We're back!

After a disaster in our datacenter took down our server, we are now running Pinside on a brand new server. However, things may not work as expected as we are still polishing the playfield and adjusting some switches! We might be switching to maintenance mode a few times. Please see this forum topic for more info.

(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

2 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 8,332 posts
  • 490 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 minutes ago by DaddyManD
  • Topic is favorited by 200 Pinsiders


Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 123 votes
  • Limited Edition 228 votes
  • Collectors Edition 106 votes

(457 votes)

Topic index (key posts)

11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #149 Deep Dive on features and all that is wonka Posted by pin2d (1 year ago)

Post #150 SDTM video on Wonka - interview with Pat Lawlor and Joe Katz Posted by ZMeny (1 year ago)

Post #160 SDTM gameplay video Posted by ZMeny (1 year ago)

Post #188 Rules Flowchart Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #248 Features Matrix - CE, LE, SE Posted by f3honda4me (1 year ago)

Post #554 Early Stream of a home owner who received their game Posted by Thegeekyhusband (1 year ago)

Post #785 Gobstopper subway VUK not ejecting ball fix Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)

Post #793 Gobstopper subway VUK fix pics for reference Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)

Post #1130 Latest code changelog Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lermods.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#186 1 year ago

I wish this was the color for the powder instead of the blue


I may get it done when I get my game.

#331 1 year ago
Quoted from Atrain:

I am very interested in an SE and this would be my first JJP. Very excited. However in a couple of the other threads it is written about skipping the early run machines die to lack of quality. Is this truly a concern on JJP#5? Would it be silly to buy early?

Hard to know. I bought an early DI, July 2017, and had very few issues.

#373 1 year ago
Quoted from Breger1:

You guys do great work! I'm in on Wonka SE, my major worry is not really the wonkavator ball lock, I can do without it. It is the lighting that is bare in the standard. Any chance a mod will incorporate to make up for that bare space.

We will have a variety of lighting mods. I hope to firm things up a bit when I see the game in Allentown, but nothing will be released until I can test in a game.

#392 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

There is no doubt time kills many deals for JJP....the fact that JJP can't ship weeks after reveal is a big problem for them....one that is a bit mind blowing to be honest....its the one reason Stern has so much success...they reveal and ship Pros almost immediately....

it's true, and I do think it is an issue not to be able to deliver more quickly, but Stern games at release are pretty much never close to being finished from a code perspective and the games are not nearly as technically difficult to build. JJP games tend to be much further along in code at release and are much more complex to build.

#399 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

very true on the code issue, but I really don't think thats a big issue nor do I think thats the reason they don't deliver in a timely manner....JJP has a great reputation for finishing code (unlike Stern) so I don't think the market would care about buying a game with unfinished code (I know I wouldn't)....I realize their games are more complex, but they've had years to figure out their manufacturing problems. I'm thinking its probably a cash flow issue as their not willing to front the $ to deliver quickly?

i think it's a space issue. WOZYBR is being built on one line and POTC is on another line awaiting parts to finish. I think once either of those two are done, WW will start production. I have not been to the factory since 2017 so haven't seen this firsthand, but this is what I've heard through the grapevine.

1 month later
#525 1 year ago

I hope to have a game in a few days, crossing my fingers, and can then test fit and function for our mods. If you’ve pre-bought mods from others, well, that’s great. But for those who have been waiting, I think you will be nicely surprised as we (and our collaborator) have a number of interactive mods in development to fill some spaces on the SE that I hope will also work for LE and CE owners. Stay tuned! Nothing will be released or revealed until I have the game and it’s installed and working.

#572 1 year ago

got my game. wonka vision not working, hdmi plug is behind wonka vision, but there is no visible port to plug it in. anyone with a game that can tell me where it plugs in?


#590 1 year ago

I won’t spam the club thread, but will post one time our first set of mods, rgb trough and backboard. I posted in the wonka mod thread, where I’ll post more pics later when I get back on WiFi. Wonkavision is out of the game, long story.

#600 1 year ago
Quoted from Gasoline:

Great stream last night. G4saoline here. Surprised this hasn't posted but Jack G. called in and stated LEs are on the line! CEs are next! Very excited!

LEs to Europe first, then LEs domestic, then CE.

#631 1 year ago

Been playing mine, really a great game. Hooked it to an external sub, great sound and light show. Still figuring out what to do, but wonkavision and callouts are very instructive. Has a feel like a combo of dialed in and woz. Not sure what a good score is, I’ve gotten over a million twice.

#644 1 year ago
Quoted from HOOKED:

This game is begging for some spotlights. Comet pinball here I come. Has to be one of the darkest modern game I have played in a long time.

Except the connections under the pf are very limited. No open connectors. The spotlight that exists by the gobstopper runs directly into a board.

#785 1 year ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

These are the texts back from jjp to my distributor on the fix for it.
Have him pull the assembly for the Gobstopper subway VUK and check the length of the coil sleeve used for that side popper that feeds the VUK.
It should not protrude into the subway very far (just enough to hold the coil in place). If it sticks out an 1/8” or more, he should trim the excess.
We saw some bad sleeves at the factory that stick out too far, causing the ball to bounce around a bit at the side popper and not sit on the microswitch there properly.
If the side popper is actually kicking the ball and not getting it into the VUK shaft, a little coil strength adjustment or slight bend on the metal trough lip may be in order.

I just fixed this issue, it was taking a while for the ball to get ejected to the playfield. The fix isn’t too bad, but the assembly is pretty large and there are six optos attached to it so be mindful. The process is to remove all 8 screws holding the mech to the playfield. You won’t be able to disconnect the mech from the game, at least not easily, as there are wires running all over the place and everything is bundled. Before removing the mech, have a file/rasp and a razor knife on hand.

1. Remove all 8 screws saving the two outer ones for last so it’s easier to handle.
2. Once the screws are removed, Hold the mech in your left hand and slowly lower it so you can see inside and access/inspect the coil sleeve. If you can feel the sleeve with your finger, it’s too long.
3. Using the razor knife, slice away as much of the sleeve as you can and then finish with the file/rasp. Once it’s flush with the metal, it’s done. Push the plunger down to make sure there is no binding and it moves freely.
4. Reassemble.

If anyone needs pics or more details, let me know, but it should be pretty obvious what to do.

#788 1 year ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Kind of awful that this needs to be done with a brand new pinball.

Quoted from dirtbag66:

Agreed. I'm all for a few kinks here and there on a new machine, but we're talking about removing a mech and needing to use a file and razor knife for Christ's sake!
Good thing I'm patient and willing to wait for an LE. Let the early adopters find all the flaws, report back to JJP, then JJP fixes everything before I get mine!

Not really, I enjoy tinkering with the games. Jjp games are much more intricate so naturally it will be more involved to fix. Took me 15 minutes to fix it. If i had to do it again, half the time.

#791 1 year ago
Quoted from PokerJake:

I'm getting an issue when shooting into the right saucer. It just keeps doing this (in the video) and eventually I have to nudge it hard enough for something to register. It usually ends up tilting because it takes a lot of force.

Check the coil underneath, might have a loose connection or broken wire. Or something underneath is causing the Hangup if the ball eventually fires out.

#793 1 year ago
Quoted from PokerJake:

It doesn't do it all the time, maybe 20%.

Here are some pics. Black circles are the screws to remove last. Yellow arrow points to the coil's sleeve you want to check. Yellow circle is the entire mech.

PicsArt_07-07-10.30.40 (resized).jpgPicsArt_07-07-10.32.09 (resized).jpg
#794 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Agreed. I'm all for a few kinks here and there on a new machine, but we're talking about removing a mech and needing to use a file and razor knife for Christ's sake!
Good thing I'm patient and willing to wait for an LE. Let the early adopters find all the flaws, report back to JJP, then JJP fixes everything before I get mine!

Quoted from dirtbag66:

Agreed. I'm all for a few kinks here and there on a new machine, but we're talking about removing a mech and needing to use a file and razor knife for Christ's sake!
Good thing I'm patient and willing to wait for an LE. Let the early adopters find all the flaws, report back to JJP, then JJP fixes everything before I get mine!

