(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 13,971 posts
  • 676 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by DropGems
  • Topic is favorited by 257 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 132 votes
    24%
  • Limited Edition 289 votes
    53%
  • Collectors Edition 123 votes
    23%

(544 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #149 Deep Dive on features and all that is wonka Posted by pin2d (5 years ago)

Post #150 SDTM video on Wonka - interview with Pat Lawlor and Joe Katz Posted by ZMeny (5 years ago)

Post #160 SDTM gameplay video Posted by ZMeny (5 years ago)

Post #188 Rules Flowchart Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #248 Features Matrix - CE, LE, SE Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #554 Early Stream of a home owner who received their game Posted by Habermania (4 years ago)

Post #785 Gobstopper subway VUK not ejecting ball fix Posted by Lermods (4 years ago)

Post #793 Gobstopper subway VUK fix pics for reference Posted by Lermods (4 years ago)

Post #1130 Latest code changelog Posted by LTG (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider prentice.
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#10245 2 years ago

Evidence suggests you may not be the single pinball machine person you thought you were.

Just got my Wonka as well, so great! Perhaps a little too easy of shots? But seems great for newer players. Goes super well alongside my WOZ (medium difficulty) and Dialed In (harder difficulty). Will be a challenge to figure out which one to sell in the new year, maybe the Woz even though I think it’s the best overall pin package.

1 week later
#10260 2 years ago

New owner questions!
1. Why is the camera on sliding screws? Where should I tighten it down? It’s currently kind of loose but uncertain why it would slide at all.

2. When does the camera light go on? Not sure I’ve ever seen it even when streaming video which is when I’d presume it on.

3. Ball gets trapped above the right inlane. I’ve got it on easiest setting, I can slide it north a bit to prevent but curious if there’s a solution without widening my outlane. EDIT: Seems like this might have been due to a worn out rubber. Replaced and will see how that fares.

4. Not wonka-specific, but I either just caused this problem or noticed it: the shooter rod kind of rubs against the auto-plunger metal. Not sure what to adjust to fix.

Any other new setup tips to check for or implement? Looks like it could use a little Mylar at the wire form exits based on wear there.

Thanks!
6E007320-348D-406C-A209-BB996C9C9D6A (resized).jpeg6E007320-348D-406C-A209-BB996C9C9D6A (resized).jpeg

#10272 2 years ago
Quoted from prentice:

New owner questions!
1. Why is the camera on sliding screws? Where should I tighten it down? It’s currently kind of loose but uncertain why it would slide at all.

4. Not wonka-specific, but I either just caused this problem or noticed it: the shooter rod kind of rubs against the auto-plunger metal. Not sure what to adjust to fix. .
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Still unclear about whether to tighten camera down in glass position or back position and I can’t for the life of me understand why it should slide at all.

Also I loosened screws of shooter housing and was able to partially/mostly fix the rubbing, but are there any adjustments to consider for the auto-plunger? It seems a little off when looking at my DI. Should it ever be adjusted? Does it slide upward at all?

#10341 2 years ago
Quoted from prentice:

Still unclear about whether to tighten camera down in glass position or back position and I can’t for the life of me understand why it should slide at all.
Also I loosened screws of shooter housing and was able to partially/mostly fix the rubbing, but are there any adjustments to consider for the auto-plunger? It seems a little off when looking at my DI. Should it ever be adjusted? Does it slide upward at all?

Anyone able to advise on either of the above? I still have shooter rubbing the auto ejector, but can’t lower the shooter rod any further. Should I be finding a way to adjust the auto eject metal?

1 week later
#10454 2 years ago

My shooter rod rubs clips the autoplunger fairly regularly. I unscrewed shooter compartment and seated it as low as I could, but the top part still sometimes bumps the plunger. I couldn't figure out how to adjust the autoplunger -- is it meant to be shifted around at all?

IMG_1051 (resized).JPGIMG_1051 (resized).JPG
#10464 2 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

You need to bend the playfield hangers down towards the ground a bit to raise the playfield slightly when it’s seated in the lockbar.

