repairing everything? Trying to cover all bases to have a nice playable, reliable game.

#929 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You could just wait until you try it, or maybe just do the caps
I would not start unsoldering chips unless you are very experienced at board work

I’ve successfully soldered coils and diodes on my Star Trek machine but don’t want to screw up a board I can’t easily replace while learning. Is there a go to place to mail them and have them repaired?

#930 3 years ago

koji I’ll look into the lisy-35 board! Thanks

#932 3 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

The short answer is no. Get the game up and running then decide if your sound needs some work.
The guy who started that thread you referenced was pretty experienced. As a newbie, you should not be thinking about fixing things that aren't broken.
But you referenced sound a couple of times and the fact that you bought a new alltek board implies there were issues. Why don't you describe your symptoms here and we can help you out instead of you poking and praying.

I bought a working Xenon machine meaning it powers up but can not be played. Some lights power up. Sound makes a loud hum when you turn the volume knob on the coin door. My goal is to get it working and then decide if I do a full restore. And yes, total noob. Thanks for all the info everyone. You’ve got to start somewhere.

#936 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

So, the displays power up and show the high score, or does the game not boot up?
Does the playfield flash an "attract mode" pattern through the inserts, or do only a few lamps come on under the plastics?

I have replaced all fuses. I have GI lights and nothing else. I have in my possession new MPU and Solenoid driver boards I’ve not yet installed. I have already installed the LED board and re pinned the broken wire on the LED board with .100 trifurcon pin.

#939 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I always start at the power supply. The rectifier board at the bottom of the main cabinet. Known as the -54. These boards tend to have burnt traces on the bottom so visually inspect it. Replace if you see dark spots. Marco sells a replacement.
You will need a good quality VOM meter. I suggest the Fluke 117 if you need to buy one. Unplug J1 thru 4 on the -54 and check the test points. This will be a no load test. If you don't know the values you can find them on pinwiki.com in the Bally/Stern section. There's a ton of helpful info about all of the boards in the game.
I believe all of the voltages are DC except the GI voltage which is AC so adjust meter accordingly. If you get a reading that is way off or zero. Unplug game and check the fuse by ohming it out, sometimes a fuse may look good but still be bad.
Also make sure the fuses are the correct type and amperage value.
If everything checks out good with power supply, reconnect connectors there and move on to the solenoid driver. Verify voltages at test points. Again pinwiki.com has all the info you need. If solenoid driver is good move on the mpu and do the same. The power supply and solenoid driver board have a high volt section so be very careful not to touch with bare hands or short anything with your meter probes.
Disconnect the sound board power up game paying close attention to the led on mpu board. There should be a flicker first and then 7 flashes if mpu is working correctly. If not count the flashes and report back here.

Visually inspecting the bottom of the power board at the bottom of the cabinet there is a white contact fluid/paste with big blocks. Haven’t seen that before.

All fuses are correct. Board looks ok, no burned connectors . Some random jumper wires soldered on that might be old fixes?

Fuse holders look ok. Board looks pretty clean, no brown or burned out traces. Everything appears to be ok so I proceed to the solenoid driver board.

On inspection I have a burned connection and wire on the 9th pin slot labeled Transformer Ground. I re pinned it but am not happy about the molex connector having a black spot. All wires seem to be fine.

After checking everything you suggested and installing the new board I fired it up. I have all sound and functions! I ran 1 ball through it and it looks good so far. I then turned off the machine and unplugged it.

On the solenoid diagnostic LED’s the last light labeled Q19 D22 remains lit.

The Cyclone LED’s are rotating correctly and when the ball hit targets the diagnostic LED’s flashed red accordingly for a fraction of a second. What’s next? Also, thank you all so much for the generous help!

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#941 3 years ago

Should I play it a bit to see what’s working or keep going through everything? Something caused the pin to burn up on the driver board. I’d like to avoid burning up the one I just got.

#943 3 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Please be more specific as to which wire had the burned connector. Was it at the power supply or the solenoid driver? J?
Q19 is your coin lock-out coil and will remain lit while the coil is activated. No cause for alarm there. Those a known as "constant coils", same with the flipper enable.
The Alltek board should take care of any ground mods that were needed on the original board so you might be ok with that burnt connector.
If you didn't know already, Xenon is a 2 ball multi ball game so make sure there are 2 balls loaded in trough.