And btw, the game is fantastic, you will love it. You really need to play it in a home environment where you can hear the call outs, appreciate the light show and feel the flow. It’s classic Lawlor, great flowing ramp shots. The modes are really well done and I think it integrates well. Kid Multiball, Oompa Loompa odyssey, lots of cool stuff. I don’t get the disappointment I hear from some people. There are also no flipper power issues. The game has the light show of woz and shoots like DI.

#800 1 year ago
Quoted from frankmac:

I have not missed it! But then again I have not played one with the Wonkavator. You still get wonkavator multiball. The only thing I notice is a dark zone in the upper left side. Going to add some light here later.
2k in my back pocket makes me forget real fast.

Yeah, it's dark back there...fixed that...

#802 1 year ago
Quoted from RhinoPins:

This is a must for sure. What did you use? I've never added light to a pin before so I need to study up. I can't stand the dark back at all!

12v strips. We sell the mod on our site. Suggest doing trough and backboard at same time. Connection points are pretty limited right now, topper plugs not yet enabled. You could tap off the led strip in the backbox.


#804 1 year ago
Quoted from Gorgar123:

That looks fantastic. I love the fading and color changing.
How is the lighting in the center of the playfield? Would it need help in a totally dark room?

Thx. There are a lot of leds on the play field, so I don’t think it’s dark at all.

The illuminated translight is really nice too.

#811 1 year ago
Quoted from jrockne:

Are you guys able to tie the strip into a GI circuit, or is it on all the time?

On all the time. I don't like messing with tapping off the boards. It does, however, turn on and off with the game.

#932 1 year ago
Quoted from GrimDog:

Seriously considering selling my DI for a Wonka. Anyone who owns both can provide a comparison ?

I sold my DI to get a wonka. I didn’t want to do it, but there’s only so much space and cash available. They are comparable in terms of being fun. They are very different games. I miss DI, but wonka fills the space nicely.

#953 1 year ago

I removed the star posts on the slings and put down neoprene washers like I did on potc. There wasn't any issue I saw when I removed the posts.

Quoted from harryhoudini:

Hey guys! Distro let me know my place is ready, question is... how is the playfield? I've seen pics and heard rumors that it's having similar issues to POTC with clear bunching around the posts. Has anyone been able to remove posts, look for chipping or wear? I'd like to get an idea before I plop down a load of cash on another JJP game while battling with them on the POTC playfield. Opinions of the playfield if you haven't removed posts is fine too, but maybe someone has and they can comment. If you aren't familiar here is the POTC thread. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/potc-who-has-playfield-dimples-cracking-wear-around-star-posts-

#1112 1 year ago

Installed mirror blades tonight...look great.

MVIMG_20190718_200126 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190718_200143 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190718_200148 (resized).jpg
#1116 1 year ago
Quoted from SaintJonus:

Mind if I ask where you purchased and how much? Those look sensational!

So, I got them from cointaker. They weren’t a perfect fit. I had to Dremel out just a 1/4” off the top back portion where it hits the glass channel. No big deal, but thought I’d let others know. Not sure if it’s the set I received or if jjp changed something on their cabinet, but they do fit fine with the adjustment and look great. Took me 30 seconds to make the cut. They fit around the hinge bolts so you don’t need to remove them.

#1118 1 year ago
Quoted from Blackzarak:

I’m little confused which coin taker version of mirror blades you purchase? They have stern mirror, old bally mirror, and remake Bally mirror

Remake. The old Bally blades require you to remove the hinge bolt. Remakes have holes cut larger so they fit around the bolt.

1 week later
#1339 1 year ago

The wonkavator I hope is coming shortly. It will trigger off the super lock insert, or any other insert you choose.

#1436 1 year ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Sorry if this has been addressed. I helped a customer set up an LE (#54) last Friday. I sent this to JJP but have not received a response yet so will also try to call them.
After every multiball (I believe the one where the ball goes into the subway), when the last ball is lost, the game stops. Then it does a ball search. Then I hear a click and see a ball go to the VUK that goes to the plunger lane and the ball is kicked out and the game resumes.
Is this an error in 1.09-LE? The game has all 6 balls loaded. I did test all the coils, lights, and switches while setting this up for the customer.

Try upping the coil strength on the gob stopper, I think I set mine to 20 from 18.

#1466 1 year ago
Quoted from judremy:

I'm looking to get a Willy Wonka. If anyone can contact me with advice for where to get it from, that would be great. Looking to get it delivered and for a good price.

There isn't any discounting on nib jjp games, maybe you can save on shipping with some distros. I use joe at pinball star, but I am close to the factory so can pick up directly.

#1585 1 year ago

I posted this earlier, but here's pics of the blades installed on my game. Got from cointaker, also had to Dremel 1/4" of the back part off. Lifting the pf isn't an issue on my game.

MVIMG_20190718_200126 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190718_200143 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190718_200148 (resized).jpg
#1600 1 year ago
Quoted from squirrlyjr:

Looking for some insight.
The upper left flipper is getting stuck fairly regularly... Except it only happens when the ball gets diverted or recently after. It never happens prior to the diverter/magnet. I've tried a few different flipper strength settings and it hasn't helped. I'm going to try disabling the nearby magnet. Anyone have any thoughts?

Check that all the mounting hardware underneath is tight. Likely the coil plunger is rubbing on the sleeve.

#1694 1 year ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

You know you have something there mirror blades might be the way to go but I was really hoping for something with the boat on it. I think I might take your advice and buy some mirror blades. The only problem I see with that is the game seems a bit dark near the top of the playfield.
As for which mod I like the most... if you ask me on Pirates I can tell you on Wonka I think they're all good.
Nothing really stands out yet because I just like them all.

No issues with darkness at the back of my game, nor is my game dark at all. Trough and backboard lights have worked for me. I think the mirrors help too.

MVIMG_20190718_200126 (resized).jpg
#1698 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

You play with lights on. Many of us don’t. Without lights on it is terribly dark. Mine has since been corrected and is much improved.[quoted image]

My picture was taken in dim light, no flash. I dim the lights down low when I play. You will notice, however, that many of the inserts are lit when I took the pic whereas in your pic most inserts are off.

I'll see if I can get a pic of my game with the inserts off to compare

#1708 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

You play with lights on. Many of us don’t. Without lights on it is terribly dark. Mine has since been corrected and is much improved.[quoted image]

Ok, here's mine in a dimly lit room, start button pushed. A little dark in the middle, but not too bad.

I also posted a picture of the rubber on my left inlane. I trimmed it slightly to keep the ball from getting stuck.

MVIMG_20190807_200805 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190807_200732 (resized).jpg
#1710 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Did you use a razor blade or something else?

Sharp scissor, just trimmed the edge.

#1716 1 year ago
Quoted from mavantix:

I'm seeing an LED strip under the back of the cabinet, one in the trough, and mirror blades. Anything else lermods ? I'm thinking of adding some lighting to my LE and like what you have, maybe add two spot lights to the middle playfield area. Wonka is a little dark, definitely not WoZ dark though.

Yes, that’s what I’ve got on my game. I could provide two wired spotlights for a small fee with purchase of the backboard and trough set up. just contact me if anyone wants the full setup. For around $100 shipped you’d have a lit up play field.


#1731 1 year ago

Hi everyone, we are ready to formally introduce our interactive Wonkavator. This Wonkavator fills the area in the back in the SE (may fit le, but haven't tested fit) and is interactive with the spinner super lock, which lights when a Wonkavator ball lock is ready. The Wonkavator features spinning fan blades, inside light and an external color changing RGB spotlight that also lights the outside when the spinner super lock is lit or flashing.

The mod was a joint effort with Random Pinball (aka toyotaboy) and features Rock Custom Pinball's GameOn technology Rock914).

We hope you like it! We have one in stock with more on the way over the next week.


MVIMG_20190809_093208 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190809_093157 (resized).jpg
#1736 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Brilliant work. Would love to know if it's compatible with the LE.

if someone can get a clean picture of that area, I can determine if it will work. I have not seen an LE yet. it can be mounted elsewhere, but again, can't say where for sure having not seen the game. And thanks for the compliment, toyotaboy is really amazing at what he does.

