NIB LE#886 just showed up! 4 legs, 4 feet, 3 nuts - looks like a quick trip to Home Depot.
630022B4-2289-4DEE-9209-B2257464D79B (resized).jpeg(Topic ID: 240130)
Linked Games
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Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (Standard)
Jersey Jack, 2019
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Quoted from LTG:Full Install only. Delta is for 1.34 to 1.35
Back up your settings in case you want to save anything.
LTG : )
Thanks LTG! Went smoothly
Quoted from knightgdg:I used 5mm 12V LED's. On the Factory, I drilled a hole (the same size as the existing smoke/cotton mounting hole) down thru and out the bottom. The hole just needs to be big enough for the wire to go through but small enough that the LED stays at the top. I powered all the LED's from an existing 12V power feeding my Wonkavator Mod (from the Mod Couple). The smoke is just a piece of a cotton ball.
How did you get them to flicker ?
I’m having an intermittent problem with a ball getting stuck in the back left corner of the game. Under the Wonkavator assembly. I’ll plunge a ball with will hit a pop bumper and shoot back there and gets stuck. Nudging or shaking the game won’t knock it loose. When anther ball plunges it frees the ball. If I lift the playfield while the ball is back there it seems to move freely then comes out after I lower the playfield. Any ideas?
Quoted from Goyomex:Having the same issue occasionally. Only thing that frees it is a ball search. Anyone else have a solution?
Pretty sure I just solved the issue On mine. The roll over switch was getting stuck. Lift the playfield and remove the switch, tweak the curve in the metal a little bit if needed and when you put it back check that the switch opens and closes smoothly.
Quoted from Phbooms:I just joined the club and was wondering if i can go from 1.33 to 1.35 with the 1.34-1.35 delta code or do i have to do a full install?
Full install.
Quoted from Phbooms:Im not even sure its called the gobstopper. Its the spinning disk that you hit the target and it spins to open a hole to lock a ball in. When i looked at the mech under the playfield it seemed like the sound was coming from the 2 plastic gears that it uses. 1 little gear on the motor and 1 big gear on the disk.
You can use white lithium grease.
I occasionally get a ball stuck under the left corner of the Agustus spinner bracket. Is the correct remedy to bend the bracket slightly up so the ball can pass under the corner of the bracket, or slightly bend it down so hitting the corner of the bracket will reject the shot.
1 week later
Quoted from Rager170:Can I ask where you got the wonka hat that is sitting on top of the pop bumper? Love it!
1 week later
Quoted from PinballHaven:I’ve seen a ball stuck in the back area a couple times but never when I am playing the game.......still not sure how it’s happening but it seems to be caught in a no mans land under the plastics in the back left corner.
Happened to me when I first got my game. Adjusting the roll over switch in the back left cured it. It was too tight against on side and drop all the way so a slow ball would hang up.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Happened to me when I first got my game. Adjusting the roll over switch in the back left cured it. It was too tight against one side and drop all the way so a slow ball would hang up.
Quoted from Rager170:Why scared to update??
I know there are a handful of people who had issues but im sure there are even more that didnt.
I had no issue at all doing a full install. I backed up my stuff prior, did the install, and then restored the backup.. Super easy.
Received my LE NIB last month. Came with 1.33 did full install of 1.35 with no issues. Updated to 1.37 Via WiFi using the JJP recommended Dongle with no issues.
Quoted from Vitty:Anyone got any thoughts? Tried upgrading from 1.34 to 1.37 via the USB upgrade method through the menus and that fails and says no update found. I then tried the full install of 1.37 and the machine never recognizes the USB stick inserted on boot and just boots normal. USB stick lights up when plugged into it. This is also the same USB stick I used to upgrade not long ago to 1.34 via the full install method. I tried two other USB sticks for both methods for 1.37 and same thing happens - nothing.
I think you need to be on 1.35 to use usb to get to 1.37
Quoted from DeeGor:If the electrical tape doesn't work out, let me know I'll print one up and send it to you.
Big thanks to DeeGor for the floppy gobstopper switch fix!
8023032E-7D51-4B83-80AC-006CF761C484 (resized).jpegQuoted from jimbodeanny:Decided to try to make a better quality video, highlighting some of the animations that are noticeably choppy. I used a direct HDMI capture so the clips in the video are taken straight from the game and unaltered. Hopefully, it illustrates what I'm seeing and people are able to notice it a little more. Then again, maybe it's just normal and something only my OCD is noticing.
I'm hoping others can confirm whether or not the dropped frames in these animations are normal or not. I never noticed it when I had v1.33 installed, but then again maybe it was there and I never noticed.
