(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

2 years ago

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Topic Stats

  • 10,162 posts
  • 543 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by romulusx
  • Topic is favorited by 227 Pinsiders


Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 128 votes
  • Limited Edition 245 votes
  • Collectors Edition 114 votes

(487 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #149 Deep Dive on features and all that is wonka Posted by pin2d (2 years ago)

Post #150 SDTM video on Wonka - interview with Pat Lawlor and Joe Katz Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #160 SDTM gameplay video Posted by ZMeny (2 years ago)

Post #188 Rules Flowchart Posted by f3honda4me (2 years ago)

Post #248 Features Matrix - CE, LE, SE Posted by f3honda4me (2 years ago)

Post #554 Early Stream of a home owner who received their game Posted by Thegeekyhusband (2 years ago)

Post #785 Gobstopper subway VUK not ejecting ball fix Posted by Lermods (2 years ago)

Post #793 Gobstopper subway VUK fix pics for reference Posted by Lermods (2 years ago)

Post #1130 Latest code changelog Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#194 2 years ago

Plus you’ve got that Pirates to play

#199 2 years ago

Yes and they are two different lock sequences for different multiballs if I understand Keith correctly.

#315 2 years ago

Hog bog Eric is posting it all around wonka threads now too

#320 2 years ago

Sarcasm is lost on you
I want one too

1 month later
#481 2 years ago

A little birdie like Jack posting it on his Facebook page?

#482 2 years ago

First run is 150 SE some Europe some domestic.

#489 2 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I was just asked by my distributor to pay the remainder now, with games shipping in 2-4 weeks (but not guaranteed). This is a new policy by JJP to guarantee distributors don't cancel game orders.
curious if anyone else is being asked to pay now upfront before receiving their game?

You should have been there for the WOZ and Hobbit price structure wherein the game was paid in full a very long (you have no idea) time ahead of time. I won't speak for any distributors whatsoever but for JJP this pricing payment method (in place since DI) is much better so the customers don't have to have money tied up waiting forever for their game (excluding the deposit of course).

2 weeks later
#513 2 years ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

Anyone? Crickets? Supposedly in production for 2 weeks now?

What’s the question?
Yes they’re producing standard wonkas right now.

1 week later
#575 2 years ago
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#576 2 years ago
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#642 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I planned on doing it tonight but couldn’t figure out how to get the LCD monitor out for adding my capture device.
They changed the mechanism and I don’t see how it unlatches now.
Maybe tomorrow. Long day!

Magnetic - just pull forward on the monitor

#737 2 years ago

The ball can scoot up there and wedge - I know of locations adding a tie wrap or something to close the gap at the left end.

#836 2 years ago

Yes but 1.07 delta can’t ride on 1.02. He needs 1.06 first which I emailed to him.

#839 2 years ago

1.04 wasn’t handy for him either. You are correct that 1.07 will work on 1.04 also. I think 1.06 is headed up on our site soon just in case.

#841 2 years ago

No problem Chris
And by the way - in case anyone needs it, Wonka 1.06 full install has made it to our website.

#935 2 years ago

Similar games in a lot of ways. Wonka appeals to my wife more than DI but not by much. Neither my wife nor I are big fans of the Wonka movie but the game is fun and keeps you coming back for more. DI I like a lot also so both appeal to me.

#939 2 years ago
Quoted from PBMAN:

Just installed Pinstadium. I see there are 3 or 4 board plugs that say Spot Lights. Does JJP sell those. Do you only get those with LE or CE. Game to me seems really dark.

On Wonka there is a new kind of spotlight (for JJP anyway), much smaller. There is one that points at the gobstopper and a few more that plug into that same large LED board underneath the field. They are on the standard edition also.

1 week later
#1216 2 years ago

What’s with everyone posting my emails lately?

#1274 2 years ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Everything JJP has told me leads me to believe that this is the case. They are also aware of the air ball issue (the plastic Factory Ramp “roof”) and the more fragile Oompa Loompas, which should be getting an upgrade as well. I expect us SE owners who just COULDN’T WAIT TO HAVE IT will have an option for these soon.
On that note, everyone please make sure you have registered your game with JJP as soon as possible, and if you have crashes or mechanical issues, contact customer service and make them known. This information will make everyone’s life easier (especially yours if an issue is related to a bad board or other item) and is ultimately a lot more productive than airing out every issue on the forums first.

This is all good stuff and well advised. I'm finding out how they want to handle the left end of the trough and then there will be some kind of announcement - by that I mean I don't know if the fix in place for production now is THE fix or what they want to do but I will find out soon. So I ask folks to be patient on that; oompa loompas are being remade also and the material is changing from what I'm told but they are a few weeks away so waiting on that is necessary if you have a broken one. Same deal for the "guard" - we will be doing something with that also. The only thing of immediate concern is for those few that have had trough board issues and I would assume that most that have the issue have already contacted us and replacements are shipped or being shipped soon etc.. What he said above about opening support tickets if you have potential software bugs is good - the Chicago team reads and posts here regularly but if you come up against something that you think they should know, help cases will get forwarded on to them.

#1299 2 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

I am getting this Ramp Diverter - Lower malfunction most times when I start the game. When I go into the test menu, it appears to function best I can tell assuming I am testing the correct coil and that it is lowering as it should. See video below with test on Repeat.

I can call JJP on Monday but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts before this as I have a party planned tonight and want the machine working fully if possible.
Thanks[quoted image]

What happens when you play the game? Does it divert okay?

#1361 2 years ago

Actually all of our serial numbers start with 087 as it is the beginning of our zip code.