#1750 1 year ago

I didn't like seeing the ugly spotlights so we made some candy mushrooms to cover them.

IMG_20190810_123938 (resized).jpgMVIMG_20190810_124115 (resized).jpg
#1752 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadem:

They look great! Do you have a link for ordering and will they work on all models including the "mysterious " CE?

Thank you! link below. The only difference across the models is the wonkavator so these should work across all models. Free shipping, as always.


#1811 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

I’d bet that many of you Are experiencing it but don’t realize it. That diverter diverts more often than you think. There are 2 issues right now that happen frequently, 1. The ball goes up the ramp fast and goes past the diverter before it even goes down and so you don’t even realize it should be diverted. And 2. The ball bounces against the diverter and then comes back down but the diverter has since gone back up.
This has happened on every wonka in my area including my own. I average 3-4 million a game. I know the rules very well and know exactly when it should be diverting and when it misses.

I don’t think it’s occurring on my game, but when is the diverter supposed to come down? I know it comes down when super lock is lit. I think during Oompa Loompa odyssey, but when else so I can look for it.

#1818 1 year ago

Just played a couple of games, every time I saw the yellow flasher lit, it diverted. Has anyone taken the house off to see what’s going on?

#1862 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Hi everyone, we are ready to formally introduce our interactive Wonkavator. This Wonkavator fills the area in the back in the SE (may fit le, but haven't tested fit) and is interactive with the spinner super lock, which lights when a Wonkavator ball lock is ready. The Wonkavator features spinning fan blades, inside light and an external color changing RGB spotlight that also lights the outside when the spinner super lock is lit or flashing.
The mod was a joint effort with Random Pinball (aka Toyotaboy) and features Rock Custom Pinball's GameOn technology rock914).
We hope you like it! We have one in stock with more on the way over the next week.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fwilly-wonka-the-chocolate-factory-standard-pinball-interactive-wonkavator[quoted image][quoted image]

Wonkavators will be back in stock the week of 8/26. If you are interested, please let me know and we will add you to the list. No payment needed until we are ready to ship. Oh, and these will fit on the LE and CE as the same empty space behind the center ramp exists.

#2016 1 year ago
Quoted from arcadem:

I guess I must be really lucky because my WOZRR, THBA, and POTC LE have all been trouble free. I am expecting the same when my WONKA CE finally shows up but who knows? I don't doubt that all the problems others have experienced are real but my 3 games demonstrate that so far, JJP can and does build quality games. I just hope my "lucky streak" continues and others share in in all the fun without all the grief.

I’ve been happy with all my jjp games and have had nothing but minor adjustment issues. I bought DIle, hobbit le, wonka se and potcle nib, woz rr second hand. I don’t have playfield issues so it’s not all games. I did, however, have clear cracking on the SIM card hole, but a cliffy prevented it from getting worse. You’ll love Wonka, at least I do.

1 week later
#2229 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Is that Lermod’s?
Can you post a short video please?
This is high on my list along with Metal Mods factory and tube mod

There is one on our product page: https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fwilly-wonka-the-chocolate-factory-pinball-interactive-wonkavator

It’s lights when the super spinner lights.

#2242 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I was hoping the Lermods Wonkanator would light up the upper left playfield and my fizzie bottles.[quoted image]

The wonkavator is interactive so it’s not lit or spinning all the time. If you want to light the dark back area, a backboard light will do that.


#2325 1 year ago

I think the game is loaded, but it doesn't feel as immersive as the Hobbit or potc. I can't quite put my finger on it, maybe a little more integration between the screen and the playfield. Maybe a little more flash in the playfield lighting or some better sound cues/integration. There's no equivalent of killing smaug or sinking the ship or even hitting big bang, that I can see. Collecting a Wonka ticket doesn't compare I don't think. Maybe have the wonkavision provide more cues like in hobbit.

Love the game and very happy with it, I'll never see the entire game, but i do like being drawn in.

#2401 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

I've been one of JJP's biggest fanboys ever since I plunked $1 into a Wizard of Oz years ago. Told myself I would own one someday, and had to sell three machines to do it. Now I have a Dialed In and would love to get my hands on a reasonably priced Pirates. My son and I played Wonka at MGC and were blown away. Started the process of selling multiple machines so I could get one.
But after coming to this thread every day and seeing something new when it comes to "QC issues", it's got me feeling really down. Seriously. It's every day! Are they just tightening the final screw then tossing them into a box to be shipped? I get that after the financial failure that Pirates was they are now just trying to satisfy their angel investors, but come on.
I feel bad for all the owners of Wonka who have had to endure this. It really sucks. They will most likely fix everything that is wrong for JJP#6, whether it's GnR or Toy Story, but the damage is done in my eyes.

I've had almost no issues with my potc and Wonka. Pinside has a concentration issue, people post because they have issues and want to alert other owners, and get help with their issues.

You won't see many posts saying "my game is perfect," there's not much point in posting that other than to maybe reassure others that it's not every game My issues with potc have been a bad camera, a flipper adjustment and an opto came out of its housing on a ramp. For Wonka, the only issue I had was having to adjust the coil power on the gobstopper mech.

Jjp promptly replaced my potc camera.

#2404 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Just like I had no issues with my WoZ. Doesn't mean the lighting board issue never existed. Turning a blind eye to the people who are experiencing major issues with their machines just because yours is fine isn't going to put pressure on JJP to fix their mistakes.

I am not turning a blind eye, I've seen pics of playfield issues and read plenty about problems with playfield mechs here on pinside. My point is simply to share my experience, which has been positive, and to note it's not all games.

With the exception of playfield issues, jjp support has been extremely helpful and responsive. Ltg and Steve are on here all the time offering help.

And btw, I had a RR from 2015 with original boards, had one light board fail, no other issues with that game. I had a di and have a hobbit, no issues beyond minor adjustments.

#2425 1 year ago
Quoted from SDpinballer:

As far as Jack (and crew) being a standup guy, check this out... I contacted Jen and asked if there was a poster that I could purchase and give to my daughter on her birthday back in June, while we waited for the machine to arrive. Not only does my daughter get the poster in the mail, and some JJP swag, but also a personalized video from Jack wishing my daughter a happy birthday (now I don’t do YouTube so can’t attach the video - but here’s a pic). They went way out of their way for my kids. What a class act.
Machine arrives today. Pics forthcoming...[quoted image]

Awesome story, to be honest it doesn’t surprise me. People often have the pitchforks out, but these guys really do care and I’ve yet to run across anyone at JJP who has been anything but friendly and helpful.

#2459 1 year ago

My responses below:

Hey guys I got to play Willy Wonka for the first time and i have to say i walked away extremely disappointed and underwhelmed. I had been looking forward to buying one but after playing this and the playfield issues im thinking of holding off. I wanted to ask owners and people who have had more time on the game thier opinions. These are the points i left with.
1st. Game was dark like hands down the darkest jjp ive ever seen. The Upper left corner was pitch black and i couldn't see what was back there. Couldnt see the pops either. I've seen a few streams and the game was a lot brighter than this.

This can easily be fixed with backboard lighting (see pic)

2nd. People say this game shoots like butter and the shots are satisfying. I didn't see it. The flippers(at least on this game) had just enough power to barely make it up the ramps. 90% of all shots couldn't make it up ramps, orbits or really anything. Just came right back and drained.

No issues with flippers on my game, good and strong. Sounds like a power issue and/or flippers turned down.

3rd. This game is a brutal drain monster. I heard what people had said and didnt think it would be too bad but boy was i wrong. That left outlane is the stuff of nightmares. Game is right up there with Ghost-busters and star wars. Played 5 games lasted barely 8 minutes

Depends on how you set the game up, posts can be moved on right and left outlanes.

4th. I had no idea what i was supposed to do. I played 5 games and not once did i start a mode, or do anything. I came to the machine with no knowledge and left even more confused than when i started. I stuck around and watched other people play and all were just as frustrated as I was. One customer even went over to the staff and asked what she was supposed to do.

As with most jjp games, it takes a while to learn the rules, once you do, you have better appreciation. Jurassic Park rules aren’t obvious either.

