Good looking Time Warp, Vid!

The leverage of the arm turns the brass switch actuator.

The little bend/dip in the arm keeps the arm from **bottoming out** the switch.

The ball sweeps over the tail of the arm.

See if PBR has it already made up.

If not, someone local to you can make you a new one

Thanks.

I'm just finishing that one up for Absolute Ali

I tried Cool White and Warm White lighting, but both of those looked like total crap. I tried Sunlight from Comet, and it nailed the color tone.

Man I really like sunlight in the GI. Works for just about everything. I even switched to it in my Xenon.

Bally part # AS-2744-44 "Micro Switch & Wire"

So Steve at PBR can't yell at you for not having the #

Thank you!

Also more kudos as I went through your bulletproofing post and did the driver board updates last night

Okay new issue.

The lamps under the right 2X and 4X have quit working. (note not the 2x and 4x in the center of the PF).

They have power getting to them via the bare ground

If I clip them to the other lights in that playfield spot they work so it's further back.

I traced them back to the aux driver board J2 pins 14 and 17. There is continuity at least until there. I am not sure if the transistors are bad or not as all those transistors don't seem to show anything like they do on the main board. I was trying to avoid taking them out to test them if possible (is it possible?).

I can't figure out where it all goes from there - where does the MPU come into that board? The manual from what I can see doesn't really say and on the aux driver board section it doesn't even reference those lamps on the schematic.

The 2X drop target lamp wire comes from the main lamp driver board J2 pin 14 and is driven by SCR Q6
The 4X drop target lamp wire comes from the main lamp driver board J2 pin 15 and is driven by SCR Q19
The 25k drop target lamp wire comes from the main lamp driver board J2 pin 2 and is driven by SCR Q31

The lamp driver board basically connects those wire signals to ground which switches on the respective lamps (the common braid wire at the base of the switched lamp sockets is actually 6.5 volts).

First thing to try is grounding those signals at the SCRs (transistor looking devices) on the lamp driver board which these lamps are connected to.

So grab a piece of wire with a little stripped from both ends. Connect one end of the wire to ground somewhere (test point "TP2 GND" on the lamp board will suffice), and touch the other end of the wire on the lower right leg of SCR Q31. You should see the 25k drop target lamp light.
Do the same with SCR Q6 and Q19. If either the 2x or 4X lamps don't light, there's a connection issue from the SCR to the respective lamp - it could be a bad solder joint at the J2 pin header on the back of the lamp driver board.
Note this ground test of the SCR leg only tests continuity from the SCR to the lamp - it doesn't actually test the SCR itself.

Next, to manually test activate the SCRs:
Disconnect the jumper wire from ground and connect it to test point TP3 on the lamp driver board. Touch the other end of the wire on the upper leg of SCR Q31 - the 25k lamp should light. Do the same with SCRs Q6 and Q19. If the 2X or 4X drop target lamps don't light, the SCR is likely suspect.

Are we talking about the same ones? Attaching a photo. The reason I ask is that the ones I am referring to go to the aux driver board J2, not the main driver board. The 25k DOES appear to go to the main driver board.

This is why I'm confused, the manual shows 2x and 4x going to the driver board, however it's not those (I am assuming the ones in the manual are actually referring to the ones in the lower center of the pf). The wires i'm looking at are red/yellow and blue/green (or something close to that) and in the manual it is showing different colors. I do not believe these have been modified by anyone.

I tested from the lamp leads to the pinout on the aux board and they definitely are going there to pins 14 and 17. Which go to Q8 and Q12 respectively. As you state, it is probably these that are bad, but what I can't figure out is where these come from the MPU to this as none of it is shown in the manual.

EDIT: I will try your testing process on these though.

0924181234_HDR (resized).jpg

Yes, those lamps are for the drop targets telling you what the next achievement is for knocking them all down.
In the old Ballys, the main lamp driver board is designated "A5". The aux lamp driver board is designated "A9".

Did you try the wire jumper tests I mentioned on the main lamp driver board to see what happens?

The aux lamp driver board only has three SCR drivers for playfield lamps - they are: A9J2-17 goes to the end of the tube, A9J2-9 goes to the side saucer and A9J3-10 goes to the shooter lane. The remainder of the Aux lamp driver board controls the lamps in the head (infinity lamps and ring lamps behind the backglass).

