I would use Pimp's stencils, but the cost would be the same as my Xenon!(and that it out of my budget for now). I bought $20 worth of Oramask 810 stencil film to try it out and cut it on my works machine. It works fine, though I think I got the order wrong, it is not red first! I tried a part of the design on a piece of scrap wood, you can see I rushed it!

IMG_20190922_161908633 (resized).jpg

Yes the blue is first lol. That's a cool design. I guess you're going custom on the artwork?

Hi Gang - newcomer here!

Xenon was my favorite game in college, and I always said if I got a pin, it would be a Xenon. A few months ago my hubby surprised me with a beautiful Xenon!

Having never owned a pinball machine before, I have been reading a ton about care and maintenance. My machine was in great shape, but after a few weeks I decided it needed some cleaning. I removed the Mylar (which had a big hunk missing), and gave the playfield 3 coats of wax. I replaced all the rubber, all the coil sleeves, and some of the posts. I built a rotisserie, so I could more easily replace the skirts on the pop bumpers (the rest of the parts were in good shape). I am learning how to solder!

I am having a blast playing this old gem, and have enjoyed reading about everyone else's Xenon experiences.

xenon1 (resized).jpg

xenon2 (resized).jpg

xenon3 (resized).jpg

That playfield is in great shape! So many of these Xenons were worn down to the wood.

AnnKH
Note: you need a mini post assembly in front of the left spinner...
The top left mini post behind the spinner next to the tube does not
have a mini post rubber put on it.
Please put a ring on the lower right posts...
Your playfield is so mint...
Your game looks awesome!
Congratulations.

Mini posts for Xenon.
https://www.absolutepinball.com/shop/metal-post-mini-rebound-protector-10-32-data-east-sega-stern-williams-bally-gottlieb/
or
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5005-01

Thanks, Vec-tor! I'll take care of that. I put everything back together the way I found it - apparently not the way it was supposed to be.

Two fold question.
Are the tubes on Cybernaut the same as Xenon..?
If so where do get these replacements....?
Thanks

Where can replacement tubes be had.????
I need one for cybernaut..

Take your tube to a plastic supply shop. I believe the tubes are made out of acrylic.

Second the supply shop comment. It is a standard industry tube size.

Anybody ever make a plastic for this spot?

Missing Plastic (resized).jpg

Their was a plastic piece that was for the top right... The piece was never used in production.
The part was hidden buy the metal ramp assembly. One can find the missing plastic on IPDB.
The area that you have pointed out, has the white plastic clap filling in that spot.

Found this on IPDB as well and there it is.
The Plastic Light Shield set.
Well now I need one...

image-16 (resized).jpg

A plastic supply shop..? That's a very vague answer. You know why I didn't think of that..? Because I never heard of one.
If you know of one then maybe I could order one....

Plastic Supply Inc., of Maine
2 Karen Drive, Stop 4Westbrook, Maine 04092
(207)775-7778
(800)287-7835
(207)775-6044 FAX
Maine’s Original Source for all your CNC Routing, Fabrication, Welding, Sign Supplies and Engineering Plastics
Contact Us Today for a Quote
www.plasticsupplyofmaine.com
[email protected]
-----------------------------------
Try these guys... They could probably help you.

How about McMaster-Carr?

Just replaced the volume and voice pots on my Xenon last night, all is well in the world.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/bourns/3362p-1-102lf/?qs=RwDwYDcw27qKqzC%2FPPozyg%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Used these from Mouser. Part number 3362P-1-102LF

I picked up a Xenon a little while ago and was able to add credits to the machine and play it but now, I am not able to add any credits so i can play and i can not figure out what I am doing wrong. Any suggestions for what could be wrong and preventing me from adding credits to the game to play? I am assuming (and hoping) it is a loose wire and will be an easy fix but I do not know for sure.

We probably need a bit more detail to sort this out. Do you have credits showing on the display and the game won't start or are you at 0 credits and cannot add any? How did you add credits previously? If operating the coin switches on the door does not work then I would do a switch test in the diagnostics. Keep in mind the coin switch, start switch, and the diagnostics switch are all on the coin door and if the coin door connector is the problem, all these switches will not be working.

There is a maximum credit setting. It caps out at 40.

pasted_image (resized).png

Hello everyone,

This is my first post on the forum so i hope i post this in the correct thread. At our office we've got an Xenon. But we're having a few issues with it and i hope you guys could help us perhaps.

1st issue is that the ball sometimes exits the tubeshot without it being launched from the dropshot.
2nd issue sometimes our ball drops dead near the right flipper, in the right banks or in the top right corner. Could this have to do with the angle of the playing field.
Currently we got the field at 3,2 degrees. Is this a normal angle or should it be more?

Looking forward to your answers, thanks in advance!

6.5 is more typical.

If I understand the questions, I believe I've addressed these issues on my repair page at...

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/xenon/repair/repair.html

An extra ring above the Exit Chamber slows the ball so it doesn't skip the saucer...

posts-03 (resized).jpg

Blue posts and double rings prevent hang ups at the drops...

shop-21 (resized).jpg

My playfield slope is adjusted pretty shallow and nothing gets stuck.

Thanks, we'll try that and see how it plays. thanks for the answer.

