My Wolverine sometimes doesnt register other than that I think everything has been really good. One problem I have is the PF is a super tight fit into the cabinet to the point you have to give it a tight pull to lift it. I guess no mirror blades in XMEN....anyone else's seems super tight?

I did mylar the shooter lane...should have from the start but after about 50 games it was already chipping. Also put on a piece at Wolverine to avoid possible damage.

mine seems to have room for mirror blades. That's odd. Im not adding blades though unless they make a lower left ramp cover. The ball (only at left orbit highspeeds) ski jumps that ramp into the wood side often. Kinda fun to watch but id rather make the shot intended.

The blades aren't glass. They can take a hit.

I know. Id rather wait though. I would hope that a plastic ramp cover is made for us.

I'm puzzled how people are putting mylar in the shooter lane. Are you talking in the groove as well? I would like to see a picture to fully grasp this.

+1

From what I understand they just take a slingshot mylar and put it down but I would also like to see some detailed pics (so I can do mine!)

I cut a square piece that fits from right out of the ball eject down through the grove and to the other side. I started it right about the notch cut for the switch. If you have a space slingshot mylar around that should work.

damn...I will have to take another look but if just seems super tight but maybe they will fit.

Haven't had this happen yet, I will have to watch for it.

I replaced the front spacer and screw on the storm ramp with a 1/4" longer one because sometimes the ball would hit the plastic cover end.Now I can make the Beast to Storm combo shot nearly every time if it doesn't fly over the side.

I use self adhesive laminating sheets. After I found a pattern that worked, I just used it for all my other games.

Anyone try a power ball in theirs yet?

Just got an email from Mr. Borg suggesting a 5/16" e ring to take up the slop in the spinner magnet shaft and stop the banging. Or 2 of them if there's room. Seems like a good fix to me.

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Let us know your results!

I can't get a picture of it....it does not show. I made a paper template for my games first and included the flat area to the left of the shooter lane. Then I cut out the mylar to match it and carefully put it in the shooter lane (including the groove) and over to the flat area of the playfield. For the groove area start at the deep end when you put it down. It will work if you are careful. I saved the template for future games too.

Dammit, all I have is 1/4" e-rings

Thanks for explaining the process in detail.

Cut some plexiglas yourself

I think this might be my next plan of attack. I'll remove Wolvie and melt his back holes so I can give him a tilt. On the bottom mount hole I will have him slid to the right as far as he can go (for maximum Beast lane accessibility) but on the left I will have the plate slid over a bit to give him a gangsta lean. Then I will bend his bracket down as far as I can, but still keep the plastic tab in the rear on the trigger plate.

Hopefully the combo of the tilt and leaning the bracket forward will get the claws off of the ramp.

I'm goin' in! (again)

You need to get that figure back to original form, with a slight tilt to left will get the hand down to clear the ramp as well as bring the other arm up so you don't have the arm pit ball trap.
Then adjust the switch under the playfield. The switch adjustment takes all of 2 seconds with a slight bend to make it more sensitive. Putting the game in switch test while doing this is perfect. Having that figure back like in your pic is just wrong. Maybe that figure was warped or something and you should get a new one under warranty ?

So, I went out and got some 5/16" e-rings and put one in there. Works. F'ing. Awesome. No more banging noise when the magnet activates and spins, no more up and down motion on the disc through the coil test, and it seems just from initial observations that the magnet is a little bit stronger now (holds the balls a bit better on Magneto mult-ball release), but don't hold me to it.

I am now the proud owner of a 100% working Wolvie LE, and am very happy.

Pics or it didn't happen

An update on adjusting my Wolverine from his "poppin' a wheelie" postition I had him in. I took him off and pulled his support rod forward as far as I could and still leaving the plastic peg in the back close to touching it (very close. a slice of paper would barely fit between them). Then I remounted Wolvie. I had already melted the holes in his back to allow me to move him around a bit on the bracket when the screws are loose. I actually slid him as far as I could to the rights (to allow maximum room between his base and the scoop hole). How far he slides over to the right is actually dictated more by the hole in his base that the mounting holes in the back, but the rectangle mounting plate is just about slid over as far as it could go anyway.

Then I went into the coil test to swing the ramp over to see how much I needed to tilt him. The ramp come over and missed him by about 1/4". The claws are not pointed over the ramp or under the ramp. They are pointed right at it and the ramp still doesn't touch when it comes over or on it's little bump forward on it's return trip. The ramp is also adjusted properly for a nice smooth drop off on both the left and right side.

So I guess he is finally adjusted. The left orbit shot (including Gambit hurry up) is possable but still a very tough shot. Xavier can still be hit fine (Wolvie isn't slid to far right). Wolverine always gets triggered when hit, but isn't so sensative that the Nightcrawlers thumping down at the begining of the game set him off (which I did have him that sensative for awhile). He's good to go.....but still fatter than he should be.

So I just got my Magneto today . I put about 20 games on when the Wolverine magnet locked on to the ball and wouldn't release it then the Nightcrawlers came up and won't go down. I open the backbox and the F7 fuse blew. I called stern and the transistor on the 8 transistor board blew. All I got was about 20 games on it.

dugfreez

Glad everything will be all sorted by the time mine ships.. Still no ship announcement for mine

Gah. Sorry

Do you know what caused the blowout in the first place?

Wonder if home depot caries those e rings. Borg was supposedly sending me another disc assembly. Going to wait on that.

yes TA_50380_1.jpg

That's where I got mine.

Is anyone else getting phantom insert flashing? My villain insert likes to randomly flash (when it isn't supposed to)...as does the left outline special, and Wolverine insert/red arrow.

