So how do you join? I was given a Xenon, that had several issues and a pretty bad PF. I've worked out most of the issues, it playable now.

Here's the manual, go to the last pages you can find all the cards and their TP voltages in the schematics.

1979Xenon_Manual.pdf

I was given a complete Xenon for free, it had several issues, no sound, all solenoids worked intermittently and the playfield is in really bad shape tube lights were gone, but the light strip was still there.
-Got the solenoid issue fixed, loose pin on sol driver board, fixed for now, but going to replace with molex connector.
-Sound card had some bad diodes, working now,
-Coin door on the machine was replaced and no remote volume or bracket on the door made a bracket and added a pot added wired to the connector pins.
-Did the LED upgrade to the shot tube light strip.
-Replaced all the rubbers.
-Flippers are in pretty good shape, the left has about a 1/16" of play, but both move freely and are pretty tight at full extension, very little shaft wobble.

So now I have a working machine for about $100, pretty much. There are several lights, three on the left side behind the shot tube and kicker, white/green, and green/yellow and the 2X and 4X, the amber shoot again in the center of the Xenon light circle. None have power to the sockets, haven't had much time to look into this, but did look at the schematics briefly and couldn't find them, I'll look more in depth when I have time, any ideas?

I have sent an email to get me on the list with CPR for a playfield, still fairly new to pinball repair so I'll see how that goes.

Below is the playfield mess.

IMG_1321 (resized).jpg

Yea, I didn't notice that until I posted the picture, I knew someone would bring that up.

Actually small holes by each flipper tip, not behind the flipper like on my Williams machine.

So, like I said, there are several light with no power to them, I looked at the lamp driver schematic, not sure what they would call these lamps, look to be lights that would stay on all the time again the three are behind the tub exit and kicker, the two white 2X and 4X you can see in my PF picture and the amber shoot again, the last three might be on the switch matrix but the side lamps I don't think they'd be on the matrix. Tried to tone them out with my telecom fox and hound, but to much interference, can't hear the tone. Any ideas where I should look, like I said pretty new to pinball maintenance, my electrical knowledge is just enough to get me into trouble, I can read schematics, and I'm a good mechanic with good PD skills, but this is still new to me.

Well I should have spent more time, found the Shoot again, 2X, and 4X, need to go check on the machine. Still not sure about the gen ill lamps near the shot tube kicker area.

Thanks, I had this but forgot I had pulled this off one of your other post. I was just looking at the manual. I'll have to take a look, see what I can find. I'll struggle for a while, but with the great info you guys offer on this site I'll get better. I've had and still have other pinball machines, but they were in great shape and I only had to do minimal work. Thanks again Vid!

Yea, I have the manual, and a matrix sheet. I found the 2X, 4X and Shoot Again last night, but wasn't sure what the bulbs on the side, by the end of the shot tube would be called, other than gen ill, vid, gave me some input. The one set is wht/grn the other was grn/yel, so I'll check those out also. would be called. Thanks, I'll have time next week to do some testing and see if I can figure it out. I know they are bad sockets, I checked for voltage there, nothing.

Ok, nob needs help! I have several lamps to fix, they are on different decoders, so I'll take one as an example. Same Shooter insert on playfield. On the LDC it comes in on J3-22, Q40, says blu/yel, looks black to me, wire 23. Anyway I shorted pin J3-22 to ground and the lamp comes on. I can't get a lead on Q40 to test voltage, can I go to pin 14, or 13 if you start from 0 and take a reading before it goes into the decoder then to I/23 on the left after the decoder IC?
Sorry about the image below, was trying to add a small clip of the schematic and once I loaded the image, I couldn't find a way to remove.

LDB (resized).png

I wrote down the wrong info, the Bally Controlled Lamp Chart shows the Same Player Shoot Again (Playfield) as Q40,A5J3-22, Code-23, Blu-Yel
MCR-106. I shorted it out on J3 and the Same Shooter light came on. I have voltage to Q40, but was wondering how to test past this point, I don't have a logic probe. Let me try to attach the image again.

Same Player Shoot Again (resized).jpg

Ok, I didn't short out Q40, but I tested for voltage and it's there. I'll try shorting it out, probably light up like it did from the pin on J3, but on these SCR's with the tab on top, MCR-106-1, I can't see the legs, on the 2N5060 I can see the legs and the C, A, and G. I'll check it out tomorrow, I have to head out, thanks.

Ok, thanks, will do, like I said I'm new to pinball repair, reading learning as I go! Haven't had time to check anything else, hope to spend some time on it this weekend, thanks again for the help!

This is on the ALD-A9, so that would be TP1 instead of TP3 correct? I've got some time today and tomorrow, going to start tracking this down.

I hadn't messed with the lamp boards until now, I was working on larger issues. Should have done a TP test on all cards when I first started working on the machine, but lamps were a small issue then, anyway I testes TP1 and TP2 before i did anything. TP1 as at 5.3VDC, but TP2, which should be ground was at 3.9VDC. I checked J1 pins 13,14 and 15, had 4.1 VDC volts went to J3 pins 19 and 20 even though they show as not used and 4.1 VDC.
I pulled all the connectors on J1,2 and 3, and put them back on one at a time, the voltage came back on TP2 with each connector.
So I haven't gone any further with the individual lamp testing at this point.
Am I misreading this?

Ok, I think I got a little carried away with working on this machine. I got it and resolved the no sound and the intermittent loss of all solenoids, but because it was partially working when I got it I didn't start from where I should have. With the weird voltage on TP2 Aux Lamp board,a slight humming coming from the speakers when in lamp test and a few other little things, I'm going back and start from the beginning, testing and bullet proofing/repairing each board and replacing connectors and pins, starting with the power supply then the Sol/Rectifier board and so on. All boards look to be in pretty good condition, is there any boards that I should just replace, Alltec or Rottendog? Like I said I only have $100 in it so far, don't want to just swap thing out, but for long term reliability and testing, I could replace if it really a better way to go.

True, I was just wondering peoples thoughts any boards that are finicky and might be better off replacing. Thanks for the link, I saw this when I first got on this site and was going to find it to reference as I go, I also have the URL for the Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games from 1977 to 1985 document, tons of good stuff there also. I should have done this from the start, but this is the first machine I ever had to do anything to besides replace rubbers and lamps.

The MPU still had a battery on it when I got it, took it off, installed NVRAM. Front of the board looks pretty good, but if the back is really damaged I might think about upgrading it. Not sure what's going on with the aux lamp driver, have 3.9 VDC on TP2, tried to isolate it by taking all the connectors off the board and installing them one at a time and checking, but it comes back no mater which connector I plug in and with all them off, I loose the hum from the speakers. So I'll have to really check that one and it's connections, but for now I'm going to work on the power supply/board, get a kit and replace all the diodes, bridge rectifiers, but I want something bigger than the IN4007 diode's in the kit. I was reading somewhere that the connectors on the power board really get corroded/tarnished, Big Daddy has a connector kit for the power board, wonder if this would be a good idea to get it and change both sides?

Wow, your PF damage was worse then mine! I'm thing of replacing the playfield, on the list for the next run, fingers crossed.

IMG_1321 (resized).jpg

Does, the flipper move freely with game off, not rubbing on playfield, coil sleeve, not binding?