#1363 2 years ago

I am he - I’m the person you spoke to today.

#1365 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Well it would have been easier if you emailed him so he could copy and paste it here.
LTG : )

Okay that’s funny. Good one.

#1503 2 years ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Yeah no joke i still have no idea what lights slugworth multiball or what lights the super lock

Slugworth multiball is part of the Factory Tour group of inserts - it is in the top group of 4 and is qualified by hitting the captive ball. The group consists of 2x wonka bars, collect bonus, super spinner and slugworth mb. Hitting the captive ball will cycle through the 4 changing which one is lit next.

#1528 2 years ago

Check the power connectors and switch connector on the trough opto boards - wiggle them like you would a loose tooth - see if you've got a loose or bad connection.

#1619 2 years ago
Quoted from SheriffBarclay:

Did you ever get help? Nobody here responded to you, which is unusual and frustrating I'm sure.
Seems like Wonka has even more issues than potc.. Sloppy..


#1642 2 years ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Beware their shipping and handling fees. Apparently they ONLY use UPS. I got quoted $22 in shipping fees when I tried to buy a $20 ball cap from them.

USPS Priority is available also

#1683 2 years ago

Manual will be available for download from the website.

2 weeks later
#2072 2 years ago
Quoted from jlatko:

My Wonkavator mechanism when releasing balls for multi-ball, sometimes just releases the first ball, and the other two remain stuck.
They eventually pop out much later during ball search, or sometimes even while I'm still playing the ball that was released a minute earlier.
Is this a common problem, or did I find a new issue here? Thanks.

Change the timing on the release in the settings down to 190

3 weeks later
#2444 2 years ago

Sort of a very scaled down version of the TAF swamp

1 week later
#2627 2 years ago

Also the wonkavator release timing can be adjusted in coil settings.

10 months later
1 week later
3 weeks later
#5872 1 year ago
Quoted from atg1469:

What exactly is the difference between the full versus Delta upgrade? I'm guessing that since I'm so far behind in the updates that I'll likely need to install the full version and THEN the Delta but I'd obviously love to skip a step if it's unnecessary.

Full install re-writes the hard drive, delta just adds software on top of existing software. In the case of Wonka, if you are running software earlier than 1.31, you first do a 1.31 full install, then download the 1.33 delta and lay that on top using the utilities menu.

2 weeks later
#5923 1 year ago
Quoted from eb94114:

I recently got a Wonka LE and really like it, but I’m having an issue with the skill shot. If I get the ball in the saucer for the skill shot, the game doesn’t always recognize it. The ball search function then gets triggered after a few seconds, and the ball comes out of the saucer because of it with no skill shot acknowledged. Anyone having this issue or have a thought on what it might be? Thanks.

Check the connection at the reflective opto board in the hole. Clean the opto sensor thoroughly - it isn't a traditional opto, it needs to see the ball above it so make sure the sensor is clean and then it will work better. If it is bad, you can get a replacement but we have seen that cleaning it usually makes it work fine.

#5974 1 year ago

There is not supposed to be a rubber on that post.

#5976 1 year ago

No rubber on the post between the two In lanes for sure. Then on mine there is a rubber on the post at the top of the inlane outlane divider but an empty hole with nothing up to the right of that where another post could be added

#5977 1 year ago

In your picture earlier on this page the mini post rubbers are too fat also

1 week later
#6055 1 year ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

I hava a question:
when 3 balls are locked in my wonkavator, and the machine ejects the locked balls, the first ball comes in play but the second ball gets stuck (see picture)
The second and third ball will come into play after a ball search.
what can I do about this?
[quoted image]

Adjust the timing of the lock release coil in the settings. The setting controls how long the coil pulses, so adjust it so that the coil stays energized only long enough to let one ball out at a time. That setting is there for exactly this problem.

#6127 1 year ago
Quoted from riggy469:

Tried turning on my Wonka tonight, some of the red lights come on the board in the backbox, nothing else. No power to led strip behind backglass, no power to monitor or pc. Any ideas where to start?

Start with this - see if that is what's going on:

Also, if you pull out the high power interlock switch on the coin door frame (or close the coin door), do the rest of the 14 red LEDs on the I/O board come on?

2 weeks later
#6305 1 year ago
Quoted from Bowlingpin:

Maybe it got lost with all the new updates?
I sure hope they bring it back, it fits perfectly, a good immersive scene for the ball lock.

Very early code before all software was locked down and signed off upon by all parties in the licensing agreements.

#6310 1 year ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

I feel like at this point I bought a lemon off someone because I'm looking at another issue that I have no idea why/what is going on.
I have a bad opto switch, missing roll pin from the slingshot that just disappeared, start button light went out, pooling everywhere, and now my power just has completely given out.
I was curious why the back metal bracket was off the machine and when I tried to put it back on now I've lost power. I can hear something when it turns on, but I get no power to anything else. I've tried different outlets and my Dialed In's power cord and to no avail. My Dialed In works perfectly fine in all those scenarios so I know it's something in my WW.
Any ideas? Other than the obvious stuff please I wouldn't post an issue if I haven't tried everything I can think of.

Jump start your CPU board.

#6322 1 year ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

It's the Center Ramp made switch that has the metal bracket attached to it I don't even know if it's an opto, but it's under the Wonkavator so not easy to get to. I think it's not registering every time now so I def need to get in there and look at it. Problem is I don't know what to even look for or tweak so I'm hesitant in removing everything to get to it just yet.
They have another video on the test report and how to troubleshoot so going through that a few more times.

