(Topic ID: 16030)

X-Men - Official Club Thread All Welcome!

By pmWolf

11 years ago


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#9851 8 years ago
Quoted from Kiwipinhead:

Take his high scores down Danni

She's working on it ....

rd.

#9852 8 years ago

double post. What's with that?

rd

#9853 8 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Hey! That was encouragement!
Miss "I stand on one leg!" lol
rd

Ha! Sure it was

#9854 8 years ago
Quoted from Danni_NZ:

First post from RotorDave's daughter! Ground breaking stuff right here...
It's been a long time of hard work to get here but I finally got to Danger Room (2nd time) and finished the whole thing! Finished with a pretty good score (for me guys, for me). It does not help when your dad mocks you from afar!
image.jpg
image.jpg
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Danni

Ha, you should have made your name on here rotordanni

#9855 8 years ago
Quoted from QuarterGrabber:

Ha, you should have made your name on here rotordanni

I was going to, but that's the old mans thing

#9856 8 years ago

I've just joined the Xmen LE (Wolverine) club, I'm excited about where this game might take me, it looks like it has some nice deep rules without being a long player like LOTR or SM.

I'm having a problem with the LED above the blackbird scoop. Every 10 mins it keeps popping out. I suspect that someone has put short posts under the plastic that the LED attaches to, consequently it is flush against the scoop (see images). If I'm right, can someone take a photo of their xmen scoop and the posts?

Thanks, onetaste

image.jpgimage.jpg

image_1.jpgimage_1.jpg

#9857 8 years ago

Pull the wires away from the plastic housing and wrap the base with some Teflon tape ( like you use in threaded pipe) then bend the wires back where they were. that should hold it in.

#9858 8 years ago

I've just installed the mezelmods bracket and modded the wolverine paperweight to fit in the game.

here is what i've found and my suggestions (typing this up very quiclky with limited time):

1) the posts that come in the mezelmod kit are too short and thin for the playfield and will not be able to be nutted correctly from the bottom. I swapped these out for #8 rubber posts and hammered these in from the top side (rock solid). I also had to drill out the base plate so that it could fit over the larger post thickness.

2) you can use titan rubber posts on the front 2 posts and the thinner black supplied posts on the back 2 posts and everything works fine.

3) If i take the bracket out again i will change how the switch is mounted. there is not enough length in the screws to mount it properly. i will switch the screws out for longer #6 machine screws and a threaded backing plate so that the switch can be removed without having to drop the pop bumper bracket.

4) i switched the leaves of the switch around so that the outside (towards the pop bumper) switch gets pressure from the inner tensioning leaf. the way the switch is shipped is more for a NC (normally closed) switch.

5) i took the wolverine bust and sawed him off where he meets the base. i then drilled a hole up through the middle of the figure and hogged the bottom out a bit to fit over a #6 nut. i then drilled a hole in the center of the 3d printed top piece that fits over the captive ball, pushed a #6 2" threaded screw through the hole and secured it with a locktited #6 nut. The wolverine figure was tapped and then threaded onto the rod.

I worry about the longevity of the bust as it's made from a non-flexible chaulky plaster like material. if it gets a good ball hit it will break. i will make a plastic piece to go on top of the base to help prevent balls popping up from the captive ball.

The sensitivity of the captive ball is awesome on mine and i can get wolverine hits from the upper flipper (difficult, but possible) and off center shots no problem.

I didnt have a ton of time for game play last night but in quick practice it feels awesome and the xavier shot is a nice solid shot instead of the frustrating mess it was before. hopefully will have more time for play tonight.

-c

#9859 8 years ago
Quoted from onetaste:

I've just joined the Xmen LE (Wolverine) club, I'm excited about where this game might take me, it looks like it has some nice deep rules without being a long player like LOTR or SM.
I'm having a problem with the LED above the blackbird scoop. Every 10 mins it keeps popping out. I suspect that someone has put short posts under the plastic that the LED attaches to, consequently it is flush against the scoop (see images). If I'm right, can someone take a photo of their xmen scoop and the posts?
Thanks, onetaste

image.jpg image_1.jpg

you're missing the piece that says black bird that mounts under the top piece with spacers. i'm not near my machine but can take a pic later.