Best to watch fullscreen at 1080p.
Yes, defiantly noticed a change from 1.35 to 1.37. Nothing that changes the game or the enjoyment of it. Have fun enjoy the game and a when a patch is available install it.
2 weeks later
Quoted from jimbodeanny:For reference, I documented it here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wonka-v137-update-choppy-animations
Yes, consider yourselves lucky! Not everyone has the OCD eye that I do. I'm glad you don't notice it - I wish I never had.
I don’t notice it either - but maybe because I’m watching the ball and not the monitor.
1 week later
Quoted from Rager170:Id disagree with that. The Powder Coating, Invisiglass ($300), Shaker, better Side Art cabinet decal and Backglass Image (Personal Preference), headphone connection with external volume control, High Gloss UV Decals... and then the physical ball lock which adds a bit of a light show.
Maybe its me but all those extras warrant $2k... And the blue powder-coating is beautiful!
I agree. I went back and forth between SE and LE, went with the LE and wish I got the CE. Such a great game.
Quoted from SBrothers:Backing up my high scores would merely carry the beta GC score over to the alpha update. So the problem would persist.
I didn’t back up my scores when going from 1.38 to the Beta and they were still there.
Quoted from Vitty:I'd be shocked if the GA release(post-beta) reverts scoring back to how it was. You are safe to upgrade my friend
Now if they would just boost the scoring in POTC the same way...
I noticed a bug with beta 4. During multiball if you sink 2 balls in the gobstopper hole at the same time they won’t eject back to the shooter lane. The coil never even tries to elect them. Even a ball search won’t fire the coil to eject them. If you manually eject them by opening the coin door and hitting the coil spring manually and resume your game all works as it should. This has happened on more then one game.
Quoted from MLmotorsport:Yes, I just installed it last night and noticed that right away. Especially a weaker right ramp shot.
As a plus, I was able to sink 19 balls during most secret machine mostly by backhanding them with the weaker flipper. I’ll probably wait for the next full update before I compensate the coil strength.
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:If you had increased the power on your flippers before the update and didn’t restore your settings, it likely reverted back to the default power settings. Go into the menu and bump up the power a couple notches and you’ll be good.
The beta also has the new duty cycling for the flipper coils that helps keep them cooler, so they should stay stronger over a longer play session, too.
My flippers have always been at stock power, maybe it’s the duty cycling that is causing the change we are experiencing. But as you said bumping them up should compensate.
Quoted from MightyRipples:My game has been stuck on this screen for over an hour, I’ve pressed every button and I can’t get out of the screen and I don’t feel like I should restart it. Any advice?
[quoted image]
Try closing your coin door.
1 week later
The older JJP games are wide body
Quoted from psexton:This may seem like an odd comment and I don't mean to bash this game, but it feels "cheap" to me. Meaning it feels "light" as in weight, not heavy/solid construction like the other JJP games. Anyone else feel the same and is there any fix like maybe putting some weights in the cabinet bottom to give it a heavier more premium feel?
3 weeks later
Quoted from DaddyManD:People put themselves out there to do nice things for people and send positive messages and there are always haters and people who want to bring people down. Its a shame and I hope he is back too...I purchased my WW CE because of his videos!
Great guy, I purchased POTC and Wonka based on his videos and messaging with him. His guides and PM’s helped me set them up and dial them in. Wish him well, hope he returns!
Quoted from Rager170:Ive been thinking for a while that the Wonka and WOZ threads need separate threads about their "issues/problems", like how a lot of other threads have them
While I do agree that I would not be happy with chipping playfields for $10K toys... I also dont want to be hearing about them every time I log onto Pinside...
And aside from that Haters are going to hate. Block out that noise and bring the positive vibes
I agree. I have a Wonka LE and a POTC LE and have been really lucky to have no issues with my playfields YET. Seeing the constant reminders in the club thread of the issues gives me anxiety rather than be able to enjoy my games. Having the issue in a separate thread that we can refer to when and if it eventually happens makes a lot of sense.
Quoted from inverted1:So my wonka LE is sometimes stopping play and disabling flippers as if a tilt happened. I have been looking through threads and haven' t found the same situation yet. Anyone have suggestions? I suspect the opto sensors in the trough.
It does this if you beat the Wonkas office mode. It’s a feature of that mode.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Pooling around posts, not only slingshots but upper flipper areas as well, also had chipping on wireform underneath wonkavision. Look for proper function of gobstopper hole and ball eject.
Nothing else comes to mind from my experience. My game has been really solid outside of the initial playfield issues.
What did you do to stop your gobstopper floppy switch from getting stuck? That’s the only thing I haven’t been able to dial in.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:post 6820
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675550
This is what I use, works great.