J3, 9th slot down marked trnsfrmr gnd on new solenoid board

#944 3 years ago

FNG Status report:
Checked power. New fuses. Replaced LED, Solenoid, and MPU boards. Have all lights and sounds.
Problems:
GI lights are off sometimes. Running balls through trying to diagnose.
Kicks out two balls sometimes.

Reading a lot of Pinside and random blog posts. Thanks for all the help!

#946 3 years ago

I have a few light sockets that tested bad, on order. Pop bumper is causing tilt. Currently looking into that, if anyone has info. Also searching for part numbers. Things are coming along nicely and I’m excited to have a nice Xenon. I used to play this game all the time in a bar my parents frequented in the late 80’s Tempe Arizona.

#948 3 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Probably bad diode
Go into switch test and find out if it's the slam tilt, or reg tilt

I pushed the red test button twice. It freaked out on one of the pop bumpers and kept tripping it. At least 5 times before I stopped it. Reset by turning power off and started again. No strange lights on the new boards. All play field lights went out. Restarted and tried again. Did same thing.

-2
#950 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

If you haven’t already start snipping capacitors in that matrix, change the diodes on the coils and switches, and start looking for solder splashes or loose wires or parts making a ground.

Ok. Whatever the fuck that means.

#951 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

If you haven’t already start snipping capacitors in that matrix, change the diodes on the coils and switches, and start looking for solder splashes or loose wires or parts making a ground.

I checked the diodes on all the bumpers. All around 10.4. I’m not opposed to putting in new coils and diodes but I looked it up online and don’t want to order the wrong parts.

#953 3 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Check the diodes on your tilt switches. Inside the cabinet on the left . This picture is from my paragon but it shows where you should be looking for the tilt switches. There is also a slam tilt switch is on the coin door. You will likely need to replace one of these diodes on your tilt switches.
[quoted image]

Thank you! I will do this sometime this week. If it helps at all the last thing I did was replace all 44/47 bulbs with LED’s. Some of the bus wire was hard to work with and I had to remove and replace some of the staple. I was careful to replace them and put them back where they were.

#955 3 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

The matrix is basically where the wire goes, all the things connected to it.
For example the tilt is on this matrix with the tilt, #2 drop target, right flipper feed lane, and the right pop bumper.
[quoted image]
They all share the Brown and White wire because of the number 65.
[quoted image]
The other side of the matrix is the other wire. So all the pop bumpers, the slings and the saucers share the yellow and red wire. Because it’s number 31.
[quoted image]
This little icon means a capacitor is supposed to be on the switch.
[quoted image]
This is a capacitor, if you have the original ones on there. Snip them and replace them later. If they are bad they make the game act haunted.
[quoted image]
You have xenon and Star Trek. You should order about 1000 of these diodes.
[quoted image]
And this is a solder splash. If this lands on a mech, a coil, a switch, etc it’ll make your game do crazy stuff.[quoted image]
And when that landed on my hand it reminded me of this:

Thank you for taking the time to explain it to me. Luckily Star Trek is playing fine while I work on Xenon. Helps me blow off steam and bide my time while I wait for parts in the mail.

#957 3 years ago

I have a ton of diodes on order. Here are some pics. Most coils and switches have a diode and a capacitor on them. Is this a hack job? If I have to correctly solder everything my next post will be a rotisserie and I might as well get the new hardtop. Thank you everyone for the answers and information.

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#968 3 years ago

Not specific to Xenon but what would cause the digits to keep changing? Happens on all 4 displays.

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#970 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Is the game's high voltage stable?
Bally games need at least +165 voltage to light up.

Voltage is good. The numbers change in different places(for example it will display 365,000 change to 264,000 and back again). I started a game and scored a few points (1,560 change to 1,460 and back). It didn’t happen prior to changing to LED’s. Any advice greatly appreciated.

#989 3 years ago
Quoted from koji:

Curious what the club members think here... seeing this ebay post made me think how underrated Xenon is for me.
I've owned mine for over a year now, and in that year have played it enough to dial it in how I like it. My machine is a rough players PF.... but it works and looks good from far as they say
For me, arguably, no.1 Art package of the classic SS era. Also, my favourite sound package of the classic SS era.
Gameplay is where xenon I believe gets a bit of unfair flack. When I first acquired the game, I agreed with the published reviews about a lack of mechs etc., or what people would call scoring exploits... or do this all day long etc.
I am not sure how the setup is of those players, but on mine the shots are very tight, and like all pins many are adjustable.
My spinner shot is tight.. You can still backhand or forhand it, but unless your shot is true, you will miss and hit the post that partially blocks the shot (I know mine does its job as it is bent lol.). multiball is a challenge here because of this.
The tube shot is always going to be fairly open.. but obviously there is some set up to make sure this is never going to get a ball stuck, and a slow but true roller should be able to creep up the ramp and through the switch door. (Much to xenon's relief!).
The MOTA collect here is fine, but I've read that people say shoot this all day long to win.. Not on mine, after reviewing the documentation, the design is for this kick out to hit the right sling on the way out. This SHOULD_ make it a fairly dangerous shot.. not a scoring strategy IMO. I think as mine was originally, when people set a heavy angle on the machine, this will in turn return the ball to the right flipper.. not how it is designed, this must kick to the right sling, and if you put it at a steeper angle, you'll need to adjust this kickout accordingly.
Xenon strategy has to be to achieve multiball and then go for the lit spinner. when you have a bonus, if you didn't hit it by luck, and are not getting the top rollovers, maybe think about shooting the drop and maxing out your 4x.
I would not say it is the best of the classic SS era here.. but the gameplay really is solid, and it has never got old for me, even as I approach what I'd guess to be well over 500 plays... it's a fast and mean game... just curious to me how it does not seem as coveted as some other classic SS.

There’s no doubt it’s a beautiful work of art. The game play holds up for me as it’s easy enough for anyone to play and difficult enough to keep experienced players (myself anyway) entertained.

#991 3 years ago

How do YOU think Pin Stadium lights would look on Xenon? Overkill? I put LED’s throughout and it’s still dark near the apron and the ball lock.

#1002 3 years ago

Is there a trick to fixing this? Other than being severely warped like homies codpiece, it’s in good shape.

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#1012 3 years ago

I always thought Mota was just Atom backwards with no deeper meaning needed.

#1021 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

As promised a quick video.
With a larger piece, 2 pieces of glass would have to be used or a larger book

Sweet, thank you. Do those plastic protector jammies people put underneath help from warping?

3 months later
#1078 2 years ago

In switch self test I get number 21 flashing #4 drop target. On the inside of the drop target assembly there is a braided wire running from drop target 1 to 3 and there seems to be a piece missing to number four. Should there be a piece connecting it and if so what type of wire is it?

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#1081 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

You are showing us coils but you are doing a switch test? What prompted you to do a switch test? From the pic, it looks like the braid ends at the 4th coil. Have you ran the coil test, if so, do all coils fire?
If a switch shows closed during switch test, especially a DT that is in the reset position, usually indicates a shorted diode on that switch or a physical issue making the switch short. Also the switched on the rear of the DT bank are vulnerable since they face outward and often get thrown out of adjustment by the PF prop rod hitting them by accident.

New pinball owner trying to get this Xenon going. Thanks

#1084 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Does anyone know where I could possibly source 2 original tube clamps? Or a possible decent looking replacement? I picked up a Xenon a few months ago and am slowly but surely de-hacking it. The tube was hot glued in place and looked terrible. I cleaned it all off and now have a nicer looking black Velcro system temporarily. Any help would be appreciated!

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7655-24

1 month later
#1116 2 years ago

Is this prototype real? Anybody know the story behind this XRated Nipple playfield? ebay.com link: itm

#1119 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

After looking at his other playfields for sale, this could be a cpr. They didn't have the hologram on their pfs back then but I vaguely remember them offering the nipple version for sale. Roughly 2009ish.

That makes sense. I’ve been looking for a CPR because I’ve been restoring my machine and the playfield is warped pretty severely. If anyone has one please hit me up. I’d gladly take a non-nipple version for half the price!

1 month later
#1195 2 years ago

After hanging back and reading a few hundred articles and blog posts I have a totally playable Xenon. Still dialing in the switches and adjusting bands but it’s working good so far. I might have some stupid questions (I’ll try to research as much as possible before asking) Thank you, all of you! Extra thanks mrm_4 and vid1900. Patient people sharing knowledge. Pinside has a great community. Light test!

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#1199 2 years ago

Two things need addressed after a few days of playing. 1)The mini post next to the tube entrance is missing and 2)the Spinner hangs up occasionally and doesn’t score points. I’ve adjusted the spinner a few times to score and spin freely but the wire catches on the side as the little white washers hang up. Any help on what to do and what is the correct post for the tube shot would be great.

#1201 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Can you post pic of spinner? It sounds like something could be bent or misaligned.
I have tons of mini posts if you need one but you have to see if the threads or hole is blown out.