#9860 8 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

I've just installed the mezelmods bracket and modded the wolverine paperweight to fit in the game.
here is what i've found and my suggestions (typing this up very quiclky with limited time):
1) the posts that come in the mezelmod kit are too short and thin for the playfield and will not be able to be nutted correctly from the bottom. I swapped these out for #8 rubber posts and hammered these in from the top side (rock solid). I also had to drill out the base plate so that it could fit over the larger post thickness.
2) you can use titan rubber posts on the front 2 posts and the thinner black supplied posts on the back 2 posts and everything works fine.
3) If i take the bracket out again i will change how the switch is mounted. there is not enough length in the screws to mount it properly. i will switch the screws out for longer #6 machine screws and a threaded backing plate so that the switch can be removed without having to drop the pop bumper bracket.
4) i switched the leaves of the switch around so that the outside (towards the pop bumper) switch gets pressure from the inner tensioning leaf. the way the switch is shipped is more for a NC (normally closed) switch.
5) i took the wolverine bust and sawed him off where he meets the base. i then drilled a hole up through the middle of the figure and hogged the bottom out a bit to fit over a #6 nut. i then drilled a hole in the center of the 3d printed top piece that fits over the captive ball, pushed a #6 2" threaded screw through the hole and secured it with a locktited #6 nut. The wolverine figure was tapped and then threaded onto the rod.
I worry about the longevity of the bust as it's made from a non-flexible chaulky plaster like material. if it gets a good ball hit it will break. i will make a plastic piece to go on top of the base to help prevent balls popping up from the captive ball.
The sensitivity of the captive ball is awesome on mine and i can get wolverine hits from the upper flipper (difficult, but possible) and off center shots no problem.
I didnt have a ton of time for game play last night but in quick practice it feels awesome and the xavier shot is a nice solid shot instead of the frustrating mess it was before. hopefully will have more time for play tonight.
-c

One of the arms broke off my paperweight wolverine from a ball hit. I bought a new figure but too lazy to remove the old one. I did replace my magnet core as it started to mushroom and was causing air balls.

#9861 8 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

One of the arms broke off my paperweight wolverine from a ball hit. I bought a new figure but too lazy to remove the old one. I did replace my magnet core as it started to mushroom and was causing air balls.

i like the figure, would be great to have one molded from the bust out of plastic that would be more durable. it's too bad that the marvel/sony xmen toy war is going on and they aren't making any good wolverine action figures.

anyone want to make a plastic molded version of this and paint it? i would definitely be a buyer

-c

#9862 8 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

I've just installed the mezelmods bracket and modded the wolverine paperweight to fit in the game.
here is what i've found and my suggestions (typing this up very quiclky with limited time):
1) the posts that come in the mezelmod kit are too short and thin for the playfield and will not be able to be nutted correctly from the bottom. I swapped these out for #8 rubber posts and hammered these in from the top side (rock solid). I also had to drill out the base plate so that it could fit over the larger post thickness.
2) you can use titan rubber posts on the front 2 posts and the thinner black supplied posts on the back 2 posts and everything works fine.
3) If i take the bracket out again i will change how the switch is mounted. there is not enough length in the screws to mount it properly. i will switch the screws out for longer #6 machine screws and a threaded backing plate so that the switch can be removed without having to drop the pop bumper bracket.
4) i switched the leaves of the switch around so that the outside (towards the pop bumper) switch gets pressure from the inner tensioning leaf. the way the switch is shipped is more for a NC (normally closed) switch.
5) i took the wolverine bust and sawed him off where he meets the base. i then drilled a hole up through the middle of the figure and hogged the bottom out a bit to fit over a #6 nut. i then drilled a hole in the center of the 3d printed top piece that fits over the captive ball, pushed a #6 2" threaded screw through the hole and secured it with a locktited #6 nut. The wolverine figure was tapped and then threaded onto the rod.
I worry about the longevity of the bust as it's made from a non-flexible chaulky plaster like material. if it gets a good ball hit it will break. i will make a plastic piece to go on top of the base to help prevent balls popping up from the captive ball.
The sensitivity of the captive ball is awesome on mine and i can get wolverine hits from the upper flipper (difficult, but possible) and off center shots no problem.
I didnt have a ton of time for game play last night but in quick practice it feels awesome and the xavier shot is a nice solid shot instead of the frustrating mess it was before. hopefully will have more time for play tonight.
-c