You don't have to take anything off to test it - playfield forward to rear set of feet and walk up to the back left corner of the game and you can reach down and test the mircoswitch. See pic and snip from Butch's manual.

IMG_3425 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2020-10-20 115413 (resized).png
#6357 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Finally got my game setup today and have been playing it all day. Plays perfectly out of the box.
What a refreshing and surprisingly good game, and I haven’t even started on the rules yet. Feels a bit like a refined Dialed In but with a great theme.

Fantastic. Have fun! Sometimes I forget that is what this stuff is supposed to be about...

#6359 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Thanks pinballomatic . Fun it is.
And when I say “surprisingly good” I mean I don’t know why it took so long for me to get one. Just slipped under the radar for some reason.

Makes it that much more fun right now if you think about it.

#6366 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I agree thats a little annoying, but its common on all their games

Gives harryhoudini something to do

#6368 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

It really is a great game.....aside from the lack of a wizard mode after the 3rd GT I have zero complaints....

Yes but the good thing for you is that you are getting a ton of mileage out of this one complaint

#6378 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I would argue that it's absolutely a part of the game now. I mean, "+1 Tilt Warning" is an award the game gives out.

On GnR I collect it as a mystery award often

#6408 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

You may have a hard time finding an LE. I had to call a lot of distributors to finally find one. Standards and CEs are readily available though.

Yes the factory LEs are basically gone but if you call Mike Fox In JJP sales I believe he has 1 or 2 left in stock.

#6412 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Whats the shot to the Computer? One of the ones under Wonkavision?

Yes the tv shot can award computer awards too.

#6414 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

So the TV shot is the one to the left of the ""!"" saucer shot?

It’s the one with the ! And extra ball arrow. Ball hooks around like the lock shot on TZ and lands in the tv eject saucer.

#6432 1 year ago
Quoted from teddyb73:

No. I live in Doylestown PA. About 2 hours and 45 mins away from Mike's place.

I have a sister that lives there.

#6442 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Yes. I have changed the settings for timing and power. I had the same problem.

In addition there is a setting for how aggressive it is about handling a missed kickback -

Screenshot 2020-10-30 085415 (resized).png
#6447 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Just set up my new Wonka LE. The left ramp diverted that gives the ball to the upper left flipper is giving me an issue. It activates but does not send the ball to the flipper. Like it’s not coming down far enough.
Before I go tearing things apart, I figured I’d ask if anyone else has come across this.

First question - what software version are you running? Open coin door hit black button once, look bottom right corner of the monitor. For that diverter behavior it very much matters.

#6448 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Just set up my new Wonka LE. The left ramp diverted that gives the ball to the upper left flipper is giving me an issue. It activates but does not send the ball to the flipper. Like it’s not coming down far enough.
Before I go tearing things apart, I figured I’d ask if anyone else has come across this.

If you have something early in code (earlier than 1.31) please install 1.31 full install (and then ideally 1.33 delta on top of it).

#6457 1 year ago

Jump start the motherboard. It doesn’t like partial starts like that - on YouTube or on our support section on our website look under support videos and then
Jump starting your cpu board

#6471 1 year ago
Quoted from tpoeckh:

I just emailed Jersey Jack Pinball requesting the leg bolts and felt protectors to be sent. Not a warm fuzzy feeling so far on a $9,500 purchase that is missing basic parts needed to set it up.

I'm looking at service tickets and emails and I don't see it. Where did you email? Can you send it again to me? [email protected]

#6473 1 year ago
Quoted from tpoeckh:

Hi Steve,
I sent it to [email protected]. I just forwarded you the email. Thanks.

That address I don't get copied on but I got your emails since and wrote you an order. Thanks

#6546 1 year ago
Quoted from tpoeckh:

Anyone have an issue with a gobstopper that doesn't spin? In coil test mode, and I can hear the motor attempting to spin but is unable to get it to go.

Make sure the screws underneath it haven’t come loose and aren’t dragging preventing it from cleanly rotating

#6548 1 year ago
Quoted from leaffan67:

Found this in the bottom of the cabinet of my new Wonka LE. What is it for? Thx
[quoted image][quoted image]

Shipping block. Mounted to rear inside of cabinet to keep heavy playfield from sagging and stretching the front forks.

#6589 1 year ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

My build date says July 2019. Guess it sadly sat waiting for me to buy this pin from Pinball Pro. Comical, my latest NIB pin is actually over a year older than my Stern JP that was my first NIB pin made in March 2020.

Good thing you got it though as the factory has run out completely now. Some distributors have them however.

#6593 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Are they done for good with producing Wonkas?

Done for now. Not necessarily for good, no. We have CEs but no more of the other models. GnR needed to hit the line.

#6603 1 year ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Just got my CE and having some freezing on the gobstopper hole disk that turns. You can hear the motor energizes but it will not move past the position. I went into the test mode and it turns both ways without any issue. Is there a setting I should adjust to add more power to the turn? Help ltg

Rotate it by hand w game power off if you feel more resistance in any one spot then it’s binding. Loosen philips screw at bottom of assy and free it up a bit.

1 week later
#6682 1 year ago
Quoted from Bbear:

I have got a weird new issue to deal with:
Today when I started playing the game I stumbled on an issue which I can't explain.
When I shoot the saucer the following happens:
- Right slingshot triggers
- A captive ball mode is started, even though no captive ball mode is qualified. If it is Slugworth MB, 3 balls get launched into play
- Kid MB is started with whichever kid is qualified (not collected)
- If the captive ball is at “?”, a captive ball mystery mode is started
And I get a random sequence of call-outs/music/lightshow it seems. I'm not sure about that one, since so many things happen at once.
I've tried a factory reset in the menu and did a full re-install of the 1.31 code.
Does anyone have a suggestion what to look for or to do?