Thanks! When I shopped the machine I replaced every cap and diode and re pinned all the connections. I haven’t done anything to the top yet.

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#1207 2 years ago

New altek board and LED lights in the back box and GI have been working fine. Whenever I try to put the LED’s under the playfield the 20A fuse blows. Put 47 bulbs back in and all is fine. Switch back to LED’s and fuse pops again.

#1209 2 years ago

Spinner is working like a charm after the advice. Still looking for a solution to the missing post. Game is playing fine with the 47 incandescent bulbs. Need to check all the LED’s to find the problem before reinstalling. I have new light bulb bayonets on the way. This will probably be a full restoration when I’m done.

#1218 2 years ago

A friend from the UK just told me they had a record store day exclusive Xenon 7” on pop bumper blue translucent vinyl. apparently this was released June 2021. He is sending me a copy but it looks like it is still available on the Finders Keepers Bandcamp page.

https://finderskeepersrecords.bandcamp.com/album/xenon

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1 week later
#1249 2 years ago

Enjoying playing Xenon daily. Still dialing it in and making adjustments.

Sometimes the ball in play hits the gate and the locked ball falls out onto the playfield. What do I adjust?

#1250 2 years ago

Received this also:

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#1253 2 years ago

Yes, that’s exactly what it’s doing. No video as it doesn’t happen all the time but when it does it’s frustrating. I’ll check to see how the ball sits in there and compare it to the top kick out hole.

Quoted from chas10e:

You're saying when the 2'nd ball on playfield hits the cattle-gate, the locked ball will lip-out of the saucer ?

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I wonder if the two fins in the saucer are to close together so it cradles the ball to high -or- to much tension on the leaf switch
got a pic of that area or a video of it happening ?

#1256 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Did you play the record yet? I'm curious as to what is on it...

I did play it. A lot of unused sounds. I think you can listen to the entire record on bandcamp.

#1258 2 years ago

If anyone has a CPR playfield for sale, or a good lead please let me know. I’ve got the machine playing really good and think I’ll do a full restore this winter. Thanks for all the help.

#1260 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Just talked to CPR via email inquiring about Xenon playfields. This was the response
“ we have 200 playfields ready for clear coat right now so we are backed
up are clear coat guy.
xenon is being cut on the cnc machine now we should have it ready in 3/4
months time.
i can add you to a reminder list to let you know when they are back in
stock if you want.”

Thank you for the info!

#1261 2 years ago
Quoted from dscapo:

Just talked to CPR via email inquiring about Xenon playfields. This was the response
“ we have 200 playfields ready for clear coat right now so we are backed
up are clear coat guy.
xenon is being cut on the cnc machine now we should have it ready in 3/4
months time.
i can add you to a reminder list to let you know when they are back in
stock if you want.”

I’m on the list! Response: “we are working on the wood work now for them but its going to be 6 ish months till we see them back”

2 weeks later
#1289 2 years ago

This wire broke on the tube shot switch. Does anyone have a clear pic of the switch with the cover off and know the gauge of wire?

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#1291 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

You need this but will have to bend it to make it work. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-2112

Thank you!

1 month later
#1369 2 years ago

This switch is one finicky mofo. Any tips or tricks appreciated. I’ve been adjusting it for weeks. I replaced it with a new wire. Before, weak tube shots push back ok but fast ones would blast past the switch and wouldn’t activate. Now slow shots get trapped after the switch. I’ve been adjusting it and leveling the machine. Frustrating. Thanks all.

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#1372 2 years ago

That would be sweet. I basically know nothing/still learning but for what it’s worth I replaced my speakers with what was in when I bought it and wired the same. Sometimes I lose sound after the ball drains and the score is adding. I think it’s a switch problem. New on top.

Quoted from mrm_4:I was adjusting mine the other day wondering if there is a way to fit an opto there. That would be a sweet fix/mod

F12F5D8A-08A1-4129-8E00-3B8E67894869 (resized).jpegF12F5D8A-08A1-4129-8E00-3B8E67894869 (resized).jpeg
#1375 2 years ago

Thanks Zablon I’LL give that a shot.

#1382 2 years ago

Sonic Ramp and switch covers are stainless/magnetic. O.D. On new tube from Marco is 1.5

30F4B495-82D5-40B4-B4C7-52427C3B36DE (resized).jpeg30F4B495-82D5-40B4-B4C7-52427C3B36DE (resized).jpeg
#1383 2 years ago

Sonic Ramp and covers are stainless/magnetic. Is O.D. Outside diameter or optical density?

