Maybe, but you can't clean an old one. The carbon and metal flakes are embedded into the nylon.

Buy a bag of them (50 for $15), cause almost every coil uses that same sleeve

Wipe the plunger off with alcohol so you don't contaminate the new sleeve

I don't know about everyone else, but you get completely screwed on shipping unless you have a big order all at once. That .50 piece turns into $10 because it's the only thing you need.

Definitely a challenge for anything ordered versus being able to buy locally but some vendors are definitely worse than others. It is one of the reasons I use Pinball Resource so much.

If he needs one I have plenty.

Just 5 minutes of labor to go pick your part, put it in an envelope and print a label would cost more than .50 cents.

I miss mine too, it was mylared but way back then there wasn't an internet so I didn't trust trying to remove it without possibly screwing things up.

What was the problem causing the weak flipper?

So an update, I took the coil mech apart for ball trough. I simply cleaned the plunger and the coil sleeve (yes I don't feel like ordering one and paying shipping cost, at least at this time. I recently ordered $250 worth of items from Pinball Life and Marco...when I build a significant list up again to justify shipping cost it will be on the list). I also replaced coil stop. It works perfectly now. If the problem returns I will modify to raise the ball guide up higher to decrease angle.

I still haven't completely nailed this one down yet. I replaced EOS, have yet to rebuild. My inexperience led me to purchase just a nylon bushing, coil stop, and sleeve. Wish I would've done a rebuild kit. I also replaced the cabinet flipper switches, which significantly helped, as the are a lot tighter now. Down the road I will do the flipper modification to Fliptronic

Here are few pics of the restoration. Overlay turned out pretty good. A fun machine and classic, will be a keeper.

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Wow, your PF damage was worse then mine! I'm thing of replacing the playfield, on the list for the next run, fingers crossed.

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Worth every penny.

Hi all. I have an issue with my right hand side targets where they get stuck up high. I tightened checked and clean the mech underneath but any advice appreciated.

Replacing that cap seems to have done the trick!

Does, the flipper move freely with game off, not rubbing on playfield, coil sleeve, not binding?

Did they used to work for you?

Did this happen after a playfield swap or new rubbers?

They were working ok.
The long bracket on the target bank came loose and I retightened. Only one now getting stuck. I will try and get some pics.
Thanks for the replies so far.

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On a plus got to fit my custom coin inserts as well!

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-properly-ask-for-pinball-repair-help-vids-guide

Well I was able to verify that the game will play...so the tear down begins. Definitely needs some attention.

I'll keep you posted. I will have a couple of project playfields for sale if anyone is interested

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timab2000 do you have the backglass?

Yes I do it's not in the best shape would like to find a nicer one

Anybody have any playfield and backglass scans to share? Thanks!

Made some progress on my game in the past couple of days. Cleaned the bottom of cabinet, repaired the bad and busted area in the back cabinet fiberboard or whatever they call it.

Cleaned up the coin box plate and replace some of the wood for that, and cleaned up the transformer/rectifier plate. Looks better than it did. I'll post more as I get to it.

Tim

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Decided to start a new post on the makeover of my Xenon, rather than clog this one up. If you are interested here is the link:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-gets-a-makeover-on-a-budget-hopefully

Thanks Tim

Does anyone know where I might find a reproduction power supply warning decal you know, the yellow sticker that goes on the power supply board believe it has red lettering. Thanks in advance

Following on from my initial post, here's a vid of the scoring from pop bumper hits. I haven't been able to spend any time on it yet as its at a friends house not local to me. In the video you can see me activate the 4 pop bumpers, the first one scores 800 every time, 2nd and 3rd score 100 each correctly, and the 4th scores anything from 100 to over 1000. I'm pretty sure no other switches are being activated by vibration. I notice each switch has a diode and a capacitor on so I'm thinking ( hoping! ) they are causing the problem and it'll be as easy as replacing those. Anyone seen anything like this before?

The 4th pop bumper is scoring 800 points in the video like the first pop bumper.

A clue is that the two yellow standup targets on the left side each score 700 points so that's probably where the extra score is coming from. You'll need to work out if it's a vibration issue or switch matrix issue. First off, put a piece of paper between the contacts on both of those yellow target switch contacts to stop them activating and see what happens to the pop bumper scores.