I don’t have a 3D printer can I pay someone who does to print one of these please ?
Quoted from SuperMas77:Connections appear to be in place and tight.
Try unplugging the wires and inspecting the connector pins
Quoted from SuperMas77:Here's some pics of what I'm looking at.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Did you Try reversing the cables for the topper and the light strip ?
Quoted from SuperMas77:It's a brand new lighting strip from Lermods, just arrived today. Multimeter shows connector has power. Guess I just got a bum strip?? Anything else I should be checking?
Maybe lermods has the positive and negative reversed in the connector. Do you have a 12v source you can use to test the strip ?
Quoted from SuperMas77:It's a brand new lighting strip from Lermods, just arrived today. Multimeter shows connector has power. Guess I just got a bum strip?? Anything else I should be checking?
There are other power sources you can use in Wonka also
08EE408C-F109-4A7A-A248-3B0041E8159C (resized).jpegQuoted from paulbaptiste:Pure Imagination my friends!! Pure Imagination. I was only there for a minute or two but I finally made it!
Sweeeet! I got there once also and I drained in under a minute- but what a feeling of accomplishment. Congrats!
Quoted from Captchaos:Is the beta update different from the 1.38v listed on JJP's web? If so, how do I get it? Thank
Beta is different than 1.38. First download 1.38 then opt in to the beta from the menu.
Quoted from TonyScoots:I am back in the Wonka Club! So happy to upgrade to a CE NIB today. I absolutely love this Pin.
[quoted image][quoted image]
LE owner here- I’m Jelly !
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Anybody own both Wonka and Elvira HOH and can speak to a preference? I'm thinking of listing my Wonka LE for an Elvira but have only been able to play one on location so can't speak to the longevity of the game. I know these opinions would be highly subjective but for those who have owned or do own both it'd be nice to hear your thoughts.
The problem with letting JJPs go is I will most likely not own one again, or be able to afford it a year or two from now. Although this will probably be true for EHOH as well.
My only experience with EHOH. I’ve only payed the one at the Pinball hall of fame and every time I’ve played it something broke or on other trips it was out of service. I wish I could play one that has been dialed in.
Quoted from DavidCPA:Got a verified download. Powered off machine and powered on, but still ran 1.38.. suggestions?
Did you manually power it off or did the machine do it on its own?
Quoted from DavidCPA:Manually did it. Is it supposed to reset automatically after complete
Got to 100% verified and back to this screen.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yes, it will reboot on its own
Quoted from DavidCPA:Manually did it. Is it supposed to reset automatically after complete
Got to 100% verified and back to this screen.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Is your coin door closed ?
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Is your coin door closed ?
And you need to press the start button on the game
Quoted from Baba_Booey:Yes when I went from Beta 6 to 2.0 the high scores were reset back to default
I went from beta 5 to 2.0 and my scores are intact.
Alright! I just broke 100,000,000 on Wonka at the scoring starts over at 0 and the scoreboard has a broken glass effect. When you launch the ball the player 1 above the score is replaced by a 100M graphic I didn’t capture a pic of.
Sadly this score may not be legit. I feel like random balls might have been launching when I didn’t earn a multi ball. I went in to switch test and banged around and nothing lit up. Is there a better way to check ?
A0332596-04A9-480F-A81F-2340023474AC (resized).jpegFC4E6F6B-1C2F-4EB6-9D4A-622BC417FEE5 (resized).jpeg
I was able to sink 30 balls in most secret machine and my gob stopper switch functioned perfectly with the 3D print you sent me! Collected 4 golden tickets and didn’t even make it to pure imagination this time. So quite a bit more is attainable.
But I feel like extra balls launched when I didn’t earn a multi-ball so I’m trying to figure out why. If that’s the case my score was defiantly aided by the multi balls.
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Upon further review, Mr. McGehee had answered the question about the random balls being launched: solution being to reflow the tough optic board (apparently just a coincidence it started happening with code update). Unfortunate that this seems to be a manufacturing defect, but at least it is fixable and a known issue. I haven't had to reflow solder since I fixed my old PS3 in the oven (spouse was quite puzzled at what the hell I was doing, but it worked).
Both boards or just one side ?
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Upon further review, Mr. McGehee had answered the question about the random balls being launched: solution being to reflow the tough optic board (apparently just a coincidence it started happening with code update). Unfortunate that this seems to be a manufacturing defect, but at least it is fixable and a known issue. I haven't had to reflow solder since I fixed my old PS3 in the oven (spouse was quite puzzled at what the hell I was doing, but it worked).