Thank you, Vitty!

For future reference, I also received this related response from Ken@JJP on the topic, very quick response:

Try raising the lock down bar receiver.
It's the unit mounted to the front of the game that the playfield hooks rest on and the lock down bar latches into.
There should be two 1/4 inch phillips / hex head shipping screws, one at either end. Remove those.
Then there are 3 carriage bolts with nuts mounting it to the front of the game. Loosen the 3 nuts and lift the lockdown bar receiver to the top of the mounting holes and while holding it up, tighten the 3 nuts. This will raise it and should correct the issue.

#10586 2 years ago

Yeah that’s a little annoying that they use different phrases, it’s hard to explain to new players as-is, but I think they don’t switch them up. The center ramp I think is the camera ramp. I think left ramp always refers to gobstopper.

Quoted from jackd104:

Is it just me or are the callouts inconsistent regarding naming of shots? Sometime the calls “camera ramp” the “left ramp”? And sometimes “left ramp” meaning the actual furthest left ramp and sometimes that ramp is “gobstopper ramp”?

#10622 2 years ago

Recently my diverter mech has started buzzing loudly whenever activated. Functionally the game plays fine and as intended but I’m worried about the motor burning out or something. Here’s a link to a 3s video. Any tips on addressing this?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/nbsiyPdkbDT842S26

#10667 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Why not do "Charlie and the Great Glass Elevator" instead?

I think I read that Roald Dahl hated the movie so much that he wouldn’t sell the rights to the second book.

#10674 2 years ago

What should I even be looking for? I’ve got 3 JJPs and hear a lot of playfield complaints but haven’t noticed anything. Am I not looking in the right place? Are there typical pictures of the issues? Thanks

Quoted from smalltownguy2:

Unfortunately, it's impossible to know whether or not a particular field will develop issues. And many of them take months to show up too.

#10677 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If you don't see them don't go looking for them. Why make yourself unhappy?

I don’t want to misrepresent what I’ve got when I list them for sale someday, and I like being aware of potential maintenance issues.

#10681 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The wonkavision in the upper right. It's a big TV.

To add on to this, it’s the rightmost shot under the TV. The left shot under Wonkavision is called the ‘center loop’.

#10684 2 years ago
Quoted from rogerdodger:

Thanks, guys....
I had a feeling the TV might be the Wonkavision but why does the machine say 'shoot the TV' and, at other times 'shoot Wonkavision' if they are one of the same thing?

Trying to get audio variety, but I think they went overboard there. That TV shot is also called out as ‘shoot the saucer’ if I remember correctly. Sooo confusing for new players, and even still I have a hard time remembering some things.

1 week later
#10714 2 years ago
Quoted from seenev:

OK... But I read something somewhere about how they fill up when hitting stand up targets and when they're full, it lights extra ball. Is that true? They also have different colors... I just have very little sense of how to interpret them. I wish there was a definitive explanation of the rules by JJP.

It is remarkable that there appears to be no clear description of what’s going on in a lot of these moments! I’m glad I’m not the only one struggling to find answers.

#10733 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Documented pretty well I'd say.[quoted image]

It’s a phenomenal game, and that chart gives the high level view, but there is a ton of information omitted even from that chart. The website linked earlier contains some of those omissions, but not all. Let’s be honest here.

I get confused when it says shoot for flashing white green, for example, but I see flashing green yellow or some other combination.

#10758 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Have you seen my tutorial video? It's a little out of date (they relaxed some of the things that made it super difficult) but the overall goals/rules are the same.

thanks for sharing! I think I have used that to understand things better. Much appreciated!

#10761 2 years ago

Btw, I am a 3rd owner of an SE Wonka and saw the camera indicator / red light was out. Tried many ways to fix it, but ultimately realized it had been wired wrong from the factory presumably. Pulled a wire out and put it the right spot and now it works. Curious if mine was the only one.

