LE #102 today!
Here's something to note:
There's a lot of discussion on the rear left corner being dark. Seems like that's the case for the SE models, but on my LE model it seems like the Wonkavator ball lock lights up that area pretty good, negating the need for pinstadium strips
Not sure if this was discussed of not (SE v.s. LE)
Quoted from VividPsychosis:
Regarding the diverter issue. Could we use the trick from twilight zone? A mild magnet taped to the inside of the diverter flap that comes down?
I already mentioned this a bunch of postings ago in this thread- I own a TZ and use the magnet method. haven’t heard of anyone trying this
Quoted from Schwaggs:
Where do you suggest getting neoprene washers? I don’t notice any rippling on mine but would like to avoid the issue if possible.
I bought these at Lowe’s today. larger ones (3/4”) for star posts, and smaller ones (1/2”) for the small posts. 98 cents per bag of 2
Quoted from wesman:
Did you take a photo with the 1/2" regular posts?
I need to grab some for Pirates.
the bag and washer, but not with the post. I had a star post laying out in my shop, so its in the photo, but not a small one.
small one for small posts is 3/16" hole, 1/2" OD and 1/16" thick
large one for star posts is 5/16" hole, 3/4" OD and 1/16" thick
this is what I've used, hope this helps
Quoted from SaintJonus:
You are correct sir, I forgot to mention I did also have to shave quite a bit off the inlane ring. Not the most cosmetic solution but it has worked great. The outlane drains are pretty much equal now.
I just installed the post, and moved the rubber from the inlane divider post over to it. works great. reminds me of TZ right inlane and outlane being divided by a wire instead of a post
Quoted from adamross:
I tried this, but when the ball dropped from the habitrail it kept bouncing over to the right inlane when it's supposed to be going to the left.
Something to note is I used the lower of the 2 screw holes for the outlane post, and kept the black cap on the upper one. Did you do this, or try to use the upper of the 2 holes?
Is there a link to the 1.09 ruleset anywhere? I noticed that the game didn't come with an owners manual, will one be delivered to us in the future, or available at JJP for download?
My LE #102 that I’ve had for almost 2 weeks diverts about 90% of the time. I’ve noticed that the diverter design is extremely similar to Twilight Zones bridge diverter to the mini playfield, and, sorry to say it but I really do not think that WW’s diverter will ever divert 100% of the balls. even after the magnet fix on TZ, some balls still get screwed up. In my opinion, with code improvements (mine was delivered with 1.09) it will get 95% maybe, but never 100%.
Anyone try a small weak magnet on the back of the diverter arm yet?
Wow, just downloaded and installed 1.10 update. Talk about fast and seamless! I really like my first new in box purchase!
Quoted from Adipocere:
Pat Lawlor and suicide bumpers are like peas and carrots.
The story behind these two plugged holes on Twilight Zone's Pop Bumper area is hilarious......
The following is quoted from Ted Estes write-up on TZ design process:
***Jet Bumper Posts – Some games have two posts with rubber rings installed in the jet bumpers. The history of these posts is a story of frustration for the design team. In designing Twilight Zone, Pat Lawlor wanted to try something a bit radical, and placed the jet bumpers very close to the bottom of the playfield. After experimenting with the jet bumper placement on the whitewoods, Pat decided that they weren’t too bad down there. Something changed (slight positioning differences of posts and jet bumpers, perhaps?) between the whitewoods and prototypes, however. The ball kept flying down the left drain any time it went into the bumpers. After a few weeks of listening to complaints, Pat came into work one morning, grabbed a drill, some T-nuts, posts, and rubbers, and installed the posts. The complaints died down until several thousand games into the production run. Now, people were complaining that the ball would fly out of the bumpers and straight between the flippers! Something else had changed (slight warp of the playfield, perhaps?). Pat decided to take out the posts, but leave the holes, and put the posts in the coin box for the operator to decide to use. Which setup should you use? Which ever makes your game play the best.***
I know this isn't a TZ thread, but understanding the history of Lawlor, and his approach to pop bumpers is a good thing!!!
I’ve made it to Wonka’s office twice, but have not yet gotten more than 2 tickets.
Maybe...... (just maybe......) The kid magnet over-heating has ALWAYS been a problem, and since the beginning, the diverter was programmed in such a way to intentionally miss on occasion, thus bypassing the magnet to let it cool..... giving us the "diverter only working half the time" thing..
Quoted from jlatko:
Can kid multi even be started when it fails? Not sure.
Yes, Kid multiball CAN be started when the magnet is in cooldown mode. Just hit the target with a right flipper tip shot. the ball will then just roll down to the flippers, and you can play while the animation is running. If you happen to then hit it to the wonkavision saucer, the saucer will then hold the ball until the animation is done, eject ball and kid multi is under way. I did this twice last night.
Quoted from KingBW:
I got one of those from Vegas and hung it from the ceiling grid above the pin and approximately over the apron so that there wouldn't be any glare.
Care to share a photo of this? Would like to see it. I plan on possibly using it as a pin topper, but may change based on how yours looks
Quoted from steigerpijp:
Hmmm.. after 500 games , seriously thinking of changing the left outlane setup..
I added extra post to left outlane, LOWER position (the one not capped) and MOVED small rubber ring from inlane post over to it.
THis works amazing, ZERO ball hang-ups on inlane and outlane, even when kick-back fires
EDIT: ppl are afraid of the metal inlane post, but its really no different than games that have inlanes separated by wires like TZ's right outlane (see image)
Quoted from smalltownguy2:
and p.s. to JJP: you people are evil for the way you designed the factory ramp shot - it's damn near impossible for me to hit it with the left flipper reliably. That shot is SO tough!!
Yeah, that's a TIGHT shot- reminds me of Dirty Harry's right ramp shot
Quoted from zaphX:
make a small mistake, hit the "death target" next to it, and it's over.
VERY well said.
Quick question- It's been a while since the latest 1.14 code came out, and I've held off on installing it.
For those who've been using it- Is it working reliably now?
Looks like JJP listened and Golden Tickets 3,4 and 5 difficulty will be adjustable? If so, that's GREAT news for ppl who aren't pinball wizards
Quoted from dluth:
This is madness in my opinion. Did you try playing around with the level of the machine first? I probably get 1 out 50 genuine SDTMs from the pops, and that’s without nudging. Yes, the ball is put in danger, but that’s what pops are designed to do! I’ve played 2 other machines and also didn’t get chronic SDTMs.
Me as well. About 1 in 50. I wonder what the game designer(s) intended?!?? I own a Twilight Zone, and the pop bumper situation on that game is FAR worse. I don't see people blocking the power playfield exit into the pops and creating a new exit on the side....
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