The pop bumpers and those yellow targets all have capacitors on them, make sure none of the caps has broken a lead.

Thanks for the reply. In the video, yes, 800 for both but its just a short video, its not always 800. Good suggestion, I've just asked my friend to test your theory. Thanks.

Don't forget to go into switch test mode and check each switch one by one. You'll need to remove both balls and reset the drop targets up before you start the test so that there's no closed switches. Activate each switch starting from the highest number working your way to the lowest number as they're identified in the Xenon manual. It's important that you do it in reverse order and note any incorrect readings.

Thanks very much for the info, my friend has confirmed one of the yellow standups was very sensitive and has adjusted it. Strange we didn't find this before as he had previously tried the thump the playfield method and not found the dodgy switch.

Any of you Xenon troubleshooters want to take a crack at this one? Enter Xenon...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-interminent-coil-pulsing

Is there any interest in new transport tubes? With the Xenon logo (or anything else) laser engraved on there?

Any way to make the engraving light up, like engraved toppers do?

You're one step ahead of me...
I was considering also offering a replacement for the bulb strip on the back with a modern equivalent - addressable LED's controlled by an Arduino. Breathing during normal gameplay and a chase effect when you hit the tube? Very customizable.
In terms of lighting up the engraving, I was looking at something like this: ebay.com link: 2x 40mm BLUE 12 Leds SMD Angel Eyes Car Head Light Halo Rings AC252
Ordered some to try out, might just fit perfect. One on each end of the tube could give a very nice effect!

hi - great thread... I have a near-mint Xenon I bought 10 yrs ago ($1100/ebay) and am looking to play it more often.

it has 2 problems, i was hoping you could help...

- left flipper has started becoming intermittent... any ideas? it works mostly fine if i hit both flippers at once, both L & R work... but on its own its sometimes slow or doesn't move ..now how am i gonna 'try a tube shot' like that? lol

- slow traveling ball gets stuck at start of tube where it meets small metal flange.. frustrating to have to slide glass down to poke it midgame...looks like a small indentation in metal at end of ramp.. should i try to flatten w/pliers? I saw a break in tube, small piece gone at lip, so i reversed tube, that may help

xenon is my only pin, im in my 50s, remember it from my younger years, love my xenon pin thx pin dudes

My Xenon has the same issue at the tube entrance too. I also have the ball get stuck sitting on the top edge of the targets at the right, usually on the second or third targets. I have not really found a good solution to either issue.

For your flipper, I assume it is not mechanically binding. Try yanking on the solder joints in case that makes a change. Try shorting out the EOS switch and see if that makes the flipper has full power (don't hold the flipper button in that state it will quickly overheat). If that helps you can temporarily clean those contacts to get it working for a while.

For the drop targets you need to raise them so they sit above the edge of the wood. Usually this is done with a piece of cardboard and some tape on the bottom which lifts them higher a bit.

For the tube...I think we'd need to see a picture of your tube area (entrance and exit). It should have an ever so slight downward slope to the left. One end of the tube should be notched and that is where it sits on the ramp (that piece that juts out)

Replace white posts with short blue posts and double rings.

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thanks, good ideas!

here's a video i filmed last night

The Suzanne Ciani website has been modernized and all the old Xenon content appears to be gone. All the old links are dead...

https://www.sevwave.com/early_ciani/ciani_xenon.html

https://www.sevwave.com/early_ciani/ciani_xenon2.html

https://www.sevwave.com/early_ciani/ciani_xenon/xfiles/xenonQA.html

The content can still be viewed on the Wayback Machine.

n/m wrong thread!

I'm looking for a set of vocalizer roms. Does anyone know where these can be purchased or anyone out there that can burn a set for me? I have a working original set but they are causing some static and some of the speech calls are just plain rough. Sounds plus board and vocalizer board have been re-capped and I've already put a new pot on the sounds plus board. I've narrowed it down to the original rom chips being the culprit. Those things are just plain crusty. Let me know if you can help. Thanks.

If someone doesn't offer to do them for you, I know that Actionpinball.com carries them.

Silly question for the group-
Does anybody know the meaning of mota as it pertains to Xenon. I have heard a couple theories one being it is simply atom spelled backwards, more commonly it is slang for marijuana!

I always assumed it was the marijuana meaning..it even looks like a leaf. Not sure how that actually correlates with the game theme though.