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(Topic ID: 174124)

Xenon club...Members Only~Try Xeeeenon


By Yesh23

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 797 posts
  • 125 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 minutes ago by mrm_4
  • Topic is favorited by 42 Pinsiders

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There are 797 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 16.
#751 8 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Since were up in this area of the playfield. What’s the fix here?
Can’t win. Get it to allow the ball to roll back but then it’s not enough to engage the switch.
[quoted image]

Man somebody really hacked this poor game. The trip wire for the micro switch needs to be adjusted, but you can do that after the hardtop install. Marco used to carry new trip wires, you may need one and start over.

Starting at left behind the down ramp. That screw hole is correct but the post is wrong. Save the spool post for the tube left side clamp. The post there should be a 1.5 inch plastic spacer. It looks like your lamp strip is broken? A good replacement is sold here from igo4rams. You are missing the fiber washers and the #6 flat washers. I will try to post pics of the hardware later. The stud and cap nut are incorrect. It should be a phillips head post screw, flat washer and 2 fiber washers, one on each side of the lamp strip mounting holes.

Now to the right. The metal post must go. It appears they didn't have the correct rubber and just threw that in then and added another rubber. Refer to pinflips post #725. The holes he circled in yellow are correct. On yours there's an empty screw hole, that's also not correct. The right side lamp strip mounting hole should be near that added metal post, it may even be the hole that they screwed the metal post into, hard to tell from pic.

So my assumption is this. They added metal post to add extra rubber and then moved the lamp strip to a new hole where there is no screw now.

Does the hardtop have any holes already cut out for this area?

#752 8 days ago

These may help. From my swap from 2009.

File165 (resized).jpgFile167 (resized).jpgFile242 (resized).jpgFile276 (resized).jpgFile277 (resized).jpgFile352 (resized).jpg
#753 8 days ago
File161 (resized).jpgFile586 (resized).jpgFile587 (resized).jpgFile590 (resized).jpgFile591 (resized).jpgFile592 (resized).jpg
#754 8 days ago

After looking at this pic, I realize I was wrong about the 1.5 inch spacer under the lamp strip. It appears that it should be a spool spacer stacked with a 3/8 or 1/2 inch spacer.

File585 (resized).jpg
#755 8 days ago

For those that don't know, the red post you see by the left thumper is Greg Kmiec's signature hidden post.

#756 8 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ok that’s a major help!
I got fed up with this hodgepodge of screws. I got all machine screws of several lengths and got an assortment of spacers to figure this out. Along with a few different sizes of neoprene washers. Added a bunch of t-nuts under the playfield and got this baby solid. Still need to get 2 new cable straps for the tube.

I’m also going to drill out the 2 holes for the missing GI on the right of the arch.

2BE2AB12-74D3-4A5A-90BE-B1AE786AA6D9 (resized).jpeg446716CD-27FD-41E2-9AF8-50594E7592BC (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg83EB8565-61C1-48B0-9069-87F4C3274D9E (resized).jpeg
#757 8 days ago

Calipers out things are getting serious lol. Your 3 pic the tube clamp should be mounted on reverse side of tube. Where it is now should be a mini post.

#758 8 days ago

I have a bunch of those clamps if you need a pair. They are new. Just 1 1/2 inch wire harness clamps.

#759 8 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have a bunch of those clamps if you need a pair. They are new. Just 1 1/2 inch wire harness clamps.

Both of these are supposed to be mini posts but they needed replaced. Got them coming from PBR next week. Although I might leave a spool in between the rubber to match the other side.
If you’re interested in selling those clamps PM me I’ll shoot some money your way!

1DE88287-4F94-4374-ABE5-34E11EAD8452 (resized).jpeg
#760 8 days ago

Oh ok. I think they used a mini post there because it looks nice than the spool. Your game your choice.
The clamps are cheap. Just pm me your address.and I'll throw them in the mail.

#761 8 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Almost done with my hard top installation. I'm so glad I found some extended button rollovers to go along with the thicker playfield (due to the hard top).
... nice that someone thought of that.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/CWVRYK2NF/extended-c-587-6-bally-pinball-rollover-button?etId=196936247&utm_source=automated-contact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=payment-received&utm_content=7&option=161142571
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for posting that! I am considering doing a Hard Top for my Xenon, so ordering them was a no brainer.

Of course, if anyone has an extra CPR that they would like to sell, I would like to chat with them!

#762 8 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Since were up in this area of the playfield. What’s the fix here?
Can’t win. Get it to allow the ball to roll back but then it’s not enough to engage the switch.
[quoted image]

I shaped the wire to rest along the wall... the ball has to drop into the tube to release.
If it rolls back, no problem no fuss.

