(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 13,970 posts
  • 676 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 45 minutes ago by Rager170
  • Topic is favorited by 257 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 132 votes
    24%
  • Limited Edition 289 votes
    53%
  • Collectors Edition 123 votes
    23%

(544 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #149 Deep Dive on features and all that is wonka Posted by pin2d (5 years ago)

Post #150 SDTM video on Wonka - interview with Pat Lawlor and Joe Katz Posted by ZMeny (5 years ago)

Post #160 SDTM gameplay video Posted by ZMeny (5 years ago)

Post #188 Rules Flowchart Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #248 Features Matrix - CE, LE, SE Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #554 Early Stream of a home owner who received their game Posted by Habermania (4 years ago)

Post #785 Gobstopper subway VUK not ejecting ball fix Posted by Lermods (4 years ago)

Post #793 Gobstopper subway VUK fix pics for reference Posted by Lermods (4 years ago)

Post #1130 Latest code changelog Posted by LTG (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jamwin.
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#7522 3 years ago

see pic, Anyone know the best way to remove the black cap that comes in the screw post hole? I don't want to pry it up out of fear that I could dig into the clear coat and attempted to push it up from the underside of PF. I am noticing it manipulates the ball slightly. Additionally, would like to get your thoughts on having the post inserted in between the left side, right in line and outlane(empty spot in the pic). I inserted it and tried it but had a slow rolling ball get stuck between it and the rollover wire. Very strange. Does the black cap need to be inserted? I bought mine NIB and it came just like you see in the pic so one hole had the black cap and the other didn't so I am assuming it isn't a necessity. I'd prefer to not have them inserted because they aren't flat.

Also, any idea how to increase the shaker intensity? I can barely feel it, in fact didn't think there was one. There isn't an adjustment knob on the shaker and couldn't find an adjustment in the settings but could have overlooked it.

Thanks in advance all.

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#7525 3 years ago

Thanks! Very helpful. I didn't want to start banging away at that cap until I got insights so thank you! Just got my CE last week so still digging into the forums and with 151 pages, there's a lot of info so appreciate you directing me to your post. Game is a slow going but man, once things get lit up it's super fun and the light show is great. I'm sure I will be back on here soon with more questions, lol.

#7528 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Open the coin door and enter in to the game service menus.
Press the black button to start the process.
[quoted image]
Follow the legend on the screen to navigate the menu and selections.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

got it, thanks man!

1 month later
#8350 3 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

Anyone updated from 1.34 to 1.37 via wifi? It downloaded ok, and now it’s been stuck on this page for an hour...
[quoted image]

According to JJP tech support, you can do the WIFI update from v1.34 to 1.37. Once you update to 1.37, the update will work via wifi. To get to 1.37 from v.1.34 you have to do it via USB. I have been trying to update it via the delta1.34 to 1.37 USB and keep getting "fail to update". Spent some time yesterday communicating with JJP tech support, which was prompt and helpful, but ultimately going to have to do a full update to get to 1.37. Didn't have time to do it yesterday so will do it this weekend. Hope this helps.

#8351 3 years ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

According to JJP tech support, you can do the WIFI update from v1.34 to 1.37. Once you update to 1.37, the update will work via wifi. To get to 1.37 from v.1.34 you have to do it via USB. I have been trying to update it via the delta1.34 to 1.37 USB and keep getting "fail to update". Spent some time yesterday communicating with JJP tech support, which was prompt and helpful, but ultimately going to have to do a full update to get to 1.37. Didn't have time to do it yesterday so will do it this weekend. Hope this helps.

Forgot to add, I had the same issue when trying to do it via wifi and was stuck on the screenshot you provided for over an hour and didn't do anything, which prompted me to reach out to JJP Tech support.

#8358 3 years ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

According to JJP tech support, you can do the WIFI update from v1.34 to 1.37. Once you update to 1.37, the update will work via wifi. To get to 1.37 from v.1.34 you have to do it via USB. I have been trying to update it via the delta1.34 to 1.37 USB and keep getting "fail to update". Spent some time yesterday communicating with JJP tech support, which was prompt and helpful, but ultimately going to have to do a full update to get to 1.37. Didn't have time to do it yesterday so will do it this weekend. Hope this helps.

Gerrrr, meant to say “cannot do the delta update from v1.34 to v1.37 via wifi

#8368 3 years ago

can anyone point to instructions on how to use Rufus for new version updates? I am not totally technologically inept but can't seem to get the new v1.37 on to so USB stick and the instructions on JJP site are for Unetbootin. Super frustrated that this is so challenging especially since I haven't had issues in the past. Thanks in advance.

#8369 3 years ago

to choose the file, do i click the disk icon on top right or the boot selection line where it says "select"? i'm totally confused here.

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#8370 3 years ago

JJP tech support said that their software engineers said you have to use Rufus for a full install otherwise I would use Unetbootin and just follow the directions.

#8388 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Not to confuse the matter worse, but I always use Win32 Disk imager for this stuff. Just my preference..

