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(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside


By f3honda4me

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 5,999 posts
  • 395 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by tpoeckh
  • Topic is favorited by 166 Pinsiders

You

Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 107 votes
    27%
  • Limited Edition 213 votes
    53%
  • Collectors Edition 80 votes
    20%

(400 votes)

Topic Gallery

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Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #149 Deep Dive on features and all that is wonka Posted by pin2d (1 year ago)

Post #150 SDTM video on Wonka - interview with Pat Lawlor and Joe Katz Posted by ZMeny (1 year ago)

Post #160 SDTM gameplay video Posted by ZMeny (1 year ago)

Post #188 Rules Flowchart Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #248 Features Matrix - CE, LE, SE Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #554 Early Stream of a home owner who received their game Posted by Thegeekyhusband (1 year ago)

Post #785 Gobstopper subway VUK not ejecting ball fix Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)

Post #793 Gobstopper subway VUK fix pics for reference Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)

Post #1130 Latest code changelog Posted by LTG (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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10
#1433 1 year ago

LE #102 today!

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#1447 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If anyone has additional suggestions for this issue I am all ears.

On Twilight Zone, we use a mild magnet taped to the back side of the metal in which the ball bounces off of. This works 100% of the time on the steel balls, obviously does not work on the powerball

magnet (resized).JPG
#1449 1 year ago

Here's something to note:

There's a lot of discussion on the rear left corner being dark. Seems like that's the case for the SE models, but on my LE model it seems like the Wonkavator ball lock lights up that area pretty good, negating the need for pinstadium strips

Not sure if this was discussed of not (SE v.s. LE)

Wonkavator Ball Lock (resized).JPG
#1575 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Regarding the diverter issue. Could we use the trick from twilight zone? A mild magnet taped to the inside of the diverter flap that comes down?

I already mentioned this a bunch of postings ago in this thread- I own a TZ and use the magnet method. haven’t heard of anyone trying this

#1608 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Where do you suggest getting neoprene washers? I don’t notice any rippling on mine but would like to avoid the issue if possible.

I bought these at Lowe’s today. larger ones (3/4”) for star posts, and smaller ones (1/2”) for the small posts. 98 cents per bag of 2

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#1620 1 year ago
Quoted from wesman:

Did you take a photo with the 1/2" regular posts?
I need to grab some for Pirates.

the bag and washer, but not with the post. I had a star post laying out in my shop, so its in the photo, but not a small one.

small one for small posts is 3/16" hole, 1/2" OD and 1/16" thick

large one for star posts is 5/16" hole, 3/4" OD and 1/16" thick

this is what I've used, hope this helps

#1669 1 year ago
Quoted from SaintJonus:

You are correct sir, I forgot to mention I did also have to shave quite a bit off the inlane ring. Not the most cosmetic solution but it has worked great. The outlane drains are pretty much equal now.
[quoted image]

I just installed the post, and moved the rubber from the inlane divider post over to it. works great. reminds me of TZ right inlane and outlane being divided by a wire instead of a post
87865811-5C2B-4968-A037-FC2335267FBF (resized).jpeg

#1677 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

I tried this, but when the ball dropped from the habitrail it kept bouncing over to the right inlane when it's supposed to be going to the left.

Something to note is I used the lower of the 2 screw holes for the outlane post, and kept the black cap on the upper one. Did you do this, or try to use the upper of the 2 holes?

#1682 1 year ago

Is there a link to the 1.09 ruleset anywhere? I noticed that the game didn't come with an owners manual, will one be delivered to us in the future, or available at JJP for download?

#1824 1 year ago

My LE #102 that I’ve had for almost 2 weeks diverts about 90% of the time. I’ve noticed that the diverter design is extremely similar to Twilight Zones bridge diverter to the mini playfield, and, sorry to say it but I really do not think that WW’s diverter will ever divert 100% of the balls. even after the magnet fix on TZ, some balls still get screwed up. In my opinion, with code improvements (mine was delivered with 1.09) it will get 95% maybe, but never 100%.

