Quoted from BigAl56:Only if doing what I call an 'Anal' restoration.
In my experience they fail so rarely I dont bother.
(Topic ID: 174124)
Quoted from BigAl56:Only if doing what I call an 'Anal' restoration.
Well, I have cleaned coil dust out of coils with a q-tip….
Palatine, IL
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Well, I have cleaned coil dust out of coils with a q-tip….
OK, Thats borderline but well let it pass. 
Quoted from vec-tor:Green & White wires can go together = gnd.
Red & Orange wires can go together = +6.3 volts A.C.
Awesome thanks! That’s what I thought but I wanted to double check before I soldered a dead short together!
Quoted from PantherCityPins:I also re-blued the spring leafs on the drop switches. First time doing this as well.
How do you do that?
Quoted from jibmums:How do you do that?
I bought a gun bluing kit at Academy. https://www.academy.com/p/birchwood-casey%C2%AE-complete-perma-blue%C2%AE-liquid-gun-blue-kit
Was pretty easy actually. Derusted the springs in evaporust, then rinsed them and did the rebluing process. The kit was $17 at Academy and took me all of about 20 minutes total.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:I also re-blued the spring leafs on the drop switches. First time doing this as well.
Before:
[quoted image]
After:
[quoted image]
Nice work. I run the memory coil plungers in the tumbler until shiny. Springs too.
Looks like I’m heading down the home stretch in this playfield swap and restore. Any ideas on how to go about plugging everything in to re-power things on?
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Looks like I’m heading down the home stretch in this playfield swap and restore. Any ideas on how to go about plugging everything in to re-power things on?
I start with just j1 plugged in on rectifier board to test GI lamps. A fuse will pop right away if there's a short. Turn off power and return the rest of the connectors where they go. Fire up game with back box open. Listen for any locked coils, watch led on mpu and smell for anything burning. Once all clear run through all the self tests. Most likely will need to adjust some switches.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I start with just j1 plugged in on rectifier board to test GI lamps. A fuse will pop right away if there's a short. Turn off power and return the rest of the connectors where they go. Fire up game with back box open. Listen for any locked coils, watch led on mpu and smell for anything burning. Once all clear run through all the self tests. Most likely will need to adjust some switches.
Got it, thanks!
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Another question.
My slingshot switches are a bit tired. They are three lug with a diode. The replacements I have are two lug. Can I just solder in without the diode or should I pirate the 3rd lug off the old switches?
New switch next to old switch:
[quoted image]
Take the third lug from the old switch. You need it for a solder point for the diode.
Quoted from dothedoo:Take the third lug from the old switch. You need it for a solder point for the diode.
Just for my education, what's the function of the diode here?
Having an issue with my Xenon blowing the playfield fuse, made a separate post here if anyone can help:
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Just for my education, what's the function of the diode here?
It's part of the switch matrix. Pay attention to the band on the diode. Wire it like it was on old switch. You only need the solder lug on one sling switch per side.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Just for my education, what's the function of the diode here?
The switches are constructed on a grid system.
Each diode isolates the grid to one switch closer.
Excellent info, thanks all!
I copied the old switches exactly and only modified one of the two as per the originals. Paid special attention to the band side of the diode so hopefully everything works correctly. Only a few odds and ends left and the swap will be done! Phew!
Can someone verify this wire placement for me please? This game had two aftermarket flipper coils on it and I have soldered them back as they were in my pictures but the small wires coming from the lugs are different. In one the small wire comes off the outside lug which is hot and in the other it looks to be coming off the middle lug??
Am I soldered correctly here?
C06037A4-F3AD-4AA5-A1FF-85FF982F7B65 (resized).jpegF03DE8EB-470E-4F52-BA82-360F7F8BBE6D (resized).jpegQuoted from PantherCityPins:Can someone verify this wire placement for me please?
They look right to me.
But are they really 24-500 on the thrust winding or is it a typo on the coil wrappers? Usually those Bally flipper coils are 25-500 on the thrust winding.
Quoted from Quench:They look right to me.
But are they really 24-500 on the thrust winding or is it a typo on the coil wrappers? Usually those Bally flipper coils are 25-500 on the thrust winding.
Oh, good catch! I printed out the wrong wrappers. DOH.
Thanks for checking my work on the wiring.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Tube shot question. I’m fiddling with placing my new tube and it seems like it’s not fitting correctly. The angled metal bracket should be on the outside of the tube correct?
[quoted image]
Yes, it goes on the outside.
I think the locations of my spacers is incorrect on the ramp. Also my machine was missing the playfield plastic posts on the inside curve of the ramp near the pop. Does anyone have the correct spacer placements or maybe a picture of the correct posts in the area?
Also, what screw sizes are really needed? There are some monster long screws that were in my original playfield but they are on their last legs. I can’t find a wood screw that long that is still a thin enough diameter anywhere!
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Tube shot question. I’m fiddling with placing my new tube and it seems like it’s not fitting correctly. The angled metal bracket should be on the outside of the tube correct?
[quoted image]
I had the same problem when I installed my tube. When I place it inside the angled metal bracket, the nylon loop (at the top of your photo) is pulled toward the front of the machine by 1/8 - 1/4" or so. Had to have been misaligned like that when I took everything apart, but who would double-check something like that?
Quoted from jibmums:I had the same problem when I installed my tube. When I place it inside the angled metal bracket, the nylon loop (at the top of your photo) is pulled toward the front of the machine by 1/8 - 1/4" or so. Had to have been misaligned like that when I took everything apart, but who would double-check something like that?