Thanks, I've used Win32 as well but JJP Tech support was specific about using Rufus for this update yet they don't provide any instruction on how to use Rufus, unlike Unetbootin and the update still isn't loading properly. Beyond frustrating.

#8395 3 years ago
Quoted from dsmoke1986:

I can't get new code to update to 1.37.
What is the deal here JJP?
It's starting to piss me off...Shouldn't be that hard to upload the correct code to their site.

I’ve been trying all week to get from 1.34 to 1.37 to no avail. Been on with tech support and still nada. Tried full uploads, delta uploads, this upload, that upload. Tried wifi too. It’s a bad look on JJP that they can’t guide me through how to upload their software or that they say you have to use Rufus but don’t have directions on how to us Rufus. I’ve tried using Rufus and still doesn’t work. When y’all figure it out please let me know.

#8398 3 years ago

So, after using 4 different brand USB sticks, the fourth one worked with for the Delta update like a breeze. Used memorex brand and it worked. Don't have a clue how after formatting a USB stick and starting fresh, the brand makes a difference but in this case it did. Hope this helps.

#8406 3 years ago
Quoted from Ocelot:

I got this mod for Xmas and really enjoy it. https://pinballmods.co/willy-wonka-pinball-jjp/wonkavision-stage-captive-ball-protector
It protects the Oompa Loompa as well as keeps balls from getting trapped above the captive ball (i.e. does what "piece no. 4" did.)

What does this mod do? Does it stop the captive ball from getting stuck in the top of the track once you hit it? I am having issues every once and awhile the ball is stuck in the farthest back left loop, under the wonkavator somewhere or could be near the top of the captive ball track. I can’t see where it is actually getting stuck because everything is covered. Shake/nudge and it dislodges. Thx in advance for insights.

#8416 3 years ago
Quoted from Ocelot:

We're talking about two different things. The mod I linked to stops (or cuts down on) hot shots from destroying the fragile camera Oompa Loompa. It also covers up the channel over the captive ball where, on occasion, a ball would jump up there and get stuck.
What you're talking about -- the ball getting stuck somewhere under the Wonkavator -- is different and is in no way helped by this mod. My guess is that there's something back there that shouldn't be -- a screw, a rubber cap, a nut, etc. I've found bits of stuff during playfield deep cleans that make me go "Ohhhhhhh... *That's* what's causing the ball to act weird." If you don't have one already, I'd pick up a telescoping magnet (I got mine at an AutoZone) which pays for itself the first time you extract a wayward nut without having to take everything apart.

Thx man for the clarification and suggestion! Much love!

1 week later
#8558 2 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

This is good to know. I have ruined so many sets of side blades that ive essentially given up. I often dont have anyone to help me remove the playfield....
I have a set for Wonka that i want to put in, maybe ill give it a try doing the wet method...
For the Factory Mod by Mezel, were you able to get that installed with the tubing pieces and all, with having the side plastic piece staying in place as well? I couldnt figure out how to do it and never installed it.

Have the same mod installed and it was a bitch getting the red piping fit onto the wire form. Had to take the wire form off, use channel locks to squeeze the wire form so the gap was small enough to insert each red piece, only to reconnect everything and the ball got stuck as it tried to roll out of the factory. Disassembled, took a file to the red pipe that inserts into the factory to make the opening bigger and reassembled. Now it works and everything fits nicely but was definitely one of the most challenging mods I have installed. Was afraid of bending the wire form too much and screwing it up.

#8559 2 years ago
Quoted from Vitty:

I’ve tried a few different sticks all 8GB now for both full upgrade and delta upgrade. Delta upgrade always said upgrade failed. Full upgrade never starts as though it doesn’t see my USB in at boot. I can save/load game settings to the USB though.
I did try upgrading from 1.34 to 1.37 via WiFi and it just stalled out forever. Saw on here after the fact that WiFi upgrades won’t work on 1.34. Maybe that mucked something up.
I’ve upgraded lots of JJP games so I’m familiar with the process. I’ll try a different USB port next.

Took me 4 different USB sticks to get it to work.

#8575 2 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Wow, maybe ill just leave this off and/or sell it down the road..

Naw man, it's a cool mod and worth installing. A lot of these mods are 3D printed so there's likely different variances from batch to batch, which is probably why mine didn't fit without manipulating it and squeezing the wire forms. You'll know pretty quickly how snug the tunnel sections are on the wife form, which will determine how hard it is to install. Worth a try cuz it's a nice mod.

#8589 2 years ago

I had the -04 plastic piece make an appearance in the middle of my PF today. To clarify, does this actually need to be replaced? And if so, since mine is still under warranty, JJP should replace I would think.

Is the -04 piece the one that sits on top of the captive ball channel?

TIA.

1 week later
#8698 2 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Flippers +2 is definitely better. Tried it out tonight.

Thanks for sharing this. Since you posted, I have been paying more attention during MB and agree, feel like flippers lose power. Question, is there any downside to going +2 on the flippers? Is it harder on flipper coils or anything like that? Just curious what the benefit/risk is before I adjust. When it comes to tinkering with things, I am limited so want to minimize any future fixes.