5th. I saw the pooling of the clear coat by the slings that have plauged Wonkas and it's a lot more noticeable than i thought it would be. The jurrasic park had washers on it's slings as well.

Known issue, I didn’t have any playfield issues. Adding star posts and washers seems to work to cover/prevent issues from getting worse.194A26DC-8912-4C91-BE16-BF5F8549F1EA (resized).jpeg

#2474 1 year ago
Quoted from Gasoline:

Just curious on the group's thoughts. Would a .pdf version not be satisfactory to all?
Would the ability to pull up documentation on a tablet or smart phone or print up the pages you need on paper work for everyone?
Fewer and fewer appliance vendors have printed owners manuals included nowadays. It's all "Online" to reduce costs.

I'd be good with a PDF. They are nice collectors items, but having a PDF for reference would be nice to have. Could always print and bind on my own if needed.

#2549 1 year ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

I have found it to be highly variable depending on the speed of the ball when it hits the switch. Once or twice I have had it strike just right and actually throw the ball all the way through the spinner!

same here variable. Most times it will shoot it around the wonkavision, but I've had it fall short and hit the top of the gum targets.

#2556 1 year ago

Got my factory mod from mezel today. Looks amazing, nice quality. Took about 15 mins to install without directions. Such a nice touch...and it fits and looks great with my mushroom field.
IMG_20190920_140933 (resized).jpgIMG_20190920_140938 (resized).jpg

#2560 1 year ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

So it's more orange than red? I think the prototype pictures were more standard red.

It's red, it's my phone camera, I used Google night sight. Here's two more with flash on and off. I can assure you it's red in person, my phone is just not capturing it wll.

IMG_20190920_150114 (resized).jpg00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20190920150550838_COVER (resized).jpg
#2563 1 year ago
Quoted from LukyDuck:

I like it! Nice addition.
So when did Freehold become upper/lower? lol I was born there. Back then it was just Freehold. But there were also lots of cows and farms!
I would like to buy a WW. Just too many NIB’s at the moment that I like and am unable to make a decision yet.

been that way a long time, back into the 1800s. there is still freehold, but I am in western monmouth county, where there are still a lot of farms, mainly horse and tree farms. there is no lower.

#2564 1 year ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

Any chance we'll ever see those mods in an injection molded form? I'd like to see them professionally done. Not a huge fan of 3D printed scan-lines.
I thought there were clear tube covers with that mod?

I just checked the box and there is a plastic tube in it, I missed it, back to install it.

The 3d lines are only visible in close up shots, the quality looks very good to me

IMG_20190920_160025 (resized).jpg
#2570 1 year ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

Since i had my interest in pinball rewaken(english?) a year or so ago.
Modifications is what is puzzling me the most.
Almost without exception, most of it seems like McDonald happy meal stuff.
I"ve seen some cool stuff, (like the chest-opening in pirates), but most are non-interacting plastic.
Just for this "factory", why not put an opto inside and have it Actually Do something, When a ball passes thru?
I'm sorry to say it is lacklusyer, but i really think it is for the most.
Another thing that I've been thinking about...
Is there some unwritten rule, that you can't mod/decorate the pinball legs?
Why are there no dinosaur legs for jurasic park? Chocolate bar legs for wonka etc?

You have a choice of a piece of plastic with a sticker of some sort on it or this beautifully printed factory. Why does this particular mod have to be interactive? An opto inside to do what? And where are these happy meal mods I keep reading about?

#2577 1 year ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Just his opinions, man. Settle down.

Sorry, just getting frustrated with a lot of the negativity lately on pinside.

2 weeks later
#2730 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Got an issue I’m unable to resolve. Randomly my Gobstopper VUK will just fire, usually once it starts, it will then continue to randomly fire every minute or so. No pattern. In fact sometimes it will randomly fire even if I never hit the Gobstopper lock. I’ve checked all connections and can’t see anything amiss. Also, everything works as intended in test mode. Thoughts?

Sounds like a flaky or loose opto. Make sure they are seated properly.

#2741 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Ive wiggled the wires around. Is there anything specific to do since these don’t unplug?

Just make sure the are all seated properly. I was thinking they may not be and the vibration during game play was causing them to trigger and the coil to fire. Maybe vuk switch is having an issue?

#2743 1 year ago

Just updated the code to 1.25 and played a few games. I believe I noticed a few new scenes with speech, including at the factory gates and entering the factory. I do hate the ball going sdtm from the pops, very cheap drain. I’ll have to see if I can fix that, maybe a thicker rubber on the post above the gob stopper to deflect it.

#2748 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Maybe I’m overlooking something. The wires going to the VUK, appear to be directly connected? They don’t seem like they can be unplugged or “reseated”.
In addition to the VUK coil randomly going off, the subway coil will also randomly start firing, just on a more quicker interval like every second. I’ve attached a YouTube video that shows the game on, and PF lifted enough to record the coil firing.

I was referring to the optos being seated properly. Check the switches that activate the coil(s), the coils fire when the switch is activated. You can put the game in switch test mode and I’d bet the switches associated with those coils are active.

2 weeks later
#2973 1 year ago
Quoted from BigSilverPin:

thanks! i went thru the entire menus lasts night and saw how the options change for each difficulty. For now I am going to make the kickback one level easier (2>1). Was nice to find the options to change the color of the score display, add my LE# to the screen, and to increase the brightness of the LED inserts. All very nice additions. Anyone have any luck installing LED lights underneath/behind an LE cabinet yet? I saw some options in the menu for that.

I've installed LEDs in the bottom of my SE, will work on the LE too. It won't function like the CE as the code is different, but we offer it with a switch if you want to dim it or have it with a fade pattern for single color, or with an RGB option. Will be up on our sight this weekend...expo got in the way. You can contact me as well if you are interested.

#2992 1 year ago

I have an SE, never seen airballs anywhere in the game. Stock flipper settings.

#3069 1 year ago
Quoted from BigSilverPin:

What do you mean here about the the gold bolts? Also, is anyone else having a problem with their lockdown bar? Mine takes a lot of effort to lock into place, and often requires a few minutes of jimmying until the mechanism fits/looks properly.

You can adjust the lock bar mechanism with the two screws under the lock bar.

#3093 1 year ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

I see that some ledboards has empty "spotlight" connectors.
Is it possible to plug some extra spotlights in these boards?
I would like to ad 2 extra spotlights to light up the middle playfield.

I don't think it will work right. You can tap into the existing spots, they are all on the same board, but dont think you can plug into the other boards where there are open headers labeled "spotlight" and get a steady light. I've tested it and haven't had good results.

#3095 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I guess I cut my teeth on incandescent older machines.
Wonka SE with the backboard light mod seems plenty lot to me.
With the backboard lighting and the Mezal Mods factory divertor mod I feel like my SE is what it should be,the only other thing I’m thinking of doing is the Lermods Wonkavator.Waiting for Black Friday for discount. Hint Hint

I wish I could discount the wonkavator, but it's a joint venture and I don't get much from it. It's a lot of labor to make and wire it.

#3097 1 year ago
Quoted from pascal-pinball:

maybe some of the modders can make this?
2 small white spots/leds with an Y-splitter to hook up on the other spots/leds.

Been working on it...just have to make a cover for the brackets so they blend in.


IMG_20191029_200016 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191029_200023 (resized).jpg

#3141 1 year ago


+ Addition * Change/bugfix - Note

== Version 01.31 October 31, 2019 ==
== MD5 Checksum: d0182da94857a538b0988d8808d5360f ==

- Note: This is a "full" install release.

=== Game Code
+ Added speech from Julie Dawn Cole for the Collector's Edition.
* Fixed bug where double bonus was awarded from Collect Bonus.
+ Added press start to serve a ball in the Wonkavator device test.
* Fixed bug where you could lock a ball in the Wonkavator on a quick plunge.
* Various other bug fixes and improvements

#3176 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Yeah I've noticed a lot of "encouragement" callouts in this version. "Perfect execution" etc.
You's trolling, fake GrandpaJoe, I know I suck!

Same here, downloaded the new code last night, quite a few new things. Game just keeps getting better and better. I like how on a full install, there is no need to back up settings and scores as they all remained. Nice work JJP!