#10777 2 years ago
Quoted from mostater:

Hmm... I'll have to start paying more attention because I haven't noticed the light working on my machine. I wonder if I have a similar issue. Unless it's very subtle, I think I would have noticed it turning on and off by now.

It’s a bright red light atop the camera and comes on frequently (any time it takes your photo when hitting that ramp). Let me know if you need help on a fix, I actually just looked at the adjacent connectors near that one and realized mine looked different. I pulled the black wire from one hole and into another to fix it. Didn’t even solder or anything, it held well on its own.

10
#10786 2 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Mine isn’t working… details would be appreciated!

Attaching a picture of the incorrect factory wiring. You can see the pattern of correct locations for the black wire is not the same for the camera LED. I was able to gently pull the black wire out and stick back into the correct spot as seen on these other two connectors.

E9216152-AEC4-4E0C-B3CF-193002450ABE (resized).jpegE9216152-AEC4-4E0C-B3CF-193002450ABE (resized).jpeg
#10794 2 years ago
Quoted from prentice:

Recently my diverter mech has started buzzing loudly whenever activated. Functionally the game plays fine and as intended but I’m worried about the motor burning out or something. Here’s a link to a 3s video. Any tips on addressing this?
https://imgur.com/a/M9kWd9r

Anyone else experienced this buzzing issue? Also it appears that the diverter just barely moves, even though it works as intended despite that limited motion. (I don't know what it normally looks like when diverting, though.)

https://imgur.com/a/M9kWd9r

2 weeks later
#10994 2 years ago

Anyone ever have their game just decide to end mid-game?

I had a kid multi ball going (and possibly gobstopper multi stacked), and then suddenly my flippers went dead, all the balls drained. As far as I recall, the screens weren't showing anything special, and definitely no Tilts shown onscreen, although it acted like it somehow activated the Tilt code. I didn't even have any tilt warnings, and my sensor is set at the easiest tilt setting, all the way down.

Fortunately it wasn't an amazing game, and I've not seen this happen before. I haven't updated the code in a few months, but I think it is the latest version as of late Dec.

#11025 2 years ago
Quoted from VinnyBlanc:

When you start a new game with “WONK” lit and hit the standard skill shot, shouldn’t the +1 factory advance portion of the skill shot trigger the “A” and qualify a factory mode next time the saucer is hit? I’ve only had my wonka LE for about two weeks but could have sworn this was how it worked originally. I know the skillshot is registering because I am getting the points associated with the skill shot, just not the factory advance. Maybe I’m crazy….. If not, any troubleshooting suggestions?

I was confused by this too. I think it advances one of the three factory tours, but necessarily the factory tour. See if either of the other two modes qualify for you.

1 month later
#11315 2 years ago

Fantastic game, but that's our biggest complaint too. Just feels like there's no way to nudge or do anything about it. I tried replacing the rubber next to the pops per advice here, but that didn't do anything.

Quoted from kempsuk:

Hi Pinside WW Owners
I used to own a WW LE, and kinda miss it... thinking about getting back in the club. My WW used to come out of the Pops and go SDTM. Do many of you still find this, was there a fix in code (not sure you can fix this in code) for this... or just suck it up and play better haha .
Thoughts on this?
Thank you

2 months later
#11621 1 year ago

I’ve been confused by that too, but never bothered to look it up. I hit spinner a few times and seems like eventually it says to hit gob stopper to finish.

Quoted from phill2cb:

When I play Fizzy Lifting Drink Room, the first level is left ramp and 2nd level says spinner/jets but whenever I hit the spinner and jets, it seems to register but never changes from that same shot. Is it supposed to switch to a different shot for levels 3 through 5? Or are all those levels also spinner/jets?
If I hit that shot 4 times, it seems like its completing Charlie, just seems odd to have all 4 levels as the same shot.

#11634 1 year ago

Lately I sometimes get a random ball added during gameplay. I’m assuming there is some trough opto issue, but I can’t see any issues when I fiddle with the trough connectors in switch test mode, and there are no errors showing. Anyone have suggestions?

#11638 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Balls magnetized and not rolling down the ball trough right ?

