Back in the club!! This one’s gonna need some love. Guy disassembled to restore, but didn't get back to it so some parts in boxes.

Good news...all boards were gone over and repaired by Clive, still sealed in the shipping box.

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nice score, I'll be doing a full resto on one this year.

I see you're in NJ. I'll cruise down and we can restore these together.

I'm following mrm_4 and his Xenon thread...lots of good stuff and pointers even early on. This PF looks pretty nice...might go touch up and clearcoat to preserve the original. Of course, there's still some mylar up top that has to be removed first...and probably a pound or two of flour/isopropyl work.

You gonna do a thread on yours? If you do it anything like your other games I’ll probably just stop my project and watch yours hahaha

Before and after... almost done with mine!

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Those are some white posts holding that arch up top! What’s the secret man???

uhhh... paint ... I'm ashamed to say. They were so yellowed that I just couldn't bear to put them back in that way

Lol that’s awesome. I was thinking about painting all my spools and not telling anyone, now I don’t feel so bad.

Not sure yet. I have enough threads lingering with games I’m restoring, plus Halloween, that I have to get back to. Xenon might have to wait a little while.

And I’m not sure about all that. From your thread, your skills look pretty damn good to me.

Finally set this up to assess... it’s going to need a lot of love. Including removing this brace/piece of wood they mounted to the back.

And I don’t think he got any of the glue off from any of the mylar he pulled off. PF is actually sticky.
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Have you seen / tried the flour and goo-gone technique for removing mylar glue? I've pulled mylar off of several machines (WW, F14, HS, Dr Dude) but the glue on my Xenon was the worst!

Haven’t tried flour plus Goo Gone. Usually use flour and isopropyl. And I’ve done 8 or 9 games with that mix.

I have found that Usually use flour and isopropyl beats Goo Gone. At least in my experience.

Yes you know me I bought your spy hunter. I moved further south in NJ since then.

I know Rich!!! My fault. I thought my post said “I see you’re still in NJ.” I was tired and dictatyping..it missed a word.

I remember you told me you were moving, but I forgot you were staying in the state.

pm sent

Thanks for the cap pyrotech !!!

That's the last piece I needed for my restoration!

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Can someone help me out with a picture and how to install the LED strip, please. It was missing and clearly in my rebuild it's sitting too low on top of the pop bumper.

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Also what are people doing for LEDs in the back box?

Nj cy
You are missing the little gray spacers that go on top of the spool posts

Somebody can measure them for you, I'm guessing 1/2"

Thanks Vid, I hit the parts drawer and I think I got it.

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Anyone have feedback for how to do the LEDs behind the backglass? I loked at the gallery photos and didn't see a layout posted.

When I bought my last Xenon, I tried a lot of blue and cool white first. Even blue in the infinity sockets. Actually thought it looked kind of cool, but it was a bit much. Blue totally drowned out the other colors.

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So, I switched it to sunlight in the BB art, and left incans for the infinity lights. Cool white in the center circles runners. I think that kept it more original, and brought out the various colors nicely. Brighter, more crisp and pleasantly subtle.

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You are missing two grey spacers... One at each end.

Any one purchase the comet led adapter board? Is it needed for leds?

I used clear Ice Blue for the lights around the boarder of the backglass. I thought the standard blue was "too blue" but I wanted to add a little color here. I get that this is personal preference and not for everyone, but here's what it looks like FYI.

Awesome thanks for the different led looks.

You can solder a resistor to 85% of the lamp sockets

Or get adapter boards

Or get a whole new lamp driver board

Or get LEDs that have resistors in them already

The "after" looks much better to me, I don't understand the need to "blue out" Xenons with LEDs, it has enough blue in it already.

honestly there are more greens and teal in this game than Blue. Seems nobody really sees that.

I think I tried a few greens for accents with mostly sunlight GI, but it didn’t look right.

I just wanted to try it initially and see how it looked...then I went nuts with happy hands. Hence the change to sunlight in subsequent pics.

I plan to do my current machine the same way. Sunlight LED’s are brighter than warm LED’s and brighten up the PF, and still give a classic / subtle look.