#3180 1 year ago
Quoted from spandol:

Is that the case? I thought for a full install you needed to but the delta updates you didn't. Wasn't so hard doing a backup and restore though.

There is an option to do a factory reset while the game is installing the new code by hitting both flipper buttons. Do nothing and everything remains.

#3239 1 year ago
Quoted from crobby:

New guy question since my machine seems to have the same issue: What's the best way to get the wire out of and back into that connector?

It will be very tough to get the wire out and not damage it. You need something very thin, but rigid to push it out. If you've never done it, I'd think you'll damage it. I'd call jjp and maybe they can send you a new wire harness.

#3275 1 year ago

We've finished our Wonka spotlights and covers to help brighten up the lower playfield area a little, works well in conjunction with our trough light but also as a standalone mod. It doesn't flood the area with light but does help brighten it. This is a 3d printed cover with a 3 SMD light strip inside and a decal on top. It's available on our site and in our pinside shop. Note that this replaces one of the four existing spotlights already in the game as there are no available spotlight connections. The empty ones you see in the game are not enabled during game play. I could have wired them so they are always on, but that would ruin certain modes.


IMG_20191113_095522 (resized).jpg
#3278 1 year ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Our Wonka has been on location since mid July, and has about 2000 plays. People seem to like it, however we've had a few issues with ours. Posting here in case others see something similar.
- Like many others with early games, we've got clearcoat chipping around posts and some pooling. I haven't tried to reach out to JJP about this.
- The factory ball diverter wasn't working. Relay/coil tabs were grounding out on the metal, and shorted the coil out. We were seeing some resets related to this.
- The transistor for the ball diverter was shorted, likely due to the coil short. The transistor was replaced, but still did not resolve the issue. JJP sent a new diverter relay/coil, and power driver board.
- With the new driver board and coil installed, the game was still constantly resetting when the kid-multiball shot was hit.
- When one switch on a row was being triggered, all switches in that row would as well.. this was happening on three different rows. JJP provided us another driver board which resolved this.
- Game resets still happening when hitting kid multiball. Eventually discovered that there was some wire exposed on the replaced factory/diverter coil that when the kid multiball shot was hit, would sometimes vibrate and ground out on the ball guide.. arcing HV and causing a reset. Electrical tape over the bare spot and this solved the issue. (This HV short was likely causing damage to the driver boards..)

Quoted from crobby:

Those issues sound familiar. My game was born on July 1 and had the same problem with the diverter coil. In fact, I just finished swapping out the board last Saturday. Turns out that there was supposed to be a piece of fish paper in that assembly that would have likely prevented the short that killed my transistor/fuse/coil.
While dealing with that issue was rather annoying (game wasn't really playable for over 2 weeks--we tried replacing just the coil first which cost some more time), I should say that JJP has been excellent in their support and I learned a bunch about the inner workings of the game. Plus a bonus for me is that I got a lot better at hitting the kid multiball shot since there was no diverter for me to feed the upper left flipper.

any chance either of you can post a pic of where the short was occurring? others might want to check their games.

#3306 1 year ago
Quoted from mtp78:

So I got my le sitting next to potc and DI. Wonka seems really dark with lights off.so much I cant follow the ball that well.
The middle and back of the machine is dim. What are you guys using for extra lighting ? I am not a fan of pin stadiums . Anyone ? Thx

Here are some options we offer, but I’d suggest trough and backboard lights.


1 week later
#3373 1 year ago
Quoted from HarryReimer:

Must have mod for your standard.. fills that empty space. Easy install.[quoted image]

Thx! And it fits all versions of the game and is interactive, turning on and off and spinning with the wonkavator super lock insert. Earlier versions had an external spotlight, but we felt the effect was minimal given the brightness of the light inside the wonkavator. Makes for an easier install too. We are currently out of stock, but are allowing backorders. We expect to have 5 in stock ready to ship next week. These take a long time to make and are assembled in several pieces plus the wiring.

Glad the feedback is positive, it is a very cool mod.

#3378 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

How can an early adopter get the inside light? Looks so much better.

Hmmm, I thought we made inside lights for all of them. And also included the spotlight. Mine was the first I made and it has a light inside. If yours didn't have one, I could probably make you one, but you might need to solder two wires to be able to feed it out of the wonkavator. Could have sworn we didn't make any without inside lights. Newer units also have a 3d printed box to house the relay board, which cannot be retrofitted.

Send me a pm if yours didn't have an inside light.

#3416 1 year ago

Thx, it’s actually ours, mezel is one of our resellers. With our rgb, you can choose colors, including white, or have it rotate through all the colors, which is my preference.


#3442 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Hooray! Glad to hear it. This was a heart-stopping experience for me yesterday on POTC

Anyone know what’s causing this?

#3444 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I thought of this when I started modding my SE,if someone wants to speculate feel free

I’m thinking not because The SE isn’t coded for it.

#3460 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Sweet,and I really like the backglass lighting I wish JJP would just add at factory


1 week later
#3546 1 year ago

Added a stern spike shaker from pinballlife. Shaker integration is really well done in this game, among the best I’ve seen. It’s not just hit something and it goes off, but in some cases it’s integrated into the code and continually pulses. Well worth it.

#3574 1 year ago
Quoted from TonyScoots:

This is a video of the Waterfall Animated Topper
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/ww/ww_topper.mp4[quoted image][quoted image]

I wish they would have done it like wh2o.

#3632 1 year ago

Anyone ever see this, game is off but my coindoor lights are still on? What's weirder is Elvira is next to Wonka and when i turn Elvira off the lights go off. Its like Wonka is somehow drawing power from Elvira. The games are plugged into different circuits too.
IMG_20191223_215217 (resized).jpg

#3640 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Sharing anything? External Sub? Amplifier?

Polk External sub. I disconnected wonka from it and the lights went off. Why would that happen? Never seen it before with other games.

Could it be I have wires on the speaker terminals reversed? Wonka is obvious as positive is marked red on the cabinet sub. But Elvira isn’t marked. I have negative hooked to the yellow wire with a black stripe.

#3644 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It was the first possibility I thought of when you said shutting off the adjacent machine affected it. Definitely some kind of wiring issue, then.
So you're using the Stern cabinet woofer leads to go to the sub? That's not ideal. You can make a sub-out lead that is specifically for subwoofers if you have the right revision of CPU board (not all the Spike boards have it). What's the model of CPU board in Elvira?

Not sure of the cpu model, but it’s the first time I’ve ever seen this. Yes, using alligator clips, I clip to the cabinet speaker terminals and run them to the external sub, same as I do for every game I’ve ever owned. I reversed the leads on the cabinet sub and it still happened. I have external subs for all my games, 2 to each sub, and never had an issue like this. I went ahead and ordered the pinnovators sub hook up for spike games, which I believe will address the issue. The sound improves when I have Elvira on the sub so I’m pretty sure my hookup is correct, just not clear why voltage would leak through. Pretty odd.

1 week later
#3673 1 year ago

Rather than start more threads and ask people to vote, I’ll just post once here and ask people to vote for our Wonkavator for mod of the year if they liked it. Enough said. Thx.


#3703 1 year ago

I thought the ramp switch looked out of place so we obscured it with a lollipop matching one on the playfield.


00100dPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20200105143655326_COVER (resized).jpgIMG_20200105_144308_700 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#3865 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Id get that Wonkavator as well... Not sure how much that lights up the area. Need to see for myself. Can always add the RGB light strip if needed I suppose.

Thx..it's not really meant to light up the area, just the wonkavator itself during wonkavator ball locks via the super lock insert. For light in the back, we offer an RGB backboard light, which adds a lot of light and can be controlled/dimmed.

I have one wonkavator in stock and should have more in a week or so.

#3893 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Man, I really cannot make up my mind on what model to get here lol. Thanks for all the help with my questions and sorry for hijacking the thread the last couple days...

I have the SE, love it. Don't miss the Wonkavator at all. The gap between the two models is too high for what you get. It's the widest gap for any JJP game that has come before it. You can add a shaker for $79.

