play_pinball I snapped a pic of the other area grey posts for the ramp here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-gray-posts#post-4346256

I missed that post in my digging. Thanks for linking chas10e

Your picture is of the memory target knock down coils and not of switch wiring. The switch wiring will be on the backside of the target assembly. Something is stuck together, or is the target knocked down when you are running the test?

Awesome! I’d love to come across one with a really nice/ repro playfield. Mines ok but definitely players condition. Easily the best art in pinball.

I am joining the club by showing a picture of my blue LED Xenon.

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Have to show you one more picture...

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I don't get it. Is this a house of worship? Is that Suzanne on the balcony LOL.

What the???????

Very interested in the story here lol. Especially since Xenon is a little sexual in nature...

A little??!

The story is just that XENON went to church to confess her sins and for a little prayer...

Ok, seriously, I will tell you the story.

This is what I think is called in Englisch "nativity play".

Just imagine you are the pastor and have to organize this play year after year. So surely you want to add some variety. So, in one year, you will tell the story from the perspective of one of the three kings, the next year you will make one of the angels the story-teller.

So, one year, the story was told from the perspective of one of Bethlehems pub hosts. So, in this nativity play, the chancel of our church was the pub and of course, there had to be a pinball in the corner of the "pub".

In fact, the pastor himself (who was playing the role of a random pub guest) had to play a single ball while the other guests were diskussing the events of the holy night.

The church is only a few meters away from my home, so I just rolled XENON across the street, not even removing legs or backbox for the travel.

Unfortunately, Suzanne Ciani is not a member of our parish. I would love to listen to her playing our church organ

Lol, that would be cool!

You mean your church Moog.

Is this prototype real? Anybody know the story behind this XRated Nipple playfield? ebay.com link: itm

I read about it on rgp years ago so probably legit. Idk about one of a kind though. There may be others in games.

I talked to Greg K years back. The real proto had a black plastic ramp as opposed to stainless.

After looking at his other playfields for sale, this could be a cpr. They didn't have the hologram on their pfs back then but I vaguely remember them offering the nipple version for sale. Roughly 2009ish.

Cpr did xenon again in 2019.

Just acquired a project Xenon. The MPU is corroded and toast so it will be replaced with an Alltek. I'm debating whether to just order the Trifecta with the Solenoid and lamp driver boards as well. I know the solenoid board takes care of the short fuse issue (my fuse was blown on the original board, someone wrapped it in foil and reinstalled it lol) and supposedly runs cooler than the original. Also Alltek says the lamp board will take care of ghosting on the LEDs?

Is it worth it to just replace them all or should I try the MPU first and see where it goes?

Also, the rectifier board is original and doesn't look burnt or toasty to me, any reason to replace this one while I'm ordering?

These "naked versions" are quite common in Germany. But we consider these as jokes, not as rare prototypes.

There is also a topless version of Centaur that this eBay seller does not have.

In Germany, nipples are not x-rated, but FSK 12 (similar to PG 13), so nobody cares about this naked versions.

For the older Bally Solid State pins, I always change the rectifier board because Bally used a really under-dimensioned one, and it's always burnt after all these years. But some day Bally changed to a bigger version, those last over time. Since XENON was published after this change and already has the better version, there is no reason to change it as long as it is working.

Using LED with the original lamp driver board will require that you solder a resistor parallel to each and every switched lamp. If you do not, the current will not be high enough to keep the SCR switched on and lead to constant flicker. The Alltek board has these resistors already on board. Anyhow, self-soldering will be the cheaper solution.

Who here has replaced the pop bumper caps in their Xenon? I understand that current replacements from Marco Specialties are a lighter blue than the original, which were a deep, rich blue plastic. Looks like the photo of the caps at Pinball Resource also shows the lighter blue. Can anyone recommend where to buy caps with the original darker blue plastic?

I think your best bet is a wanted add for decent looking originals. Dark blue plastic is pretty much unobtainium for some reason.

All of the reproduction caps I have seen are a lighter blue. I just used the best originals I had. You can always add blue bulbs which helps somewhat.

