I just picked up a nice one for $1300 but I got lucky. Deals are out there if you want to wait.

Anyone have some plastics they dont need? I am looking for the one under the two lights at the mini pf. One of my bulbs has melted the plastic in that spot. Also the mode start plastic on top of the middle ramp.

For the topper, I recommend one of the many replica belts made of plastic. Much better than the original topper and yet they are still cheap. Just be sure to get a WWF one, and not a lame-ass "WWE" belt!

I spent a bit of time putting together a display stand for my replica belt...couldn't be happier with the result!

And I completely agree with fellow WWFRR Club members...it's one of the great 'bang for your buck' pins of all time!

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Finishing up on a complete main and uper playfield teardown, buffing and polishing and rebuild of all mechanisms on my WWFRR. The Lockdown bar cabinet mounting bracket looks like someone pucked up beer on it and it corroded. I would like to get a replacement for it. Does anyone know if the modern Stern games mounting bracket will fit on Data East Games?? They look nearly identical to me other than the color.. another question, has anyone removed the side rails on a DE machine like WWF. i am thinking about having them powder coated along with legs, lockdown bar, and hinges. How hard is it to remove the rails after removing the the bottom bolt and security screw at the top? I am thinking about sliding a very thin flexible putty knife between the cab and rail and gently tapping upward along the length of the rail to break the mounting tape or whatever they used.
Thanks..
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I love this game.....oh ya 6 ball multi ball

You can turn most stuff back on after setting it to any of the base rule sets. That was my major gripe with setting it to PAPA as well, but I discovered I was able to get high scores back and free play/coin drop by going back into adjustments and tweaking those items individually.

HELP! Are any of you guys running 1.06 in your machine? What ROM file are you utilizing? My buddy who burns all my chips for me (pinball and vids) is trying to use the PinMAME ROM off of IPDB, but we're having issues getting it to play nice with the chip. Is there, perhaps, another ROM file I should be using? I'm under the impression PinMAME roms are perfectly fine to burn and utilize in an actual machine. Am I mistaken?

Just glad after seeing your picture that I am not the only one who blocks doors with my games....closet space?....who needs that, ha.

Finished up my 3 month project on my WWF and decided to have the Armor powder coated. Check it out. I wonder if some kind of red trim around the backbox cab would look good?

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I have been thinking about doing that with mine but in yellow.

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don't know why that pic got attached ...lol .. It has nothing to do with my comment.

Jason p... I think your pin would look good in yellow trim... I have a powder coating contact so get up with me about that

Any sources for the trim pieces. I have seen reference to it in other posts but I cannot find it. THX. I debated yellow armor but decided to go with red to match some of the PF plastics. I did switch to yellow flipper buttons though. HAHA!

If you can't wait, expect to pay $2000. If you can wait, $1200-$1500 is very realistic. That is the mistake it seems a lot of people make, they see a pin selling for a certain price, and then decide the must have it right now only to not be able to find one at that price because no one is wanting to sell at that exact moment.

I waited years to find one at a fair price. I got it for $1400. If you wanted to buy *mine*, *right now* you'd be looking at probably $3k to convince me to do it.

If I tire of it in a few months, I'd probably sell it for $1400. But I'm not a person that tires of machines much, so I wouldn't suggest waiting on mine.

As first reported in another thread by John Wart RIP the ultimate warrior.

http://www.wwe.com/inside/ultimate-warrior-passes-away-26223975

Hey guys,

I know some of you probably remember the other thread about it (http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwf-royal-rumble-wwfrr-gameplay-questions) but I'm finally getting around to looking into my own enter diverter.

For someone familiar with the issue (or for anyone with some time on their hands) when I do a coil test, and fire it (it's #12: Enter Diverter) should the diverter get pulled in to the plate by itself? Or does the ball (or your finger) have to make contact for it to go? It's firing just fine, but I need to touch it for it to be pulled in. Is this right, or should it go by itself?

My machine's game rom is at someone else's place, so I can't fire it up and triple check...BUT, off the top of my head, I believe it should grab the diverter without help. We are talking about the one all the way at the back, that diverts a Yokozuna ramp shot to the mini-pf (it's the only one I can think of)? One thing to check is to see if it is getting hung up on the ramp plastic (it comes through a little slot on the plastic). Your touching it may be enough for it to come loose. Mine would get hung up on the plastic if the ramps weren't sitting quite right and putting enough pressure on the diverter so that it couldn't move.

Question,

Haven't spent as much time on WWF lately, and had a party a few weeks back where it got a lot of play. I went to play it last night and my shaker motor was going off with every hit of the flippers and I couldn't recall if this was normal or not? It just seemed to be more active then I remember, but I have been playing a lot of Diner and Congo and Goldeneye none of which have a shaker so I just thought maybe that was why it seemed so odd to me. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

-Tommy

No John Wart is another pinsider who posted about the warriors death in another thread first I was just giving him the credit for posting first. Any help on flipper shake motor question?