1. The four posts are only supposed to thread into the bracket. No nuts should be needed. Wondering what it came with that made you think this.

3. I mount the switch before putting it or the bracket into the machine. The screws should go in from the back and through the switch into the bracket.

4. Interesting. I am not sure what switch was ultimately used, but the biggest part is preventing the pop bumper from triggering the switch.

5. For anyone that had a big problem with this game due to the wolverine bash toy, I highly suggest buying this or trying to play a game with it installed. It will completely change how a Wolverine is in the game and make it much more of a shooter. The speed you get around that beast to storm shot is great.

#9863 8 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

I've just installed the mezelmods bracket and modded the wolverine paperweight to fit in the game.
here is what i've found and my suggestions (typing this up very quiclky with limited time):
1) the posts that come in the mezelmod kit are too short and thin for the playfield and will not be able to be nutted correctly from the bottom. I swapped these out for #8 rubber posts and hammered these in from the top side (rock solid). I also had to drill out the base plate so that it could fit over the larger post thickness.
2) you can use titan rubber posts on the front 2 posts and the thinner black supplied posts on the back 2 posts and everything works fine.
3) If i take the bracket out again i will change how the switch is mounted. there is not enough length in the screws to mount it properly. i will switch the screws out for longer #6 machine screws and a threaded backing plate so that the switch can be removed without having to drop the pop bumper bracket.
4) i switched the leaves of the switch around so that the outside (towards the pop bumper) switch gets pressure from the inner tensioning leaf. the way the switch is shipped is more for a NC (normally closed) switch.
5) i took the wolverine bust and sawed him off where he meets the base. i then drilled a hole up through the middle of the figure and hogged the bottom out a bit to fit over a #6 nut. i then drilled a hole in the center of the 3d printed top piece that fits over the captive ball, pushed a #6 2" threaded screw through the hole and secured it with a locktited #6 nut. The wolverine figure was tapped and then threaded onto the rod.
I worry about the longevity of the bust as it's made from a non-flexible chaulky plaster like material. if it gets a good ball hit it will break. i will make a plastic piece to go on top of the base to help prevent balls popping up from the captive ball.
The sensitivity of the captive ball is awesome on mine and i can get wolverine hits from the upper flipper (difficult, but possible) and off center shots no problem.
I didnt have a ton of time for game play last night but in quick practice it feels awesome and the xavier shot is a nice solid shot instead of the frustrating mess it was before. hopefully will have more time for play tonight.
-c

Pics or it didn't happen

#9864 8 years ago

Here are some pictures from my phone without flash and my battery was dying. I'm spending some time enjoying being able to see the shots now the giant blue and yellow torso is gone.

Here's the view from the top side.
20150713_201459.jpg20150713_201459.jpg

Bracket from bottom

20150713_201714.jpg20150713_201714.jpg

Different post lengths. The kit posts are in the middle. These fit in the hole loose and would have just come out of the plastic base plate over time. The thicker longer posts are the way to go and will limit everything moving around.

