Xenon
Bally, 1980Quoted from mrm_4:If you haven’t already start snipping capacitors in that matrix, change the diodes on the coils and switches, and start looking for solder splashes or loose wires or parts making a ground.
I checked the diodes on all the bumpers. All around 10.4. I’m not opposed to putting in new coils and diodes but I looked it up online and don’t want to order the wrong parts.
Check the diodes on your tilt switches. Inside the cabinet on the left . This picture is from my paragon but it shows where you should be looking for the tilt switches. There is also a slam tilt switch is on the coin door. You will likely need to replace one of these diodes on your tilt switches.
FEBEF68E-CF3C-48F9-8AB6-F49BC9DD8A39 (resized).jpegQuoted from trilogybeer:Check the diodes on your tilt switches. Inside the cabinet on the left . This picture is from my paragon but it shows where you should be looking for the tilt switches. There is also a slam tilt switch is on the coin door. You will likely need to replace one of these diodes on your tilt switches.
[quoted image]
Thank you! I will do this sometime this week. If it helps at all the last thing I did was replace all 44/47 bulbs with LED’s. Some of the bus wire was hard to work with and I had to remove and replace some of the staple. I was careful to replace them and put them back where they were.
Quoted from Kderrick:Ok. Whatever the fuck that means.
The matrix is basically where the wire goes, all the things connected to it.
For example the tilt is on this matrix with the tilt, #2 drop target, right flipper feed lane, and the right pop bumper.
2172F248-B742-4D03-870C-2FABAB60931C (resized).jpeg
They all share the Brown and White wire because of the number 65.
9FAE3B33-C5EC-40F3-ABBC-52C8F1E9B04E (resized).jpeg
The other side of the matrix is the other wire. So all the pop bumpers, the slings and the saucers share the yellow and red wire. Because it’s number 31.
C8DD53D1-1FE4-4A67-8F0C-0B72C1BBEF33 (resized).jpeg
This little icon means a capacitor is supposed to be on the switch.
23F3CBCA-BFF4-46A1-852E-D80348F67B48 (resized).jpeg
This is a capacitor, if you have the original ones on there. Snip them and replace them later. If they are bad they make the game act haunted.
116ABFE0-8EEE-4E75-86FF-687F42F484D0 (resized).jpeg
You have xenon and Star Trek. You should order about 1000 of these diodes.
3C6D3F81-322B-4557-A120-65CB387731BE (resized).jpeg
And this is a solder splash. If this lands on a mech, a coil, a switch, etc it’ll make your game do crazy stuff.FF5B8297-9076-4D49-A2C2-F3BCBB560C38 (resized).jpeg
And when that landed on my hand it reminded me of this:
Quoted from mrm_4:The matrix is basically where the wire goes, all the things connected to it.
For example the tilt is on this matrix with the tilt, #2 drop target, right flipper feed lane, and the right pop bumper.
[quoted image]
They all share the Brown and White wire because of the number 65.
[quoted image]
The other side of the matrix is the other wire. So all the pop bumpers, the slings and the saucers share the yellow and red wire. Because it’s number 31.
[quoted image]
This little icon means a capacitor is supposed to be on the switch.
[quoted image]
This is a capacitor, if you have the original ones on there. Snip them and replace them later. If they are bad they make the game act haunted.
[quoted image]
You have xenon and Star Trek. You should order about 1000 of these diodes.
[quoted image]
And this is a solder splash. If this lands on a mech, a coil, a switch, etc it’ll make your game do crazy stuff.[quoted image]
And when that landed on my hand it reminded me of this:
Thank you for taking the time to explain it to me. Luckily Star Trek is playing fine while I work on Xenon. Helps me blow off steam and bide my time while I wait for parts in the mail.
Quoted from mrm_4:You have xenon and Star Trek. You should order about 1000 of these diodes.
If you work regular on solid state you should keep at least 25 to 50 on hand. Almost without exception when I pick up a pin its needs at least one.
My last pickup, a Data East Star Wars needed five.
I have a ton of diodes on order. Here are some pics. Most coils and switches have a diode and a capacitor on them. Is this a hack job? If I have to correctly solder everything my next post will be a rotisserie and I might as well get the new hardtop. Thank you everyone for the answers and information.