Tests switch tests matrixed Switch Test
Trigger that opto with the pinball in the tv scoop (it’s reflective so it needs to see the ball). What happens? My guess is ghosting of all optos maybe? Something is going on. If ghosting or multiple switch reads, you can unplug the tv opto and try others around it. Experiment there. Check backbox I o board connectors on far right edge j200 201 202. Make sure pushed straight and cleanly on to pins and cables are under no tension. See what’s up and then post and we can go from there.

#6684 1 year ago
Quoted from Bbear:

Thanks for the suggestion! I have tried the TV eject and it triggers the full row of “return 1 j200-1”
The connector in the backbox seems fine. I have been moving around cables in that area to get the cliffy protector installed. But there is nothing under tension at the moment. What would be a next step?

Cliffy didn’t cut any insulation or pinch anything up there? Did it work okay before that?

#6686 1 year ago

Or insulate between there so it cannot touch ?

#6739 1 year ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

For #2 - Go into the switch matrix and see if that switch is being activated so the game knows the ball is there. I can tell you now, it's not working. Then move the switch by hand to see if it works. If it does, then adjust (bend) it up so the ball hits it. If it doesn't activate by hand, look underneath and check all connections.

It’s a reflective opto the only one in the game. You don’t want the ball to hit it. Wipe down the opto itself - it won’t work by finger because it’s reflective - it needs to see the pinball. Clean the opto and wipe down the pinballs.

#6740 1 year ago
Quoted from Elvishasleft:

I tried all that and the one I had just didnt work... it worked maybe a tad better but still hung up often.
Since it was a short term thing I wasnt about to rip it apart and see whats what.
Thinking of getting another one but obviously want to avoid that hassle.

DM me I’ll get you the replacement switch actuator if you don’t already have it.

1 week later
#6832 12 months ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Anyone else still waiting for their warranty Wonka playfields? I opened my case with JJP over a year ago, have checked on status since, told "I'm still on the list"...but still continue to wait with no updates! Mine is so bad the apron even dug into the clear down to the bare wood from the factory. I brought in my vendor (PinballStar) to the conversation, hoping they could leverage their relationship with JJP, and really no help from them either. Really disappointing for my first NIB pinball purchase, and honestly overlooked GNR because of it. Just trying to gauge if this is normal support for NIB warranty issues? I recall seeing some receive their replacements, but anyone recently? Feel free to PM me if you rather.

The reality of this is that the playfield manufacturer controls the timeline not JJP.

#6835 12 months ago
Quoted from mavantix:

The reality is I didn’t buy a brand new $10k warrantied pinball machine from a single playfield manufacturer.

Yes but a single playfield manufacturer is involved and is the one making the replacement playfields. That's what it comes down to in the end.

#6837 12 months ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I disagree, it comes down to JJP making good on this warranty one way or another. Right now they are just passing the buck.
Other industries don’t work this way. Imagine if you bought a Tesla and the screen didn’t work. Sorry Mr. customer screens are made by another manufacturer your SOL until they have time to make you a new one. Meanwhile they are cranking out new car after new car.
It’s bullshit, that shouldn’t be defended.

Fine. There is no debate here. The playfield manufacturer has been making and shipping in playfields and JJP has been distributing them. There are very few folks left waiting but there are some. The remaining folks will get the playfields they were promised. It would be different if half the people were still waiting or something like that but in reality there are not too many and everyone will get a playfield who is waiting for one. Beyond that the discussion is largely useless.

#6839 12 months ago
Quoted from mavantix:

PinballStar still advertises Wonka’s for sale, so there must be new playfields available? Someone is making GNR playfields. Perhaps we should all contact Mirco and ask where our playfields are?? Better yet, why isn’t JJP doing that?

There are new Wonka games that were already made with playfields in them. No Wonkas are on the line. JJP talks to Mirco every day almost. If not every day then several times a week. This is taking longer than expected but it is getting there. Last wave was POTC playfields so I would anticipate Wonkas next time but I have no control over it. As usual I am here trying to offer some perspective and reassurance and as usual it isn't helping. I understand if you are frustrated waiting but everyone will get a playfield that is waiting for one, that much I know.

#6843 12 months ago
Quoted from Shredso:

Obviously I'm dreaming here, but I think a better answer would have been-
Unfortunately the playfield manufacturing is out of our control. We realize this is unacceptable and would like to make up for it by sending a populated playfield when they are finally ready (this should have been the case either way).
It may not be your fault there is an issue, but it's still your problem. Offering no compensation, little communication and in the end passing the buck isn't acceptable. By the way, I'm one of the "Not too many". Ha!.

Think about that - suppose that was done. What happens to everyone who didn't get that perk? Were I one of the others I would be pissed. At the end of the day there is no point in my debating this - as usual I should have thought about that before answering but I was clumsily trying to help. Soon the playfields will all be distributed and then the next issue can come to be debated.

#6846 12 months ago
Quoted from mavantix:

I just came here looking for answers since the email chain direct with PinballStar and JJP has been radio silent, sans my one status inquiry in the entire time...I have been very patiently waiting. You can look through my entire post history, I've never once questioned this experience here, or anywhere public. I didn't come here to start a fight, but put yourself in my place though, and imagine this was the factory tour you got with your winning golden ticket?
I'm sorry, I'm not sure we've met yet you use my real name...who are you?

Steve Zamonski
You and I have talked and emailed several times. I have answered your questions on this issue before.

