It’s 18. Here’s a shot of the manual with the different options.

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Thanks to @mrm_4!! Got my plates in the mail today. Installed already. Nice touch and they look super sweet.

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Chrome legs added, put on the remaining plastic, a little refresher cleaning, and new playfield glass. Threw the coin box in and up to the game room.

Sweet to see her in some glory again.

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That was the issue! Thanks again for the assistance

I prefer the music off with just the sounds playing. Considering getting one of these:

https://geeteoh.com/geeteoh/soundsplus.shtml

Please help if you can. Does anyone happen to have a spare Kmiec post for sale, or know where I might buy one? Is it available from a supplier? Does anyone have a part number? TIA, mk

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The dimensions of this Kmiec post seem slightly smaller than the other ribbed blue posts used in this section. Is this true? Also, wouldn't this make the 1.5" rubber in this area bouncier?

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I wanted to give a review for Matt and M&M creations on his MRS Xenon tube switch. I highly recommend this as a replacement for the AS-2744-14 microswitch & wire (Xenon switch # 27). This original microswitch is NLA as far as I know.

If you are sick of bending switch wires and taking microswitches from coin doors, get one of these. I find it better than any microswitch.

Matt is a great supplier and really is concerned about producing the best possible product.

A few posted asking about installing the switch, and where it works the best. For me the location in the attached picture was the best. MRM 4 found placing his at about 7:30 was best. My pictured location would be 5:00 on the tube. For me, this 5:00 location was in the closest possible proximity to the original microswitch location. It is high enough that it doesn't false read from balls beneath it or get hit (CAUTION) by balls in the bumper area. This position for me would read both fast shots and slow shots through the tube.

You must use care when installing the switch. The reed switch inside the epoxy and casing is glass. if it takes an impact from the steel ball it could break. Make sure you keep it high enough that the ball can't hit it in the bumper area.

DO NOT expose the switch adhesive until you are sure you have found the best location for the switch on your machine. Experiment first using tape to lightly hold the switch on the outside of the tube until you find the best location. This will be where the switch is reading fast & slow shots, but is not too low to get hit with the ball or get false readings from balls in the bumper area. Also, you must place the switch far enough away from metal (the ramp, or the original microswitch metal cover if you are using it) so it does not get false readings.

Conduct your tests in active game mode, NOT switch test mode. Actual game mode strobes faster than switch test mode and will recognize your switch differently than in test mode.

All machines are a bit different. Your machine's pitch as well as slight variations in the ramp height and angle can make the ideal location on your machine different than another. You may also want to add a few inches of wire to the leads to give you more room (see picture) to try different locations without stretching the wires too much. After you have found the best location, use the alcohol pad to clean the area where you will apply the switch.

You might want to add a cap to the switch (see picture) to ensure a better detection of the switch from the MPU.

Please post a picture of your best working switch location so others might learn and have ideas of where to install their switch.

Thanks to Matt at M&M creations for making the switch!

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It’s an oldie but a goodie:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-clubmembers-onlytry-xeeeenon/page/28#post-6646400

OK, so mrm_4 has his placement the same as mine, so let's universally call this the 7:30 position if we are reading the clock from the exit end of the tube. So, both mrm_4 and I have found the 7:30 position to work best for our machines. Nice picture mrm_4 from your link.

Pretty much all of page 28 shows the whole story on this switch from tossing out ideas with Kderrick to play_pinball pulling in Sonic to see if something was possible. I like how this little switch came to be. Awesome display of Pinside's power. #goteam

Thank you mrm 4, @Kderrik, and play_pinball as well as Sonic for this switch!

Finally got to the stenciling stage. I’ve stenciled several machines before but this head stencil…it’s evil.

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damn that is sexy. Nice work on the colors.

Hey thanks! I wasn't sure on the blue. It's darker than the original on my cabinet but who know how much fade there has been over the years. I'm using Rustoleum rattle can so colors are a little limited as well.

Anyone have a suggestions for speaker replacement or upgrade for these early solid state Ballys? My Xenon has tired speakers and I also have a Harlem Globetrotters and a Meteor in the restoration queue.

OEM factory Bally speakers (two in Xenon) are 5 1/2” 8 ohm 8W.

I have used these from Parts Express on a ton of Bally games. Good solid full range speaker for the old blips and beeps.

https://www.parts-express.com/Visaton-BG13P-5-Full-Range-Speaker-8-Ohm-292-644

If you want a cheaper one, it even has a voice coil and 200W max.

https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-5SBM1-8-5-1-4-Sealed-Back-Midrange-with-1-Voice-Coil-8-Ohm-292-431?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=18127373974&utm_content=&utm_term=&gadid=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmdGYBhDRARIsABmSEeOO_GHnhY0WiRXHRTz5jgz37GGIp1DRl_C3aCtrWxYpohFJJjpBWMUaAjS9EALw_wcB

Just wanted to give mrm_4 a thank you for being a standup pinsider and tossing these xenon coin slot cards in the mail to me! Just gotta cut some lexan and toss them in. Thanks so much man!

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Ordered a nifty skate stand and got my topper in place.

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Since everyone is showing off lol, for those that don't know, there was a promo poster made for xenon when released. It's much bigger than the flyer. Found on ebay some years back and framed it. I think some copies were printed recently so beware.

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That is super sweet. If you’re not gonna hang it up I’ll be happy to throw it up in my game room.

Got a few things Xenon other than the game. I feel like I have more hiding somewhere…

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Haha it's been hung since the photo.

Automotive speakers have the best fidelity. That's what we used in Xenon.

Hey xenon owners wondering if you can chime in here.

Sometimes when there is a ball locked in the saucer and I tilt the machine the ball in the saucer will kick out and then both balls will drain and sometimes both end up in the shooter lane.

It only seems to happen when I wiggle the machine to tilt it. If I just manually activate the tilt Bob then it does not kick the ball out of the saucer.

I thought maybe the locked ball was rocking back and forth during a tilt and triggering the saucer switch multiple times but I adjusted that switch so it stays closed when there is a ball locked in there even if you are wiggling the machine.

I checked switch test and everything appears to be working as it should.

There is a new altek CPU installed.

I put the machine in switch test and wiggled the machine and banged the playfield but no switch activates.

The tilt Bob switch and the saucer switch are not in the same row or column in the switch Matrix.

The tilt switch under the play field is not adjusted too close together and it works fine as well.

From your experience is it normal for the locked ball to kick out during a tilt? I feel like it is not normal.

Can't seem to figure this one out though. Any other suggestions?

When it tilts is it ending the game or just current ball? Are you manually tilting the game or is it random? I would clip the capacitor at the tilt mech in the cab. It isn't really neccessary unless using the game for tournament play. It could be shorting out and causing a switch closure. As far as the side eject kicking after tilt it may be a punishment thing or simulating end of game?

Both balls ending up in shooter lane is still a mystery to me. I disconnected one wire from the micro and the issue never happened again and the game fine otherwise.

If I have a ball locked and I tilt it will kick out the locked ball ... so I'd say "normal"

What I think may be happening with the 2 balls in shooter lane is :

when the machine resets from the tilt it launches the 1'st ball THEN the ball kicked out from lock lands in the outhole and launches the 2'nd ball thinking the 1'st ball did NOT qualified the playfield.

I Just tried it with the glass off holding the 2'nd ball then dropped it in the outhole while 1'st ball was in shooter lane

Thanks for reaching out!

When it tilts is is just ending the ball. Both balls drain and sometimes both end up in the shooter lane. If it was ending the game the balls would stay in the trough I would imagine.

I am manually and actively tilting the game. Not a random tilt.

I was considering replacing the tilt bob cap (I am about to run a tournament with xenon included so tilt has to be somewhat sensitive). Not sure if that would fix the issue but I guess it would not hurt.

If i get 2 balls in the trough I can stick one back in the lock and the game resumes as normal so that kind of makes me thing it should NOT kick out with a tilt?

The 2 ball thing ONLY has happened with the tilt and release of the captive ball and not any other times so I think my trough switches are ok.

Thanks for the reply!

Hmmm so it DOES kick out on your machine with a tilt? That is very interesting.

I think you are perfectly correct about the 2 balls making their way to the trough. It seems when they both drain close to eachother both do not end up in the shooter lane but if there is a few seconds between the balls draining the 2nd ball kicks to the trough (like you say, the machine thinks it is the 1st ball not validating the playfield).

Can you try to tilt the machine just by moving the tilt bob with your hand and not moving the entire machine (with a ball locked) and see if the ball kicks out of the lock then? If I just activate the tilt with my hand it does NOT kick out??????

interesting, If I use my finger to move the tilt-bob it does the same as yours, tilts but doesn't eject the locked ball

I did it twice balls 1 & 2 with a ball in the shooter lane , for ball 3 with a ball in the shooter lane I moved the machine as a regular tilt & the ball was kicked out of the shooter lane

the next game .... locked a ball ...ball shot in shooter lane ,tilted machine moving the box ..... ball ejected from side saucer & when it drained machine reset & launched a 2'nd ball into shooter lane

I took 1 of the 2 balls & re-locked it, when I moved the tilt-bob by hand it DIDN'T kick the ball from side saucer

I do. And I’m just playing it at the moment while I put my shopping list together for it.

Thanks for testing that out! Really appreciate that. Not sure what to think of that. Just does not make any sense to me yet why moving the machine causes the eject but hand tilting does not. I wonder if we share some common issue or this is just the way it is on Xenon machines?

Well for tournament play they usually keep my grubby fingers out of the coin-box area & keep the position of the tilt-bob a BIG SECRET !

One side of the cab is done. Stenciled the red this morning with the help of my buddy @pinhead52. This is DEFINITELY a two person stencil pull!!!

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Ordered this in China (AliExpress) You hardly can recognize the hands because of Xenons face. But, it's funny, anyhow.

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Can someone do me a solid and take a pic of the lower right corner of the front of your cab? Specifically I need a shot of the two yellow grounding straps that are in that corner. My pic I took doesn’t show exactly where both go. This is the corner I’m referencing, I have one strap connecting the two coin door frames and my pic looks like a second strap goes…where?

Edit: I got it, two small straps together connected to the braid there.

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What is it?

Analog clock.

If you look very close, you can see the hands of the clock.

Haha helps when you blow up the pic

Two LEDS issue on this Xenon is driving me bananas.

I have reflowed J1 and J2 connectors on the board.

I have changed the Q2 resistor and Q16 are both giving me consistent reads.

I have "wiggle" the connector at the strip itself but that didn't help.

What would be the best way to try and find the issue with these two leds...?

Thank you vec-tor and @lovef2k: I know you both provided ways to test continuity but I do feel like a pre-k kid ast this and, even though I'm sure your instructions are very clear, I'm still confused as to how I should test for continuity...

If you have any more suggestions, I'm really trying hard to make this work!!!

Thanks!

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I read the schematics and the connector associated with this group 1 is the yellow/green one. I haven't yet had the chance to repin it but, somehow, I am not confident this will be the solution as I have wiggled it already. (I'm trying, at least!!!)

That's why if you have any other suggestions, I'd love to hear them!

Thanks!

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Did you check the solder joints on the bottom of the LED strip itself?

I’ve disliked every Xenon topper I’ve seen but this is awesome. I was a skater in high school and quit in my 20’s. I might try to make one of these decks when I stencil my cab. Awesome idea.

Did you rule out the lamp strip? Bad trace, bad bulbs? I would try jumping between pin 1 and pin 3 to see the group 1 lamps light. And vice versa. In lamp test mode I would think that jumping pin 1 to ground should light the lamps. The switched lamps always have power via the bus line. The lamp driver switches the lamps on via the ground side. Do not ground pin 5 to ground, this is the bus line. On the lamp strip check continuity between pin 5 to traces that feed group 1 lamps. Also check between pin to the other side of the lamps. You can also unplug the strip and test it with a 9v battery. Test leads with alligator clips would be handy for this. One side of battery to pin 5 and one side to the rest of the pins one at a time.

If you're checking continuity in the wiring harness, you have to check continuity from the tube strip all the way to the SCR. If the pin inside the connector is bad or broken you can have continuity between the top of the connector on the lamp board and the connector on the tube strip, but you will not have continuity between the tube strip and the SCR.

Thanks Lovef2k for you reply.
How do I “jump” between pin 1 and pin 3. I’m sorry if this sounds super silly to ask but I’m not familiar with the process. I suspect I should connect a wire from 3 to 1 but I’m not quite sure how.

I’m also super integrated in jumping Group 1 to ground and I believe it qu’ils be super helpful but I’m not sure how to perform this.

I would absolutely test with a 9V as this is fairly easy, I believe.

I suspect Group 1 to be a connecting issue as both the lights are out but it might be the bulbs.