Well I discovered part of the problem. The CPR playfield I am using is one that the previous owner was doing a playfield swap on and never finished. Looks like he drilled the holes for the ramp near the tube exit incorrectly. They’re off by about 1/8”. So I’ll fill them with epoxy tomorrow and redrill them correctly.
Now just to figure out the spacers for the ramp!!
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Now just to figure out the spacers for the ramp!!
Is this what you're looking for?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-gray-posts#post-4346256
Quoted from Quench:Is this what you're looking for?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-gray-posts#post-4346256
Yes thanks! That certainly will help get me started!
PantherCityPins Although it will work the way you have it the flipper coils are turned the wrong way. The lugs should be at the back by the coil stop and the compression washer goes in the front.
Quoted from BigAl56:Pinball_Gizzard Although it will work the way you have it the flipper coils are turned the wrong way. The lugs should be at the back by the coil stop and the compression washer goes in the front.
That was done as per Vid’s guide. Apparently there was a service bulletin from Bally in the mid-80s that said there was an issue with diode failure related to the coil stop being right next to the diodes. They recommended reversing the coil to try and help. Probably would never be an issue with home use but I figured I’d try it this way this time, maybe I’ll go back to the old way next time.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Well I discovered part of the problem. The CPR playfield I am using is one that the previous owner was doing a playfield swap on and never finished. Looks like he drilled the holes for the ramp near the tube exit incorrectly. They’re off by about 1/8”. So I’ll fill them with epoxy tomorrow and redrill them correctly.
Mine is an original playfield. Maybe your guy drilled it correctly, and they're all off by 1/8".
Quoted from jibmums:Mine is an original playfield. Maybe your guy drilled it correctly, and they're all off by 1/8".
I don't think so, the tube won't line up with the ramps the way it is. There are two holes drilled for the exit ramp hardware and if you use the outer holes (I assume the original dimple location) the tube will line up. The other set of holes, not so much. Also when you use the outer holes to get the tube to line up the small ramp is all crooked and doesn't sit flush with where the holes were drilled.
My guess is he had the correct holes drilled originally and couldn't get things to line up for some reason and started to drill more holes. Calamity ensued.
Here's what that side of the PF looks like currently:
image (resized).jpgOut of curiousity what is the little light hole on the apron for? There was a socket stapled to the playfield underneath there. When does it light? Should I go through the trouble of reinstalling a socket and bulb?
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Out of curiousity what is the little light hole on the apron for? There was a socket stapled to the playfield underneath there. When does it light? Should I go through the trouble of reinstalling a socket and bulb?
Lights up when there are 1 or more credits in the game. One of the adjustments in the MPU turns off the credits in the backbox display (in fact I have to turn mine back on) and that lamp lets you know that you have credits available to play if the display is off. When it's on, too.
Quoted from jibmums:Lights up when there are 1 or more credits in the game. One of the adjustments in the MPU turns off the credits in the backbox display (in fact I have to turn mine back on) and that lamp lets you know that you have credits available to play if the display is off. When it's on, too.
First thing you looked for as a kid in the arcade.
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Out of curiousity what is the little light hole on the apron for? There was a socket stapled to the playfield underneath there. When does it light? Should I go through the trouble of reinstalling a socket and bulb?
Historically, the credit light was very important as in some regions of the country it was illegal to display a number of credits remaining less you have something of value to transfer thus fitting the game into a narrow definition of gambling. In later years, manufacturers moved to lighted credit buttons and in modern times they can just post on the backbox display there are credits to be played.
Back in the EM days, games would come with a sticker that would cover the credit wheel window.
Note: Certain states have anti-gambling/buying laws.
------ A black out window was placed over the credit window so no one
------ could by games off of the unknown value.
------ To let a player know that the game has credits the bottom card tray
------ has a lite indicator... how credits ??? One had to press the start button to find out.
What would cause the left pop bumper to randomly fire when the left flipper button is released? Doesn’t happen when I hit the flipper happens randomly when I let go of the button.
Once every 10 or so games I’ll get the pop to fire when I let off the flipper button. Starting to get more common.
New diodes on coil and switch of the pop. I have Alltek MPU and SDB. Does it with an original SDB also when I swapped it with a different game for a bit.
I was trying to apply some switch matrix logic some of you guys in the club taught me but I’m not seeing how the flippers tie into the matrix with this game.
Quoted from mrm_4:What would cause the left pop bumper to randomly fire when the left flipper button is released? Doesn’t happen when I hit the flipper happens randomly when I let go of the button.
Once every 10 or so games I’ll get the pop to fire when I let off the flipper button. Starting to get more common.
New diodes on coil and switch of the pop. I have Alltek MPU and SDB. Does it with an original SDB also when I swapped it with a different game for a bit.
I was trying to apply some switch matrix logic some of you guys in the club taught me but I’m not seeing how the flippers tie into the matrix with this game.
The switch matrix picks up the collapsing magnetic field and triggers a phantom activation.
I have found caps added to the flipper EOS almost eliminates this.
Quoted from Black_Knight:Are flippers on the switch matrix?
Nope.
The wiring is all bundled together so very prone to this problem.
Then your diagnosis seems odd but I’m no EE. Flipper switches are high voltage and matrix is low. I’ve never heard your explanation on any other problem.
Quoted from Black_Knight:Then your diagnosis seems odd but I’m no EE. Flipper switches are high voltage and matrix is low. I’ve never heard your explanation on any other problem.
Ok.
Ok. You modified your response but I’ve never experienced it in all the machines I’ve had or seen it mentioned anywhere.
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