20150713_202145.jpg20150713_202145.jpg

Bonus black bird mod with flex purple bulb from pinball life. I spun the black socket around and bent the leads around to each side. Looks great without looking at the exposed bulb
20150713_201509.jpg20150713_201509.jpg

-c

#9865 8 years ago

I

Quoted from onetaste:I've just joined the Xmen LE (Wolverine) club, I'm excited about where this game might take me, it looks like it has some nice deep rules without being a long player like LOTR or SM.
I'm having a problem with the LED above the blackbird scoop. Every 10 mins it keeps popping out. I suspect that someone has put short posts under the plastic that the LED attaches to, consequently it is flush against the scoop (see images). If I'm right, can someone take a photo of their xmen scoop and the posts?
Thanks, onetaste

Add black shrink tape around the bulb and bulb outlet. That bad boy will never fallout again.
DL

#9866 8 years ago

ok, someone tell me who that disco chick is with the extra ball animation and does she have her own mode in the game? So far I am really enjoying the game

#9867 8 years ago

Dazzler.

No.

#9868 8 years ago
Quoted from Max_Badazz:

ok, someone tell me who that disco chick is with the extra ball animation and does she have her own mode in the game? So far I am really enjoying the game

Being an X-men comic fan definitely enhances my enjoyment of this pin. The number of mutants they have in the pin with the skill shots, ball save, Xavier mode, multiballs, is great.

#9869 8 years ago

Any word if a color DMD will be available? This would be a no brainer insta-purchase for me.

-c

#9870 8 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

you're missing the piece that says black bird that mounts under the top piece with spacers. i'm not near my machine but can take a pic later.

Yep, that's the problem, thanks!

#9871 8 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

Any word if a color DMD will be available? This would be a no brainer insta-purchase for me.
-c

Someone is working on it. No idea on time frame.

#9872 8 years ago

"Here are some pictures from my phone without flash and my battery was dying. I'm spending some time enjoying being able to see the shots now the giant blue and yellow torso is gone.

That game looks great.

#9873 8 years ago
Quoted from MRG:

"Here are some pictures from my phone without flash and my battery was dying. I'm spending some time enjoying being able to see the shots now the giant blue and yellow torso is gone.
That game looks great.

i'm glad i could out-source part of your game room

-c

#9874 8 years ago

Do I have to join this club to be a member? or just engage in the forum?

#9875 8 years ago

I"m hoping someone here can help me. I had a problem with the game, so I just updated the code. I still have the same problem..... Randomly, when I'm playing, the flippers go dead, and my ball ends- goes down the drain...... It's happening a lot lately. Any ideas?

#9876 8 years ago
Quoted from Thestrangebrewer:

I"m hoping someone here can help me. I had a problem with the game, so I just updated the code. I still have the same problem..... Randomly, when I'm playing, the flippers go dead, and my ball ends- goes down the drain...... It's happening a lot lately. Any ideas?

Check your trough opto switches. Notorious issue.

#9877 8 years ago

Thanks Pinball Corpse-

The trough upkicker seems to not like to work sometimes... game searches for ball, and won't play again, till I manually push the ball to the shooter lane from the trough upkicker. Please expand a bit on the opto switches. I can look through diagnostics in the game.... haven't done that yet. do you think it would be an issue with the coil? or something different?

#9878 8 years ago
Quoted from Thestrangebrewer:

Do I have to join this club to be a member?

Just send me a check for $50 and you're in. PayPal is ok too.

Quoted from Thestrangebrewer:

Please expand a bit on the opto switches. I can look through diagnostics in the game.... haven't done that yet. do you think it would be an issue with the coil? or something different?

Start by reseating the 2x molex connectors you can see on the opto boards on the ball trough. Then remove and reseat the three (from memory) molex plugs that run from the ball trough assembly and plug into the main wiring harness. Try that for starters.

rd.

#9879 8 years ago

$50! lol- how about come my pub next time you come to Kauai, and I'll pour you some beer! I have 4 pins at my pub- working on getting more, but not bad for Kauai ..... (the only public pins on Kauai) If anyone finds them out here, follow this link and look us up. My friend has the only other pinball machines we know of out here... He posted this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/if-anyone-comes-to-kauai-rememebr-to-look-me-up/page/2#post-2495795

I'm brewing some beer now, but will try reseating the molex when i get a chance- Thanks

#9880 8 years ago

Looks like I need to check out switches 2 and 4 (near the balckbird) Probably won't have a chance till tomorrow, but I"ll post how it works out.

