Is there a way to test voltage at the of the wire to see if there’s some current passing?

Can anyone help me out here? I’m reassembling my cabinet after a repaint and I can’t for the life of me figure out where these 4 metal bushings came from! They were in my cabinet hardware baggie but could conceivably have come from the backbox and got mixed up. Any ideas??

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Light panel hinges in the backbox? I'll have to look at my game later. I just did a total tear down and rebuild on the PF, and don't recall those being anywhere.

Lock down receiver. There should also be 4 thick flat washers and 4 thin flat washers. 4 8-32 by 5/8 inch machine screws and lock nuts.

You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman! Many thanks!

Two questions:

I built and installed Wolffpacc tech LED scoring displays. Fantastic product BTW! Anyhow I’m getting a loud hum after plugging in the displays. It wasn’t there prior to plugging them in. Grounding issue??

Second, some of the vocalizations are a little garbled, like the “Try” in “Try Xenon”. It sounds almost like the speaker is overloaded but the sound doesn’t change with volume. The speakers are new. The main sound board has been recapped, I haven’t done anything to the vocalizer board though. Thoughts?

Stupid question, did you connect the ground strap from cab to head? Transformer grounded properly? The transformer grounds between the metal mounting plate and the cab ground braid. The humming can be difficult to trace. I had this with an EBD, grounding the lamp driver board helped. Does the sound change when the scores switch from current to HSTD scores in attract mode?

Adding the LED score displays can rob too much of the 5V supply. You need to make sure all connectors involved have a solid connection.

Garbled speech, did you swap out the sound and speech pots with the re-cap? Turn the speech pot from low to high a few times and see if it improves. Clean with tuner spray if you have some. Try re-seating the 40 pin interconnect ribbon. Swap out speech pot if no improvement. Newer design has an enclosed case to keep dirt out. GPE has them. If that doesn't work, re-cap Vocalizer.

Awesome, thanks for all the info! Will follow your instructions. The strap is connected for sure, I didn’t remove the ground straps in the backbox but will recheck those.

That hum is there to stay with the Wolff pac displays. I tried every single recommendation on pinside and did a few alternative grounding mods and flooded this thread with questions and still the whole time the game is on - WHHHHOMMMMM EEEEEEEE WHHHHOOMMMMMMMM EEEEEEEEEE WHHHHHOMMMMMM EEEEEEE every time the game goes back and forth between last score and high score

Hrm, that’s not encouraging. Have you talked with Wolffpac? Maybe he would have some ideas?

Also, has anyone tried Wolffpac displays with the upgraded soundboard from geeteoh?

https://geeteoh.com/geeteoh/soundsplus.shtml

Which game?

You have removed the fuses for the high voltage section - it is no longer needed with LED displays ?
On WPC games I even disconnect the high voltage connectors in the cabinet so nothing is (potentially) going into the backbox.

Xenon

Yeah popped the fuse out first thing

That is good to know. I was on the fence on getting these displays.

How loud/annoying is the hum?

Likewise. I was going to get them for ebd, but now, eh!

I bought a set of Lisy displays from a fellow Pinsider for my current xe resto that I'm miles from installing, so I can't report a review for now.

The displays are awesome but for some reason they cause a hum in my xenon that is basically sound torture. Ive pretty much rebuilt the entire sound board and speech board, tried a couple things with grounding that barely helped. Theres a ground loop or something going on that I cant isolate.
I have the Wolff Pacs in my Firepower also and no issues on that game at all. If anyone figures out how to get rid of the hum they should be given a Nobel prize.

If I leave Xenon on in my basement game room, my wife can be sitting on our couch in the upstairs living room and say "You left Xenon on...."

I'm grasping here but have you thought about the line filter? Your game is picking up noise somehow. Perhaps in the transformer? If you have another bally with the cab mounted xformer it wouldn't be too much work to swap temporarily. Is the supply voltage high coming into the sound board? I had an early Alltek solenoid driver in a xe a while ago that had really high voltage to the sound board and it caused issues.

Replaced the C23 cap on the solenoid board? I had a wicked hum/whine on my Space Invaders when the display changed from last game score to high score, and replacing C23 knocked off about 80-90% of that noise.

I have Pintech displays in my Xenon and there is no hum. Bally display hum is a common occurrence on older games with analog sound boards. The fix is to ground float the sound board off the mounts by using plastic washers. You may want to try that with the Sounds plus board. Temporarily unmount it and let it float without connected to the metal ground.