Shaker should only activate when the ball is in the pops, starting multi ball, and probably during a couple modes. But definitely not when just flipping.

This is my WWF to restore to glory. Cabinet is shot, so I will be building a cabinet from scratch to match the Data East Cabinet and doing a ground up restoration.

Wish me luck.

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Wow that's a lot of work ... do you have anymore pics of the playfeild?

What the hell happened to that thing?

Playfield and electronics are all in decent shape. Severe water damage to the cabinet. I will post more pictures as I progress.

I will be looking to find some high res scans of the cabinet/backbox artwork if anyone has those.

Thanks

Wowzers! Good luck with that one!

Pool game?

Heck, the original cabinet stinks anyways, I always thought it would be neat to see someone do a simpsons type cabinet with wrestlers on the cabinet. Just a thought if you were considering a different idea. Anyone selling one in the Midwest?

YEEESH! WTH happened to that thing?!?!? Hopefully the important stuff, everything inside, is in good shape. Was this Data East's only wide-body game? I'm just wondering how difficult it will be to find a replacement cabinet...

Any news on plastic repros or anyone will to sell some (just not the sling ones, I have those). Also, who saw the new company making plastic ramps? We all need to jump on there and get them to repro the left plastic ramp!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/announce-twisted-pins-to-enter-the-ramp-arena

Just checking in with everyone. I am getting ready to take a lot of pieces off my playfield to clean it up and replace broken pieces. We know that the plastic ramp is on it's way (confirmed by twisted ramps in a way). Still cannot find any plastics other than the slings. I would be willing to make some if I could get some scans (and do some for others that need it). Does anyone have the ability to make a scan/vector, already have some, or have any plastics they'd like to sell? Preferably the red/black ones along the left side of the playfield?

I was able to join the club yesterday. Picked up a nice example that plays great with a beautiful playfield, LEDs, prototype translite, and a few action figures placed throughout. A few minor tweaks needed here and 1 broken plastic but overall pretty sweet. I'm having a blast so far and everyone who has played it loves it. YEAH!!! OOOHHHHH YEAHHHH!!!

Amazingly underrated machine!

Is anyone able to get me High Res scans of the Cabinet and Backbox artwork? I need to make a set of decals for my restore project.

Thanks

Joe

Congrats!! At the Louisville Arcade Expo this year, that WWF in the free play area seemed like it had people playing it constantly. Once you get it dialed, in it plays very sweet.

Start Mode Scoop question. On my WWF, sometimes when i shoot for the left ramp the ball will clip the edge of the start mode metal scoop(the one just to the left of the main center ramp) with a loud clunk and bounce wildly to the left. I always thought it was odd that a metal scoop would have a bare raw edge (exposed side) on the playfield without some kind of post with a sleeve or rubber? Does anyone else have this issue? IF so have you done any fixes? I was thinking of putting some kind of anti-bounce out rubber on the scoop like Pinbits sells to at least soften the impact of the ball when it clips the raw edge of the scoop.
thanks,

I vectored one of the plastics and gave the file away in one of these threads. Maybe it was this one? Aside from the crowd plastic, these aren't all the difficult to reproduce in vectors (a lot of simple shapes and straight lines). I just don't want to take the time taking all of my plastics off and scanning. I'm kind of busy with other art work as it is.

Start mode issue: I don't recall ever having that situation happen. I rarely come near that scoop off the right flipper when aiming for the left ramp. Are you describing a cliffy protector? Maybe you can take a shot of your mode start hole so we can see if there is anything weird going on?

I really need to vector the red/black plastics (except the slings). I would be willing to do the work if someone can give me an idea on what to do?

Also, has anyone removed the mylar from the playfield/upper playfield? Any problems I should know (insert peeling, etc.) Thanks guys.

Ok, I've got a dumb question. Does the ball need to travel a certain speed to get credit for the right orbit wrestler shot? I only ask because mine does not seem to register if the shot does not go through quickly/cleanly. Seems weird to me especially since the switches test good. Speed does not seem to affect either ramp wrestler shot, just the orbit.

Mine only registers that shot sometimes it works every time in test node. Tried new switch too didn't solve it.

On mine, the shot won't register if you just limp it in and it dribbles out the other end. You have to make at least a half-assed shot that doesn't have a lot of bouncing around to activate. I have a theory that this has more to do with where they placed the switch on the shot than the switch not being sensitive enough.

With that said, I've found that after a few hundred plays, I need to adjust that switch. It eventually gets to a point where it will be hit-or-miss even with strong and clean shots.

Something unrelated: I brought up a question about upgrading to version 1.06 using the pinmame roms a while ago. For anyone wondering, the answer is yes. That rom file will work in upgrading your WWFRR to 1.06. I was able to get it to work just before PAGG.

Good to know guys. I seem to be in about the same boat where it is getting progressively worse. I'd say on a clean shot it works 80% of the time, otherwise not at all really.

New to owning, and I'm wondering, is it normal for the left flipper button to launch the ball as well as the TAG at the start of a ball or have I got something crossed?