When using the new Alltek lamp driver, adding resistors isn't necessary. They have eliminated this problem somehow beyond my knowledge. All that has to be done is run a jumper wire from new board to the switched lamp voltage supply bus line which can be picked up on the lamp panel for the score displays. The jumper wire is supplied with the new board.

Sorry I didn't see your earlier post which covered this already

That is a CPR "gold" screened playfield... The yellow screen was replaced with gold.
Someone added the black nipple details...
The big giveaway is CPR never corrected the art to the left special drain arrow and
Bally omitted the two upper right lamp sockets, although they kept the curricular artwork.

My 2009 CPR gold edition has the hologram.

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They just have the resistors on board.

I don't recall mine having it. But then again, I bought mine from HSA a few months after CPR released them. I had an odd ball because the 4 top green inserts were replaced with blue ones on mine. I guess CPR ran out of green. I was made at first but though, eh, it looks kinda cool.

Oh ok, I never understood the need for the jumper wire to the switched lamp power feed though.

The resistors are in parallel to the bulb, but the other end of the bulb is not available on the board.

aaahhhh, got it!

I add resistor strips right to the driver board, easiest and fastest way to get it done aside from Siegecraft adapters.

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Looks great.. thanks for sharing, picked up some a while ago.. but had not gotten around to putting them in. So from this, the common just goes on the controlled lamp circuit like the altek etc? Aside from easy and fast, you also save big $

I have done similar with network resistors on my XENON, some years ago, work's well.
Easier rather than soldering resistors on each bulb !

My playfield is used, so i will use overlay ... Probably printed with nipple option, when winter comes ! Other projects are running.

Yes, just pick up the juice right off the light board. I have done several of these now and it's a great mod which is almost pennies to do. If you are moderately fast can be done in an hour or less.

Done resistors on sockets once, never again.

Anyone know of a nice Xenon available for sale?

A little out of your neck of the woods, but the first one I've seen for sale in a while.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-trade-or-sale-xenon

I’m in the process of chasing some gremlins out of my xenon. Is it possible that anyone here has high resolution pictures of the bottom side of their playfield? I’m primarily interested in seeing the wiring around the side saucer switch area and the bumpers.
Please and thank you and try xenon.

Because the game is so dark, many ops have turned those flashing lamps into just GI lamps

So often you see a bunch of capped off wires in that area.

Trying to iron out the bugs in my Xenon project. Got it mostly going but have a couple items I could use some pointers on.

1. - The background sounds drop out after hitting the pops.

2. - Draining a single ball during multiball ends the ball in play.

Thought i would post up the baffle kit I make for this game. The kit is similar to the others i do as it addresses the areas that suffer from light bleed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/118963

Maybe you have a problem with the switches under the apron?

I'm sad to say that after nearly 30 years of ownership I've left the club, thankfully she went to a good friend who I know will love and treat her right!
Try a tube shot my friends.

Trying to get my barn find Xenon flipping.

It has new boards all around from Altek. Boots up into attract mode but goes immediately into tilt and will not start a game. I have checked all tilt switches and they are not closed.

Go into switch test. Gives me switch 1 stuck closed which is tube exit lane. Check that switch, looks ok. Cut the diode and error goes away (bad diode?). Then it gives me switch 3 stuck closed which is lower side target. Same thing, when I cut the diode leg it then says switch 4 which is upper side target. One more diode cut and I am now getting switch 9 stuck closed. Switch 9 is the right coin slot switch which was removed from the game when I bought it. The two red/white wires I soldered together but I can’t find whatever wire went to that switch originally. Anyone have an idea what wire to look for?

Also, I’m not a switch matrix expert but it looks like switches 1, 3 and 4 are in the same column but then switch 9 is in the row with switch 1 but not 3 or 4. Is this more consistent with a short somewhere else or is it possible this machine has that many bad diodes?

Don't cut diodes, replace them with 1n4004 if they are open or shorted

You can test diodes with your meter