Can you send a photo of your leg color? . I'm curious now.. maybe there is some factory variation. I'm pretty sure mine have not been repainted.

It's a dark charcoal color, I'll try

Thanks I see now and agree.. I stand corrected and sit in the corner for shame :/

I took a look at the legs on Elektra and started to see some finish flaking off my Xenon legs, so it does appear to be a dark grey underneath for sure.

(The leg currently on Elektra is correct I believe, the leg on the outside has been repainted with black, which helps to show that the original leg is not quite black as others have stated.)

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Nah, all cool bro. After being out in the field for 40 years.. stuff gets swapped around and monkeyed something fierce.

Picture of mine right after it came home and I was going through it.

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Thanks everyone for the confirmation that the legs on mine are not original, or the right size. I'll need to order a new set.

May I suggest these?

https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-gray-legs-set-of-4.html

Thanks for the link! those look like the right ones for sure.

Please help or advise if you can.

I have a Xenon #9810 that had an overlay installed by the previous owner. I am going to do a PF swap. I have to choose between a new in box CPR Gold replacement, or an NOS playfield that is showing signs of lacquer crazing and has some scratches and paint damage (see pics).

In any case, I would have the NOS playfield professionally restored / repaired and then clear coated. Who would you suggest that I send the NOS playfield to for paint repair and clear coating?

I will be doing the PF Swap, and I'm currently making a PF rotisserie from a miter saw stand

Which one (NOS or CPR playfield) should go in my machine? I realize there may be no right or wrong answer. I just would like to hear what others think, especially from those that might have done some swaps using both NOS and CPR playfields.

Thanks in advance, mk

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If the price is the same, then I'd go NOS for sure.. I mean, it's original, the color and cut and placement is spec by definition. The real thing.

In addition, you can get exactly the kind of finish and clear you want.

Sorry, I don't have any recommendations on who to do the work in the east.. but would recommend looking local, as it seems every region has some great people doing this type of work.. just need to find them, and be patient with their timelines.

Nos since you are clearing it.

Ditto for me. N.O.S. has more detail than the reproduction.

I'd default to saying NOS but it's going to cost you $$$ to get it professionally touched up and cleared sot the question of "how much do you want to spend" is an important one. Ron Kruzman and Neo Skywalker are the two that I know of that still do this service, kruzman has a thread that he updates fairly regularly on his status, project backlogs and process. When was that CPR Gold made, that may make a difference in the decision as well.

Thanks for the responses. I do own both the CPR and the NOS Xenon PF. The CPR Gold Xenon is the most recent run. The NOS Xenon was stored in the rafters of a warehouse for over 20 years, and was not properly wrapped. This is where the scratches came from.

I was thinking initially to just use the CPR Gold, as it is already cleared, but almost everyone is telling me to use the NOS after it is cleared and restored.

I'm anything but an expert on this but what I've heard it the NOS ones will take a lot of work including replacing some of the inserts that will have crazed and / or cracked over time. If it wasn't stored in a climate controlled atmosphere I can only imagine it would be even more so in need of that kind of work so be prepared for a sticker shock to have it professionally restored and cleared.

Starting to tune my Xenon up, I'm having trouble getting the lower kickout to hit the right sling shot. I was wondering if others have this issue.

I'm running a pretty good angle, I've adjusted the fins to have the ball kick in the correct direction, but it just doesn't seem to have enough power to make it to the middle of the right sling; rather it will often just go to the right flipper.

I've cleaned the mech well, and the coil has good power. I was wondering if anyone had encountered this with a steep PF angle or solved it? (beefier coil? remove some windings?, adjusted mech?).

Thank you-

-Koji

Just wondering why this would be? I have a CPR gold from the most recent run, is it considered better or worse than a previous run, and why? Differences in the clearcoat, printing, or wood?

Also, looking for a working Xenon with a nice cab and bg but a beat pf to do a swap, if anyone's planning to leave the club.

I bought a CPR "gold" and they sent me a not so "gold" playfield.
[ I would refer to it as a "Lead""Pb" grade ]
I ordered a second one... and it came in better condition.

I've painted dozens of sets of legs and the closest currently available IMO is Rust-Oleum 244228 metallic charcoal. My local home centers don't stock it but can be had from Amazon.

Thanks, yeah, same as Elektra... It's a pretty nice touch.

I have a NOS cleared in my mine. Note that NOS Xenon PF came in couple variations. Some have different artwork on the outlanes that the OE versions. Those need a 2nd hole drilled under the slingshot plastic because they only came with one light hole. Also NOS PF's as previously stated usually have flaws. They weren't installed in a game for a reason, usually cosmetic flaws.

Having swapped several NOS and CPR PF's I would go with an NOS myself, dimpling is usually more accurate. However CPR has been getting game used PF's to correct dimple errors, I shipped them a few.

Record Store Day releases for September 26, 2020 include the "A Life in Waves" album by Suzanne Ciani. It's billed as a career retrospective, and it has some of her commercial work, but no Xenon sounds.
.................David Marston

I watched the YouTube vid with her on Letterman and she didn't no any xenon sounds then either. Maybe they are copywrited?

Just joined the club (again...long story) and got a pretty good machine. However, the playfield is roached, so I need to look for a new one.

Has anyone had good luck with the Hard Tops? Or if you are willing, perhaps you bought a hard top and just went with the CPR fields and would like to sell the hard top?

Thank you.

And yes, someone modded the machine with Christmas lights for the tube. I guess I need to also post this in the "hacks" thread...