Anyone try a small weak magnet on the back of the diverter arm yet?

#1827 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The TZ divertor is completely different.

Well, since both diverters create "bounce-backs" they're not completely different. they time actuation based off of optos triggering on the lead-up ramp.

#1903 1 year ago

Wow, just downloaded and installed 1.10 update. Talk about fast and seamless! I really like my first new in box purchase!

#1936 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Yeah the pop area needs alittle something to make it mo fair

Obviously no Twilight Zone owners here.... LOL!

#1953 1 year ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Pat Lawlor and suicide bumpers are like peas and carrots.

The story behind these two plugged holes on Twilight Zone's Pop Bumper area is hilarious......

The following is quoted from Ted Estes write-up on TZ design process:

***Jet Bumper Posts – Some games have two posts with rubber rings installed in the jet bumpers. The history of these posts is a story of frustration for the design team. In designing Twilight Zone, Pat Lawlor wanted to try something a bit radical, and placed the jet bumpers very close to the bottom of the playfield. After experimenting with the jet bumper placement on the whitewoods, Pat decided that they weren’t too bad down there. Something changed (slight positioning differences of posts and jet bumpers, perhaps?) between the whitewoods and prototypes, however. The ball kept flying down the left drain any time it went into the bumpers. After a few weeks of listening to complaints, Pat came into work one morning, grabbed a drill, some T-nuts, posts, and rubbers, and installed the posts. The complaints died down until several thousand games into the production run. Now, people were complaining that the ball would fly out of the bumpers and straight between the flippers! Something else had changed (slight warp of the playfield, perhaps?). Pat decided to take out the posts, but leave the holes, and put the posts in the coin box for the operator to decide to use. Which setup should you use? Which ever makes your game play the best.***

I know this isn't a TZ thread, but understanding the history of Lawlor, and his approach to pop bumpers is a good thing!!!

added rubbers (resized).jpgthese_2_holes (resized).JPG
#2020 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The pops are evil!

I will agree with you, but have you ever played a Twilight zone with super-sensitive leaf switches in the pop bumpers? The most ruthless of all games with pops IMHO!!!

#2087 1 year ago
Quoted from RhinoPins:and right behind it is 1.13

Wow. I didn't even have time to upgrade to 1.12 yet. Were there errors in 1.12 as well as the said change?

#2151 1 year ago

I’ve made it to Wonka’s office twice, but have not yet gotten more than 2 tickets.

#2163 1 year ago

Maybe...... (just maybe......) The kid magnet over-heating has ALWAYS been a problem, and since the beginning, the diverter was programmed in such a way to intentionally miss on occasion, thus bypassing the magnet to let it cool..... giving us the "diverter only working half the time" thing..

Hmmmmm........

#2172 1 year ago
Quoted from jlatko:

Can kid multi even be started when it fails? Not sure.

Yes, Kid multiball CAN be started when the magnet is in cooldown mode. Just hit the target with a right flipper tip shot. the ball will then just roll down to the flippers, and you can play while the animation is running. If you happen to then hit it to the wonkavision saucer, the saucer will then hold the ball until the animation is done, eject ball and kid multi is under way. I did this twice last night.

#2205 1 year ago
Quoted from Russell:Does it still say “I don’t know what’s going to happen?”

I get wonkavator multiball at least once every game I play, and I’ve had the game since 1.09, and it’s identical. is your game messed up or something?

#2296 1 year ago

I picked p a nice Slot topper last week... it color changes with RGB LEDs....

Wonka Topper (resized).jpg
#2305 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I got one of those from Vegas and hung it from the ceiling grid above the pin and approximately over the apron so that there wouldn't be any glare.

Care to share a photo of this? Would like to see it. I plan on possibly using it as a pin topper, but may change based on how yours looks

#2314 1 year ago

Ebay is where I got mine

#2367 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Installed the update today and the game crashed a few times.. anyone else seeing this?