I just finished restoring my Superman a few months ago with the same.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-with-comet-leds-and-custom-upgrades#post-2326289

Picked up my Xenon last week and going to do a hardtop. Looking forward to the updates and lighting mods. I’m in

Need some more help. Finally made it to the restore point of powering it on. Fuse on the underside of the playfield is blowing. Looks like the kick out hole solenoid engages when powered on but does not disengage. Replace the coil with a brand new one from Marco. Check the resistors on the board they all appear to be within range. The switch is also open. Any thoughts on what the check next? Thanks.

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Unplug the connector to the output of the solenoid voltage regulator.
You most likely have a bad transistor.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

Ended up replacing the board, all my solenoids seem to be working now. However I'm having a flipper issue, after the rebuild. I'll get a video posted but essentially push the left flipper button the left flipper goes up and stays up, push the right flipper button left flipper goes down right flipper goes up. That's a new one I haven't seen it before. when in the up position there's little resistance to pushing it back down.

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Make either flipper stick, then turn off power

Does it still stick?

They stay up with the power off. I'll have to take them back apart I assume there's some reason they're sticking.

Those linear flippers are prone to sticking, but those look brand new.

Are the coil stops in squarely?

Did someone over tighten the bushings, causing them to become cracked?

Flip the coils around so the diodes are not next to the coil stops while you have them apart

Thanks for the tips on the flippers. I think Terry gave me the wrong springs I put the original springs on there and they're working great now. I'll take the tip and flip the coils around. of course I also loosened and retightened everything so I may have had something pinched.

Only one issue remains I have all the sounds for the game however during play there's no background music. Is that correct that there is supposed to be background music during play?

Finally the Hard Top is awesome.

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The background sounds are determined by the settings accessed through the programming button (back of coin door). I don't recall which setting I had to change on mine to get it to work, but I had the same issue. I'm sure someone can chime in here if you can't find it in the manual.

There should be background "music", kind of an electronic banjo 4 note song

Your welcome, that restoration looks great.

The best method I've found when rebuilding flippers is to loosen the coil stop a little bit and also loosen the bracket at the other end of the coil a little bit. Push the plunger in against the coil stop and while holding the plunger in tighten the coil stop. Keep holding it in and tighten the other bracket while also pressing the bracket squarely against the coil.

Holding the plunger in squares it up with the coil stop and aligns the coil along the line of motion of the plunger. Otherwise, with the flipper relaxed the plunger is only partially in the coil sleeve. Either end of the coil could be misaligned slightly when tightened down. It may work fine at first, but could cause binding as it heats up.

I’ve been playing pinball my whole life (45 now) and just got my first game (Xenon) last week. I am such a noob I’m just going to hang back and try to absorb info. My machine is in working condition but no play field lights come on. I have an Alltelk Ultimate Lamp driver board on the way to see what that does, as well as new rubbers and drop targets. My goal right now is to get the game in playing condition. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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Congratulations!. Looks like your GI (General Illumination) is working... so I presume you mean the controlled lamps? i.e., all the lights for the playfield scoring, bonus etc?

Swapping a board in is a quick way to isolate issues, but feel free to post questions, and I'm sure there are many who can help so far as things to check. In your case for example, if there is a problem with the connector or voltage to the lamp driver, the altek will not fix it.. (It will help to isolate if the problem is on the lamp board or not), but there are other reasons that this may not be working. These shotgun pinball repairs can get costly very quickly.

I guess the first question is are you comfortable using a multimeter, checking voltages and so forth?

Please help with bus installation in new CPR playfield

I am in the process of doing my 1st official changeover. I have been getting everything prepped and labeled, and am getting ready to remove the harness from the old PF and put it in the dishwasher as per Vid.

I am not sure if I should install all of my bus wires ( I have a Unicatch USC 71 stapler, I love it!) before I lay the harness and screw in the lamps, or do I do this after I install the harness? I was thinking before, this might be better. Any guidance / advice would be appreciated. Thanks, mk

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Did you check fuse F1 on your power supply board?

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