#6848 12 months ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Ahh. Thanks for all the info. Yep, you sure have, the last two emails I have from you on Oct 23, 2019 and Aug 25, 2020 ... looking forward to the resolution.

And I went back and took your name out of the earlier post. My mistake.

1 week later
#6902 11 months ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I saw that as well, because I have that topper. It now sits in a box in my parts room because its like the lamp on a lighthouse.
They guy you are referring to took it all apart and put window tint or something (film) inside of it in between the acrylic layers in order to dim it. Not a damn thing you can do about the LEDs.
EDIT: What I find amazing is that the game has "topper dimming" in the menu. ?????? I understand that the CE has a topper that is delivered with the game, and maybe that setting works on that one, but why would JJP offer an "OEM" Wonkatania topper that does NOT utilize dimmable LED lamps in it? Stupid if you ask me.

You explained it. Setting is in there for the CE whereas the LE topper was done by someone else vendor wise. Dumb notwithstanding

#6906 11 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Everything in JJP games is made by someone else so not sure why this topper is any different.

Not true but whatever. I’m sure the software guys were programming for the CE and the LE topper came along later. Not that I don’t see the point being made because I certainly do.

#6908 11 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I'm curious as to what isn't true...if this is simply a software issue hopefully the programmers address at some point

We have vendors make stuff of course. There’s a distinction between say something designed by us in house like the CE topper and something that was added later after the production design was over - say like Joe from laseriffic making a hobbit topper where we hadn’t done one. Of course we had to submit the art to Warner so it could come to existence but to me that’s different - the LE WW topper is much closer to the latter than to the former.

#6910 11 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Got it....its still a JJP OEM part so it should come with some level of support. Do u know if its a hardware or software issue with the topper? If its a software issue hopefully its on their list of things to address if they ever come out with another update

Honestly not sure

#6911 11 months ago

oh and Wonka needs the wifi enabler update so it will get that for sure

#6912 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

oh and Wonka needs the wifi enabler update so it will get that for sure

Plus the bug fixer for chase ball that’s coming

#6944 11 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

New to the club. Had my Wonka LE for a week now and loving it. Only issue so far is the the captive ball plastic (04). Looked on JJPs site and didn't see any replacements.
What options are there to replace or reinforce this plastic?

Open a service ticket on our website and we can send you one.

#6962 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinchild:

Almost every time I going to gobstopper ball gets stuck it is driving me mad please advise.
Thanks all

Bend up the end of the actuator on the microswitch at position 51. Also bump the side kicker coil power as Lloyd suggests.

2 weeks later
#7087 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Today on my LE's test report I got a message that the Elevator Diverter has a malfuntion detected. And when we played the game, and the Super Lock was lit, it would never kick up to the wonkavater. It would just roll into the pops. It would register as a super lock, but the ball wouldn't go up. Has anyone experienced this? I tried checking the device but when I rolled the ball through the right loop, only the elevator diverter registered yellow. Not sure what to do to fix it, any advice woul be much appreciated. Thank you!

Game flags it as defective if it hasn't seen it in awhile. What I would do is open the diverter by hand while in test report and see if the EOS switch is reading. If it is, the error should go away.

#7089 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Thank you for the advice. I can't figure out how to get my hands into that wonkavator diverter area because of the plastic ramps over it. Do I need to remove the ramps to do that?

Try reaching it from below the playfield.

#7092 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

So, I lifted the playfield and I tested the elevator diverter coil and switch and they seem to be working. But I am sad to say I don't know where the actual diverter is on the playfield side. Am not sure where to access it from under the playfield. Sorry, I tried finding it in the manual but I couldn't pinpoint the part I'm supposed to open. Any other info would be really appreciated. Thank you.

Lower left corner - looks like a flipper mech. Dedicated switch test to see if the EOS switch works.

IMG_3662 (resized).jpg
#7094 11 months ago

Spinner switch working? How about the right orbit switch?

Screenshot 2021-01-09 000418 (resized).png
#7096 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Yes, just tested those manually and they are both working.

Okay so the diverter coil works and the EOS switch - is the diverter itself loose? By that I mean if you move the pawl from below, does the shaft go with it or is it slipping in place?

#7098 11 months ago
Screenshot 2021-01-09 002359 (resized).png
#7100 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

When I ran the test at first it all worked. Then when I went back to test report it still says there was an elevator diverter malfunction. When I tried running the test a few more times, the Elevator diverter lights yellow and the ball just rolls through under the wonkavision and doesn't go the wonkavator to test the rest of the switches.

You have the high power interlock switch pulled out so the coil can fire?

#7102 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

I closed the coin door so it could fire, do I need to do something else?

No that will work. When you run the test, what specific boxes light up or do not light up?

#7104 11 months ago

Does the diverter coil fire when that happens?

#7107 11 months ago

Mine runs through the test fine - are you running 1.33 software?

#7109 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

No, 1.31.
I will try an update and see if it helps.
Thank you for all of your patience and helpful advice. I really appreciate it.

1.33 delta remember - just goes on top of the software you have.

#7112 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

Okay, I can see the problem now. I can move the wonkavater diverter open manually without a problem, it opens all the way. But when the coil fires, the diverter only opens a few centimeters. Not sure what to do to fix that issue. Nothing is physically blocking it.

Could it be dragging? That is, too low over the bushing just like a flipper gets if not gapped properly?

#7114 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

That could be it. The assembly does seem to be sliding a bit too far down. And when I push it back up and test it seems to open all the way one time. And then go back to barely opening. Is there was way to tighten this?