#3896 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Im sure you have, but have you had fair time with an LE with wonkavator?
Back when I first started getting into the hobby, I bought my first machines, TWD Pro. I later regretted not getting the Premium as I felt I was missing out on some cool stuff... I said I would never make that mistake again. Year or so later, bought a GB Premium and never regretted it.
Now im back to the decision haha. My fear of missing out is my issue ha. But I agree, the jump in price is what is making this so hard.

I'm not sure I would say a fair time, but I've played it at shows, last time was in October at expo. Don't get me wrong, the Wonkavator is a cool feature and I like it, but I don't feel the need to have it and for me the price gap is simply too much on this one. The SE plays very well. If the price was $1000 between the models, I'd likely get the LE for the wonkavator, glass, shaker and whatever else you get (powder coating maybe). DILE and DI standard were $1000 apart and it was worth it to get the LE for the ramp lights, powder coating, glass and other things.

#3921 1 year ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

SE owner here. ZERO regrets. I added my own upgrades and I have everything I want.

I agree. Add up the individual things you get on the se vs the le and then you can calculate what the wonkavator is really costing you. Powder coat ~$200-400, shaker $79, invisiglass $300, external sound $35. We are talking roughly $1200-$1400 for the wonkavator. Totally respect the fact that people like the LE and want the wonkavator, but for me, it made little sense as I don’t feel it adds that much to gameplay overall. it’s not about penny pinching or affordability, I am an le and premium buyer mostly. They should have done what they did on DI LE with a $1000 difference, or offered more for the LE buyers, like different code or sound package, or a topper. Or truly made the LE limited, not make 5000 of them.

#3937 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Se is a great value and offers most everything but I knew it was a keeper so I wanted the beautiful le with the full game. Yea you can add lightning and a wonkavator toy but it's still not the same and the game does play fundamentally different in some cases and I'll gladly keep the ball out of those pops as much as possible. Plus alot of lighting is in that area that really adds to the beautiful lightshows. Also I'd rather have the powder coating done so I dont have to take everything apart and have my game down for a little while. Also look for a huo le like I did and save 1000- 1500 over nib +shipping cost then its definitely worth it over the se. I also got lots of awesome mods allready on my game that probably saved me another 600. My advice is if you think it's a keeper pin get the le and enjoy its beauty and everything it offers. Both seem to lose about the same on the used market so if u do need to sell there's that. Good luck and I'm sure whatever you choose u will be happy with.

if you got a huo le for $8-$8.5, that’s a great deal and suggests LEs are not holding value very well. If I could have bought an LE for that price, I would have, you did well. I think the SE go for around 7-7300.

#4026 1 year ago
Quoted from waldo34:

Does this look correct? Almost scared to turn the thing on.[quoted image]

You will blow something with that connection, unplug it. One blue plug is for the topper and I think the other is for undercab lights, which is only enabled for the CE I believe. What your splitter is plugged (Connector with black and yellow wires) into is an extra power source.

1 week later
#4096 1 year ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

So just got my Wonka, is it my game or is the GI very dark on Wonka?[quoted image]

The game is very dark. Here are some lighting options you might consider


#4155 1 year ago

my high is 4.3 mil, but i'm stuck at around 1.8 for an average decent game. what do you guys shoot to boost your point total?

#4167 1 year ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

How many wires is the topper? If there is only 2, I’m sure you could use something like this, would just need to know the voltage.[quoted image]

Quoted from bigd1979:

I'm sure someone like lernmods cld do something fairly inexpensive?

I’m thinking they used addressable leds and that dimmer won’t work. I could certainly supply a dimmer and the plug and play connection if someone wanted to try it. Send me a pm and Ill just need a little info.

#4193 1 year ago
Quoted from titanpenguin:

I thought the power supply was all that was connected on the LE topper. That’s why the dimming function on the CE didn’t work.

Don’t know how they wired the leds in the topper. I’m sending someone a wired plug and play dimmer to test. Will update when he tries it.

#4194 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Also.. How the hell do you get the packing foam out from behind Wonkavision??!! lol

Be very careful taking the foam out behind the wonkavision. You can damage the connector if you pull it out to hard.

#4203 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

So I just fired this bad boy up. Awesome.. But really? Not post on the left? I played two games real quick and all balls drained there. Thats a crazy drain!!
Also, is this how the backbox GI should look? Just looks like a lot of lost artwork with no lights..[quoted image]

Yes, there are no lights around the translight. We offer the rgb mod


F509D67B-5F17-4C9B-BB65-F2225D32C268 (resized).jpeg
#4319 1 year ago
Quoted from suave84:

Anyone making interactive under cabinet lights yet for Wonka?

Check with Rock. Rock914

#4321 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

He was waiting for the manual for the wiring diagram. So ... he should be able to start on it. I hope.

I'll reach out to him to see if I can help him get it going.

1 week later
#4493 1 year ago
Quoted from Ambro:

Just received my Wonka CE and it is truely amazing, but unfortunately I've got an issue straight out of box that maybe somebody here can help me with. The game starts and says to go into the test screen. The test screen says that the camera can not be intialized and another screen says the camera can not be found. I have opened the backbox up and have traced the camera to the USB port. I've removed and reseated both the USB connection and the connection directly behind the camera without any luck. I've also upgraded the firmware to 1.33 but this hasn't helped either. I've put a service ticket in to JJ but do any of the gurus out there have any suggestions to try to get this working?

I had two bad cameras on my potc, one was dead right out of the box from jjp. You’ll likely need a replacement.

#4514 1 year ago
Quoted from jfrazie:

Hey guys.
I’m really struggling with how dark this game is. I struggle even seeing the ball sometimes.
Ordered some Comet spotlights and SMD strips, but there aren’t any conventional LEDs under the playfield to plug them in to!
Does anyone have any advice on adding spotlights? Really don’t like pinstadium or the price tag, but I’ll go that way if necessary.

A relatively inexpensive option to help with lighting.


#4517 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinfactory2000:

Interesting. Wish you could choose the color and brightness once you receive it..can you? Don’t want to totally puke out the game but also don’t want stark white overly bright areas either.
Maybe pin stadiums are the answer if not?
Edit: not sure why the downvote Lol? What did I say that hurt your feelings? Just inquiring about the mod...

Yes, if you choose the rgb option, you can choose color, level of brightness and speed of the color changing effect.


#4537 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Same as I do with any brand... I have always clipped them to the cab speaker with no issues.

That’s what I always did for every pin, then I bought a pinnovators Pinsub and noticed a very significant difference. Deeper and crisper bass compared to the alligator clips. Now I have them on all my games, including wonka.

#4541 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Cool.. but it's not needed to use a powered sub. Options are nice tho but the old school way works just fine for my needs. Its pinball not my home theater system lol.

I had two pins hooked up to my psw10 with clips, one was wonka, the other Elvira. I was getting feedback from the ground into wonka. It was weird, when wonka was off and Elvira on, the coindoor lights would be lit on wonka. Figured that likely wasn’t good so I got the pinnovators product and the issue went away. I had never seen that before, but you are creating a ground loop when two pins are hooked to the same sub with alligator clips.

#4546 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Pinsub (pinnovator) is a complete waste from my experience. Glad others are getting value but I did a comparison and noticed no difference.
Alligator clips all day.

Sorry you couldn't hear a difference, it’s very noticeable to me. But I am happier knowing I’m not potentially causing grounding issues across games. I’ve been using alligator clips to subs for years, never had an issue, until I did, and immediately changed. I also have their mixer, which allows me to hook up four games to the same sub with individual volume control. A game like wonka doesn’t have great sound and I had to turn the sub volume up to get better effect. But if you also have a game like AFMr, which has great sound, hooked to that same sub, you’d have to turn the volume back down.

#4549 1 year ago
Quoted from judremy:

Do other people have a few loud pops from the speakers when you first turn on Wonka, before the screen starts showing the files being loaded?


#4571 1 year ago
Quoted from HarryReimer:

I have a Wonka SE and I installed the headphone adapter. It works, however since I installed it. The game now turns on, then off, the on again and boots fine. Anyone have any ideas?
Here is a video.

Mine does the same thing, I think it’s normal.