#9881 8 years ago

I reseated the molex connectors and checked switches 2 and 4- both look good- kind of at a loss..

#9882 8 years ago

As mentioned, what you are describing sounds like a common trough opto issue. If reseating the connectors didn't work, you can try reflowing the solder on the opto boards, or getting new ones. Try searching the forums for Stern trough issue posts, it has come up a few times. If that doesn't help, you might also have better luck getting help by creating a thread in the tech forum.

#9883 8 years ago
Quoted from Thestrangebrewer:

I reseated the molex connectors and checked switches 2 and 4- both look good- kind of at a loss..

Take balks out of the game. Put the game in switch test mode and feed the balls in one by one. Do they all register on the matrix?

Is anything stuck in your trough, like a light bulb? Might seem dumb, but on more than one occasion a bulb has come out from under the slings and lodged itself in the trough without me even realizing it until I see the balls not feed right.

Look for broken wire (s) around the coil.

Clean the optos with a qtip and rubbing alcohol.

Make sure connections at opto boards are good, as mentioned earlier.

#9884 8 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Take balks out of the game. Put the game in switch test mode and feed the balls in one by one. Do they all register on the matrix?
Is anything stuck in your trough, like a light bulb? Might seem dumb, but on more than one occasion a bulb has come out from under the slings and lodged itself in the trough without me even realizing it until I see the balls not feed right.
Look for broken wire (s) around the coil.
Clean the optos with a qtip and rubbing alcohol.
Make sure connections at opto boards are good, as mentioned earlier.

Spot on advice.

rd

#9885 8 years ago

Does anyone know if there is a list of LED bulb types for each location for X-men Pro? (sort of like this list I made for my JD https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B-EK4Cqk6O589vE-AVHtPSp0Agc-p3CZAb4Xp8z9ceI/edit#gid=920895732)

I just picked up an bone stock X-men pro and am in the process of tuning it up, and one thing it badly needs is LED's.

#9886 8 years ago
Quoted from CraigC:

Here are some pictures from my phone without flash and my battery was dying. I'm spending some time enjoying being able to see the shots now the giant blue and yellow torso is gone.

Where did you find that Wolverine? Is there a kit for that change?

#9887 8 years ago
Quoted from redundor:

Does anyone know if there is a list of LED bulb types for each location for X-men Pro? (sort of like this list I made for my JD https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1B-EK4Cqk6O589vE-AVHtPSp0Agc-p3CZAb4Xp8z9ceI/edit#gid=920895732)
I just picked up an bone stock X-men pro and am in the process of tuning it up, and one thing it badly needs is LED's.

Check out the LE manual:
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/x-men/le/429/XMenManual_042214.pdf

Pages 109-111 of the PDF or Y12-15 of the actual manual

#9888 8 years ago
Quoted from PavBall:

Where did you find that Wolverine? Is there a kit for that change?

ebay.com link: WOLVERINE XMEN Marvel Comics ACTION Figure PAPERWEIGHT

Then use the captive ball mod: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/x-men-le-wolverine-newton-bracket-by-mezelmods

Can't recommend the captive ball enough. Such an improvement to the game.

#9889 8 years ago
Quoted from MRG:

Check out the LE manual:
http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/games/x-men/le/429/XMenManual_042214.pdf
Pages 109-111 of the PDF or Y12-15 of the actual manual

Yeah, I had seen that already when I was going though the manual. Look like that shows color of the gi for the LE only and not bulb type. From what I have seen the gi is all 555, but I haven't had time to look in detail yet. I was hoping to get a list showing all the bulbs on the table. I guess I'll just to open
it up and figure it out.