To Me, 1.13 works so well that I'm holding off on 1.14.

#2382 1 year ago
Quoted from jlatko:

I tried pushing it out from under playfield a couple weeks ago, and couldn't budge it, so I gave up.

It's probably been swallowed by the gelatinous clearcoat, and is glued to the surface...

#2482 1 year ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Are all you guys paying delivery on top of the 9500 for the game ?

No, just taxes. arranged pick-up. Abel Electronics in Sterling Heights, MI

#2536 1 year ago
Quoted from steigerpijp:

Hmmm.. after 500 games , seriously thinking of changing the left outlane setup..

I added extra post to left outlane, LOWER position (the one not capped) and MOVED small rubber ring from inlane post over to it.
THis works amazing, ZERO ball hang-ups on inlane and outlane, even when kick-back fires

EDIT: ppl are afraid of the metal inlane post, but its really no different than games that have inlanes separated by wires like TZ's right outlane (see image)
TZ Right Outlane (resized).JPG

#2629 12 months ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

and p.s. to JJP: you people are evil for the way you designed the factory ramp shot - it's damn near impossible for me to hit it with the left flipper reliably. That shot is SO tough!!

Yeah, that's a TIGHT shot- reminds me of Dirty Harry's right ramp shot

Quoted from zaphX:

make a small mistake, hit the "death target" next to it, and it's over.

VERY well said.

#2630 12 months ago

Quick question- It's been a while since the latest 1.14 code came out, and I've held off on installing it.
For those who've been using it- Is it working reliably now?

-Dan

1 week later
#2727 11 months ago

Looks like JJP listened and Golden Tickets 3,4 and 5 difficulty will be adjustable? If so, that's GREAT news for ppl who aren't pinball wizards

#2780 11 months ago
Quoted from dluth:

This is madness in my opinion. Did you try playing around with the level of the machine first? I probably get 1 out 50 genuine SDTMs from the pops, and that’s without nudging. Yes, the ball is put in danger, but that’s what pops are designed to do! I’ve played 2 other machines and also didn’t get chronic SDTMs.

Me as well. About 1 in 50. I wonder what the game designer(s) intended?!?? I own a Twilight Zone, and the pop bumper situation on that game is FAR worse. I don't see people blocking the power playfield exit into the pops and creating a new exit on the side....

#2863 11 months ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

I was not satisfied with the sideart on the market, so i decided to do some Wonka sideboarddecals by myself.
After the first proto-print i needed to edit some elements in size and position.
I'll see on friday how the 2nd print will fit.

Those look great!

#2872 11 months ago
Quoted from wesman:

wouldn't "Wonka" on the outside of the windows be backwards?

Yes. I noticed that as well, but that might confuse children

#2896 11 months ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

Still some minor adjustments, for exsample the most secret machine decal or the backboard fits not 100%
And i'm waiting for Mezel's Factory Pipe Upgrade!

If you're selling, I'm in as well!

#2912 11 months ago

I will NEVER understand why people who are so hellbent on ripping "darkly lit" games don't just turn up the room lights. ??!????!?

#2982 11 months ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

Where? In the coinbox?

Mine was in a cardboard sleeve, in the coinbox. So were the screws that mount it (black)

#2996 11 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

attached to the outside of the box

Actually, now that you mention it- Thats where mine was as well. the black screws that mount it were in the coin box

#3048 10 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Look at his left hand.

Left hand?

2 weeks later
#3321 10 months ago

I have the same topper and this is where it’s from
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#3324 10 months ago
Quoted from HEAD_boss_HOG:

so, i have a Wonka SE. love the game so much
my game did not come with a GOODIE BAG. did all of your games come with one?

yes- INSIDE the coin box

#3367 10 months ago

I just noticed there's a 1.31 code update. Is this update necessary for LE owners? I saw in the release notes there's a reference to Collectors edition.

Also, its a "full install" rather than a "delta upgrade" why is that?

thanks!