Btw, thanks for your WW videos, taught me how to play much quicker.

#8701 2 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I don’t think there is risk turning them up. Even if the coils went bad (got too hot), I think they can be replaced for $20 each. It would not be something I’d worry about, no chance of causing damage unless a fire starts! Now outside of multiball, i could notice the extra power, bricked my saucer shot a few times but you get used to it quickly.

Awesome thanks for the insight.

Also, want to make sure to thank zaphX , I meant to cite his original recommendation of +2 but it didn’t grab his post thread so want to give him a shout out as well for the recommendation and gameplay videos. Hobbyist’s sharing and helping in meaningful ways is what make this a great hobby so thanks to both of y’all.

3 weeks later
#8838 2 years ago

Do you have to be running 1.38 in order to do the wifi beta switch? I am running 1.37, updating via wifi the b4 code and gets all the way through progress complete and then says "cannot verify...". Any thoughts? thanks in advance.

#8852 2 years ago
Quoted from birdman665:

I'm pretty sure you don't need to be on 1.38 to switch over to beta. I had the same issue with the error message after download, probably tried it at least 6-8 times before it worked (which was painful given how long my download was taking).
Keep trying and eventually it will work, it's worth it!

Thx man. You’re absolutely correct, it took 6-8 times and then finally worked. Fortunately for me, it loads pretty quick. Not sure if it’s because my machine is close to my wifi mesh puck.

The updates are pretty cool. Love how you start Gobstopper MB with two Gobstoppers already placed. Makes it more attainable for sure. I love the new music too, seems to have more variety and less redundant sounds.

Has anyone lowered the auto-plunge power so that it doesn’t shoot balls into the devious bumpers? I am playing with the bumper power to see if lowering it limits the amount of drains from the bumpers. I love that the game is challenging but damn, those bumpers can be ball killers.

1 week later
#8949 2 years ago

anyone having issues with their captive ball getting stuck in the back of the channel because the plastic is hanging low? wondering if there is a way to increase the height of the plastic so it doesn't catch the ball? TIA.

IMG_4180 (resized).jpgIMG_4180 (resized).jpg
#8984 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Remove the screw and post holding it down. Put a washer or two under it. Then fasten it back down.
LTG : )

Brilliant idea. Thanks LTG. Although, I'm not looking forward to getting up under that screw if there is nut on the bottom side holding it in place. But point taken and seems like a good fix.

1 week later
#9005 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Remove the screw and post holding it down. Put a washer or two under it. Then fasten it back down.
LTG : )

After looking at the ramp set up, I don't see how to elevate it with a washer. I would have to elevate the entire ramp and it's anchored into the playfield with very small screws at the ramp entrance plate and i'm not jacking with that.

rrosenhouse , i agree, i think the only way to elevate it is to wedge something in between the plastic piece and the back of the channel, which is unfortunate but I don't see how else to do it. I am going to try a piece of rigid foam or something that expands a little so that it holds in place. Either way, have to fix it because it really impacts play when the ball is stuck and your trying to hit the captive ball to score or advance something.

#9012 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Heat it up and bend up a little.
Be sure your balls are the right size. Not likely but bigger ones could be in there somehow. I bought some at a show once and low and behold a bigger one was in there.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, another good idea. I wedged a piece of fairly rigid foam, cut to shape of a wedge, and lifted the plastic just enough and it seems to be working great. It's nice to actually use the captive ball now lol. Always appreciate the insights and suggestions though.

1 month later
#9316 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Honestly the strategies remain mostly the same. Some of the penalties (like losing your collected kids if you drain, kid super blocking other kid jackpots etc) have been adjusted out.
Even so, I've been thinking about redoing the tutorial for 2.0...also correct the audio glitches, try and watch my cursing so it's kid-friendly, etc.

Great to see zaphX back!

Would love to understand the best way to play "collect bonus". What's the strategy to get most points? Thanks in advance.

#9320 2 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The best way to do this:
- Don't collect bonus unless you have 200 bars or more
- Don't collect bonus until a superX is also available on the saucer shot
- Don't collect bonus until you've banged the gobstopper to increase BonusX
When executed optimally you can have multiple million points off this single shot. Imagine 300+ bars with 5X super AND 8X bonus multipliers!
How to avoid collecting it? When you see it qualified and you're not ready, hit the captive ball to toggle a different orange saucer option.

Awesome, thanks man!

3 weeks later
#9434 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Is everyone else getting over 50% SDTM out of the pop bumpers ? Is there an adjustment to combat this?

Absolutely maddening when this happens and yes, happens at least 50% of the time for me too. Probably the only bad thing about the game IMO.

Also, noticing more magnet-play with the 2.0 code, maybe my imagination but I am having my fair share of balls heading towards a flipper and take a 45-90 degree turn SDTM. Still love the pin but man it can be frustrating.

I feel better now, thank you all for listening.

6 months later
#11175 2 years ago

Parting ways with my WW. I want to wipe the scores and mugshots on the machine but leave the total plays untouched. Can someone let me know how to wipe the scores and mugshots but not reset the number of plays? Thanks in advance.

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