1BAA37AF-526B-46BD-A85A-58CD9BA83750 (resized).jpegA2CC7490-AFDB-4A52-845B-B1A0CE02DAFF (resized).jpegD1C8F7C3-685B-4E5A-8755-2C1AD89DE569 (resized).jpegE0E4A14F-1273-4B55-B3DA-EA636D54F6A1 (resized).jpegE5DC0732-2165-4472-82EE-3EB58B930AE2 (resized).jpegEE254CA0-4D90-423A-9046-7BE867234787 (resized).jpegQuoted from Kderrick:I have a ton of diodes on order. Here are some pics. Most coils and switches have a diode and a capacitor on them. Is this a hack job?
Nope, normal. The caps draw out the signal so the mpu picks them up. Something about the refresh rate of the switch matrix but it's late and cant recall the exact details.
Quoted from gdonovan:Nope, normal. The caps draw out the signal so the mpu picks them up. Something about the refresh rate of the switch matrix but it's late and cant recall the exact details.
The MPU needs to see a switch closure on TWO cycles through the switch matrix for it to be valid. This prevents spurious signals in the matrix from being detected as a switch closure.
Rollover switches are held closed long enough while the ball rolls over them that they will be detected as closed for at least two cycles. I'm not sure about the button rollovers, though. Obviously, drop targets, saucers, outhole and trough switches don't need caps because the switches are held closed for long periods of time, so they don't need caps. But pops, slings and standup targets need caps to extend the time the signal is present so they can be detected by the MPU.
Quoted from dothedoo:This prevents spurious signals in the matrix from being detected as a switch closure.
Except for fast react solenoids (pop bumpers and slingshots) which activate on first single switch closure. This is a reason why we get phantom pop bumper activations from the flippers on Ballys, usually happens to the pop bumper connected on the same switch return line that the outhole switch is on - that signal wire having the longest run in the playfield harness with the flipper wires, so it can pick up flipper current switching noise.
I need help. Having an issue when the tube shot is made it completes rolling over the switch and landing in the kickout from there i am having issues. Ball should kick out or 2nd ball should start, nothing is happening. When I manually press the switch (almost like a second tube shot) ball ejects. I can add video if needed. Thanks for any help.
Quoted from waldo34:I need help. Having an issue when the tube shot is made it completes rolling over the switch and landing in the kickout from there i am having issues. Ball should kick out or 2nd ball should start, nothing is happening. When I manually press the switch (almost like a second tube shot) ball ejects. I can add video if needed. Thanks for any help.
Maybe check your trough switch. It sounds like the machine doesn't know the second ball is in the trough, and is assuming it is on the playfield somewhere.
Quoted from EStroh:Maybe check your trough switch. It sounds like the machine doesn't know the second ball is in the trough, and is assuming it is on the playfield somewhere.
If the angle of the machine is off side to side sometimes the "at rest" position is wrong. I also had to tweak the peak of the trough roll down to get the second ball to move forward.
Corrected the issue, with some minor adjustment. Thanks everyone with the help on this project over the last month.
Quoted from Kderrick:Not specific to Xenon but what would cause the digits to keep changing? Happens on all 4 displays.
[quoted image]
Is the game's high voltage stable?
Bally games need at least +165 voltage to light up.
Quoted from vec-tor:Is the game's high voltage stable?
Bally games need at least +165 voltage to light up.
Voltage is good. The numbers change in different places(for example it will display 365,000 change to 264,000 and back again). I started a game and scored a few points (1,560 change to 1,460 and back). It didn’t happen prior to changing to LED’s. Any advice greatly appreciated.
Quoted from Kderrick:Not specific to Xenon but what would cause the digits to keep changing? Happens on all 4 displays.
[quoted image]
Check the connector on the main display, my guess is a bad pin in the connector.
Quoted from mrm_4:Someone in CA buy this thing!
ebay.com link » Xenon Pinball Machine Not Working Bally 1980
Wow that's an early one. If I wasn't in NJ I would!!
Quoted from Flash71:5 days left and bidding is a $620. Someone is going to get a bargain i imagine.
You can buy it and hate it for 620 lol
Quoted from Flash71:5 days left and bidding is a $620. Someone is going to get a bargain i imagine.