#3386 10 months ago

Let me try this again-

I just noticed there's a 1.31 code update. Is this update necessary for LE owners? I saw in the release notes there's a reference to Collectors edition.

Also, its a "full install" rather than a "delta upgrade" why is that?

thanks!

3 weeks later
#3563 9 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

I like the Wonkatania backdrop. Bought.

Bought mine as well. Even if I don't install it, I'm glad to have if to future needs, maybe if I ever sell the game.

#3602 9 months ago

Early Christmas present!

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#3606 9 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

The thickness of that topper's plastic is good, I was thinking these would be much thinner. I like the artwork.

I agree. it’s very heavy and sturdy. The black back plate is stamped steel, not molded plastic

#3611 9 months ago

Installed the LE topper today. very nice

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#3613 9 months ago

well, I can tell you the topper settings in the game menu will NOT turn down the brightness even when you set it to. seems to be non dimmable LEDs in it

#3617 9 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Likely a software oversight. I'd tell JJP via support, but chances are they already know.

Thanks!!! I just set it to be off while in attract mode, and on during game play.

EDIT: Just wanted to note that I am running 1.32LE

1 week later
#3677 8 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Thanks. Tried this but still getting severe delay (or instances where it is just not reading the shot and the ball gets kicked out during ball search). I'll contact JJP. Maybe they can tell something by the logs, or perhaps this is an opto board they've had some known issues with.

Does it act fine during testing?

EDIT: Also, I could have sworn somewhere earlier in the thread someone else having the same problem, and maybe the opto is out of alignment underside of PF

#3691 8 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Sigh, if it's not one thing it's another.
Anyone having issues with inconsistency in the Saucer (TV) shot registering? I started seeing some occasional delays in the shot registering after a previous patch but lately it has gotten worse. It seems like the opto just is not reading that the ball is there a lot of the time. I watched my wife make this shot 3 times in one game tonight and each time it did not register. The ball got kicked out during the ball check but no credit for the Extra Ball/ Computer Award that was lit. I also had some delays during a previous game where it would just sit there. Sometimes hitting the flippers would "burp" it, but not always. This for 1.32 SE. I am wondering if it is a bad opto, or a possible software bug?
I am going to reach out to JJP, but I wanted to see if anyone else was having a similar issue, especially since they're likely closed for the holiday. Happy New Year everyone!

Just had this problem on Wonka’s Office. must be software 1.32

#3695 8 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Perhaps. I certainly noticed the problems immediately after a patch. That said, JJP support did not request any logs at this time. It is purely speculation, but they may know they had a bad batch of optos. I've had a few funky boards here and there on this purchase. The good thing is that JJP support has been great throughout. The hazards of early adoption!

What happened (for the first time) to me is that during Wonka's office, the ball was hit into the TV saucer, and the game just sat there. didn't even initiate a ball search. So, after about a minute, I opened the glass and manually knocked the ball out, allowing the ball to drain SDTM. then, the game just sat there. didn't even recognize a ball just entered the trough. I reached through the coin door and popped (manually) a new ball into the shooter lane and it autoplunged it. game then seemed fine. I did a soft reset, and started new games, and never had another problem the rest of the night, all optos seemed to work perfectly thereafter.

#3707 8 months ago

now JJP just needs to address the brightness issue for the wonkatania topper (menu controlled topper dimming does not work for this topper) and it should be good! too bright

2 weeks later
#3968 8 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

This happens for me with the Kid Multiball switch from time to time.

Because I am garbage at making that shot.

I was too for ever. It's the extreme tip of the right flipper, rolling down from the right inlane.
Do NOT flip the left flipper!!!!

#3999 8 months ago
Quoted from romulusx:

.The Wonka saucer shot is tough because it’s skinny and way up playfield

this shot is nearly identical to width and location of the ball lock/extra ball shot on Twilight zone. Lawlor to blame. Since I own a TZ, I'm pretty good at that shot, and can also make it on Wonka.