#9890 8 years ago

Getting started over my lunch break. I copied out the lamp matrix and filled in the bulb types that I remember. Anyone have any tips on color? I also have to take a look at the GI on the table and decide what colors I want to put where. I am thinking that all white might be a bit bland on this table.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1T0hKz5FzJRvHd7AjFHOp3T-z_8kowrf2dTbWm7i5dwU/edit?usp=sharing

#9891 8 years ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Then use the captive ball mod: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/x-men-le-wolverine-newton-bracket-by-mezelmods
Can't recommend the captive ball enough. Such an improvement to the game.

Thank you!!! PavBall and I will order that.

#9892 8 years ago
Quoted from redundor:

Getting started over my lunch break. I copied out the lamp matrix and filled in the bulb types that I remember. Anyone have any tips on color? I also have to take a look at the GI on the table and decide what colors I want to put where. I am thinking that all white might be a bit bland on this table.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1T0hKz5FzJRvHd7AjFHOp3T-z_8kowrf2dTbWm7i5dwU/edit?usp=sharing

I replaced the GI with the red, white and blue LEDS from the LE guide and left the inserts white (replaced the incandesents with white double leds). I like it!

#9893 8 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

I replaced the GI with the red, white and blue LEDS from the LE guide and left the inserts white (replaced the incandesents with white double leds). I like it!

Do you happen to have a picture? I'd worry that with the red white and blue all so close to each other the colours would wash together. I was leaving towards doing zones of colour, so maybe red on one corner and blue in another. I have been searching for photos for some inspiration but haven't found all that many yet.

#9894 8 years ago

Well, I am not a good photographer and the basement gameroom is pretty dim but here is a quick pic of my XMEN. The colors are bright and pleasing, not harsh and look great during gameplay. The RED are awesome near Magneto and his stock white flasher looks great coming through his cape amidst a wash of red around him. Stern did a nice job on the lighting of the LE and left almost the same exact holes in the PRO (except missing 4 additional lamps), so it makes XMEN an great candidate for LE type lighting.
IMG_2204.JPGIMG_2204.JPG

Just follow the LE lamp color map and I think you will be pleased.

Quoted from redundor:

Do you happen to have a picture? I'd worry that with the red white and blue all so close to each other the colours would wash together. I was leaving towards doing zones of colour, so maybe red on one corner and blue in another. I have been searching for photos for some inspiration but haven't found all that many yet.

#9895 8 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Well, I am not a good photographer and the basement gameroom is pretty dim but here is a quick pic of my XMEN. The colors are bright and pleasing, not harsh and look great during gameplay. The RED are awesome near Magneto and his stock white flasher looks great coming through his cape amidst a wash of red around him. Stern did a nice job on the lighting of the LE and left almost the same exact holes in the PRO (except missing 4 additional lamps), so it makes XMEN an great candidate for LE type lighting.
IMG_2204.JPG
Just follow the LE lamp color map and I think you will be pleased.

Thanks for the picture, it looks great. I still think I may go with grouped colours, but I'll definitely get more than just white for the gi so I can play around.

I also updated my sheet to match the pro light locations. Apparently the switch matrix is completely different for the pro and the LE, and the online manual only has the LE layout. I am thinking of color coding each of the x-men shots instead of going with all white, but we'll see how carried away I get

#9896 8 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Well, I am not a good photographer and the basement gameroom is pretty dim but here is a quick pic of my XMEN. The colors are bright and pleasing, not harsh and look great during gameplay. The RED are awesome near Magneto and his stock white flasher looks great coming through his cape amidst a wash of red around him. Stern did a nice job on the lighting of the LE and left almost the same exact holes in the PRO (except missing 4 additional lamps), so it makes XMEN an great candidate for LE type lighting.
IMG_2204.JPG
Just follow the LE lamp color map and I think you will be pleased.

I'm not a fan of the red GI bulbs under the slings (even on my LE). Since the LE does have the GI color switching I did leave it (as changing it would throw off the LEs GI light show), but I don't understand why anyone with a PRO model would put red GI bulbs there. Red faced Emma Frost and red faced Mystique look bad (even on the LE) in my opinion.