Nah, things will pickup in the last 30 minutes. They almost always do.
Curious what the club members think here... seeing this ebay post made me think how underrated Xenon is for me.
I've owned mine for over a year now, and in that year have played it enough to dial it in how I like it. My machine is a rough players PF.... but it works and looks good from far as they say 
For me, arguably, no.1 Art package of the classic SS era. Also, my favourite sound package of the classic SS era.
Gameplay is where xenon I believe gets a bit of unfair flack. When I first acquired the game, I agreed with the published reviews about a lack of mechs etc., or what people would call scoring exploits... or do this all day long etc.
I am not sure how the setup is of those players, but on mine the shots are very tight, and like all pins many are adjustable.
My spinner shot is tight.. You can still backhand or forhand it, but unless your shot is true, you will miss and hit the post that partially blocks the shot (I know mine does its job as it is bent lol.). multiball is a challenge here because of this.
The tube shot is always going to be fairly open.. but obviously there is some set up to make sure this is never going to get a ball stuck, and a slow but true roller should be able to creep up the ramp and through the switch door. (Much to xenon's relief!).
The MOTA collect here is fine, but I've read that people say shoot this all day long to win.. Not on mine, after reviewing the documentation, the design is for this kick out to hit the right sling on the way out. This SHOULD_ make it a fairly dangerous shot.. not a scoring strategy IMO. I think as mine was originally, when people set a heavy angle on the machine, this will in turn return the ball to the right flipper.. not how it is designed, this must kick to the right sling, and if you put it at a steeper angle, you'll need to adjust this kickout accordingly.
Xenon strategy has to be to achieve multiball and then go for the lit spinner. when you have a bonus, if you didn't hit it by luck, and are not getting the top rollovers, maybe think about shooting the drop and maxing out your 4x.
I would not say it is the best of the classic SS era here.. but the gameplay really is solid, and it has never got old for me, even as I approach what I'd guess to be well over 500 plays... it's a fast and mean game... just curious to me how it does not seem as coveted as some other classic SS.
Xenon was my first machine and I've owned it 25 years or so. Clearly it's on the early 80's SS end and it shows in the game play. The multiball was an afterthought add on due to another game that was coming out with it so it was shoehorned in at the last minute. Game play wise I don't think it stands out versus others of the era but instead it is the entire package that makes it stand out for me. Beautiful art, backglass and infinity lights, and the sound/voices.
Quoted from Flash71:I'm sure it goes for atleast $2000
My guess is way less $900.
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:Also out of curiosity how difficult is it to put new flippers in this game?
I did it in less than 10 minutes, lift table up and loosen bolt on handle pull the flipper up.
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:Hello everyone. I’m hoping to replace the switch and coil that operate the pop bumper closet the saucer up top. Could anyone send me a link to those two replacement parts?
Hi there, best thing to do is check your manual for the part numbers. (If you are unsure about one or the other, post back here)
If you don't have the manual, you can download it from the xenon page on ipdb.org.
Most of the large parts sellers (Marco, pinball life etc), will come up with the part number easily, or they often have their own filters by game name. Xenon should be no problem.
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:Also out of curiosity how difficult is it to put new flippers in this game?
Super easy.
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:Thanks everyone for the help! I figured out the coil but I can’t find the switch. Does anyone know which switch powers the pop bumper on this game? Looking firvthat part.
It's mounted directly under the pop bumper with an L shaped bracket. Complete switch assembly for these are NLA. You may need to find an equivalent or rebuild it. Replace the capacitor while your at it. It's a .050 mfd and hard to find so use a .047 mfd instead.
Quoted from koji:Curious what the club members think here... seeing this ebay post made me think how underrated Xenon is for me.
I've owned mine for over a year now, and in that year have played it enough to dial it in how I like it. My machine is a rough players PF.... but it works and looks good from far as they say
For me, arguably, no.1 Art package of the classic SS era. Also, my favourite sound package of the classic SS era.
Gameplay is where xenon I believe gets a bit of unfair flack. When I first acquired the game, I agreed with the published reviews about a lack of mechs etc., or what people would call scoring exploits... or do this all day long etc.