Seems like some kind of interference, or something. Maybe how the wires are being run through the harness, or something. (Didn't Tron have a similar issue?)

Just checking to see if I'm the only one.

Pete

Yes, lots of Trons had that same issue, but I thought it had something to do with the fiber optics interfering?

My scoop "villain", and right outside "special when lit" ghost as well sometimes a "blackbird launch" inlane at times.

The fix for tron was to cut the zip ties on some of the wire harnesses.

You must have had a smokin' good game!

Sorry to hear that... good thing that Stern has good customer support.

I was wondering if you can go into the light test and get them to ghost? I know on most games that have ghosting I can cycle through the single bulb and see when other bulbs (that are not supposed to be lit) ghost.

If you can and you do discover these ghosting in the tests....let us know an example (which bulb are you selecting in the test to be lit and which one is ghosting during it's test).

On an unrelated note...I have still yet to hear from anyone having 1.0 software. Did they all ship with 1.1?

Here are the gears of the spinning magnet someone asked me to post. I did the best I could with my camera. Hope this helps.

IMG_0657.JPG IMG_0658.JPG IMG_0659.JPG

tatman said his was 1.0 unless he was mistaken.

I have finally given up on adjusting my Wolverine. He is bent back like he is poppin' a freakin' wheelie.

Almost looks like Magneto in the background is saying " Hey wolverine hold on there a second bub' you're getting in the way"

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I am surprised that the gears are all opened like that and it's not closed. I hate motors with gear boxes, I always fear a gear will break and I wont be able to replace it. Please Judge Dredd motor don't every die!

Try in the game feature setting. I had a similar issue with my le transformers. Ball keeped kicking out the cannon after lock. Then no 4 ball blast on multiball. I found a setting in the game features and it fixed it!

For $6,500 we shouldn't have to do anything but a couple tweaks. Though I am happy for the most part.

Nonsense. For $6500 you should get a good game that you enjoy. You may have to do small things to *any* pinball machine to make it better. The game is fine and does not need ramp covers. But if you want one, its extremely fast, easy, and cheap to get some Plexiglas and cut it yourself. Taking the idea that you won't do that because you paid $6500 and shouldn't have to is absolutely silly.

Thanks for that! We pay the manufacturer top dollar for design and product. My new car has an issue and they fix it. Why should we have to make new games play better out of the box? Tweaks yes. Adjustments yes. IMO a cover on that ramp to prevent air balls should be there. I'm a huge supporter of stern. I'm happy with my purchase and i'm not complaining. Just sayin'

For the record I don't think the occasional air all in pinball is bad. Just don't like it off that ramp during a combo is all.

I understand. But I haven't had any airballs so I'm not convinced there's a design issue here. In either case, it's an easy enough fix. I'd rather fix my own stuff than rely on someone else to do it, if I can. I've seen your skills. You can do it as well as I can

If anyone is having any funkyness from the lock (balls going missing, Magneto releasing balls when he shouldn't, ect...) I have a suggestion for something to test.

Go into the setting. Go to the coil test. Make sure you have th high power to the playfield and go to the coil to pop up the pins that lock the balls in the lock.

Now disable the high power to the playfield. Go into the switch test. Roll a ball through the Rouge lane to the lock. Notice what the rollover swich is in the lock. Now flick the ball back into the lock like a captive ball hit. Do this a few times and make sure the roller switch is showing as active everytime the ball comes to rest against the pins.

I had a funky bahaving lock. All of the optos and rollover checked out when activated in test mode. The issue with me was the rollover would get activated when I locked the first ball, but as soon an another ball locked in behind it....it would push the 1st ball forward just the slightest bit so the ball was no longer triggering the rollover switch. I fixed this by doing a little bend work on the rollover wire. I then retested as I described before and the little wire adjustment fixed the issue.

It was an easy problem to miss because in the test the switch worked 100% when I triggered it with my finger and just rolling a ball over it. The issue didn't make itself apairant until I tested with the lock pins up.

turn the pin on and take the backglass off. look at your pf at an angle and try to get the glare from the light in the backbox. tell me or take a pic of your pf to the right side of wolverine and see if you have dimples. bet you do.

Really?? You have to do all of that to see a dimple and its an issue.

I've got plenty of dimples. Wolverine magnet is really banged up already. I lowered it early on as it was a touch high, but it still is getting chewed up. Tried putting a mylar circle on it but it got destroyed immediately. Cut the center out of the mylar and the outside part is doing well.

I also have shooter lane damage already, like the paint didn't stick to the wood, so when the ball dented the wood down the paint bubbled up like mylar would. On the inside the bubble dried out finally and flaked off ~3/4", still have a small bubble on the other side ~1/2". Once it dries and flakes off I'll add some hard-as-nails and maybe maylar, and a cliffy.

Not too worried about any of it though, metal ball banging around it's going to happen. My 2005 LOTR dimpled up pretty good right off the bat, and even my STTNG shows some dimpling. No where near the same of course, but it is there.

I didn't have an e ring, but put a snap ring on the magnet shaft and it is better. But I also installed a shaker last night so who knows! Snap rings aren't as smooth, but I buffed it a little and added a touch of oil. Probably change it out for a real e ring at some point.

jackel2001 Yes I have v 1.0

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Well, I am now going to wait on buying XMEN as I don't have the technical expertise to fix all these kind of issues and I naively thought buying a NIB would be relatively hassle free. I know it is for some but seems a lottery right now.

Hopefully most of these issues will be fixed by new code etc.