I just reflowed the solder to my opto’s as well mine barely had any visible solder looking thru a magnifying loupe.
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Final resolution: JJP confirmed that the random balls are indeed due to a bad "trough jam opto" and needs to be reflowed or replaced (they are backordered but will send one to me at no charge except for shipping). Good support from JJP, plus it confirms everything that the Pinsiders have stated about this issue and how to fix it. Carry on!
Reflow didn’t solve my issue. I contacted JJP support this morning.
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Shoot man, I am sorry to hear that. So I could get back up and running quickly, I decided to take a shot at the reflow (per JJP instructions I didn't even need to remove the board), and so far that seems to have solved the issue for me (no random balls in about 5 long games). They should be able to take care of you though, although they did warn me that the trough opto boards are backordered (hence why I decided to take a shot at the reflow). I did add a little solder as well.
Did you just reflow the pins to the LED’s or the entire board ?
Quoted from daveyvandy:Before you lower the difficulty, try breaking 100 million. A small surprise is there for you if you do.
That small surprise depends on your settings - you can actually turn it off in the menu.
Quoted from inverted1:re-flowing the leds on this board seems to have fixed my issues also. I would get the occasional extra ball from nowhere, and also sudden stop of the game as if it had been tilted. Both of these things were somewhat infrequent, but when I tested the trough, the errors were clear. Cycling balls through, it would often give an error about an "unexpected ball configuration". I was taking balls out of play and when there was only one in the trough it would pretty frequently show phantom indications for 2-3 more balls. There was very little solder on mine also, and it wouldn't re-flow without adding some. Everything seems good now.
I had to add quite a bit of solder to reflow as well. Hoping to have the time to play a few games this weekend to see if it fixed my issues as well.
I’m still having the random ball issue. I reflowed solder to the through board, checked the wiring multiple times. When I go in to the through test everything looks normal. Banging in the playfield shaking and jiggling the wiring is not showing any faults. Going in to switch test banging around and playing a few balls around is not showing anything either.
Typically if I start a multi ball even a 2 ball multi like slugworth multi all 6 balls launch and keep launching after they drain for several minutes. And random times when no multi ball is earned a few or all balls will randomly launch.
I am in contact with JJP support. But so far the only thing they suggested was reflow solder and check wiring which I’ve done multiple times now.
Quoted from smalltownguy2:If you describe the symptom of extra balls being launched during multi-ball and JJP tech support recommends anything less than replacing the trough boards, immediately hang up and call right back. Your trough boards are toast, and should be replaced.
I think I may have figured it out. Support was telling me to reflow the sender board which I did multiple times. I took a shot and reflowed the receiver board as well and I just played my first game without phantom balls being launched in over a month.
Quoted from SuperMas77:My Wonkavator is not releasing the balls properly. This has been a new and recurring theme since 2.0 code was updated. Is anyone else having this issue or may it just be coincidence and something else is the culprit??
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pC1raqRKCHWqtyeu6
Maybe try removing the chocolate river mod. Even if it’s not in the way maybe you could see something from that side.
Quoted from Goyomex:Thanks Pinballomatic ! That did the trick - powered back up and running fine. Who would of thought a paper clip would be the solution to jump starting my WW!
If you haven’t already- I’d recommend watching the other video’s Butch Peel did for JJP. All are equally great and informative.
Quoted from SuperMas77:Hey guys, so I think I got the Elevator Lock Release fixed. I reset the lock release time to factory default of 210 milliseconds. Ran the single ball test and it still struggled a bit, so I removed the chocolate falls mod and jammed my finger in there to manually see if anything was restricting the movement of release coil. In doing so I felt the elevator move (where the balls are locked). This was more on a level plane than being slighted tilted toward the release area. Removed a few screws, repositioned the elevator lock area, retightened screws. Ran several more tests and seemed to work just fine. Played a couple of games to test further and everything is back to normal. I'm wondering if the shaker motor over time is caused the elevator lock area to loosen and code update threw off the lock release setting as well. Appreciate the help and support!
Great news!
Quoted from Vitty:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Thank you for posting this! I got my game NIB in March 2021 before I played my first game I removed the posts replaced with star posts with soft rubber washers below - looked at my game today and one of the Posts started to pool. I removed the soft rubber for slightly larger hard clear washers.
Quoted from Vitty:This game is 9 months old from unboxing new. These were not there at unboxing and I took preventative measures to put the rubber and metal washers under the various posts. These developed recently within the last several weeks. I check for them often as I am pretty anal about condition of my games.
It is definitely unfortunate - that said, it does not detract from my enjoyment of the game. It's wonderful!