Yes it's like a flipper pawl. Gently loosen the 3/8" nut just a bit, tap the post up so that it is higher above the bushing, and re-tighten. You want a gap of really no more than 1/16" or 1/8" at most so that it cleanly travels without too much up and down room to flop around. Feel the gaps on the flippers by picking up the boot as if you were going to lift it straight up off of the playfield - that's all the room you want. Adjust the post on the diverter so it feels the same height as best you can.

#7115 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Yes it's like a flipper pawl. Gently loosen the 3/8" nut just a bit, tap the post up so that it is higher above the bushing, and re-tighten. You want a gap of really no more than 1/16" or 1/8" at most so that it cleanly travels without too much up and down room to flop around. Feel the gaps on the flippers by picking up the boot as if you were going to lift it straight up off of the playfield - that's all the room you want. Adjust the post on the diverter so it feels the same height as best you can.

If you like, Butch did an excellent flipper basics video which covers up/down gapping as it relates to flippers and that's the same idea for your diverter. JJP website - support - downloads - support videos. It's on our youtube channel too.

#7118 11 months ago
Quoted from Joeymonkey:

You are a genius! Thank you so much for all your help, Pimballomatic! You are awesome! I am so relieved! After a sleepless night trying to puzzle through what was wrong I thought I would have to call in a technician. Thank you for being so patient and kind.

That's what I'm here for no problem. Glad you got it working.

#7119 11 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Ok I've done updates before, but can't seem to do it now. I'm on ver 1.26 so I need to do the full install of 1.31 (and then I can do the patch to 1.33). I went through the steps:
UNETBOOTIN starts installing the iso, and at the very end it asks if I want to install the linux system again (so I press yes to all). All the files are on the usb stick, I put it in my machine and boot, and it doesn't do any updating. Even tried doing a full formatting of the usb stick first just to be sure.
Guess I need to try rufus?

Try plugging the stick into the bottom of the motherboard bypassing the long usb extension cable in case it is flaky.

#7122 11 months ago
Quoted from eb94114:

I know this has been addressed before, but I was wondering if someone can give me even more guidance. I have the occasional issue with the gobstopper subway, namely that a ball goes down and is not detected to kickout from the VUK. The game just stops, essentially, until the ball search initiates and then the ball comes out into the shooter lane. I have increased coil strength to 20, and it still occurs.
I saw the posts about shortening the coil sleeve length. How would I know if it is too long, and does anyone have a picture of exactly where I would need to shorten it, and how? I am not a mechanically gifted person, but I would like to try to fix this. Thanks so much for any help.

The other thing is to bend up the actuator on the microswitch (sw 51) at the end of the plastic subway. You don't even have to take the switch off the playfield, just gently pull the actuator down below the playfield with the playfield flipped up, hold the hinged part closed and gently push up the other end so that it is higher and thus the pinball closes the switch sooner giving the game a better shot at kicking the ball over. That fixed it on mine and for many customers.

#7132 11 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

They are to let you know where to set your phone. No where near bright enough to act as a flash.
LTG : )

Correct the flash topper on the DI SE was used for that purpose

#7135 11 months ago

Only the DI SE - not the LE and CE - used the flash topper, the idea being that the SE would be the model most likely to reside in a dark bar.

#7138 11 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Problem with my flipper button on right side. The button has a click to it many times when pressing. Like a little resistance i have to press through to hit the flipper. Almost feels like theres a little piece of plastic rubbing in there. Ive felt that on other pins before as well. Just need a new button?

Separate the button from the housing and file it

1 week later
#7196 10 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Can't thank you enough for this detailed and thorough walk through on the kid multiball and obtaining that Golden ticket. How you highlighted and explained the backglass animation Completely makes sense now and really helps understand the progress. Strongly suggest a look if anyone wants to get a more detailed understanding of this amazing game. Thanks so much for doing this!!!

I wholeheartedly agree with this - zaphX did an awesome job with this video.

#7223 10 months ago

Clean the reflective opto with isopropyl (medical) alcohol. Put shiny pinballs in the game

#7226 10 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

pinballomatic Any ideas on my issue? I do have an open ticket with Ken. Case #7937. I can certainly wait for his reply. Just figured I’d pick your brain.

Bypass the ground loop isolator in case that's the problem. Just plug the audio cable directly into the motherboard and sound board.
If your game doesn't boot up try jump starting the motherboard

#7228 10 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Great video. Thanks for sharing. That got my game booted.
I bypassed the ground loop isolator. That fixed it. I need a new ground loop isolator. Damn it sounds bad without that isolator!
You the man. I’ll respond to Ken and ask for him to send a new ground loop isolator.

Okay no problem glad I could help. Ken is the very best of the very best.

#7236 10 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

My guess is there is no way they sold 5000 units, but rumor has it they stopped production on Wonka's so I wouldn't hold my breath on getting one anytime soon. That doesn't mean at some point they won't do another run, but its anyones guess. Their pretty busy pumping out GNR's and they have their next title I assume they want to launch this year...

This is pretty much it - there are still some NIB CEs at the factory. More WW LE or SE could be made later on.

#7245 10 months ago
Quoted from I_See_Pin_People:

Just received our NIB Willy Wonka SE today. Unboxed and set it up and the Gobstopper spinning toy and gobble hole aren't working. When I go into the testing menu it says: Gobstopper Hole - Check device. Malfunction Detected. When I go to test it the gobble hole doesn't rotate at all. When we play the game it seems to still lock balls when hitting the Gobstopper target, but it's not physically collecting the balls. So...that sucks! Any ideas or should I just go straight to my distributor and start the repair process?