Not sure, I'll take a peek when it ejects one, but it's usually after I've been playing for a bit.

Quoted from naf_llabnip:

Same happened to me, occasional random ball kicked out, the problem was the ball trough opto board. I was able to reflow the solder (as recommended by JJP) and have had no further issues (almost a year later, knock on wood), but you can open a ticket with JJP and they will either trade one out or sell you a new one (not too expensive if it is not under warranty), although they may or may not have it in stock. This is pretty common with this machine.

Thanks! Was there a particular solder joint you reflowed?

Quoted from mikepmcs:

This and/or maybe dirt/debri. Maybe clean the optos with some swabs and alcohol.
Hope it's something simple.
r/
Mike

Thanks, will try that too.

Thank you everyone!

#11645 1 year ago

Thanks for all the info! I demagnetized all the balls and it still occurred. I just now clumsily tried adding solder to the one board, and first test game showed no errors yet! Fingers crossed!

Quoted from naf_llabnip:

Aaah yes those are the points. I was totally skeptical and my soldering skills are that of a 5 year old, but it worked like a charm right off the bat for me. I did not even have to remove the board! But if that didn't work, a new board would have been needed. Certainly would try cleaning the optos first as others suggested first
Just a little more info I found from my old JJP support ticket ...
"Go into Test, Device Test, 6 Ball Trough Test and with either the front door closed or the high power interlock switch pulled out eject the balls one at a time and catch them until all are out of the trough. Once they are all squares on the screen should be olive green. Then drop the balls back into the trough one at a time and see if the optos are registering properly. Continue until all 6 balls are back in the trough."
So in my case, at first all squares were green, but after the machine fully warmed up and I started playing, as soon as the random extra ball would eject, I would go into the test and one of the squares would start flashing to yellow. So that might helo confirm the issue. But again, the reflow can be done in about 5 minutes without even removing the board (do turn machine off obviously!). Good luck and keep us posted.

82093DFA-2254-41C9-9623-C403051367FD (resized).jpeg82093DFA-2254-41C9-9623-C403051367FD (resized).jpeg
#11655 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Just doing a tune up and cleaning today and had a couple of questions.Is there an agreed upon coil setting for all flippers?Also an agreed setting for sling shots and pop bumpers

I too am curious about flipper power. Recently noticed that both of mine will whine a bit when held. Power seems to be a little decreased, maybe related to it being hotter in my garage?
Also it universally seems quite tough to hit that captive ball sufficiently. I think it’s probably intentionally that way, but I’m always tempted to increase flipper power a bit from defaults. My machine is leveled to bubble just touching the second line. Open to any suggestions!

#11660 1 year ago

Thanks for all the responses, will experiment a bit! Is a low whine noise when flippers held not necessarily a problem sign? I can't recall observing that on any others, but I've been in this hobby less than a year and haven't really tested that specifically.

In general, is there a good reference (thread, or site) for "when to replace flippers"?

#11678 1 year ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Is the ball not rolling high enough to hit the switch, or not hitting the switch hard enough? I adjusted that switch to hair trigger - if the ball rolls up and just gently kisses it, it'll register.

I feel like glancing or my numerous slightly weaker hits simply don’t make it all the way up, but perhaps the switch could use adjustment.

I do believe it is intentionally designed to be a bit harder to trigger than other games, but I have wondered if perhaps I need to adjust anything. The inside ball is at a slightly off angle to the newton ball given the width of the tunnel and the gravity pulling it leftward, but my newton ball is firmly fixed and so I don’t readily see any adjustment to make. I still activate it decently in the game, I’ve gotten up to 4 tickets (with a liberal set of extra ball scores in settings) but the captive ball is so often unsatisfying to hit, and pretty difficult/impossible to do ever off the right flipper.

The Hobbit, Ghostbusters, and other captive balls I’ve played feel SOO much easier to trigger. I looked for foam but didn’t see any back there. Maybe I will try to make it a hair-trigger distance on the leaf switch. Thanks!

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