On a side note i think the angle maybe to steep for the power the flipper has. It's already hard to get the ball in the upperpart of the machine as it is. But the again i can imagine the ball picking up more speed on an steeper angle. so i said we'll try it.

Thanks for the answer, it's the answer we've been looking for. so we'll definently be checking out that one.

So to clarify

These are the spot the ball gets stuck or drops dead quite regularly.
And a picture of the dropshot. As you can see we're missing a thick rubber there.
Also noticed the rubber showing cracks on multiple places, so i'll think i have to convice my boss to change them.
IMG_20191112_131732 (resized).jpgIMG_20191112_131646 (resized).jpgIMG_20191112_131654 (resized).jpgIMG_20191112_131721 (resized).jpg

Get that rubber replaced and raise the rear leg levelers so you are at 6.5 degrees back to front. That should eliminate the areas you show the ball getting hung up.

Hold your level to the bottom of the cabinet. If it's level there the game is configured as intended.

I'll have to remember that one.

The top picture...
there is supposed to be a pin in that spot to keep the ball from getting stuck.

Thanks guys for all the advise.

So far we've leveled out the playingfield by making the bottomplate of the cabinet completly level. First we used an app on our phone which improved the situation but we weren't satisfied with the results so we went with an real leveler. The improvement was noticable straight away and also resolved the ball getting stuck issue. It was a bit hard to screw the rear legs out but nothing a good amount of wd40 couldn't fix. Also i've cleaned the playing field with a very slight wet cloth. there was quite a layer of greyish dust and material of the balls. I didn't expect it would make that much of a difference but it really did. the ball runs much smoother and faster. When cleaning i noticed that the rubber in some places was in poor condition as well as quite some lightbulbs being broken.

So basically I got two questions:
Which rubberset do I need?
Which bulbs do i need? are they all the same type?

I don't know what suppliers you have in Europe but you can buy rubber ring kits specific to the machine and maybe add one larger one for the post in the tube shot capture area. Bulbs are all 44 or 47, you can use either one but most owners have switched to 47s as they use less power, generate less heat but are slightly dimmer than the 44s.

A few people on here and myself wire one or both of the controlled lamps near the ball exit into the GI to light that area. They are rarely used as controlled lamps and the playfield is a bit brighter.

bobukcat chas10e QuietEarp Thanks for your answers guys.

Yesterday the leftflipper died on us. We decided not to screw with all of it ourselfs after we lifted the playingfield. Luckily we have a contact for maintenance and he'll do it for us. Hopefully i can learn some things looking how he does it. It all seems a bit initmidating to me with 0 knowledge of these things.

I had a Xenon...sold it 8 years ago. I have another one now.

Does anyone have a source on where to buy the tube with the laser etching?

I bought one when I first saw it a few years back but I never used it. Compared to the original, the size of the etched tube was a smaller diameter and I was afraid the small might hit the edges of the tube opening. I still may have. I will check.

Not sure if you ever figured this out but check the fish paper insulator on the game start switch contacts, it has a tendency to shift and short out the switch. It will let the game boot but no credits are added and no game starts.

Time for some Xenon maintenance!

All new posts and elastics, serviced the flipper mechs, fresh wax and replaced some missing caps on various switches. The plunge is an actual skill shot now that the switches up top for the drops are working proper, I can get 3 at a go now =)

20191129_211112_resized_1 (resized).jpg

?Anyone know where this particular clear plastic piece from Playfield Protectors goes? It doesn't seem to match anything that I recognize and I'm sure I'm missing something obvious. https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/H_lH2OZcRkavFmeZnJIVEg?categoryid=24&category=Clear%20Plastics&name=Xenon%20%7C%201980

It either mounts on top of rectifier board in lower cab or in front oF solenoid board in back box... compare screw holes

Nope; I still have both of those in mine and it doesn't match/line up with either. In any case, they are selling it as a Xenon-specific part, not a Bally/Stern solenoid board generic or -54 power module shield.

Incidentally, if anyone wants to buy either one of those parts:
Bally/Stern Solenoid Board HV shield: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/M-1837
Bally -54 Power Module HV Shield: https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-power-module-fuse-covershield-kit.html

It goes under the apron on the right side above the ball switch/release trough area - see here:

https://images.pinside.com/f/53/77/f53773109aa44c38fb98a560e00dad59afd1169e.jpg

That's interesting. I looked long and hard at that part and couldn't figure out what it was for. My game has a completely different metal shield over the trough. But it looks like the playfields were dimpled for either option. I'm curious to hear what others have in their games.

I've seen a metal cover too - this one is a different metal variation to what I've seen:

https://images.pinside.com/e/1d/97/e1d976f4171d504b3d465e2ac6e73d4cd3169748.jpg

Never have seen either type.

I think my Xenon has the metal type, I was just cleaning switches on mine last week and I don't recall a clear cover.

By accident, abuse or transit there must have been scenarios where the ball could potentially pop out of the trough.
Two Xenons I worked on last year had the plastic cover, another had a metal cover.

I'm going to assume that the plastic cover is for the early production and
the metal cover is for later. The metal cover is faster to install on an assembly
line than the plastic style cover. Or they ran two separate lines from different
suppliers. A collection of serial numbers could add insightfulness to the variations to the two
outhole trough design.