I am not sure how the setup is of those players, but on mine the shots are very tight, and like all pins many are adjustable.
My spinner shot is tight.. You can still backhand or forhand it, but unless your shot is true, you will miss and hit the post that partially blocks the shot (I know mine does its job as it is bent lol.). multiball is a challenge here because of this.
The tube shot is always going to be fairly open.. but obviously there is some set up to make sure this is never going to get a ball stuck, and a slow but true roller should be able to creep up the ramp and through the switch door. (Much to xenon's relief!).
The MOTA collect here is fine, but I've read that people say shoot this all day long to win.. Not on mine, after reviewing the documentation, the design is for this kick out to hit the right sling on the way out. This SHOULD_ make it a fairly dangerous shot.. not a scoring strategy IMO. I think as mine was originally, when people set a heavy angle on the machine, this will in turn return the ball to the right flipper.. not how it is designed, this must kick to the right sling, and if you put it at a steeper angle, you'll need to adjust this kickout accordingly.
Xenon strategy has to be to achieve multiball and then go for the lit spinner. when you have a bonus, if you didn't hit it by luck, and are not getting the top rollovers, maybe think about shooting the drop and maxing out your 4x.
I would not say it is the best of the classic SS era here.. but the gameplay really is solid, and it has never got old for me, even as I approach what I'd guess to be well over 500 plays... it's a fast and mean game... just curious to me how it does not seem as coveted as some other classic SS.
There’s no doubt it’s a beautiful work of art. The game play holds up for me as it’s easy enough for anyone to play and difficult enough to keep experienced players (myself anyway) entertained.
Quoted from Gnrwarkfc:Thanks everyone for the help! I figured out the coil but I can’t find the switch. Does anyone know which switch powers the pop bumper on this game? Looking firvthat part.
The actual part number is ASW-A110-5. This one is probably the closest match available:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-pop-bumper-switch-sw-11a-37.html
How do YOU think Pin Stadium lights would look on Xenon? Overkill? I put LED’s throughout and it’s still dark near the apron and the ball lock.
This obsession with light on pinballs eludes me. I have never, not once, played a game and thought, man this is too dark. Maybe it's nostalgia, but I would say pinstadiums are WAY overkill on most machines. Especially anything new with LED's in them already. (Mind you, GI and and more lights as lighting effects are not the same thing. I'm always for more lights, as I love great light shows).
Holy Hack! This from a project Xenon I bought in 2019. I'm just getting to it for the restore and pulled the boards. As you may know, CR1,2 and 3 get very hot on the Vocalizer board. I found a broken trace under the pcs at that spot and this loop of diodes. He also swapped c25 with a 1000 mf that should 100mf. The MPU is original and toasty. I found to pry it from the plastic spacers.
P1310287 (resized).JPGP1310288 (resized).JPGQuoted from Kderrick:How do YOU think Pin Stadium lights would look on Xenon? Overkill? I put LED’s throughout and it’s still dark near the apron and the ball lock.
I put a trough light strip in and 2 spot lights above the slings and it made a great improvement.
Quoted from Kderrick:How do YOU think Pin Stadium lights would look on Xenon? Overkill? I put LED’s throughout and it’s still dark near the apron and the ball lock.
I converted the flashing lamps on the left side by the standup targets to GI, added LED strips under the ramp and under the lower left arch plastic, and removed the ball guide just above the drop targets and replaced it with posts and rubber. The lamp that was blocked by the ball guide now lights that area of the playfield.
Quoted from Kderrick:How do YOU think Pin Stadium lights would look on Xenon? Overkill? I put LED’s throughout and it’s still dark near the apron and the ball lock.
It's supposed to be dark.
You think a classy chick like Xe is going to have sex in a Walmart?
Quoted from vid1900:It's supposed to be dark.
You think a classy chick like Xe is going to have sex in a Walmart?
Good one @vid1900! LOL.
Quoted from dothedoo:I converted the flashing lamps on the left side by the standup targets to GI, added LED strips under the ramp and under the lower left arch plastic, and removed the ball guide just above the drop targets and replaced it with posts and rubber. The lamp that was blocked by the ball guide now lights that area of the playfield.
I think pin stadium lights would be overkill but have toyed with the idea of extra GI lights on left and around roll over area.
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