Quoted from waveform:

I got a December 2021 built LE a couple months back and have played about 450ish games so far. I see no issues with playfield clear bubbling around posts on mine, either. I also haven't had any issues with frequent sdtm drains out of the pops (I feel like that has to be something adjustable even on problem units, but I know some people have tried without great success to resolve it on their tables that do have that tendency). From playing the game elsewhere, I had already developed the habit of nudging the machine as the ball goes through that loop in hopes of getting some chaos in the pops - seems even less likely to go sdtm that way.
Add another voice in support of getting one - this is probably my favorite machine anywhere/ever.
On edit, to not be too breathlessly positive - a couple criticisms :
- The speakers on this game are awful, and I plan to replace them, probably with the jjp pinwoofer kit. The headphone output is great for solo play.
- Most of the switches (slingshots, standup targets) had huge gaps from the factory. Maybe this is normal for NIB games (Wonka is my first), but I found I need to adjust most of them so it doesn't take such a strong hit to trigger them, and some are a bit buried under bundles of wiring and things under the playfield.

Quoted from waveform:

Regarding flipper power, I was having more difficulty than I liked getting up the Factory ramp with the machine directly out of the box, unadjusted. I stumbled on this video

from JJP that suggested adjusting flipper end of stroke switches a bit. Mine definitely benefited from this change - keeps the higher power further into the flip, but still solidly closes the switch at the end to reduce to holding power. After this change, I was able to drop flipper power one point below the defaults while still making all the shots comfortably. That said, JJP games definitely seem to have a looser flipper feel than others, and increasing the power might be right for the way you want yours to play

I don't know whether anything has been changed related to that in production. I might have just gotten lucky with my setup out of the box.

Quoted from jackd104:

I have a Nov, ‘21 build. I don’t know what, if anything, was changed on newer runs, but the infamous sdtm from pops is not a problem. When the ball comes around the orbit, it glances the rubber (circled in pic - you can even see the black dust where it hits) and that throws it into the pops and it bounces around randomly and falls out. [quoted image]

Quoted from zaphX:

Some rules have been relaxed since that video - for example, it retains collected kids between balls now where it used to screw you over.
Also kid MB kid jackpots can be collected while the super is active now, stuff like that.
However the overall shots and rules are still the same.

Quoted from zaphX:

I can break it down simply.
Kid Multiball Ticket:
1. Qualify kids: (Agustus: spinners, MikeTV: blue shots under TV, Violet: GUM targets, Charlie: Start Fizzy Lifting, Veruca: Start Good/Bad Egg
2. Collect kids: Captive ball (note flashing color moves from captive to kid shot)
3. Start Kid MB: kid shot
4. Collect 7 Kid MB jackpots: Agustus: Loops, MikeTV: blue shot under TV, Violet: GUM targets, Charlie: right ramp, Veruca: left ramp. Double: Camera ramp. Super: Kid shot.
Gobstopper Ticket:
1. Hit gobstopper until it opens, lock ball. Repeat 3x.
2. In Gobstopper MB, shoot ramps until hole opens, sink ball in hole. Repeat to 5 to get ticket.
Factory Ticket:
1. Qualify modes. Blue: Factory (WONKA), Pink: Loops (SuperX), Orange: Captive ball.
2. Start modes at saucer. Repeat to start all 12 for ticket.
Wonkavator Ticket:
1. SuperLock to lock 3 balls.
2. Level 1: Shoot blue/yellow shots until gobstopper machine flashing, hit and sink all active balls but one.
2. Level 2: Same as level 1 but you can only hit each blue/yellow shot once. Finish for ticket.

Quoted from seenev:

Has anyone installed the Tilt graphics factory blades? Are they good? They look kind of washed out in the photos.

Quoted from adol75:

That adapter is likely a low pass filter. It makes sense since the subwoofer gets the full signal without it, which polluted the bass but you don't need to spend 35$ on it, a low pass filter costs 10$, 5 if you get a diy kit, it's just a bunch of resistors.

Quoted from mikepmcs:

I'm thinking this is what is happening. Follow the post in the link below.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/130#post-5943411
r/
Mike

Quoted from kempsuk:

Hi All
Gobstopper hole not always registering the ball has dropped into it... has to do a ball search, rotate the hole, then registers the drop. Other times can drop into the hole and registers straight away. Is there a switch for this inside the hole?
Also, should I raise the back legs to 6.7 / 6.8 for WW LE??
Thank you

Quoted from adol75:

I need help. My upper right flipper doesn't work anymore, no power at all. Where do I start ?

Quoted from Enron64:I have owned my wonka LE since May.
This is the most magical game I have ever played. I have enjoyed it so much I sold my LZ premium and AIQ pro to fund more JJPs. I bought a dialed in but it’s not really as magical to me. I have a GNR SE coming Sunday and was wondering what other JJPs games have that wonka magic?

Quoted from Green-Machine:

TS4

Quoted from Pinman2005:

Is there a link t buy this mod?