When I checked my game yesterday I noticed that the one post that had a little bit of pooling was not as tight as the other posts. I’m thinking it got a little loose over time and the play in the post moving back and forth caused the pooling. I had a silicone washer under a star post and replaced the silicone washer with a slightly larger acrylic washer which covered the pooling. I’m thinking that if the post and washer moving is causing the pooling maybe adhesive between the washer and playfield to keep the washer from moving would further prevent pooling. Even if the post is moving a little it’s moving on top of the waster and the part in contact with the playfield is stationary.
Quoted from zaphX:Part of the charm of Wonka I'm afraid Exiting the left orbit is a real danger, gotta be ready to slap the machine on the way out.
It still bites me a lot.
Thanks Zaphx! If it’s part of the design and not something out of adjustment then the solution is for me to play better.
Quoted from FlippinJB:I'm sure that's fine. Mine does the same thing with lots of messages during start-up. If it says 2.0 in the bottom-right of the screen during test mode, and the game plays without issues, then I think you're good to go.
The errors have been there for the last few updates. I believe they are USB boot related since the WiFi support was added.
2 weeks later
Quoted from NightTrain:I'm still having issues with my Wonka LE after the 2.01 update (although I don't think it's related).
Sometimes it will kick 2 balls and even try to kick 3 balls into the trough. Seems to happen on multiball startup.
Also the flippers will die and the ball will end when there are still 2 balls in multiball.
Slugworth multiball kicks out 5 balls now.....
I check the trough opto boards and the plugs are all nice and tight. The shooter lane switch works fine and registers in test mode.
Any ideas?
Same thing happened to me. I had to reflow solder to the opto boards - both the sender and receiver. I had to add quite a bit of solder. Was a several week back and forth with JJP support to sort it out.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Rager170:Sorry, I dont follow what you are saying.
But the fact is, most people dont have pooling issues.
The majority of the games do have some pooling issues- most owners just don’t inspect the games cosmetics that closely or care.
Quoted from zaphX:And you might buy a used game that looks nice and develops issues later.
This is just smalltownguy2 taking yet another opportunity to beat his playfield drum.
Correct ! I got my NIB Wonka in March 2021 it has a build date of December 2019. So the clear had more than enough time to cure. Before playing my first ball I swapped the slings out to star posts with washers below them and In September 2021 at 68 plays I had pooling.
1 week later
Quoted from Kwoody51:I couldn’t imagine how long a 100M+ game would last….
Maybe some day, but maybe never
Both of mine were about 45 min.
1 month later
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:On the new LE’s there is a contraption under the gobstopper that keeps the gobstopper target mech from going too far and the switch roller getting stuck on top (jamming up the whole mechanism). Lots of fixes out there (I 3D printed a fix, I hear that tightening the switch by putting a piece of paper in there works), but would love to install the new factory fix which seems pretty clever. Anybody ask JJP about this?
I would also like to do the factory contraption fix as well. Did they revise the manual with a drawing of it ?
4 weeks later
Quoted from Mjesposi:Hey everyone. Just took delivery of a new Wonka LE and I had also bought the JJP LE topper. I cannot die the life of me figure out where I connect the plug for the topper. The cord is pulled to its max in the below pictures.
Second questions is regarding the left post. Is there supposed to be a post there from the factory? I see a post in the goodie bag but could not understand why it would not be installed from factory?
Thanks
Mike[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
For me the plug was hidden behind the magnet bracket on the left that holds the monitor in place.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Start with this plug and trace the blue wire - follow my red line
[quoted image]
Your wire could be tucked behind the wire bundle or maybe even tucked into the lower cabinet hole. Follow the blue wires from the main plug.
Quoted from Mjesposi:So I went back down again and took some
More picture. My yellow wire that you are holding wraps around into the blue wire for the led lights. The other yellow and black option has the open connector behind monitor but not same shape. I feel like something is different or I am completely missing something??
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Going back to your original pictures look at these wires
A18AB83A-3D44-460A-8C65-306C84815643 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mjesposi:Thank you so much guys. Damn wires were tucked in the black tubing to the bottom cabinet. Had to cut zip tie and magically there they were. We are now in business. Appreciate all the help - love this site!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Sweet! Glad you are up and running. If LTG were still doing support for JJP he would have it solved much faster.
Quoted from gorditas:I wonder what the odds of this happening are? I sent two balls up the ramp in quick succession during Slugworth Multiball. After a few rounds of ball searching, the machine released another ball. A shot to the ramp freed them all. Unfortunately, when the first one drained, the flippers went dead, as the machine was only accounting for one, I guess.