#4003 8 months ago

Anyone who's saying that the Wonkavator assembly on the LE and CE's are "not much to them" or "no big deal"....... Just take a look at this drawing. Seems like a big deal to me. Just saying....

Wonkavator-Dwg (resized).JPG
#4015 8 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

yeah, i LOVE the drawing sections of the manuals. it really makes you understand how one part from one manufacturer can hold up everything. there are 1000's (if not 10,000's) of parts in each machine.

I’m a product engineering CAD designer at Ford Motor Company working in Carina V5 on Interior components and assemblies. I’ve seen my share of drawings and these Jersey Jack exploded view drawings are excellent. very well done. look to be done in Solidworks or something of the AutoDesk nature.

#4023 8 months ago

My LE has the same empty plug

EDIT: Empty BLUE plug. There were 2 empty blue plugs when I installed my Wonkatania topper

EDIT #2: my JJP Wonkatania topper plugged directly into one of the two BLUE plugs.

#4067 7 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Normal (Default)
Scary
Freak Out
Gonna Be Sick

Mine is set to the most aggressive setting, and it's great. I can honestly say that it might induce a seizure in an epileptic person.

#4094 7 months ago
Quoted from pballjunkie:

Vibration from shaker motor is when it happened most or when rapidly flipping the flippers. JJP support top notch as always to the rescue with a replacement and we are going to be as good as new. Thanks everybody for your insight. We all love this game and are addicted to the just one more game.

This is great news that you identified and recorded the fix. Always a plus for future issues on other Wonkas. Thanks!

#4100 7 months ago

In the photo you posted, the GI is OFF, not on at that moment.

#4114 7 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

After a long time going back and forth, I decided to go with the LE.

Great machine. You'll like it. It definitely has more light in the back of the machine when compared to the Standard. This is because of the Wonkavator assembly. To me, (this is just my opinion b/c TZ is my grail pin) No wonkavator ball lock would be like buying a Twilight Zone pin without the gumball lock.

#4124 7 months ago

Not seeing anything in the release notes for update 1.33 to control the brightness of the Wonkatania topper.... Anyone know if they are working on it??!?

#4129 7 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

How do you like it? I have been debating getting one at some point.

It’s really nice, but since the brightness is high and un-adjustable at this point, i have it off during attract mode and on during gameplay. the menu has a setting for this

#4136 7 months ago
Quoted from Agima2000:

I use foil, which also helps the colors.

I shouldn't have to disassemble a brand-new $300.00 topper and modify it for something as simple as a brightness setting. Just like people shouldnt have to disassemble a $10,000 pinball machine and replace the entire playfield for "puddling clearcoat"

To me, this seems like an easy fix, unless non-dimmale LEDs were used to build them. Then they may have to do a GIOCD or LEDOCD-type daughter board that plugs in in series to rectify it if this is the case.

#4139 7 months ago

Just got notification back from Jen at JJP that the electrical design of the Wonkatania topper does NOT allow for the control of brightness. As I suspected, they failed to incorporate a circuit that would do this. (SMD LEDs by themselves are either on or off) That kinda sucks. Looks like I will be replacing it with my Casino Slot machine topper. It is WAY too bright compared to the game.

Maybe someone can build a board that plugs in series to do this? Maybe the LEDOCD guy?

EDIT: added a picture of my game showing the difference in brightness

JJP topper (resized).jpg
#4141 7 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Some of those Casino slot toppers look awesome!

Yeah, I bought mine a while ago, and am in the process of modifying it to go on top of the machine. I was thinking about selling it if the Wonkatania topper was dimmable.

Here's my slot topper. it color-changes.

Slot Topper (resized).jpg
#4143 7 months ago

I wonder if layering automotive window tint between the led chassis and acrylic sandwich face would do the trick?

Either 20% or limo 5%?

#4147 7 months ago
Quoted from jeffro01:

I'm seriously considering installing the additional left

Unless your game is on location to earn money, this post should be installed in order to balance the LH to RH outlane drain percentage. screw it into the lower of the two holes, and move the small rubber ring from in/outlane divider to over to it. This will balance the outlane drains to nearly 50%.