#763 8 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Almost done with my hard top installation. I'm so glad I found some extended button rollovers to go along with the thicker playfield (due to the hard top).
... nice that someone thought of that.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/CWVRYK2NF/extended-c-587-6-bally-pinball-rollover-button?etId=196936247&utm_source=automated-contact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=payment-received&utm_content=7&option=161142571
[quoted image][quoted image]

these came about another pinsider needing a solution for his hard top - he was very happy with the result.

here is a link to some of my repro parts
https://swinks.com.au/ss-parts

extended roll overs 2 (resized).jpeg
#764 7 days ago

I really don’t like the look under the tube. The exposed posts and rubbers seem like the game is under cooked.
This isn’t 100% but you guys get where I’m going here.
Heres the original layout
638E1B4A-E5E8-4FF4-AD0F-FA91C3F7EA98 (resized).jpeg
took a stab at creating a shape for the plastic
B68591AA-0C24-4383-A03F-C754C45E2D33 (resized).jpeg
49BDE7F9-1C32-449C-B831-E3BFF83E9DC1 (resized).jpeg
Did some scanning and editing
3FACE619-C484-45B7-8081-C07301DB21F9 (resized).jpeg
Something like this
513CC75D-71B0-43D0-A0DD-BF0A1D804D2F (resized).jpeg9FA30B65-31FD-4BB1-A274-2F4853D34360 (resized).jpeg86867B30-DE55-4E36-A49C-2D138E53D8EC (resized).jpeg
I'll probably add some more cloud shapes by the lower post to match the other side. With a light underneath I think itll look alright
67E5E671-C9C6-47FA-8F1A-0AD7357B362F (resized).jpeg584F200C-7A8A-46CD-B2FF-F2D37E8F3939 (resized).jpeg
If anyone already made something like this in the last 40 years please let me know. I don’t want to reinvent the wheel.
Once I dial in the shape and the art work I’ll use waterslides and consider an approach to lighting.

31A1D122-1CD2-488C-AE44-F9EDF1AC3784 (resized).jpeg
#765 7 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I really don’t like the look under the tube. The exposed posts and rubbers seem like the game is under cooked.
This isn’t 100% but you guys get where I’m going here.
Heres the original layout
[quoted image]
took a stab at creating a shape for the plastic
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Did some scanning and editing
[quoted image]
Something like this
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'll probably add some more cloud shapes by the lower post to match the other side. With a light underneath I think itll look alright
[quoted image][quoted image]
If anyone already made something like this in the last 40 years please let me know. I don’t want to reinvent the wheel.
Once I dial in the shape and the art work I’ll use waterslides and consider an approach to lighting. [quoted image]

That's clever, but I would think a solid piece from the top of that thumper, all the way down? And how did you make/apply the artwork?

#766 7 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I really don’t like the look under the tube. The exposed posts and rubbers seem like the game is under cooked.
This isn’t 100% but you guys get where I’m going here.
Heres the original layout
[quoted image]
took a stab at creating a shape for the plastic
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Did some scanning and editing
[quoted image]
Something like this
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I'll probably add some more cloud shapes by the lower post to match the other side. With a light underneath I think itll look alright
[quoted image][quoted image]
If anyone already made something like this in the last 40 years please let me know. I don’t want to reinvent the wheel.
Once I dial in the shape and the art work I’ll use waterslides and consider an approach to lighting. [quoted image]

If you go over to the internet pinball database they show a picture of early plastics and there is a piece for the area you are working in. Consensus was it was left out for money reasons.

#768 7 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That's clever, but I would think a solid piece from the top of that thumper, all the way down? And how did you make/apply the artwork?

I’ll probably adjust it to be one piece. Still tinkering. It’s just printed on photo paper and not attached.

Quoted from gdonovan:

If you go over to the internet pinball database they show a picture of early plastics and there is a piece for the area you are working in. Consensus was it was left out for money reasons.

I thought that extra piece was for the back behind the ramp (top right) where the 2 light holes were supposed to be?

#769 7 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

If you go over to the internet pinball database they show a picture of early plastics and there is a piece for the area you are working in. Consensus was it was left out for money reasons.

The piece missing goes to the top right under the metal cover.
The part was more obstructive to implement.

#770 7 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The piece missing goes to the top right under the metal cover.
The part was more obstructive to implement.

Interesting, it looks like it would fit in the area of discussion.

Why would they even make a piece that would be covered by the metal cover anyway?