Also, verify your earth ground is good by plugging an outlet tester into the service outlet.

If by chance you have any handy, try replacing capacitor C24 on the solenoid driver board with a tantalum 2.2uF 35V cap.

I rebuilt an original Driver board and recapped it, then also did a swap with a new alltek, the alltek actually made the back and forth display hums louder.

I havent tried replacing with a tantalum on C24

I'm working on bringing back to life this beautiful machine.
All is going well.
I found this tiny copper cable disconnect in the tilt bob area.
One side is attached to the screw again the wall, but where the other side goes??
Any help will be really appreciated

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Question, on my Xenon resto:

The trough kicker seems to be having trouble getting the ball over the hump in the ball trough. Adjust the arm? Is there a rubber cap piece that goes on there?
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Looks like it came unsoldered from the tilt rod

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Thank you !!!!!

I'm missing one of the white plastic bands that hold the tube in place. I'm missing the one close to the ramp.
Do you know what part is it and
where I can find one of those??

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Sending a PM

Here’s a dumb question, what keeps the metal arch at the top under the correct tension? Is there a screw that goes through the wood rail and holds it? Mine isn’t pushing back against the posts correctly when installed.

Same problem as mine. Is it a CPR playfield? I believe the mech is not in the correct position.

There are grooves under the post caps that grip the arch. You have to push and hold the arch rail against the posts as you tighten the tops down.

I swapped 2 cpr xenon and didn't have that problem on either. Try a stronger coil?

Yep, that was it. Thanks!

I loosened the mount screws and the mount won't shift forward at all. I thought about the idea of a stronger coil as well??

Is it possible the mount holes are slightly off and it's not hitting the ball with enough force?
As another option, what if I put some sort of hard plastic sleeve on the end of the arm? Make it slightly longer??

Not sure, I'm not excited about removing the mount and drilling new holes but if that is the only solution...

Fixed. I filled the prior holes with wood glue and a toothpick. Shifted the whole bracket forward about 1/16” and redrilled. Works great now.

I had the same situation awhile back on EBD. I noticed the kicker arm wasn’t sitting near enough to the ball, when the ball was at rest in the outhole. Moving the kicker arm slightly, so that it rested slightly against the ball, solved the issue completely! It has more momentum when it “pushes” the ball, rather than “smacking” it, to get it into the shooter lane. I did that by beefing up the plastic bumper with a small piece of thicker plastic tubing. Not had a problem since!

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No, the kicker arm is bare metal.

Ok last gremlin (hopefully). Everything seems to be working fine except the machine fires two balls into the shooter lane at the start of the game. I get the "Enter Xenon" prompt twice and two balls fire. I have checked the trough switch and adjusted it, seems to be fine. I checked the tube shot saucer hole switch and adjusted that one as well thinking maybe it though there was a ball there, no change.
Any ideas?

That part takes a little finesse to get it to set right.
You kind of have to find the "sweet spot"... slide/push the rail around..
slight curve bends... etc,etc,etc.
Then do final setting as Lovef2k writes post #1880.

There’s probably 10 different ways to fix this throughout the thread

Doh! Search function is my friend.

Yeah, bad microswitch. I disconnected it and problem solved.

99.9% done. I have the upgraded sound card on the way but otherwise she is in play and find bugs mode. So far, no further issues!

Thanks so much to all on the thread that helped me turn this:
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Into this:
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I am back in the club. I have been looking far and wide for this girl and settled on this example to restore. This one comes with the uber-rare metal vacuum hose tube shot mod already installed. How lucky can a guy get ? EA679144-59E3-436F-862E-9E88E1645EB4 (resized).jpeg46B9D13E-2A9F-4A01-B2DC-587EA1B9B4F1 (resized).jpeg

Welcome back. Other than the vacuum tube she looks complete.

Im curious to hear the sound the ball makes going through that tube LOL

Probably more like a high pitched cry of pain rather than an "ooh" or an "aah", or so I have heard.

Where did you get those apron cards?

I bet that metal tube sounds strange. That be the first thing to go. Welcome back to the club.

Mr_Tantrum

I'm happy with the restoration results....I'm new to the club.

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I will ask this question in the nicest way, but you do know that the posts for Xenon came from the factory as blue ?

Over time, most Xenon posts faded to pink and yours are no different.

Some people like the look of pink or don't know that the original color was blue.

Not a right or wrong decision, just curious why you used the original faded to pink posts instead of new blue ?