Check the yellow plug that runs to the gobble hole motor. Check all plugs on the I o board behind the monitor as they can pull off or get stretched in moving and shipping the game. Check all 14 fuses on the I o board. My guess is you will find a harness back there unplugged.

#7247 10 months ago

Does the gobble hole move and orient itself now when you power up the game (think twilight zone clock)?

#7248 10 months ago

Those switches are flagged red simply because the game hasn’t seen them hit in awhile since your gobble hole hasn’t been moving while you’ve been playing.

#7290 10 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I’ve got 1.32CE code. Do I need to do the 1.33 delta update, it says it needs to go on over 1.31 or 1.32, but doesn’t say anything about 1.32CE. Just want to be cautious.
Did anybody install the extra post on the left out lane or slide the posts down on the right out lane? Does it make a big difference? The out lanes aren’t terrible so thinking I won’t but just wondering if it makes a huge difference.
Loving this game, might be my favorite. Can’t figure out why it’s not rated better.

CE is just identifying your game model. 1.33 software is fine to install on 1.32.

#7324 10 months ago
Quoted from darkryder:

What are the code or call out differences with the CE vs the LE? I heard the CE has additional call outs and video clips? Would be cool if something like pinbrowser became available for JJPs to unlock unused assets in the game code. I’m enjoying the game so far, but it does get repetitive after a while and more audio and video clips from the movie would have been nice.

Veruca did custom call outs for the CE.

#7327 10 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I have a small issue where my headphones only get sound to one ear. A while back people said I just needed to flip the connector inside the cabinet.
Does anyone know which connector that is?

At the headphone jack board. Turn it around 180 degrees

#7329 10 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Yes, but which connector is it to turn 180 degrees?? Or is there only one? Sorry, Im not in front of my machine right now.

There is just the one from the long harness. Other end plugs into the motherboard.

#7361 10 months ago
Quoted from joefox22:

Anyone experience issues with the Gobstopper mech in this way. Sometime if the ball hots the gobstopper target too hard it seems that the front plate moves too far forward and the rolling leaf of the cherry switch flips up above the plate and gets stuck

Yes it happens. Bend the actuator down a touch so it can’t pop up as high.

#7405 10 months ago
Quoted from Troostr:

Just joined the club! I bought my buddy's LE, #474 here. When it left his house via STI, the camera and Oompa which had already been repaired were as they should be. Upon un blanketing my new prize, the Oompa was in the ball trough and the camera had a gangster lean. On top of that, which I figure I can just order a new part hopefully, when I powered on the game after installing the balls and righting the camera, the monitor said "no signal" then when to power saving mode, the only lights to turn on were the back box led strip, then it sounded like it turned off, then tried to power up again. I turned it off, checked my plugs, and the plugs behind the monitor (all tight). I turned it back on to nothing but the board had leds lit on it, that's it. Fuses all checked good. I'm stuck anyone had this? Am I missing something?

Try jumping it

#7410 10 months ago
Quoted from Troostr:

Awesome! Thanks! Game is up and playing, but no play field lights on or under. Game plays and scores, just no play field light. Any pointers?

Check the mini-usb connector at the BAG board - reseat with game power off. It is easily jostled. I will attach a picture

BAGbdminiUSB (resized).JPG
#7412 10 months ago
Quoted from Troostr:

Still nothing. What's next? You're awesome btw. I really appreciate the help!

Power off, unplug and re-plug all USB cables from bottom of motherboard one by one, power up again.

#7416 10 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Out of curiosity, what does BAG stand for?
Bad Ass Game?

Bus, accelerometer & GI controller board

#7417 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Bus, accelerometer & GI controller board

Replaced on GnR by the Playfield Controller Board

#7427 10 months ago
Quoted from Troostr:

I went and double checked the mini usb, and figured I’d make sure all the other plugs were seated well and found the one circled was very loose.
All good now Thank you very much!!
Any chance to can point me in the direction of ordering another Oompa Loompa and camera? Mine had had its last repair I think. [quoted image]

Send me a message with your contact stuff or just email me directly [email protected]

#7438 10 months ago
Quoted from alphadiesel:

Finally joined the wonka club! I purchased an LE! This is my favorite game by far with game play and rules. I am having one issue and that’s when I get a ball into the gobstopper lock, some times it just sits in there and I have to wait for ball search to find it. Any suggestions on how I can fix this.
[quoted image]

Yes there is a microswitch at sw #51 at the end of the subway underneath the gobstopper path before the ball reaches the lock optos and the VUK that kicks the ball back to the shooter lane. The actuator on that switch may need a bend up so that the ball closes it properly. Also, increase the side kicker coil strength in settings to 20. Also, check the entire path of switches in matrixed switch test by rotating the gobble hole down to the 6:00 position, then stopping it there and dropping a pinball by hand into the hole while in matrix switch test. You can then watch the ball close the switches as it travels down to the VUK. Make sure all are working correctly.

2 weeks later
#7599 9 months ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Hey guys my game is acting weird at that magnet ball shot from the left
Flipper , the magnet keeps holding the ball until it goes into ball search any ideas ?

Could the magnet core be sitting a bit too low so that the ball is actually just resting there on the lip?

#7680 9 months ago

Check connector J200 on the I O board (white wires) - my guess is that the harness got pulled a bit and pin 8 isn’t making good contact (connector is cocked) - monitor is held in place by magnets on the top corners. Pull it forward and check the three connectors on the right edge of the I O board. You’re missing that row on the matrix.