#771 7 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Interesting, it looks like it would fit in the area of discussion.

It would, if you removed the metal switch covers.

Quoted from gdonovan:

Why would they even make a piece that would be covered by the metal cover anyway?

I can only think that it was part of the development of the game...
The out hole system went through changes also.
It is all part of the game manufacturing life cycle...

#772 7 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

It would, if you removed the metal switch covers.

I can only think that it was part of the development of the game...
The out hole system went through changes also.
It is all part of the game manufacturing life cycle...

I made a metal switch cover for mine, you can't see that area from the players position with or without the cover. I ended up taking the cover back off as it blocked the 4th drop switch from eyesight.

#773 7 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

That's clever, but I would think a solid piece from the top of that thumper, all the way down?

Something like this?

B5E65714-DC4D-4981-937F-F160F84F311A (resized).jpeg
#774 4 days ago

Anyone have an extra original cap I can buy to replace this one?

I bought a new set from Marco but I think I like the original blue better.

image (resized).jpg
#775 4 days ago

I have one. PM me.

#776 4 days ago

I have a couple of broken parts that I haven't been able to find anywhere- one is the bottom left ball guide wire that separates the inlane from the outline, and the other is the metal post to the left of the lock. I'm sure it's possible to make them yourself, but I don't have the tools or the skills to do it. Anybody know where I might be able to find them?

#777 4 days ago
Quoted from MrFancy:

I have a couple of broken parts that I haven't been able to find anywhere- one is the bottom left ball guide wire that separates the inlane from the outline,

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-re-populating-playfields#post-4526968

Quoted from MrFancy:

and the other is the metal post to the left of the lock.

The spring one or the disc one?

#778 4 days ago

Thanks, that's exactly what the problem with the lane guide is, the end is broken off. It will sit in place and play fine when I put in, but after around 20 games or so it pops out. I don't have the tools to cut my own, but now that I know exactly what to do I'm sure I can find a friend who can help once the pandemic is over (EDIT: although I guess I would just have to order that $7 wire bending thing from Marco's, and then all I really need is to borrow some big wire cutters from someone).

The picture shows the part by the lock I meant. It's also mostly functional, but the ball will get stuck on the wire against the side of the machine if the game isn't levelled at a certain angle.
IMG_2698 (resized).jpg

#779 4 days ago

My jet bumper was loose on the right side so I tighten the screws up, now it not firing. I replace the coil about 4 months ago it hums when I do the test on coil but does not make that pop sound. Any ideas. Thanks

#780 4 days ago
Quoted from pyrotech:

My jet bumper was loose on the right side so I tighten the screws up, now it not firing. I replace the coil about 4 months ago it hums when I do the test on coil but does not make that pop sound. Any ideas. Thanks

Is the pop bumper moving freely by hand?

#781 4 days ago

Yes it does move by hand.

#782 4 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Anyone have an extra original cap I can buy to replace this one?
I bought a new set from Marco but I think I like the original blue better.
[quoted image]

I also have a extra one, just pm your info and I can send it.

#783 4 days ago
Quoted from pyrotech:

I also have a extra one, just pm your info and I can send it.

Thanks but jj44114 got me squared away, I’m good with the caps now!

#784 4 days ago
Quoted from MrFancy:

The picture shows the part by the lock I meant. It's also mostly functional, but the ball will get stuck on the wire against the side of the machine if the game isn't levelled at a certain angle.

Try a plastic skinny post without the rubber ring on it.

If it takes the energy from the ball well enough, then just trim and install it.

#785 4 days ago
Quoted from MrFancy:

although I guess I would just have to order that $7 wire bending thing from Marco's, and then all I really need is to borrow some big wire cutters from someone).

You could buy linesmans pliers from HF $5, or the HF small bolt cutters $6, or dremel with cut off wheel, or......

#786 3 days ago
Quoted from vid1900:

You could buy linesmans pliers from HF $5, or the HF small bolt cutters $6, or dremel with cut off wheel, or......

Dremel with cutoff wheel works very well.

#787 2 days ago

I too am looking for one pop bumper cap. If someone has an extra I am interested. Thanks

#788 2 days ago

Trying to solve a mini mystery with lighting.
I have these 2 WHT-GRN that lead to the light socket behind the yellow stand up target.
If I trace the 2 wires, 1 goes to the back box but the other is severed right behind the drop targets.
I’m looking at the tech sheet and it says it’s supposed to go to the “Door frame top & right 3 and 4”
What the hell is that???
Can someone post a pic of where this wire comes out of the harness and where it attaches? I imagine it’s somewhere on the left between the flippers and kick out.
Thanks!
88708BA8-6FE2-480C-97CB-E403A77562C9 (resized).jpeg9F854E01-9DB1-4304-B326-AC7D80CD3C5C (resized).jpeg

One goes to the right. The other to the left but it’s cut.