I do remember someone posting that they switched the sockets under the slings on their LE so it was red butt Emma Frost and red butt Mystique. I think this would look a bit better, but I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort as just white in both sockets would really be best in my opinion. Most of the other plastics in the game don't have pictures on them so color matching the LE GI bulbs doesn't seem bad in other locations. There's also red faced Sentinel in the back right corner, but he's not nearly as noticeable.

That being said, I still don't understand why a person would put the red and blue GI bulbs scattered around on a PRO. Unless they are switching the GI lighting color (like the LE) I don't understand the appeal of the red and blue bulbs in scattered out locations. Something like red GI under Mags makes sense, but just a red here and blue there just because the LE is that way....I don't get it.

#9897 8 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I'm not a fan of the red GI bulbs under the slings (even on my LE). Since the LE does have the GI color switching I did leave it (as changing it would throw off the LEs GI light show), but I don't understand why anyone with a PRO model would put red GI bulbs there. Red faced Emma Frost and red faced Mystique look bad (even on the LE) in my opinion.
I do remember someone posting that they switched the sockets under the slings on their LE so it was red butt Emma Frost and red butt Mystique. I think this would look a bit better, but I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort as just white in both sockets would really be best in my opinion. Most of the other plastics in the game don't have pictures on them so color matching the LE GI bulbs doesn't seem bad in other locations. There's also red faced Sentinel in the back right corner, but he's not nearly as noticeable.
That being said, I still don't understand why a person would put the red and blue GI bulbs scattered around on a PRO. Unless they are switching the GI lighting color (like the LE) I don't understand the appeal of the red and blue bulbs in scattered out locations. Something like red GI under Mags makes sense, but just a red here and blue there just because the LE is that way....I don't get it.

I was thinking of trying to color match in zones, so blue over by the brotherhood and red by hellfire. I might keep the back all white, or play around with it as well. We'll see what happens.

On a sort of related note, I couldn't find the pro manual online so I scanned mine in. I like to have digital copies handy, and if anyone else is like me feel free to download the attached file.

Stern_2012_X-Men_Pro.pdfStern_2012_X-Men_Pro.pdf

#9898 8 years ago

My machine came with LEDs already in it. It is a Pro. Last owner did some cool color matching and it is very nice. Will have to film a video and upload it.

#9899 8 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I'm not a fan of the red GI bulbs under the slings (even on my LE). Since the LE does have the GI color switching I did leave it (as changing it would throw off the LEs GI light show), but I don't understand why anyone with a PRO model would put red GI bulbs there. Red faced Emma Frost and red faced Mystique look bad (even on the LE) in my opinion.
I do remember someone posting that they switched the sockets under the slings on their LE so it was red butt Emma Frost and red butt Mystique. I think this would look a bit better, but I'm not sure if it would be worth the effort as just white in both sockets would really be best in my opinion. Most of the other plastics in the game don't have pictures on them so color matching the LE GI bulbs doesn't seem bad in other locations. There's also red faced Sentinel in the back right corner, but he's not nearly as noticeable.
That being said, I still don't understand why a person would put the red and blue GI bulbs scattered around on a PRO. Unless they are switching the GI lighting color (like the LE) I don't understand the appeal of the red and blue bulbs in scattered out locations. Something like red GI under Mags makes sense, but just a red here and blue there just because the LE is that way....I don't get it.

I agree. I switched red to whites. Looks great now. You won't be disappointed.

#9900 8 years ago
Quoted from PinDescabarian:

I agree. I switched red to whites. Looks great now. You won't be disappointed.

So you switched the sockets under the slings? On an LE?....or you just switched the bulbs?

If you did switch the sockets....was there enough slack wire on all 4 sockets to do it without having to cut / add wire to them?

If it's as easy and unscrewing the sockets and switching them I may give it a try myself.

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