5 cartoon themes to pick from

I've played both ways extensively, and prefer hero stacking on. Nothing was worse than accidentally restarting a hero and having to time it out as it totally stopped the flow of the game.

If you know how to play the game, hero stacking is great, especially during mb where you can take down a few at a time. As a beginner, definitely turn it off or it will feel like chaos.

Hence your big scores

Big thanks to gweempose for helping me change the music, it's much better now

Wanted to thank those that responded to my questions. I've gone with factory default for stacking and that seems to be what others are doing.

I talked with the previous owner and he confirmed he was able to pull Wolverine off. I tried again and by wiggling right and left while pulling up, he eventually came off. Wanted to post that in case anyone else has trouble -- just take your time. He eventually comes off, but it a bit tricky.

I ended up putting two washers where the switch connects to the metal under the playfield. This provide just a tad more clearance. With the washers in place, I was able to tighten Wolverine and it still registers hits.

Previous owner put a black rubber on Wolverine by his belt. I've left it. It seems to be helping and I don't see any wear on Wolverine. I'll add the captive ball mod at some point. I think that's a better solution, but this will work for now, although it makes the Beast shot tighter.

Another quick question. Does the Cyclops spinner get stuck in the middle position for others? Seems to happen alot on mine. Ball will hit it, but doesn't register. Eventually the spinner falls. I took the right ramp off and looked at the switch. Nothing is binding. Any recommendations?

Bend the spinner so that the bottom is slightly leaning back. That should alleviate it getting stuck as it likely just needs to be rebalanced.

Is there a rom file available with the custom music?

Thanks. Will do.

Also for the spinner, check to make sure it's not binding on the top of the mounting screw. On the right side it's a tight clearance. When I put mine back together after shopping it out it was binding there and was doing exactly what yours was doing.

Joined the club, picked up a Wolverine LE.

My brother was in town over the weekend. He's a non-pinhead. He walked up to magneto and was all, "dude, what is this? This could be the most beautiful machine I've ever seen." Played it, and Iron man like crazy.

All 3 editions look fantastic!!! But there’s something about that Magnito!!!

That's what I'm interested into, too

I recently purchased an X-Men Pro with the captive ball mod in place of the Wolverine bash toy. I was able to use the original Wolverine and modify it to fit the captive ball mod so I have the best of both worlds; the improved play with the mod and the original toy. The left winglet on his mask barely touches the glass when installed. It is reversible to either the bash toy or the captive ball mod if desired. I do have add'l pics of how I did the changeover if interested.

IMG_0195 (resized).JPG

IMG_0199 (resized).JPG

Looks like a good fit, but this might cause issues with the LE....with the figure higher (and his extended claw) it might get into the moving ramp.

It still amazes me that a custom figure would be so poorly thought out (too wide, claw extended directly toward a moving ramp, elbow dragging and catching balls, different position "needed" for PRO and LE models).

I'm posting a photo of the Aux board from an LE for reference (@Gandalf37j)

IMG_6728 (resized).JPG

I'm very interested. Could you post additional pics in this thread? It would be a great reference.

I just got an Xmen Pro before Christmas. I'm loving the game. Wolverine, though, is the worst bash toy. Far too wide and easy to hit. I like the mezal mode approach with a captive ball. Makes it a more exacting shot.

Thanks,
Duane

Here are the steps I took to add the original Wolverine toy to the captive ball mod:

1) Take out the two screws on the back of the Wolverine toy and remove the original hardware.

2) If your captive ball mod is installed, remove the top cover and the four posts. Leave the bash-ball installed along with the base and the switch under the playfield. If you are installing the mod, just install the base and switch under the playfield and the bash-ball.

3) On the bottom side of the toy, place a mark at the center of the belt buckle and another at the center of the back (the groove where you removed the hardware). This is the centerline of the captive ball travel and will center the bash-ball under the belt buckle.

4) Using the top of the mod as a template, mark its centerline and then mark the locations for the four corner holes to be drilled in the bottom of the toy. Note that they are marked as far back as possible on the toy to allow it to clear the pop bumper behind it once mounted. Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill the holes.

5) From the inside of the toy, install four 2 1/2 inch #6 machine screws. You'll need to use a needle-nose pliers to do the job. Install a #6 washer on each one before insertion. One of them is too tight of a fit to use the washer (I can't remember which one).