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I've had my Xenon for about a year and a half now. It is in need of a playfield swap, which I was able to get my hands on a cpr playfield. One part that was missing from the playfield was the tube and the light strip. Also I am missing the standoffs that support them.

From what I can tell the standoffs that hold up the light tube are Bally pt. no. 03-8371 C-942 White spool post. Equivalent # 03-8371, which is a height of 1-1/8". (Thank you vec-tor for the clarification).

If someone can verify this, that would be great. The pictures below show the three spots in question...
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I have a project xenon myself and I also did 2 xenon PF swaps on other games I had in the past. Now I can see that mine was also hacked but the tube and lamp strip are there.

Let's start w the lamp strip. So yes the holes you circled are correct. But it doesn't use a spool spacer there or at the other end, if you used a spool there, then the strip would be too low. It should be a grey plastic spacer, similar to the one under the ramp only longer, approx 1 and 5/8 of an inch. With the lamp strip it also has a fiber washer on the top and bottom of the pcb to prevent cracking. Under the screw head is a #6 flat washer. My lamp strip spacer have been swapped by somebody. They actually used a spacers on each side so I can't say for certain that the height is correct but it looked close to me and there was the correct amount of screw thread left to install. And the screws look original to me.

Ok, the tube. The right side clamp shares the same hole as the lamp strip. You have the left side correct. So the tube will rest on the 2 screw heads holding the 2 spool spacers by the right ramp exit. The point on the ramp exit should rest on the bottom opening of the tube. the left end will rest on the metal bar by the down ramp. It's held down with a 1 1/2 inch cable clamp and the spool spacer. I'm sure someone will post pics for you, my game isn't fit right now.

Spacer similar to this: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-6047-17

Bally No. C-942 White spool post. Equivalent # 03-8371.
My Xenon has three posts.
1) Two posts have "C" clamps attached.
2) Two posts, one on each end, have a grey spacer added to extend height for pcb lamp FX.
3) Lovef2k has more info on setup.
4) Missing from your picture is the ball deflector on the upper left side.
-- You have the two truss screws, but no metal deflector bracket.
-- Or the bracket is located higher up and not shown.

I've noticed that and is something I do not have. Does the ball frequently jump there and land on the plastic? I was hoping I could get away without trying to locate the bracket.

So to clarify: the grey plastic spacers 1-5/8" for the right and middle holes. The left hole uses the white spool.

I think the grey spacers are about ½" long or less.

a couple of questions, one easy one not.
first, is there a dipswitch setting that allows Xenon to be set to free play? I couldn't find one in the manual but maybe someone has another trick.

second, the guy I bought my machine from hacked the coin door up pretty badly. he removed the coin mechs and wired the coin return button to give credits. well, something came loose or the relay failed so now I just have to touch 2 wires together to add credit! Is there instruction somewhere about how to re-wire a coin mech properly?
thanks.

Asuming you are using the original mpu board , you need a new EPROM chip that will never allow the credits to fall below 01

TBH, adding credits is one of my favourite things to do to Xenon

Answer: No
Bally Pinballs are designed to be on location making money,
and not a free amusement.
As mentioned above post #731 by @vid1900.

I just have mine set to award 2 credits when 100,000 is exceeded and set maximum credits to 30.

Yup.

OK thanks. that's a great idea. will do it.

If you can solder and your harness is in bad shape you can buy a new one from third coast pinball here on PS.

I’m in the club
Will be doing a restore on this baby! Can’t wait to start this project!

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Welcome to the club. Love my Xenon!

Congrats, Xenon was my second pin and first restore. That was over 10 years ago and I'm gearing up to do another one.

In posts 725-729 a few of you guys talked about the spacers that are for the tube and the light strip. Did any find a replacement? Im in the same boat here and need them.

In post 726 at the bottom I posted a link for the spacer you need, of course you need 2 of them. Read the second paragraph to see what else goes with the lamp strip.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-tube-and-light-strip-picture-request#post-5971042

From pictures that I’ve seen of different Xenons I think it’s supposed to be the spools…

Ok I saw that but wasn’t sure if that was determined the fix because you said “similar to” with the link. Thanks!
I just need the 2 for the lamp strip ends.

I have a bunch of spools from otter projects I tried to use and the light strip was too low, was bending on the pop bumper. They would definitely need another spacer on top of them to help lift it a little more.

Yes you 2 of these 1.5 inch spacers. The spool spacer is for tube not lamp strip. The spool is too short as you found out plus the diameter is also too small.

I said similar because Marco didn't show the color which is dark grey. But it probably won't matter since you really don't see them from the players perspective. Do you have the original hardware?

Need 2

Almost done with my hard top installation. I'm so glad I found some extended button rollovers to go along with the thicker playfield (due to the hard top).

... nice that someone thought of that.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/CWVRYK2NF/extended-c-587-6-bally-pinball-rollover-button?etId=196936247&utm_source=automated-contact&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=payment-received&utm_content=7&option=161142571

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Im not sure there’s much original hardware. It’s a mess up top. I’ll probably be doing the hardtop next week so I’m just trying to figure out the original places for the posts and makes sure the proper style posts are accounted for. Lot of extra holes have been drilled into this baby and some extra posts for different rubbers. My guess to make it easier to maintain on route.

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I temporarily have a spool on the left to hold the light strip up.

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Metal post is not to be there... The top right rubber ring is a large "whip around" ring.

Since were up in this area of the playfield. What’s the fix here?
Can’t win. Get it to allow the ball to roll back but then it’s not enough to engage the switch.

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