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Quoted from hiker2099:Man O man that would drive me crazy. Must be what The kids felt like Days before going to the Willy Wonka chocolate factory
Thanks
Quoted from SBrothers:Enjoy the anxious anticipation brother…that’s a “gift” all in itself!
Helps you rediscover your inner child on Christmas.
Something we all started to lose around the time that so called “friend” of yours debunked Santa Claus.
(We all had that same friend)
Wonka LE on Christmas Day?!?!
How awesome is that day gonna be? I bet you’ll be waking up at 3am.
Pro tip: secretly set all the clocks in your house ahead 2hrs (or so) before going to bed on Christmas. 2hrs is about the max you can push it cause the lack of sunrise blows the scam. Stupid G-type yellow-dwarf main sequence star.
Worth the wait. Just getting into it today. Cracked 10 million on it. Dare I say I like how it plays/flows more than GNR. I have been a single pinball machine person for 25 years. Started with a comet, got a TOTAN for $1900 after it was on route for 3 months (yeah wish i had that one back) Kept it 10 years. Did even swap for Simpsons. Kept that one 10 years and bought WOZ. That machine hooked me. I’m completely addicted to JJPs modern machines they are next level.
0A4302BE-6E49-4B48-BC8B-CA180BEB6093 (resized).jpeg517B5FC9-5EF0-42C0-A8F4-99230D631717 (resized).jpegC8D3D47F-0247-4015-A87B-026EBE089FD5 (resized).jpegDF629585-17A2-41F4-89E7-219BE5752572 (resized).jpegHad a screw fall out of diverter “plate” for Wonkavator - took a while to realize what was going on - long and short what a pain in the ass - there are 2 tiny machine screws that hold the diverted “plate” on to a coil post. One screw fell out and one completely
loosened up. Took 30 min to find that little SOB in the cabinet. Unless I’m missing something the Wonkavator assembly needs to be removed to get to this diverter. This operation wasn’t not too bad except for cutting the zip ties on the assembly wire harness. Once i got to the diverter I put a drop of blue lock-tight on each screw and hopefully it won’t happen again. Also if this ever happens to anyone else make sure to install the diverter plate back on the way it came off. If for some reason it gets turned around… the diverter post ends up on the wrong side and zero chance you would be able to tell just by looking at it. Turns out if you do accidentally put it on in the wrong orientation the opening isn’t enough for the ball to go through…… ask me how I know, or better yet ask me how many WTF’s were said trying to figure it out.
Anywho hopefully this is all I have to mess with for now and can continue to enjoy the game.
Quoted from 27dnast:I had the same issue. All you need to do is remove the coil assembly from below the playfield. Another Pinsider forwarded pics from JJP. Huge help. Was a 5 min fix. Also, he suggested adding blue loctite, so it won’t happen again.[quoted image][quoted image]
My 13 year old destroyed my high score by a country mile. Final score was 43 million. Best I had done was 3 golden tickets. He got all 5 and got to pure imagination. That was really cool to see and not really sure who was more excited. At least I still rule the roost on GNR
6E82441E-372F-4FD5-B7E3-CA7656B802E5 (resized).jpegBB91E8E1-FB57-4D95-9DD7-51270E276504 (resized).jpegQuoted from zaphX:First off, that's impressive! Wow! Well done.
I have to ask, not to diminish the win but to salve our own bruised egos over here...was that on stock settings? Inlane posts on the right moved? Cheater post on left installed?
Stock 3 ball game - Cheater post add to “hardest” spot - right inlane moved 1/2 way.
Quoted from JohnJ1366:Stock 3 ball game - Cheater post add to “hardest” spot - right inlane moved 1/
Stock 3 ball game - Cheater post add to “hardest” spot - right inlane moved 1/2 way.
I basically play to enjoy so I’ll set the games up that make for most enjoyment and challenge for me.
I have GNR set up with all factory settings but it’s a 5 ball game. Games just weren’t lasting that long.
WOZ is set up on easiest settings, 5 balls and I moved the posts. With it set up like that I have only beat the witch once and never even come close to somewhere over the rainbow.
All of that said I think my son just had one of those games, cause he played a bunch of games after that one and never cracked 10 million or more than 2 golden tickets
Quoted from pcprogrammer:I look up at the screen and it messes me up. I have to stop doing that. I have around 5m for my high score.
It’s becoming my favorite game.
Having a few glitching issues. Have searched this forum and either these glitches are new (not likely) or I’m a nob and can’t find the post addressing them (most likely)
First one has happened 4x now. All the lights turn white and stay white (no flashing no color change) - the first time I played through and got a decent score and attribute that to no “blinking” lights. The last time it happened I went into menu / tests / LEDs / all - and when I cycled through the colors (white, red, green, blue) - all the lights stayed white.
Only way I have found to fix it is turn off and on the machine.
Second glitch - is gobstopper error - it’s happened a few times and the error message reads opto error. The the gobstopper hole cycles through and stops in out of position locations. I have gone into menu and moved it with no results. My fix has been to jiggle the wires under the gobstopper (they are the opto wires and the optos are clean / clear / not obstructed)- I have traced them back the board and see no issues. so no real idea of what’s causing the error or what I’m doing to actually “fix” it. Cause in my very limited technical experience “jiggling” wires isn’t really a fix.