6) Once the screws are sticking out of the toy, place a washer and nut on each one. Tighten them very snugly, then add a 3/4 inch #6 coupler and tighten it against the nut. I purchased the couplers from Ace Hardware. They are round and are a perfect size for the rubber posts to be installed. Cut four pieces of post rubber to 3/4 inch and place them over the couplers.

7) It is necessary to remove a little material from underneath each side of the toy to allow it to clear balls during game play. I did that with a sanding drum on a dremmel tool. I painted it black when done. You might have to mount the toy (step 9) a few times to get the right amount removed.

Put the captive ball in the ball grove.

9) Now mount the toy on the playfield. I placed three #6 washers on each of the front holes (near the bash-ball) and two washers on each of the rear holes. That gave me the necessary fit for the toy over the bash-ball and leaned it back slightly so it barely cleared the playfield glass. You'll have to experiment a little to get the exact fit.

10) Mount the toy. Note that the #6 screws will go through the base installed underneath the playfield since its holes are threaded, #8 holes. No modification is necessary. Place a washer and a nylok nut on each of the screws. Done!

NOTE: The pictures aren't in order. Sorry!

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IMG_0183 (resized).JPG
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Thanks!

any pictures of how the three relays under the playfield are wired/connected are also welcome

I have the original Wolverine in my LE mounted above the captive ball. I had to cut off the belt and mount it facing slightly more left than I would have liked, but it just barely works. I'm happy with how it turned out...best of both worlds.

Excellent write up, FiatsRUs! Thanks.

Very impressive!

Very nice Xmen LE up in the market https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/59431

This is for Gandalf37j for the Magneto motor wiring, but it may be helpful to others interested in how it is set up: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xmle-disk-motor-wiring

I was checking out the backbox speakers on my X-Men Pro and was a little surprised to see that there are two 4", 8 ohm speakers wired in series for a total impedance of 16 ohms. Is that right?

Circling back to XM after initially writing it off. I need clarification when people say they don’t like how Villains are qualified. Guessing it requires hitting scoop over and over or something repetitive?

Also heard if you finish danger room (loop the game) the game gets a bit scrambled and fails to light inserts properly or something wrong on second pass through of the modes?

Need to know what I’m in for. Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xmen-how-do-you-light-villain-and-an-xavier-question

Villains are qualified from the 3 inlanes (I think completing all three twice lights the scoop to start a villain).

Alternatively, hit Hellfire or Brotherhood targets enough to qualify them. Then, if you do not start Hellfire or Brotherhood mode, the next hit to those targets will light villain. Very handy to know.

Hey X-Men fans. I need your help in finding a forum topic. I've spent some time with the search tool, to no avail. I'm looking for a project where someone had added the red and blue GI bulbs to a pro playfield. He had pictures of the playfield and instructions on how to control them like the LE. The pictures showed that even the pro was drilled to accept the additional lights. It's possible I'm remembering this mod but have the game wrong, but I thought it was X-Men. Anyway, if you can find this or maybe have it favorites, let me know. Thanks.

Ps - I've seen the ramp light mod that also controls gi but that's not it. The one I'm remembering had specific pictures and instructions regarding the installation of the lights into the playfield.

Nope, just goes back to the start, same as when you beat any other Wizard.

rd

I never saw anything about a Pro with different colored controlled GI lights.

What I do remember is someone copying the colored GI locations of an LE on a Pro. I honestly thought it looked bad and served no purpose (since they didn't switch like an LE). I remember saying it made it look like an LE wannabe game and he cried about that (real tears I think). He had done some other changes to his Pro that I like and complimented him on, but adding red and blue to the GI in the same locations that a LE has was pointless. I honestly don't like them on my LE except for the fact they they actually do something and change the GI color in certain modes. Emma Frost with a bright red face just doesn't look that great and I can't for the life of me understand why someone with a Pro would want that.

I don't know about that....I do remember something strange with the X-Men speakers from the factory. There was a cap on each speaker or something and the sound was muffled. So people removed the caps and more of the sound started coming from the backbox speakers and the game sounded much better. I don't know if that pertains to what you are asking or not.

Hmmmm. I don't remember ever hearing that. I'm not sure if the heroes reset or if they stay lit. Even with them lit I'm sure you can still play them over and over again (if you want to or not). I really wish they would have added a simple option in the game to NOT replay beat heroes (until after Danger Room anyway).