[quoted image]
Odds are high with the position of the ramp and that post rubber. I’d adjust the ramp a touch to the left and remove the rubber from that post - it shouldn’t be there.
372637F9-957E-42D4-AF78-7AAC3B0A9B51 (resized).jpegQuoted from zaphX:It shipped with one on my Wonka SE and CE both. And it's on page C-120 in the Wonka manual.
Thanks Zaphx I mis took it for the extra post that comes in the goody bag that you knock out the black plastic plug for.
1 month later
Quoted from rockrand:I entered the ww candy code with the flipper buttons and the first game it started to launch an extra ball and soon after I am getting error all optos are active check 5 volt.
I reflowed the power and still same,strange it happened first game out.,anyway I will contact jjp ,any thoughts.
Thanks
I reflowed solder several times on mine. Would work for a few games then start again. After replacing both opto boards it’s been solid.
3 weeks later
Quoted from gorditas:Already turned off for the night, but here is a quick couple of photos. You are close enough to come check it out in person, if you like. Send a PM.
[quoted image][quoted image]
This is the factory with some flickering mini LED’s added.
6A99C0B3-AA05-4EFC-B9B2-EEEA9F38B35D (resized).jpegEF7A5183-7478-49BF-8504-EB7E9F965FFB (resized).jpeg 3 weeks later
Quoted from jackd104:Curious about highest scores ever known for Wonka. I know there are scores in this thread, etc, however I’m sure some of the world-class players have gotten some out-there scores. What’s highest you’ve heard of?
3594A582-BF0B-4EF9-9F3A-A989DBFA1A76 (resized).jpeg 1 month later
I have a few flickering smoke stack kits available. PM me if interested.
The kit consists of a smoke stack cap cotton ball smoke and a flickering led.
To install the the mod you will need to loosen the cap on your existing smoke stack - feed in the wire and tie into 12v power - You will need to provide your own wire to extend to led to your 12v source. I recommend using the topper plug or other 12v accessory plug in the back box.
CF2B2BD6-CBA0-408A-900E-229A3C60439A (resized).jpegD96FEBB4-9297-450C-BB24-F22505FE9358 (resized).jpeg 1 month later
Quoted from prentice:Not sure, I'll take a peek when it ejects one, but it's usually after I've been playing for a bit.
Thanks! Was there a particular solder joint you reflowed?
Thanks, will try that too.
Thank you everyone!
Just as an fyi I fought this issue for over a year. Back and forth with jjp support. I reflowed solder on both boards multiple times. Jjp would not replace the boards. I bought new ones and it solved the issue.
1 month later
Quoted from mbrave77:Ugh. Still same thing. Works for a game and when i turn on and off same thing. Ill try to give the tape more slack on the back
I could never dial in the tape. I put one of these on;
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675550
and have not had an issue for 500 plays and counting.
3 weeks later
Working on a custom topper and the motorized character is complete! Final version will be similar to my POTC and CC.
6CE965E7-3E39-484C-815F-179CF957752E (resized).jpeg73BBE3E2-0EB9-44BC-B587-5871AEAB7DC6 (resized).jpegD93430A2-9007-4D60-8271-0074C77E3FEA (resized).jpegE27ECC10-277F-4A89-BFE5-7E1E47E00B4F (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Motorized Topper is complete! Just need to run the wires. If anyone is interested I have another ready to go that just needs to be mounted on a base. Topper can be mounted as a standalone or can drop over an existing LE topper like this one. Base can be stained grass green, LE blue or black. PM me if you have any questions.
CD8EDA3D-527E-404E-BD41-559E6D5FB4B2 (resized).jpegE13A157F-4710-48EC-8081-B2982F778D44 (resized).jpeg
1CE01DB0-2823-4338-BB02-EDC447F897E5 (resized).jpeg 3 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from LTG:Then call jjp and tell them all you want for Christmas is LTG : ) Back !
My Christmas list is LTG at JJP and Spooky.
Quoted from Gumby510:Last update was last year 2.03 from what I see on the site.
I think there is a new BETA out there if you opt in to the beta group
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from pcprogrammer:I found the file on thingverse, I'll give it a try...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803035
Those didn’t work for me. But this one did. The link is somewhere way back in this thread.
668A0C5A-497A-4FE8-9EC2-BB481C4AD06E (resized).jpegQuoted from pcprogrammer:Why does it say "you get nothing"? Did you use some 3M tape to hold it down?
Yeah not a fan of the text- but it installs with 3m tape and works.
Quoted from zaphX:I had a very tiny flathead screwdriver I used.
Like an eyeglass screwdriver ?