I believe this has been widely accepted on this Wonka thread....

#4168 7 months ago

here’s what my casino topper is from:

1BB9DDAB-52C9-4F89-9033-75C869D412CC (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#4352 7 months ago

quick question- Wonka is my first Jersey Jack game. I’ve noticed that the flipper gap between the bottom of the flipper and playfield is huge on all four flippers when compared to a B/W game, on which the gap is the width of a credit card (flipper gap tool) Is this normal? i’d say the gap on all the JJP flippers is at least 1/8 inch or more.

EDIT: when I refer to gap, i’m referring to removing the glass and grabbing the flipper bat and pulling up on it- that movement “play”

#4353 7 months ago

pulling the flipper bat away from the playfield

#4358 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

The up/down can vary a tiny bit from game to game. If they work great, I wouldn't worry about it.

LTG : )

Yeah, I was thinking that.... BUT... I've re-built enough B/W flipper assemblies as to where this really jumped out at me. I noticed the lower flippers were quite noisy, so I inspected them. I feel like they play a little sloppy when compared to other games. Thanks for the video Loyd

#4367 7 months ago

uh... the mexican comment was completely uncalled for, however, your video is EXACTLY the play in all 4 of my flippers. i will be tightening them up to the credit card gap

#4431 7 months ago
Quoted from davisjl1979:

Starting to go through the rule sets now and figure out how to get them tickets.

The ticket for Wonkavator MB is the hardest to get, then Kid, then Gobstopper. The first 2 tickets seem to be easy (Factory Tour, Gumball)

#4433 7 months ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

I wouldn't be entirely opposed to some more tweaking of the rules. I've owned the game almost since launch (bubble-post club members unite!) and I have still never gotten to Wonka's Office. Granted, my playtime has had to slack off lately due to work, but I still think that's a bit off. I know I could just put it on the new super-easy mode, but I'm not ready to go there. It almost seems that the "stock" rules would be considered "hard" on most machines. Maybe there should be some more granularity?

You don't need to put it on super-easy mode. Just go in and tweak the settings slightly to make the Office more easily accessible. I changed mine a while ago, but I light office after obtaining the 2nd Golden ticket. Not sure if this is default (makbe after 3rd ticket is factory settings?) b/c I changed it a while ago.

Have you ever gotten 2 or 3 golden tickets?

#4465 7 months ago

Is there a method to fix the damage/pooling under the ball guides?

uder ball guides (resized).JPG
#4473 7 months ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

What's the manufacturing date of your game?

July 2019

#4538 7 months ago

My Wonka LE has always had a problem with the left flipper making accurate RH ramp shots since it was new. It turns out after further inspection that it was shipped with two loose lower flipper coils. When I say loose, I mean the coil has slop between coil bracket and coil stop. The LH was worse than the RH.

The way I fixed this was to first remove the stops and coils (let the coil hang) then reinstall the coil stop only, and take vise-grips and gently bend the coil stop towards the coil bracket. WHat this does is it closes the gap slightly between stop and bracket that the coil sits in. Somewhere, there is a Vid how-to thread on Pinside showing this exact procedure for B/W games.

I then remove the stop, and reinstall boith coil and stop again but this time using threadlock. Rock solid flipper shots now very precise and snappy.

This procedure is what I do on all my flipper rebuilds for B/W games.

#4587 7 months ago

Interesting thing that happened to my Wonka yesterday....when you start a new game, with the ball in the shooter lane, the player could flip the RH flipper button and points would register. No idea where this was coming from. I managed to trace it to the upper RH flipper only. Using the switch matrix, I traced the problem to the Factory ramp Upper opto ramp enter. After I re-seated the plugs on the lower opto board (picture) It went away. It was intermittent, not every flip. All I could figure was the shock/impact of the flipper actuation was shaking a loose plug.

Anyone else have a problem like this??? Played for 3 hours with no more problems.