The schematics below say that 2X drop target lamp is a Red-Blue wire, the 4X drop target lamp is a Blue-Yellow wire, the 25k drop target lamp is a solid Blue wire.

Look at the schematic snapshots below indicating those lamps go back to the main lamp driver board:

Xenon_DT_Lamps_A5 (resized).jpg
Xenon_DT_Lamps (resized).jpg

Haven't yet, but I see where my confusion is. I was looking at the 2x and 4x on J3 (in the manual pin 1 and 26), not 2x and 4x drop targets - I thought those were the lights under the plastic behind the targets). And yes, it was red/blue, blue/yellow (not sure why i put what I did). Per what you pointed out, you see that group does go to the backbox aux board which is the piece I was missing I think.

Cool, hopefully you get to the bottom of why those lamps aren't working

thanks for the nudge in the right direction. I'll report back what I find.

Replacing those SCR's fixed the issues!

I just picked up a playfield suitable for wall art. It's pretty much fully populated.

Does anyone need the full harness or something like that from it?

Thanks,
Steven

I could put it to good use

Does it have the switch/wire part at the top of the ramp (under the metal piece that the light bar comes out of) that I ask about above? If so I'd take it! It's under the metal so you wouldn't notice it not being there.

Well I thought I would join the club, if that is alright. I picked up a project Xenon a few months ago and have started to look it over and trying to come up with a game plan to get it up and running and refurbished.

I will post some before pictures when I can, and try to keep everyone posted on my progress. This will be my 4th Bally game that I have torn apart and redone. I am considering doing a somewhat more up to date, and dramatic color change on the cabinet. Not a big fan of the black, so we'll see...

Anyway keep you posted and may need some help as I find things that do not work.

So how do you join? I was given a Xenon, that had several issues and a pretty bad PF. I've worked out most of the issues, it playable now.

I don't know I just went ahead and posted that to see what would happen

I don't know if there's some secret pledge or hand shake you have to do. Maybe just owning the game is good enough

My game does not play yet I was going to take an mpu for my Flash Gordon and put it in my Xenon just to see if it would light up but I'm not sure if that would work. If anybody has on any thoughts on that let me know

To join this club, you have to beat my high score. Just kidding but I find Xenon's rules a bit odd in that once you max the Mota Wheel bonus you either get a ton of credits or constant extra balls depending on how you set the rules.

Don't hook up anything to the game until you verify that the power supply board is putting out the correct voltages.

Then add the Solenoid Driver Board, and check if that's got the correct voltages (Important mods need to be done to this board).

Finally, add the MPU and watch for the 7 flashes on the LED.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

Sounds good. I am waiting on a new board from Marco the original had problems kept blowing the F2 fuse. I did some checks and the diodes were gone. Not sure what is up with that. So I'll keep you posted Thanks

F2 is the 200v display line.

If you are using aftermarket LED readouts, you can just leave that fuse out.

Would F2 blow if everything is unplugged from the board?

No leds and I'll check on the fuse and get back to you.

With only J5 and J6 hooked up it blew when power is turned on.

Replace the 4 diodes in the high voltage section of the board.

Yeah those are the ones I tested that came out as bad. My problem is... I am not very good at soldering boards like this. That's why I just decided to order another board.

I know what your thinking "learn how to do it" and I will at some point. Maybe when the new board comes I can use the old one as a guinea pig and see if I can change those out.

I sure appreciate the help, thanks!

Is there something that could have caused those to go bad other than age that I can check for??

If there is one thing diodes like to do, it's short out.

It's possible that you have a shorted display glass, or the regulator circuit on the SDB is shorted, but 85% chance it's just the rectifier board.

Unless you are rich, you can't own a pinball machine without soldering.

The power board is a good place to learn.

Lots of heavy traces, very few parts, and you can test your work without endangering the rest of the game.

Find the Terry B soldering guide on Pinside, it will get you going.