Quoted from mikepmcs:this baffled me when I read it to the point I got out of bed at midnight and went downstairs to look at mine. I made this and naturally want it to work for whoever uses it.
Here is a series of pictures and questions/comments that will hopefully shed light on why this roller is going over the printed part. This morning I immediately removed my glass to mess with mine and my roller does not go above my plastic when I push the blue snubber thingy back to full stop. It literally cannot, as in physically. Something else is the issue and hopefully these photos get you going in the right direction.
best wishes
r/
Mike
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I’m using your mod as well and I tried to push the arm above mine with it installed and couldn’t do it either.
3 months later
Sadly I left the club today, traded my LE for a Bond 60. But hope to pick up a CE soon as Wonka is my favorite game.
I have a paid in full Scooby doo CE plus the back alley mod suite that’s shipping next month I’m looking to trade toward a CE or maybe an LE PM me if interested. Thanks
1 month later
The flippers on the CE I just picked up don’t seem as snappy as my LE was which had the flippers set to factory power. Where does everyone have their flipper power at ?
Quoted from zaphX:I run the lowers at +2.
Thanks Zaphx! How many plays is your Wonka up to now?
Quoted from adol75:Is your pinball routed ? Or you've been whacking the hell out of the game ?
Zaphx is the only who get more than his moneys worth from a home owned CE!
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Zaphx is the only who gets more than his moneys worth from a home owned CE!
Quoted from PinWoofer:Hey Guys! Since we were mentioned a few times.
The JJP Super Kit comes with our signature amplifier, power solution, harness, tweeters and woofer + mounting ring.
Wonka has amazing potential, but the factory hardware does not do the track justice. The below link and QR code lead to the JJP PinWoofer kit for Wonka:
https://pinwoofer.com/pinwoofer-jjp-super-kit/
We're in OK shape for the next 24-48 hours, but we expect to go on backorder until the 23rd of June. If you can't wait, I'd recommend getting your order in.
Thanks!
Dan
https://PinWoofer.com
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MT, Mon - Fri
[quoted image]
PinWoofer any fathers day discounts available ?
Quoted from Rager170:Why do you feel its necessary to spend more on the external amp? Im glad i didnt. Once mine was set, ill never touch it again. Also didnt want that amp in the way of the coinbox.
I just ordered the diy amp too. I like the back box install. More of a factory look
Quoted from mjmpin:New owner here! Just received my LE today and got it set up & played a couple games, nothing appears to have been affected by shipping, always a nervous time!
The only thing I observed immediately that I thought I'd ask the expert owners about, since this is my first JJP...
the gobstopper motor/spinner seems to be audibly loud, with glass on and volume moderate. The noise is clearly coming from the cabinet (below playfield)
I had not noticed hearing the motor when I have played this on location, so it caught my attention immediately - is this normal for these, or is there potentially an issue I should investigate? lubrication/bad motor/interference/etc
thanks much!
great game, I will love having this one!
mike
I’ve owned and LE and a CE the motor is indeed loud.
Quoted from daveyvandy:Motor noise from the gobstopper is not normal. I've got a standard model and have never heard any noise coming from it, and I'm pretty sensitive to that kind of noise. Might consider some super lube?
I think he’s talking about the noise like it makes during calibration when you start the game.
Quoted from mjmpin:No, I am talking about during play when you hit the gobstopper to make it rotate to provide the hole for locking balls. When it is turning the plate/surface - the motor sound is pretty loud coming from inside the cabinet
So I remain a bit confused as I have some saying the loud motor is normal and some saying it should be quiet ??
thanks!
Ah! I was confusing the actual spinning gobstopper and the hole to the subway. The gobstopper itself is quiet as others have said.
Quoted from PinWoofer:Great points.
Making adjustments with a music player is a clever technique.
If you increase the slider levels on the EQ it can serve to create a "hot" signal to the amp input and that can lead to clipping. So, we recommend leaving them flat and if you feel like more is needed, change one at a time and in small amounts so as not to overshoot.
Also, I don't think there is a lot of risk to bumping the controls. It might depend on the creativity of whomever gets into your coin door though, which is why I tend to keep the keys separate, especially when there are kids around. The Knockout is by far the more popular of the two and we've not received any feedback that the controls are accidentally changed but I suppose it could happen.
Thanks for your comments!
PinWoofer Received my DIY amp and tweeters today!
I see recommended menu settings and knob settings for the GT amp on the website - would those be the same for the DIY amp ?
Quoted from PinWoofer:Fun to watch the debate on backbox versus coin box location; some want easy access to the amp controls, and some don't care (the DIY is a chore to access). The good news, our in-house designed amplifiers are a game changer compared to the factory offering.