#7683 9 months ago

Now activate them if they work the errors will clear

4 months later
#9130 4 months ago
Quoted from Animal:

Hi All, Im a new owner of a WW. Looking at a test report it says ball trough #5 and #4 are stuck open. Game seems to play fine until a ball is physically locked: when I put a ball in the elevator. When I do this, 2 balls are released into the plunger lane. Any idea how to fix this? I have re-seated the wires to the optical board of the ball trough, but that didnt do it. Thanks! PS, first JJP too, so feeling like a newbie...

You can pull the transmitter board (closest to the front edge of the playfield and easy to remove) and reflow the solder on the pads (there are not many components on the transmitter board) if you are comfortable soldering. That should solve the problem. Some trough transmitter boards during the WW run had insufficient solder on the pads during manufacturing.

1 week later
#9215 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Then please go to the website and open a support ticket to see if the software guys have an answer.
LTG : )

Email [email protected]
For all the beta code related stuff. They keep that separate from the tech support help desk

#9290 3 months ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

Still searching for the adjustment in the settings after the update, where i can switch the color of the score-display from red to yellow.

It’s in the system settings I believe

#9322 3 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

So, this might be a dumb question. But is the new code of 2.0 (which changes A LOT from what ive read on here), now considered the "official" code?


#9352 3 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Did you just reflow the pins to the LED’s or the entire board ?

Just behind the legs on the transmitter board. That's the board in front closest to the front edge of the playfield.

Transmitter Board Solder Connections (resized).jpg
#9373 3 months ago
Quoted from Nameim:

The one that sends the ball to the Wonkavator. There is a flap that is supposed to extend across the lane and send the ball to the VUK that kicks the ball into the Wonkavator. The flap on mine is only open 1/4 of an inch or so which allows the ball to continue into the pops or to clunk against the partially open diverter flap.

It works like a flipper mech so look underneath to see if it is gapped correctly above the bushing. If it's too low it will drag and therefore not move properly or open far enough.

diverterwonkavator (resized).jpg
1 week later
#9408 3 months ago
Quoted from Goyomex:

Could use some guidance. My WW isn’t powering up. Checked the AC connection to the wall and the back of the pin - no issues there.
I was out of town last week so one of my kids likely got us to this point (and failed to tell me).
Any suggestions on Where I should look first?
Thanks in advance.

1 month later
#9694 60 days ago

It'll be the same as all the prior production LEs.

#9758 54 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Thanks for all the tips. I was directed to the correct link on the website and Ken reached out to me this morning and handled it. He was great! Awesome customer service.

Ken is the very best.

1 week later
#9825 42 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Cracked the box open and pulled the placard... it says LE #357.
Did JJP only build 300-350ish in the original Wonka LE run??

No, many more than that; game numbers are in no particular order. Obviously 357 just wasn't used during the first run so it was available.

#9873 36 days ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

What’s the point of the uninstalled post?

Optional - installing it makes the game easier as it makes saves easier on the left outlane.

#9912 35 days ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Where can you buy an LE Topper? Can anyone share a link please?

Mike at Automated in Conn. has some I think.

#9942 31 days ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Can anyone point me on how to get rid of this error...[quoted image]

D27 flagged by machine most likely because it hasn't seen it in a while. Open coin door and push tilt bob against its ring while on this screen and the error will go away once the game sees that the switch does indeed work.
Look at the top left corner of your gobstopper "shield" target. That microswitch is supposed to be normally closed and then opened by the ball hitting the shield. The switch actuator can pop up and get stuck behind the retracting shield target. Check and see - you may have to free it and then adjust the arm down so that it rests lower when it is at rest.

#9943 31 days ago
flapperforwardannotated (resized).png
#9947 31 days ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I just moved it back and forth a few times as shown in the video. When I booted up next the error was gone. The switch was not stuck, it looked fine. Not sure why it would give me that error. I can see it's normal state is "closed". Do I have to make some sort of adjustment so that it's a bit tighter?

If a series of balls had been played without the target being hit, the game will flag it to be checked the same as your tilt bob.

#9970 25 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Dang. Ok first chink in the armor. So I’m about 50 games in and now when it goes in the TV Saucer it stays there and doesn’t come out until it does a ball search. This can be on a skill shot or if I hit the TV shot during the game. Any suggestions?[quoted image]

Check the connections and clean the opto - it needs to see the reflection of the pinball. Not a traditional style opto.

#10034 19 days ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

Got it. I changed my plunger to a gobstopper. Looks cool but not so practical so maybe I’m midplungling more and not realizing it. It also does it on some shots into the wonkavator but I thought previously I only did it when

Plunge as well as during the game. Any idea what would cause it or how to fix? Ugh, second issue and it hasn’t even been a week. First was tv saucer opto but they sent me a new one and JJP service was stellar. Now this. This is new to me so any suggestions are really appreciated. Dying to show my machine off to friends but need it working right.

That diverter is, for all intents and purposes, just like a flipper mech. in the sense that it can be gapped incorrectly just like a flipper can. If it doesn't have enough up/down play over its bushing, it will drag just like a flipper can when it comes back to resting position and, like a flipper spring, the spring may not be strong enough to overcome it so it may stick. If you flip the playfield up, you can have a clear look at it. Try wiggling it up and down like you would a flipper from below to make sure it has at least some gapping. If it is too low and you can feel no gap or wiggle room, the screw needs a small loosening and the shaft of the diverter needs just a touch of a movement up (i.e. toward the back of the cabinet in the up position / up above the playfield surface). Remember it's a small adjustment just like on a flipper shaft/bushing setup.

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