Well I got my new board from Marco. Installed and no blown fuses. So that's a good thing. I only hooked up the 2 transformer leads, and voltages are as follows

Tp1 7.95
Tp2 156
Tp3 12.8
Tp4 6.8
Tp5 45.9

So I am thinking that all looks good?? Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks

Looks good my friend.

Now connect only the Solenoid Driver board, and check the voltages on that board.

If they are all correct, go ahead and connect everything.

Awesome I'll work on that tomorrow

I picked up some translucent blue flippers at TPF and finally got around to installing them. Not sure if I like the blue or the white better. I’m also still in the lookout for a left sling plastics if there are any out there

6622E9B5-842B-433E-B9C1-ADBBE36A924B (resized).jpeg

Here's the manual, go to the last pages you can find all the cards and their TP voltages in the schematics.

1979Xenon_Manual.pdf

Hey thanks but I already have it copied so I have been going over it.

If this is the one you want let me know.

20181016_153751 (resized).jpg

20181016_153757 (resized).jpg

Promised a few pictures of the project so here ya go.

20181016_162555 (resized).jpg

20181016_162603 (resized).jpg

20181016_162614 (resized).jpg

20181016_162620 (resized).jpg

20181016_162632 (resized).jpg

20181016_162653 (resized).jpg

20181016_162701 (resized).jpg

In the club.
Need sling plastics.
Have blue bats but don't like them and will change back to white.

20180904_173312 (resized).jpg

Finally, I was beginning to think I was the only one.

I was given a complete Xenon for free, it had several issues, no sound, all solenoids worked intermittently and the playfield is in really bad shape tube lights were gone, but the light strip was still there.
-Got the solenoid issue fixed, loose pin on sol driver board, fixed for now, but going to replace with molex connector.
-Sound card had some bad diodes, working now,
-Coin door on the machine was replaced and no remote volume or bracket on the door made a bracket and added a pot added wired to the connector pins.
-Did the LED upgrade to the shot tube light strip.
-Replaced all the rubbers.
-Flippers are in pretty good shape, the left has about a 1/16" of play, but both move freely and are pretty tight at full extension, very little shaft wobble.

So now I have a working machine for about $100, pretty much. There are several lights, three on the left side behind the shot tube and kicker, white/green, and green/yellow and the 2X and 4X, the amber shoot again in the center of the Xenon light circle. None have power to the sockets, haven't had much time to look into this, but did look at the schematics briefly and couldn't find them, I'll look more in depth when I have time, any ideas?

I have sent an email to get me on the list with CPR for a playfield, still fairly new to pinball repair so I'll see how that goes.

Below is the playfield mess.

IMG_1321 (resized).jpg

$100 is awesome! But you need to align those flippers.

pm me if you really want a playfield, I have a CPR collecting dust. My pf is in pretty good shape except for the saucer kick-out. Not sure I need to do the swap just for that.

Thats for sure.

The flipper shafts probably already have divots in them that will align with the little dimples in the playfield (look on the playfield and find the little dimples - they align to the very tip of the flippers).

N/m It's gone.

Yea, I didn't notice that until I posted the picture, I knew someone would bring that up.

Actually small holes by each flipper tip, not behind the flipper like on my Williams machine.

Exactly.

Williams had metal inserts that went BEHIND the flippers for alignment, Bally has holes that center on the TIP of the flipper

So, like I said, there are several light with no power to them, I looked at the lamp driver schematic, not sure what they would call these lamps, look to be lights that would stay on all the time again the three are behind the tub exit and kicker, the two white 2X and 4X you can see in my PF picture and the amber shoot again, the last three might be on the switch matrix but the side lamps I don't think they'd be on the matrix. Tried to tone them out with my telecom fox and hound, but to much interference, can't hear the tone. Any ideas where I should look, like I said pretty new to pinball maintenance, my electrical knowledge is just enough to get me into trouble, I can read schematics, and I'm a good mechanic with good PD skills, but this is still new to me.

Well I should have spent more time, found the Shoot again, 2X, and 4X, need to go check on the machine. Still not sure about the gen ill lamps near the shot tube kicker area.

Those are probably on the AUX Lamp driver board, mounted between the displays.

Print this sheet, it tells you where each lamp's driver lives, and what number SCR it is and what color the wire is:

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Xenon_Tech_Chart.pdf