In terms of the electronics, the DIY and Knockout Plus are identical (different steps of the same schematic), so you'll get great sound no matter your choice. Our speaker upgrade is vital (in particular our tweeters) and they are the best you can get for JJP.
Next, a few PinWoofer amps undressed. Appearance won't always tell the story, but I think the effort we've put into our amps is clear. We use the best materials possible; SMT, large decoupling caps, custom heat sink, extensive ground plane / polygons, thermal vias, and a high-end enclosure for our Plus Series Amps. We have invested heavily in our electronics and offer what we think is most well-designed audio hardware upgrade possible.
OK, just a fun look inside. Have a great day, and thanks for your attention!
Thanks,
Dan
https://PinWoofer.com
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MT, Mon - Fri
[quoted image][quoted image]
Alright, I’m a PinWoofer believer now.
I have the DIY Amp and tweeter combo. Right after install I went with the pinsound recommended starting point and was disappointed at the volume level as it was very quiet, much worse than the factory set up. So I tried Trumpanche’s settings and it got a little better. Then I started messing with the knobs myself and holy crap! Just a slight turn on the back box volume and I was in business. As far as the sub, Even with the factory sub I was able to get more than adequate bass without any distortion or clipping. (It would be nice to have a chart of the approx frequency at what knob position for the bass cut off freq. )
The back box vs the coin door amp mount. It would have been nice to have the coin door mounted amp for initial set up. But after getting it dialed in you can absolutely just set it and forget it.
I might have to add the PinWoofer sub now.
Quoted from skwal:I m trying to reinstall from a full install but inserting a usb key and booting does not trigger a full install?
is this normal?
Are you downloading the software and putting it directly on the usb, or are you running it thru Rufus first ?
https://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/general/install-full/JJP_USB_UPDATE_PC_instructions.pdf
Quoted from GRB1959:Does this replace the full install process of using unetbootin? On all of my previous JJP software installations (for WOZ and Wonka) there was a program called unetbootin-windows-702 that was used. It sounds like this has been replaced by Rufus. Is that correct?
Gord
I’ve used them both in the past. I seem to remember a post awhile back where someone couldn’t get it working with one but the other worked for them.
Maybe LTG knows which of the two is the more current reccomendation
Quoted from gumnut01:Ok. Just joined. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Welcome to the club !
Quoted from allsportdvd:Does the CE have the glitter playfield or has only been introduced GNR onwards?
Yes, it has the glitter.
Quoted from gumnut01:Told you I’d get one! not as cheap as the Le unfortunately, but ok with the trade. And under cab lighting. Fully sick bra!!
And the radcals, mirrored back glass and topper look so much better in person. Pictures don’t do this game justice.
Quoted from gumnut01:So one of my artblades on my CE was scratched by the first owner. Shame they didn’t have the pinball life protector. Can I order a replacement blade from JJP?[quoted image]
Yes, I ordered a set recently from JJP and they come with protectors. You just need to put in a ticket and you need your serial number to prove you have a CE.
I added the pinwoofer sub to go with the tweeters and amp and I have to say it fills out the sound nicely especially at low to mid volume. I have the amp set conservatively and it still has a nice deep full sound without the need for anti rattle felt.
Quoted from zermeno68:Damn this game is sooo good. For those who upgraded from LE to CE, how did you justify that? Did you sell your LE first and bought the CE?
I was late to the game and got an LE from the last build cycle. Love this machine.
Still have not gotten all 5 golden tickets, but hey it has only been 11 months of ownership. Out of the 11 months I've really only played 4 (I had a newborn child that kind of prevented me from focusing on playing).
I Traded my LE then waited for the right CE come up and overpaid for it because it’s worth it ; )
2 weeks later
4 weeks later
3 months later
Quoted from delt31:Don’t know if I’m just lucky but I’ve never had any reoccurring pop SDTM issues with my CE. Maybe once in every 200 balls maybe? Never even know about this mod hate either. Crazy so many are expecting it
My LE was SDTM 80% of the time. Rarely happens on my CE.
1 month later
Quoted from zaphX:I find my Wonka flippers get weak and heat-soaked under lengthy play. I'd be happy to upgrade the board but I need to make sure it will do what I think it will first.
Same here. If I know it works and is plug and play I’ll swap them into my wonka and potc
1 month later
Quoted from wcbrandes:Question, does your won.ka need the fix ornew i/o board to get flippers snappy ?
I don’t notice any issues hitting shots before. No diffrence after. BUT what I really notice is stronger magnets, kickback and pop bumpers. The stronger pops also rarely knock the ball SDTM now.
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