Any thoughts or ideas I’m game. Besides putting on a chicken suit and dancing in the street. Tired that one once and doesn’t work.
Quoted from DaddyManD:Sorry to hear this and likely worth putting in a ticket with JJP either way. I have not experienced the first issues in 1 year of ownership so that doesn't sound normal. As for the Gobstopper, on the prior code I had an issue where if someone power cycled the game in anything but attract mode, when the game booted up the gobstopper would go to the wrong position, make a buzzing sound, and show an error on screen. I would manually correct it each time by going into the test menu and manually moving it back to the correct position using the +/- buttons. Sounds like this didn't work for you so may be a different issue...sorry! But with latest code update (I am on beta) I have not had the issue. Are you on latest code?
Quoted from zaphX:There is a black USB cable that plugs into the motherboard and into a main light board (with all the ethernet cables sprouting from it.) I would make sure it’s well seated on both ends as a start to troubleshooting.
I gave that a try hopefully that was it. I was 100% sure where the main light board connection was and was fiddling with the blue data cables. By you saying “black USB” made all the difference. Thanks
Quoted from zaphX:There is a black USB cable that plugs into the motherboard and into a main light board (with all the ethernet cables sprouting from it.) I would make sure it’s well seated on both ends as a start to troubleshooting.
Jiggled and reset the USB cables and it would fix itself for a game or two and go right back to all white lights.
Please excuse my tech jargon in advance. Took a closer look at what I’m guessing is the main light board under playfield (has one blue data cable, one black usb c cable and, one molex connector)
The USB was being pinched/pushed at an odd angle by that plastic doohickey that only had the USB and one more set of wires wire tied for cable managment. Loosened the plastic doohickey turned it outta way and crossing fingers that was the problem.
If that’s not it I’ll tape out and pull a ticket like: daddymand suggested
Glass is half full……at least the gobstopper thingy hasn’t acted up
61983F7A-2F49-46A4-A4EF-951DD94277B7 (resized).jpegHaving issues with my playfield lights all turning white during game play (started infrequently now I can’t get through a single game) and staying white. Only way to “fix” is to cycle the game off and back on. All cables are seated and tight. Code up to date. At this point my guess is a board is outta whack.
Question: sent JJP a ticket on Thursday. Anyone have general idea how long it takes them to get back to you ?
Quoted from JohnJ1366:Having issues with my playfield lights all turning white during game play (started infrequently now I can’t get through a single game) and staying white. Only way to “fix” is to cycle the game off and back on. All cables are seated and tight. Code up to date. At this point my guess is a board is outta whack.
Question: sent JJP a ticket on Thursday. Anyone have general idea how long it takes them to get back to you ?
Got a reply this morning. Think it’s awesome they answered on a Saturday. Just in case anyone has this trouble / problem with lights staying all white, this is what JJP sent:
From: Steve Zamonski
Sent: 1/8/2022
Subject: all the playfield lights are white and wont change colors
Hi John - if you would please, go into the backbox and pull the monitor forward and look at the wiring on the right side (looking at it from the front). The 5volts (red with black ground) dc comes out from the lower middle of the metal box that houses the power supply, sound board and motherboard and runs to the right side of the backbox above the I/O board. It also breaks off and feeds the I/O board right along the top edge. In that area you will see a couple of connectors with the red and black wires which eventually feeds down into the playfield harness and comes out, among other places, at the BAG board (the same board with the mini-usb connection that you said you checked). Concentrate on the backbox connections and look carefully to see if perhaps a black or red wire has pulled back within a connector - that is to say, if a wire with a pin crimped on it is falling backwards out of a connector just a bit even though the molex connector may be plugged in tightly. We have seen several cases of this, and it would cause the lights to freeze as you are seeing. Thanks
I would like to add the instructions are a little off at least for my machine but it was a molex connector that had a loose internal wire. I wouldn’t have though to check the power supply but I did it in reverse and followed the power from the bag board backwards. It was the first molex I came to that had the loose wires.
Hope it helps if anyone else has this issue
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Now is the time we really start missing LTG.
Quoted from jackd104:What’s considered the hardest spot? I suppose it would be the lower of the two spots?
Quoted from seenev:Which connectors? This is my first JJP so I'm not sure if I should open that panel in the back box.
I did cause of the issue I was having with the lights (see my post 1/2 a page up)….anyhooo it’s simple. Pull monitor outta way - it’s 4 screws to remove the metal cover - it covers the motherboard (on right) / soundboard (middle) and power supply (on left). On the left are the wires coming off the LED strip on that metal cover. Be sure to unplug the molex connector
Once it’s open you will see the sound board - it is going to have a red/black wire connected to the sound board from the power supply (as you are looking at it it will be the far left one) - the two next to it feed the speakers (you can see/ follow them up) - and there is on more connector into the soundboard from the mother board
Make sure all of those and connected securely and hopefully that will solve your problem
Good luck
Quoted from Mjesposi:I just went back down there and checked and no plug behind there either. The only thing behind there was the wire for the LED that light up the translite. I took the cover off the PC metal to make sure it was not hiding out behind there either. This is driving me nuts as I usually do not have an issue with this sort of stuff but I literally cannot find anywhere this would connect????
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