1 week later
#4622 1 year ago
Quoted from Adipocere:

Consider mirror blades. It’s a tight fit but they can be installed without removing the playfield. You just have to remove the hinge on each side (Allen wrench and some elbow grease if one of yours is as tight as mine was). I think mirrors are a great match for this game and look better than any of the art options I’ve seen.

I didn’t have to remove hinges to install mirror blades. The ones from cointaker come with a hole cut out for the hinge bolt.

#4639 1 year ago
Quoted from HomerEBW:

So it finally happened. After 1 month of having my very first pinball machine it stops booting into the game.
This is what happens...
- I turn the power on.
- Comes to JJP splash screen and the screen is backlit
- After 5 seconds the screen is no longer backlit
- Then it says No Signal
Here is a video on what happens - pardon the bad phone quality

This happens every once in a while. So I would turn it off and turn it back on again and it would boot into the game. Now it won't boot to the game anymore.
Has anyone had this issue or know how to fix it?

I think people were saying earlier to short the cmos pins. Search the thread for LTG’s or vireland’s posts for pics and instructions.

1 month later
#4845 1 year ago
Quoted from jimbodeanny:

Thanks. Yeah, I just watched the youtube video of the Wonkavator on their website and mine is substantially louder. I'll email them. Thanks again!

You may have a faulty motor. We saw this one other time and replaced the motor for the customer. I reached out to you via email.

#4852 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

ill give it a try. but man, this weekend especially was very frustrating. My nudging skills arent the best but this should be good practice ha.
Question for you guys getting consistent scores of over a million or so... Did you keep the stock left drain or add a post?

i did not add a post, but did move the left outlane post to the center position.

I had my highest score over the weekend of 5.1 million, 228 wonka bars, but only one golden ticket. How do you start Ransom?

#4868 1 year ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Quick question on the rules. I've been playing for a while and I can't seem to figure out what causes the diverter to be enabled. I'm referring to the one that is on the left ramp that drops it down to the upper left flipper.

when super lock is lit and i think when you are in 2x wonka bars the diverter engages drops the ball. Might be (probably are) others but pretty sure on those two.

1 week later
#4937 11 months ago

I find wonka to be a much better game than DI and I wouldn't want to own them both as they are similar lawlor games. DI is like tz on steroids, which is a good thing, but it gets a little stale as you basically are hitting the scoop starting the modes and trying to collect sim cards. It's not as easy as it might sound, but it's just very linear. There are side modes, but the game just doesn't do it for me. Wonka has more randomness to it and a better overall rule set. I sold my DI about a year ago and do not miss it. Wonka fills the void very well.

#4998 11 months ago
Quoted from Pinash:

Does anyone know the height of the cab +backbox when folded? I've transported Stern/WB/Data East, and some of them were a little tight (but fit). I want to make sure Wonka will fit before I do the drive....

It’s about 30”, maybe slightly less. Shorter than a stern, about the same as a bw.

2 weeks later
#5213 11 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Pinnovators has a good solution that isolates the ground. Some people have had a problem with just connecting right to the speaker without isolating it. You may not have that problem, just a heads up for it.

Yeah, I had issues with the ground when I had connected Elvira and wonka to the same sub. I switched to the pinnovators setup and it works great and sounds awesome.

#5231 11 months ago

do you know where the ball is getting stuck? i had an issue where mine was getting stuck on the right side where it kicks out. the coil sleeve was about a half mm too high and was causing the ball to hang up. I filed it down and it's been good since.

#5236 11 months ago
Quoted from TonLoc777:

Here is a video.

Looks like something is out of alignment. I haven’t taken mine apart so not sure where the adjustment is but it looks like the part that rotates inside is a little too low and the ball is getting caught on the lip.

1 week later
#5277 10 months ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

I have my two stern machines on smart plugs. The games switch is always on and I just remotely turn the smart switch on when I want to play and they are all booted up when I get downstairs.
Would this be bad to do with a JJP game? Im planning on getting a wonka. thanks

It’s fine as long as you allow the game too boot up properly.

1 week later
#5316 10 months ago

Excellent, thanks for showing the revised wonkavator.

#5334 10 months ago
Quoted from KLR2014:

In for a WWLE and the place I normally by my JJPs have them in stock with production dates around June/July 2019. Now I know there can be issues with the clear. But seeing it had the time to cure for a year I’m not so concerned about it. are there any other things that are different with models build after October 2019 ?

I wouldn't worry about it. Worst that will happen is you will have some minor pooling at the sling posts. Remove the post, iron the pooling down and add a neoprene washer under the post. You’ll never have an issue again.

1 week later
#5378 10 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Getting ready to join this club (hopefully this week) with a NIB Standard. I sold my Metallica that I bought NIB 3+ years ago (which I thought I would never sell) but I am just determined to own my first JJP game and something had to go both space and cash wise, and my other 2 games (Iron Maiden and Deadpool) are too new to think about selling THEM yet.
I already have a question even before the game arrives. I always put mirror blades in my games, and typically buy the ones from Cointaker. I think someone earlier in this thread mentioned that the Bally/Williams remake ones fit this game, but have to be cut slightly to make them fit just right. Can someone elaborate on exactly what needs to be cut? I already ordered the blades so I will have to make it work one way or another...
Very excited to pick up this new game soon! Thanks in advance for all the help I've already received from the posts in this topic.

I bought mirror blades from cointaker, I didn’t have to make any cuts to get them to fit.

#5380 10 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Do you remember if they were the Williams/Bally remake variety? That's what I ordered...

I think so, but it’s been a while. Ask them and they will steer you to the correct ones.

1 week later
#5448 9 months ago
Quoted from robgo777:

Just picked up a NIB Wonka LE the other day to add to my collection. I picked up the Lermods Wonkavator for it as I think it is one of the best mods our there for this title. Unfortunately I didn't see any other posts about installing their version on an LE/CE so I wanted to share my experience with you.
Attached are some photos of the installation. The instructions suggest using the mounting bracket that is at the foot of the mod and attaching it to the ramp screw just behind the Ooompa Loompa camera man. The first couple of photos illustrate this. Two things I didn't like about mounting it that way. First the wonkavator ends up partially hidden behind the oompa loompa. Second, it ends up being tilted a bit. I played around with that location... tried rotating the mod around into different positions but was unable to find a good spot that made sense.
Luckily I had a spare bracket out of a scared stiff ramp repair kit:
I installed one end of the bracket onto that same ramp screw and used the other end to mount to the wonkavator. I had to bend the bracket a little so that the wonkavator would sit in the position I wanted it to. In the end the mod was positioned perfectly (at least IMHO). No issues with the ball going up the ramp either. One other adjustment I had to make was to the spotlight that is right behind the secret machine. After I turned the game on the light was directed right at the wonkavator which made it look strange. I loosened up the screw for the spotlight and rotated it over to the corner. That got the light off the mod and also brightened up the corner some more.
Next step was to install the included power supply box which houses the relay and the light sensor that activates the wonkavator. The instructions weren't clear on where to mount this so I chose to place it as per the attached images. There was another open spot over next to where the playfield bracket is but I didn't like it that close to the bracket. I ran the light sensor underneath the upper right flipper assembly and everything fit nicely.
Rob is a friend of mine and I shared with him all of my feedback. I think he may look into placing another mounting bracket on the other side of the wonkavator for the LE/CE models. In the meantime, a $9 bracket from Marco would allow you to install the mod the way I have shown.
P.S. If you do not bend the bracket down enough the wonkavator will sit too high and the top point will come in contact with the playfield glass.
Hope this helps somebody, and I am glad to be part of the club!
Best Regards,
Robert Goebel
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thx, if anyone has any questions please let us know.

I also wanted to take this opportunity to offer for a limited time a free Wonka Tophat with any minimum purchase of $99 of Wonka mods. This hat is printed off of thingiverse and we paint it, we are not selling it. I've seen others selling them, but to be honest I don't understand why they are any other color but red to match his hat in the game and topper (if you have one.)