Opto Lower (resized).JPGRamp Opto (resized).JPG
1 week later
#4669 6 months ago
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:

I noticed on my PF that there were a few small bumps. You could see it if the lights hit them right. I tracked it down to a handful of screws (they connect the underplayfield subway ramp to the PF). I loosened them a bit hoping the bumps would go down. They haven’t.

Anyone else notice this? Should I be concerned?

Mine has this. They probably used the wrong screws on stuff under the PF. My game has an incorrect return spring on the lower RH flipper. Bought it brand new.

#4701 6 months ago
Quoted from Lrrr:

I recommend no foam whether it be a "tweak" or a "fix." (Again, thanks frobozz)

Wen I restored my TOTAN, I replaced all the switch foams throughout the game. for the switches behind each of the 2 captive balls, I cut the new foams back in half with an exacto knife for this exact reason. The new foam was too dense , and caused the switch to NOT register about 1/2 of the captive ball hits.

I didn't want to remove ALL the foam because I do believe that the constant pounding of the captive ball would bend the leafs in them. Since I did this, it registers about 98% of all the hits.

Just a suggestion.

#4734 6 months ago
Quoted from romulusx:

How did any B/W’s games make any monies in bar and bowling alley locations?

I agree. Addams Family is one of the darkest games ever, and seem to do pretty ok..... maybe because of the THEME??!?

#4738 6 months ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I was kind of being sarcastic

I got that sarcasm...... I really think that the whole lighting thing is blown way out of proportion. Someone on pinside said somewhere, if it's too dark, turn the lights on in the room. LOL!

#4767 6 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Right? It keeps us coming back every single day.

Every. Single. Day. GREAT game!

1 week later
#4790 6 months ago
Quoted from romulusx:

This would be a most excellent time for a code update for Wonka!

What else does it need? JJP already told me that the topper cannot be made dimmable with code, so what else is there??

#4797 6 months ago
Quoted from Gamer85:

So how is everyone liking Wonka so far? I havent gotten a chance to play it yet but the theme is great!

excellent game. No disappointment here.

EDIT: ....IF you get the luxury to play one that is set up fair, and balanced. 6.5-7 degree tilt with the left outlane post installed.

I played an SE on location at a place that was getting ready to host a tournament, and the table was at a 9 degree tilt with no left post installed. NOT a fun experience to the average player. ate my $$$ in a few minutes.

#4799 6 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I don't play with the left post installed

I had mine out for a while, but due to the fact that the pop bumpers fire a SDTM 1 of every 3 balls, I installed it. Definitely balanced the game out more

1 week later
#4840 5 months ago

Received my replacement playfield yesterday. it’s a beautiful thing. Nice job my distributor getting this done.

920AAF70-ED49-4069-BE35-095E55EA35BD (resized).jpegBABE62C1-8EAB-487D-A04C-345495067CDD (resized).jpegD39C7C76-2D90-4F1F-B3A7-B74E26E642D4 (resized).jpegEB00922F-C5A6-4D9D-BB84-DF7ED9AAB038 (resized).jpeg
5 months later
#5982 4 days ago
Quoted from jester523:

I just changed my flipper rubbers and now my left flipper is sticking sometimes. I know it must be something simple? Hopefully...

I've noticed that the flippers on Wonka (maybe JJP?) are sloppy, no matter what you do to adjust them. My lower two flippers had 2 DIFFERENT return springs on them, creating all kinds of problems when I took delivery of my LE. (last summer, early production)

The thing that seems different to me than other games is the vertical slop in the flipper hinge pole and flipper bushing. Tons of play when delivered, I then tried to tighten them up a bit using the spacing tool, but then they would bind, and hang when returning like your photo shows.

I have re-built/adjusted a lot of flipper assemblies, so I'm familiar with all the nuances.

It looks like you might need to loosen up the LH flipper bat's up/down gap slightly to fix that, or replace the return spring with a stiffer one, or BOTH, which is what I did with my game.

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