Now after Dark Phoenix....on the last code...there is nothing to do. Nothing rests and the game is just beat...you can walk away because there is nothing to replay (except maybe the heroes again and again and again), but the villains don't reset. I would have much preferred the flippers just dies, the game ends and it said "You WIN!" on the DMD.

Don't get me wrong...I will never get there anyway, but I also hate knowing the game could very easily be vastly improved with some simple clean up and added options.

After defeating either wizard mode the game will basically restart and you can play through everything again. The hero lights will stay lit but you can play through each again, it is just harder to start each one as it will take 5 shots instead of 2 to start them. Dark phoenix is the same way, you can play each of the villains over until defeated. I was one omega red away from starting dark phoenix for a second time last week.

I'd love to know more about this. I've always felt like the sound on my XMLE was weirdly imbalanced with too much of the sound coming from the cabinet speaker. You're saying there is an easy fix for this?

The speakers are definitely wired in series (8 ohms + 8 ohms = 16 ohms) with a non-polarized capacitor wired in-line that acts as a filter. I believe the cap clips the low sounds so you only get mid-range and high sounds through the backbox speakers. To get the full range of sound from them, remove or short the capacitor. I don't know if that will help balance your sound or not.

I replaced the backbox speakers with 4" coax speakers (4 ohms each) wired in series and I left out the filter capacitor. I replaced the cabinet speaker with an 8" woofer wired with a 120 Hz low-pass crossover (the crossover clips the high and mid sounds and only lets through the wumpa-wumpa sounds). The sound is much better and the machine rumbles with bass; actually a little too much. I now need to install an L-pad to adjust the bass so that it is more in balance and doesn't rattle the china.

I'm wondering "normal" behaviour for Wolverine. I've adjusted the contacts a fair bit and it's better except when I hit his belt straight on. In these cases, it never registers. Is this normal? Or should I adjust it a bit more? Wolverine is a pretty important shot and it's frustrating if good hits aren't registering.

I know there is the mod to replace Wolverine with a captive ball and I may go that route later. At this point, don't want to spend $150 (exchange, taxes, shipping, etc) and looking at the stock Wolverine.

Not normal. I have a PRO and wolvie registers everytime I hit him. Check the switch distance again. I don't care for the captive ball mod.

Thanks. I'll fiddle with it some more and get it right

Playing 1.51? or the often un-updated 1.5? As everything I have ever read about the latest code (1.51) says the villains DO NOT reset and there is no 2nd loop or do again on them after they are completed.

This was a major reason of why many people didn't update from 1.5 to 1.51. I think fixing the ball lock timing fix in 1.51 made it worth the update alone.

I'm pretty sure it's on this thread somewhere. I found another thread talking about it here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/x-men-speakers

Somewhere (good luck finding it) it shows exactly where and what to cut off to make the sound better on the game.

Here is a post regarding bypassing the filter cap in the backbox:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-speaker-upgrade-diy-question#post-1827873

You could use a wire and two alligator clips to short the cap temporarily to see if you like the sound better with full range rather than having the low sounds clipped. ChoppaCade just twisted the cap to accomplish the same thing.

Are the Flipper Fidelity backbox speakers 4 ohm or 8 ohm? Do they recommend wiring them in series or in parallel?

For the people who replaced Wolverine with the Newton mod and a mini bust, do you have any issues with the Quake putty and lifting the playfield? Or has everything stuck okay?

I used servo or good sticky tape for the mini bust but I am not sure what you mean by lifting of playfield?

Lifting the Playfield. If you need to open up the game to work on anything

I am now in the X-Men club (MagnetoLE) love the game. I need some help.... I just put in the Newton mod and when I took off Wolverine inside of his body was a light (that never worked before; but I thought the bulb was just out). I replaced the bulb and in the single lamp test and all lamp test and I can get Lamp#63 to night up (Wolverine Head in the menu) but how can you get it to light up during the game play?

I can play the game with the glass off and start wolverine but I see that lamp #63 will NOT light up.

Please let me know how this light turns on during the game play, as I want to make use of it.

Thank you for the help.

It doesn't.

It lights up in attract mode only. It's pretty hard to see.

I used strong velcrow on the bottom and made a bracket for its back so no issues here.

Thanks for the updates DugFreez and TimeBandit on lamp#63; that is crazy that they went to the effort to put in the wiring and a separate circuit, which is used only in attract mode. I wish it would light when the Wolverine is running that way we could have it turn on a spotlight or something.