2FFDE83F-9621-4A50-B785-902ABB4E33DC (resized).jpeg
#789 2 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Trying to solve a mini mystery with lighting.
I have these 2 WHT-GRN that lead to the light socket behind the yellow stand up target.
If I trace the 2 wires, 1 goes to the back box but the other is severed right behind the drop targets.
I’m looking at the tech sheet and it says it’s supposed to go to the “Door frame top & right 3 and 4”
What the hell is that???
Can someone post a pic of where this wire comes out of the harness and where it attaches? I imagine it’s somewhere on the left between the flippers and kick out.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]
One goes to the right. The other to the left but it’s cut.
[quoted image]

( WHT-GRN )
1) End-of Tube-Lane.
2) Coin #3 [ not part of playfield ]
3) #4 top button.
4) Shooter lane.
5) Left side saucer.
-----------------------------------------
LAMP
AUX board
( WHT-GRN )
Side saucer [ single wire to two lamps? ] Q5
4 top & right { back box fx } Q24

#790 2 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

( WHT-GRN )
1) End-of Tube-Lane.
2) Coin #3 [ not part of playfield ]
3) #4 top button.
4) Shooter lane.
5) Left side saucer.

I’ve traced all of those to switches
There is another route for just lighting

I really need a pic of the light sockets to see where they are.

I have this one accounted for.

43212B13-A1DB-47AA-A676-54A6E242FD5E (resized).jpeg

I need to see what these 2 areD30AE79A-AC08-4A11-AFCE-98F287032891 (resized).jpeg

I wonder if those are the infinity lights and all the GI on the PF is just coming off plug A9J2-9

#791 2 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

---------------------------------------
LAMP
AUX board
( WHT-GRN )
Side saucer [ single wire to two lamps? ] Q5
4 top & right { back box fx } Q24

I see you added this after my response

Yeah I’m understanding the back box has the Wht-grn also

So I guess there are GI sockets on the PF that have been jumpered or hacked from other sockets to make up with this.

I’ll wait for a pic if anyone out there has the hood up anytime soon.

#792 2 days ago

In the middle of my hardtop install. Will I need the Extended Bally Pinball Rollover Buttons or will the originals still work?

#793 2 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

So I guess there are GI sockets on the PF that have been jumpered or hacked from other sockets to make up with this.

Yes, the lamp circled below is meant to be a feature lamp that's supposed to be piggy backed off that white-green wire from memory.

Both those lamps are normally off which makes that side of the playfield dark. They flash on when the ball enters the tube or exits the saucer - can't remember.
It should really have been implemented the other way so that those two lamps are normally on and flash off instead.

Someone's repurposed that lamp as G.I for some permanent lighting.

Xenon_LeftSaucerLamps.jpg

#794 2 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, the lamp circled below is meant to be a feature lamp that's supposed to be piggy backed off that white-green wire from memory.
Both those lamps are normally off which makes that side of the playfield dark. They flash on when the ball enters the tube or exits the saucer - can't remember.
It should really have been implemented the other way so that those two lamps are normally on and flash off instead.
Someone's repurposed that lamp as G.I for some permanent lighting.
[quoted image]

Awesome that makes sense! Before I tore it down I noticed that light was always on but I saw someone’s flashing during a video of game play. So I figured a transistor was bad and stuck on.
Thanks quench

#795 2 days ago
Quoted from waldo34:

In the middle of my hardtop install. Will I need the Extended Bally Pinball Rollover Buttons or will the originals still work?

I needed to remove my rollover buttons so I could "trim out" the holes in the hardtop - because the holes in the hardtop were not sufficient (size, location). I ended up breaking all 4 of the original buttons during the removal process, so ordering the longer ones were a no-brainer since they needed to be replaced anyway.

#796 18 hours ago
Quoted from waldo34:

I too am looking for one pop bumper cap. If someone has an extra I am interested. Thanks

I have one. Free if you want to pick up.

#797 11 minutes ago

I’m selling a set of plastics and a set of repo pop bumper caps if anyone is in need.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-plastics-
C4045239-EED3-438C-8096-477FDE20BCCD (resized).jpeg

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-repo-pop-bumper-caps

EC044377-E26C-4E9D-922C-F5077661CDB3 (resized).jpeg

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