IMG_20200617_145208 (resized).jpgIMG_20200617_145228 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#5543 9 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

I have a slight flipper issue with my NIB SE that I've only had for a few weeks.
The upper left flipper only will sometimes not return fully to the resting position. In the past when I've seen this problem, it has always been the return spring being stretched or broken. In this case, though, the spring appears to be identical to the other 3 flippers which are working perfectly.
If I manually move the flipper, it always seems to go back to the normal resting position as expected - this problem only seems to occur during gameplay. The coil is seated tightly and I don't feel any unusual friction when I move the flipper manually.
Should I just replace the spring, even though it doesn't appear to be faulty from visual inspection? If so, does anyone know if JJP flippers use the same return springs as Stern? (I have a ton of Stern springs in my parts box)

I would check to make sure all the screws holding the mech and the plate are tight. If any are loose, it can cause friction with the sleeve and cause the behavior you describe.

1 week later
#5569 9 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Yeah it's a lifechanger! For the life of me I don't understand why it doesn't come from the factory that way. I wish I had tried doing this with the $9 LED strip from Walmart instead of the expensive one from LERmods... I think the result would have been similar!

As with most mods, parts aren't expensive, but labor is. It's always cheaper if you can DIY. Our wonka translite is RGB and is done with 5 independent strips to allow for the camera to not be impacted, not causing binding of the strips at the corners and allowing the monitor to be pulled out. That's a lot of soldering.
We provide a mount so the strips face forward for maximum effect (I've seen some that just adhere to the side of the monitor, which will work, but I think with less effect). You also need an RGB controller and need to know how to crimp connectors and what connectors to use, where to plug in, etc. It's all pretty time consuming. For our POTC, DI, Hobbit and Woz translight mods we use single color with a dimmer, and that is about half the price of the RGB version.

We appreciate your business, just wanted to provide a little insight on what goes into it.

#5572 9 months ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Oh please don't construe my remarks as a slight of you guys in any way!
I was pretty impressed with the way the whole package was put together and realize that all of that comes with a cost! I am a person who rarely attempts DIY things anyway... and I appreciate products that are well made and are certainly worth the fact that I can just install them and not have to spend all the time putting them together!

no offense taken at all, it's all good and I totally respect those who want to DIY or are even thinking about it.

Quoted from Rager170:

Curious, do you offer a single color with dimmer for Wonka for half the price? I would only want it to be white to show like how it comes stock, but lighting up the areas that arent lit...

Yes, we can do white (warm or cool) all around the sides and bottom, it's $66 shipped. you can order off our POTC page since we don't offer it specifically for wonka, but it's the identical set up and connection.


#5582 9 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Wait, I thought the RGB was to change the color of the translite completely, like if you wanted it green, or blue or....
Or are you saying that when it switches colors it makes them pop?
Can someone send a video of the RGB changing colors?

you can have it fade through colors as shown in video or choose a specific color you want, including white.

#5587 9 months ago
Quoted from romulusx:

If you do use just the $66 white only,does the existing translite led stay in place?

Yes, that’s just the sides, but if you want the top replaced too, I can do that at no charge, Just reach out to me separately. As I stated earlier, single color is a lot less labor than rgb.

#5595 9 months ago
Quoted from inverted1:

The video really looks nice! I also was wondering what the cycling lights would look like and honestly didn't think I would care for it. Was thinking of going DIY route and just adding white LEDs. After seeing the video, I'll probably just order the RGB one. While I could spend the time to figure it all out, I really don't want to. I do appreciate the value in not having to go through all that would be required, and the small satisfaction of DIY and cost savings would not be enough for me to do my own. I recently went through the same thought process with a pop eliminator and was glad I didn't create my own. Putting that video on your web site would be good, it says so much more than the static images. I see why you prefer it.

Video is on our website, you just have to scroll through the pics to see it.

#5604 9 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

So, if the $66 kit does not replace the stock lights, are the stock warm or cool white? Obviously I would want it to match the stock ones to have the same color throughout.

the stock on my standard is a cool white, around 4000k. In the video shown above, those lights look almost blue like 7000k, which is much further on the white scale. Since there are differences in colors, the best thing to do if you want it color matched exactly just let me know and I will include the top part for now at no extra charge.
white scale (resized).JPG

1 month later
#5869 7 months ago
Quoted from atg1469:

Apologies for the newbie question here, but I've never owned a JJP game before and not sure exactly how the code updating works. I purchased a pre-owned Willy Wonka and it appears the code running is version 1.13, which is well behind the latest update. So I'm wondering, can I update immediately to the latest code or do I have to update incrementally and work my way up to 1.31? Really hoping its the former and not the latter...

the game is updated via a USB device. the dongle for the USB is in the front of the cabinet, left side. with the game on, plug in the USB device and then go into the menu and find where you update the game. as simple as that.

Prior to doing this, go to the JJP support page on their website and determine if you need a full or delta update, then follow the directions depending on which update you need to do.

2 months later
#6401 5 months ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

I was wondering if anyone here has played the new stern avengers pin and can honestly compare it to to the “fun” factor of this pin. Because in the end that is what matters to me most. Only JJP pin I ever played was my buddy’s Wizard of Oz red ruby. It still has the stock light boards , and yes, it has issues. But it is a cool , different pin compared to his other Williams , Bally, Gottlieb, Atari, and Sterns.
I have on order an avengers premium, but getting a little frustrated by the delays in production (pushed back possibly as much as 5 weeks) as well as issues people are having with their Stern LEs. If I cancel my order, I’m out $1k, can’t do that, but I can change my order at no extra fee. My wife likes the theme of Willy Wonka and I was thinking of changing to this pin if they have it in stock and Dan muster up the extra cash.
What are your thoughts? I know they are completely different , but the theme for both of these is what my wife likes. I’d like a GNR, but my wife cancelled that idea, course the distributor doesn’t have that title in stock anyway yet.

I have an avengers LE, which I like a lot. But wonka is a better game and has a lot more to offer.

3 weeks later
#6654 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I had a camera go out myself. It's an easy part to replace.

I had two bad ones in my POTC, third one fixed it. I think maybe they had a bad batch. PoMC, you can plug your wonka camera into your DI and see if it works. If it doesn't you know camera is bad. if it does work, then something isn't right in your wonka game.

#6664 4 months ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Here's a closer look at the diverter area. These mods were already installed when I bought the game, so not sure where they came from. Only mods I installed was LED lighting around the backglass sides and bottom to evenly light it up. I also placed a green glow ball in the captive ball area just because I had one in my parts boxes.
[quoted image][quoted image]

looks like many came from us, wonkavator and the mushroom field/spotlight covers. The factory mod is from Mezelmods, but it’s missing the pipes.

#6667 4 months ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

Do you have to glue the clear “pipes” material to the grooves in the red pieces? Mine have come loose and I need to fix? Seems like gluing is the only way. ?

yes, a dab of hot glue will hold it, but I couldn't get one to stay in place so I just took it out.

The pipes were an add on I believe so maybe in the game PoMC has, the previous owner didn't buy them.

#6691 4 months ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Any want this pipe section for free? Just pay $8 shipping. I don't like the look of it and my wife actually pointed it out last night and asked what it did. She thought it was a switch and when I told her it was a mod, she said well take it off, it looks awful!
Looks like it has a crack in it too, so not durable.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think the pipes are pretty cool, when the ball passes through, the round handle spins.

#6698 4 months ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

They are if they stay in place...unfortunately I can't seem to get mine to do that

The red pieces or the clear plastic piece. I had trouble with the clear plastic, but not the red pieces.

1 month later
#6971 3 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Any guidance for adding spotlights? I see some open areas on the led boards but not sure how to add them in.
My Wonka is too dark to enjoy without having an overhead light on above it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You can’t use the open spotlight ports in those pics. They might work in attract mode, but they don’t work in game mode. You have to tap off an existing spotlight connection, there are three I believe. We do offer a set of wonka bar spotlights, but they are more meant for accent lighting and not to flood the playfield. The spots in the game are 5v.


3 months later
#8307 12 days ago
Quoted from HarryReimer:

I have the Lermods one, and I HIGHLY recommend it. It spins and flashes and looks great in that dead corner on my SE. As far as Im concerned its a must on a SE and would look great on an LE.

Thanks for all the positive remarks on our wonkavator. Just a heads up we are about a week behind to get these out as they have been selling faster than we can make them. People can still order, just expect it to be about a week to ship.

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lermods.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside