Thanks Thun. Yeah that was it, I was pulling my hand away too quickly. All pops and slings did indeed register in switch test. Now to figure out why that tube lane switch keeps closing on its own.

As we used to say, 'That's not a bug, its a feature'. When the ball passes through the tube the background sound is silenced. Landing in the bonus saucer is supposed to collect bonus and restart it. But If the ball comes off the tube and misses the saucer the background sound does not restart until our next tube shot. There is a spring post and a nail just before the saucer that is supposed to slow down the ball so it doesn't miss, but as much as I adjust it the ball sometimes skips over the saucer robbing me of bonus and background sound .

As for the left kickout, its controlled by a switch at the end of the tube that's there to make sure 2 balls do not get stuck in the left saucer. Sounds like the switch is out of adjustment or its capacitor is bad and the game is seeing it randomly closing.

I put a traditional finned post in the chamber to slow the ball down because it was flying through and jumping the hole.
Had to sand a little bit off the bottom of the post so it would fit against the rail.
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Yup, just had to open up the gap a little and no more phantom closures. Got my flukey pop bumper and inlane switch problems fixed earlier too. The little minx has been playing perfectly all night.

A few proud papa pix. Playfield and plastics are all original. My tube was a little longer than the size that Marco states on their website, so I ordered a longer piece and cut my own to fit, plus it was cheaper and I have enough left over for a spare when this one gets old. Sanded and buffed the cut ends so it looks more polished too.
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Ok a little more info about my non-lighting LED Tube strip. This was purchased new from Marco, it's the Pindorabox.com strip. Listed on the Marco website as plug and play.

I put the machine into switched lamp test and measured voltage across the pins with it plugged in. I do get between 3-4 volts between the switched bus and the other pins during switch test but the LEDs themselves are not lighting.

Testing with a 9v battery to the pins on the light strip directly does cause the LEDs to light.

So although I have switched bus power I'm not getting enough voltage to light the lights?

I checked the solder joint for that bus wire to the main playfield bus and resoldered it to be sure. It seems fine. I have good bus power to that strip of wire and register about 5 volts in switch test to the other controlled lights on that particular braid. They are lighting fine with the exception of the Capture When Lit lamp which isn't lighting at all. I get very minimal voltage (like 0.3 or so) across that lamp socket. It's new.

Any ideas here?

Just to confirm, the switch bus you're measuring at is pin 5 (should be a blue wire) on the lamp strip board connector? What happens if you temporarily jumper it direct with another wire?

Yes, blue wire position 5. So I understand what you’re saying, when you say jumper over you are meaning jumper from that pin on the connector over to one of the other ground wire pins? Or are you meaning something else?

I mean to temporarily jumper a second wire from the lamp strips pin 5 to the under playfield switched lamp bus braid wire. Essentially to double up connectivity from the switched lamp power bus directly to the lamp strip board on the power pin in case there's a weak connection on the connector.

Edit: Ok, breakthrough info. I soldered up a test incandescent bulb, just soldered two wires onto the bulb. If I put it into lamp test and touch the bulb leads to the header pins on the lamp board the bulb flashes at each position as it should.

So, I soldered some test LEDs onto the old lamp strip board. Plugged that in and they lit for a few cycles before burning out. Needed a resistor on the board. They were spares anyhow.

So, with me using the Altek lamp driver board is it possible that the resistors on the new LED lamp board are too much for the current since there are also resistors on the Altek board?? I may try to measure voltage across the individual bulbs on the new board and see. I don’t know what the required voltage is across those particular LEDs but most of the 5 mm blue ones I’ve seen are 3.2-3.4 volts. I’ve also ordered some LEDs and resistors and will try to get the old strip working again as well. Worst case scenario I’ll have a backup.

I don't think so. I presume the Alltek board has load resistors somewhere between 470 ohms and 1k ohms. The same can probably be said for the lamp strip board. Roughly speaking if they both had 470 ohms, then in parallel it equate to 235 ohms - the LEDs themselves also bring this down. Incandescent lamps are very low resistance in the order of about 3 ohms when cold/unlit and 20 ohms when warm/lit.

You can presume the LEDs used will be about the same voltage rating.

Did they put two LEDs in series meaning 6+V is required to illuminate each LED pair or did they use resistors in series with each LED individually for proper in range current draw. I could only say with clear pictures of the LED strip boards if you can provide them.

Hey fellow Xenon-lovers! A while ago, play_pinball asked me to work up something to replace the Bally coin-door decal on Xenon. A century later I finally drew up something and ordered a few samples from Sticker Mule on their "holographic" stock (pics attached). I wanted to gauge interest on here to see if I should get a larger quantity printed.

I did my best to design them in a way that they integrated with the cabinet, but also work well as a standalone sticker. Thoughts?

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I want one!

I'd be interested as well depending on price.

Here’s a few pics of the light board in question:

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Try disconnecting the jumper from the alltek lamp driver and see if the strip works. This is the only after market lamp strip I have seen with resistors.

Can you post pictures showing the back of the board that also includes the connector so I can see how traces run between the resistors, LEDs and the connector?
Also can you tell me the color bands on the resistors? I can't properly make them out in the pictures

That really does look very good.

I’ll take one if you print more

Mission accomplished! I did Vid’s method on the old board. I chose red LEDs over blue, kinda felt like there is enough blue on the machine especially since I have blue LEDs in the pops. 100 ohm resistor at the front. Works like a charm. Pay no attention to the flippers, they haven’t been set yet.

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Does anyone have spare saucer eject bracket they’d sell? This one has a broken weld.

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Damn man…that came out great.

I’d be down for one of those.

I like that it doubles as a standalone sticker too. A while back I was debating taking the male head off the top of my skateboard and making a sticker for the coin door of that.

Thought it would be cool looking at it from the front, with her face up on the backglass at the same time (kind of a reverse of the sides of the backbox).

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Pretty excited, started doing some things to mine. Time to get it back together. Bought the damn thing over a year ago.

Under the apron was filthy as hell. Playfield isn’t great, so I could use a hardtop or a NOS.

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Yeah.. too bad for the planking.. the wear is actually pretty minimal for this title.. many times that whole middle section is bare wood.

Definitely. I think this is the fifth one I’ve owned, and I’ve had two really nice examples before. This title definitely saw a lot of action when it first came out, being Bally’s first talker.

Everything under the apron cleaned, polished and reassembled. Game feels happier already.

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And mine actually was worse. I put some Frisket down and re-sprayed the red. I tried a different airbrush paint, and I didn’t reduce it enough, went on a little thick. Still looks better for what it is for now. Need to clean it up with a few Q-tips in areas.

Just going to touch up some of the black and call it a day. It will have to be redone at some point anyway.

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Picked up this trippy shooter rod from PinFest too.

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That skateboard is killer!

I got the same one at PinBrew!

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Very cool. Just received my hardtop for Xenon. Project is on the horizon. Who sold you the shooter rod at Pinfest. Where did you get the coinslot inserts?
Thanks

Damn I missed those!

I think Matt made those coin door inserts himself. I told him I want a set.

The shooter rod I got from Bill at Super Skill Shot.

https://superskillshot.com/

Good guy, and 100% customer satisfaction. He will make sure you’re happy with it. I also got one for the GTB Spider-Man I’m restoring, and an eyeball one for my HH or Class of 1812. Haven’t decided which one I’ll throw that on yet.

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Nice! Thanks for sharing.

Always man. Good to see you and catch up with you at the show.

Yeah I made those inserts, I had this game set up in the hardtop row at Pinbrew and Bruce and Scott from Hardtop liked them as well and said they want to start selling coin inserts now so watch out for that.
I totally forgot that you wanted a set Colsond3

Sorry for the delay! Seems I got a decent chunk of interest in these. I'll order a batch soon and update once they arrive!

As far as price I was figuring on about $5 per. If you order multiples, we can hammer out a different price. Send me a PM if you're still interested.

How common is this "metal shield" on the upper left plastic? See pic 1 below, Thanks jibmums for the picture.wall 1 (resized).jpg

I don't recall this shield ever being on my Xenon. How important is this shield? Were they on all Xenons?

I don't recall ever having trapped ball issues on my Xenon form this shield not being there. See pic 2. DSC04564 (resized).JPG

Does anybody know where I might be able to buy one of these shields? Please help if you can. Thanks, mk

I have had 3 Xenons and they all had it. Buying it? Well that will be difficult unless somebody offers up a spare. If the ball never gets stuck up there, I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks Lovef2k for the response. I never had a ball get stuck on the playfield with no guard in that area that I can recall, and I played that old playfield for over 15 years. However, If someone has an extra one of these, I would be interested in buying or trading for one. Feel free to PM me if you might have one. Thanks, mk

Both of mine have it and I don't think I've ever had a ball end up there either. But just yesterday I had a ball jump up on the right arch and drop down into the shooter lane. Never had that happen before.

Like F2K I have had 3 Xenon's and all had it, plus the 2 extra PFs I bought. I'll look thru my parts bins.

They all had the shield from the factory

It's also used on Vector

Yes, looks great. I also would be interested.

Hi fellow XENON owners. I just put my spare, tested & working XENON VOCALIZER and SOUNDS PLUS boards up for sale on eBay. If anyone needs these, please send me a message. The VOCALIZER has a brand new data cable on it and the SOUNDS PLUS has new capacitors. These are good to have if your XENON speech isn't working or you want spares. Sorry for the sales plug but thought maybe someone would be in need of these. Thanks.

calico1997

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I have this jumper wire running from my Test Point 3 on the rectifier board from the previous owner. Anybody know why it’s like that? It seems to be some kind of ground.

I also noticed that this game has the AS 2518-132 rectifier board instead of the factory AS 2518-54. I think that board was only used in Baby Pac-Man and maybe one or two other games. I believe they are interchangeable though?

When I power up, my F3 6A fuse keeps blowing? I only get G.I. lights, no booting sequence. I know that was a 4A fuse on the -54 board.

All of the boards I have, other than the rectifier board, were serviced by Clive at Coin Op Cauldron. They were all gone over and tested so they should be good.

Any help would be appreciated.

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What’s up Vid!!! How the hell have you been?

I would pull and test Diodes CR4, CR5, CR6, and CR7. I have seen these fail before; and the originals are about 40 years old.

You may want to just replace this with a modern -54 replacement:

ebay.com link: itm

or

ebay.com link: itm

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Correction, these diodes are CR5, CR6, CR7, and CR8, NOT CR4.

All is well my brother.

Back stateside, trying not to piss into the wind.

I think that should be 12v on TP3, so if it's connected to gnd, that will blow your F3 fuse and you won't have 5v to boot from

Unplug J3 from the board

Check those 4 big diodes with power off, if good:

Unsolder that jumper wire, put a 4a fuse in F3 and apply power. see if you have ~12v on tp3