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#1385 2 years ago

All three ARE magnetic. Ramp, L’s, and switch covers.

1 week later
#1399 2 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I’ll be tinkering with this after work![quoted image]

My package was delayed. Hopefully get it tomorrow. Let us know where you put it.

#1402 2 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

F'n great!!! Love it when a plan comes together....
Matt & Dan
M&M Creations

I got my switch today and am stoked it works so well, also nice you used my pic on the handout. Thanks all.

2 months later
#1441 2 years ago

I’m ready to take the next step and do a PF swap with this beautiful CPR gold I got from the awesome @alienpoker. I’ve shopped 3 machines successfully in the last 2 years but this will be my biggest undertaking. I’m also painting the cab. Wish me luck!

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#1443 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Xenon was my first swap and repaint. In fact I swapped 2 xenons. Before you touch anything, take pics and when you think you took enough take a thousand more.
I buy multi packs of cheap SD cards and dedicate each one to a particular machine and then keep them for future reference and Before and after pics.

Thanks, will do. I’ve poured over the PF swap threads several times and know I’ll make some mistakes but I’ll enjoy the learning experience.

#1445 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yes we learn by mistakes but the ultimate mistake would be running a screw or drill bit through the top side. Take every precaution to make sure that doesn't happen. I have done 11 swaps so hit me up if you have any questions.

Much appreciated.

1 week later
#1458 2 years ago

Finishing up my lighting choices before the big tear down. I like these spot lights for the upper PF. I need some suggestions to light up the apron/flipper/sling area.

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2 weeks later
#1463 2 years ago
Quoted from DaveB8:

Wow...I bought one of the last remaining 'gold' playfields from CPR a couple of years ago...looking at all of this has me amped up to start a swap...
[quoted image]

Sweet, I’m putting in a gold too. Currently tumbling and cleaning parts and sourcing new stuff.

#1476 2 years ago
Quoted from tomdrum:

On IPDB they show an experimental overlay with the arrows. However my PF is not an overlay. It was a silk screened PF that was NOS.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2821&picno=44331

No arrows on the flyer either.

2 months later
#1668 1 year ago

I’ll take one if you print more

Quoted from caseydanger:Hey fellow Xenon-lovers! A while ago, play_pinball asked me to work up something to replace the Bally coin-door decal on Xenon. A century later I finally drew up something and ordered a few samples from Sticker Mule on their "holographic" stock (pics attached). I wanted to gauge interest on here to see if I should get a larger quantity printed.
I did my best to design them in a way that they integrated with the cabinet, but also work well as a standalone sticker. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

3 months later
#1805 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

That was the issue! Thanks again for the assistance

I prefer the music off with just the sounds playing. Considering getting one of these:

https://geeteoh.com/geeteoh/soundsplus.shtml

3 weeks later
#1847 1 year ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Ordered a nifty skate stand and got my topper in place.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I’ve disliked every Xenon topper I’ve seen but this is awesome. I was a skater in high school and quit in my 20’s. I might try to make one of these decks when I stencil my cab. Awesome idea.

4 months later
#1973 1 year ago

Need help with something simple. I believe this has been discussed but couldn’t find it.

Game starts everything plays fine (for a year now) but recently when ball drops in side saucer (4 tube shot) it does not eject. Eject works when in test mode. Thanks all.

UPDATE: found this, trying now https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-side-saucer-eject-problem

#1974 1 year ago

I ran through everything and still no luck

#1978 1 year ago

Thanks all. After cleaning and adjusting in the machine I said to myself “self, let’s do this the right way.” I removed both switches, cleaned and replaced resistors and everything’s working like a charm.

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1 month later
#2000 1 year ago
Quoted from runpatboyrun:

Hey guys, I’m looking at customizing the rule set of Xenon. While I’m preparing to code it, I’m thinking that having the sounds of the games would be super handy.
Is there a resource online where someone would have documented these sounds and made them available? Or is there another way to find the original files and access them from the sound board?
Thanks!

Suzanne Ciani’s Xenon soundtrack has been released digitally and on vinyl from Finders Keepers records and can be found here: https://finderskeepersrecords.bandcamp.com/album/xenon

3 months later
#2067 9 months ago

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4 weeks later
#2087 8 months ago

I’ve been messing with lighting options for far too long. I need to light up the flippers but I’m pretty happy with this

IMG_1557 (resized).pngIMG_1557 (resized).png
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