Can anyone report back on any issues they've had with the LE re-run? I'm just digging into Wonka for the first time and I know JJP and Stern had playfield issues for a couple of years. Can I safely assume those issues are ironed out?

And speaking of issues, looking at the key posts it seems there are only two or so issues that are common out of the box. Is this really true? I'm used to seeing a laundry list to address. Rick and Morty's list will make your head spin...

I saw those two reports in the last 24hrs. I actually read the last few pages looking for info. I was looking for maybe a -little- more insight! Thanks.

I hear what you're saying. I think most mods for pinball are a bad value. Having said that, Pinstadiums are one of the few things that are worth it to me. I know you didn't want to hear that, so I'll just end with this: If you haven't seen them live, you owe it to yourself to do that and then decide. If you have seen them, great, you know how much they're worth to you.

Alright, I've played about 30 games on my new LE (my first JJP!), and I have some questions for you all before I contact JJP.
-My machine moves a lot, I think due to the felt leg protectors causing extra space. I get a lot of tilts because of this. Are people just tightening the leg bolts a lot more, or what? I'm getting tilt warnings on every game, and rarely tilt on my other pins. I don't want to overtighten the bolts either.
-During a few features the machine buzzes a lot, especially at the beginning of the Elevator feature. I'm curious what mechanism is causing this. Is it a shaker, or something else in the machine? It feels pretty cool, but a little disconcerting as I'd swear something was wrong if it weren't so controlled.
-My kickback isn't syncing well with the ball, and only works half the time (and rarely correctly). I figured the machine might learn over time, but it has not improved. Should I start tinkering with the "do not tinker" coil settings section?
-I get balls stuck on the innermost left inlane between the rubbers. I can't think of any adjustment to make, and the rubbers haven't broken in enough to let a slow ball go through. If I give it a good shake it'll come loose, but clearly it's not right.
-Check your balls! One of my was badly rusted out of the box. Thankfully I noticed quickly.

This is an interesting pin. At first it was almost overwhelming because it's not super clear what to do. Most every other pin I've owned I could quickly figure out the gist of it. This one will take some time!

Audible at first (and maybe almost buzzy feeling), then you can feel it. I assume it's the shaker, but it doesn't feel anything like any shaker I've ever experienced in any machine. I'm just curious if JJP has some sort of other special mechanism under there.

No extra posts. Just the stock rubbers pinching (see post). I've had this happen before on another pin but it quickly "broke in" and was free. And it's not catching on the rollover.

Rollover looks perfect, just triggering erratically. I'll try changing the settings. Just wanted to know if anyone else had that issue.

Metal leg protectors sound horrible! I'm sure they work great, but metal -seems- like the last thing I'd want in there. And very opposite of the felt set it came with. But again, I'm sure they'd be fine.

IMG_20220105_122834364 (resized).jpg

Changing the delay in the coil settings did not work. Taking the apron off and correcting the cockeyed coil did. Hard to see in action, but pretty obvious like this!

As for the ball sticking in the inlane, I stretched the sling rubber out and that seems to have done the trick.

IMG_20220105_201310247 (resized).jpg

Update on the ball getting stuck on the left inlane: Per JJP the factory rubber that's on the post shouldn't be there for just this reason. Someone at the factory got overzealous with the rubber installation.

Left Inlane Post (resized).jpg

I don't think you understand the problem. The left OUTlane post has nothing to do with it and is not installed. There -is- a post, permanently installed, between the INlanes, that per JJP: "That post to the left" (of the stuck ball) "is not supposed to have a rubber on it. It was deleted by engineering for that reason. Please take it off and thank you for bringing this to my attention, I will alert production."

TLDR: Per Jersey Jack the left inlane post should not have a rubber.

If someone tells me they don't think I understand the problem, I try to see if they're right and not get defensive. So for a final time, let's try to clear things up:
-The picture with the stuck ball and no hand drawn line is my machine. No outlane post. Stuck ball.
-The picture with no ball and the hand drawn line is from JJP. My machine shipped with the inlane rubber. JJP says it shouldn't have.

Shipping with an inlane rubber in place WAS an issue from the factory, and it is not "properly installed" as it should not have been installed at all per JJP.

This is incorrect, per JJP. My original problem illustrates that.

TL:DR

If there's anything I've stated above that you think is factually wrong, just let me know the exact quote so I can either correct myself or clarify. I have no interest in telling people they're wrong, but I do have a strong interest in making sure the right information is out there for anyone else who has this issue. One of the things I like about this Wonka thread is I've seen practically no sarcasm or snarkiness so far. I'd like to keep it that way.

IMG_20220105_122834364 (resized).jpg

Left Inlane Post (resized).jpg

Mine had the bottom plastic cap installed, and the other was in the bag with the post. I installed the second cap so both holes are plugged, but now the ball occasionally hits the top post cap and it changes the trajectory of the ball. I hate to think it might accelerate any playfield wear if the hole isn't plugged, but I also hate the idea of the ball occasionally bumping off the plastic cap. I'm not sure where you can buy them standalone. If I knew it wasn't going to harm the playfield I'd take the top cap back off.

I was shocked to see this a week or so ago. It's not an unreasonable price today for an new SE!
https://www.coinoppartsetc.com/product/games-pinball-machines-pinball-machines-new/jjp-willy-wonka-the-chocolate-factory-standard-0

Oh, LTG, you are DEFINITELY wanted by 99.99% of the people you interact with. Just try to forget that .01%, even if they sting the most!

Yes, it was originally designed to have that rubber. Then JJP realized it was causing issues (on some pins) so they stopped installing them at the factory. If yours works, great. But per a recent conversation with JJP they're not installing that rubber anymore. Heck, if your works you can consider it your own special "Factory Mod"

Well...(scratches head)...last I knew you were let go from your job with JJP. In reference to that you said above "I wasn't wanted.". All I was doing was giving you reassurance that while maybe someone "over there" doesn't want you, the rest of us all do.

So, you're 99.99% beloved. Does that sound about right?

(To be clear, the rubber that JJP says shouldn't be there is the little rubber between the inlanes.) As for the post between the left outlane and inlane, you can put it in either hole. The top position gives the ball less space to drain and therefore makes it a bit easier than the bottom position (or no post at all). But it's personal preference. I like my games harder, but I'm very tempted to put the post in the bottom hole (it's absent now) as I find it near impossible to nudge the ball out of that area once it's there.

Go into the coil test and roll the ball around on the playfield. If memory serves me right they even show you on the screen in the test where the magnets are. The underplayfield magnets are small, so it's not like Kid Multiball or anything.

Remove the rubber. JJP says it shouldn't be there, but some are still shipping with it.

It's hard to consider it critical to gameplay when you have to stop and shake the machine to free the ball. I'd LOVE it if the rubber functioned correctly and wasn't a problem. But when JJP says "That post to the left" (the inlane post in question) "is not supposed to have a rubber on it. It was deleted by engineering for that reason." and it's getting hung up on multiple machines (including mine, see several recent posts), I'd agree with JJP and remove it. But if yours is working great, fantastic. In fact, I kinda want the cheater post in too because of the increased ability to nudge with it.

(duplicate created when trying to fix typo)

I have no experience with post caps. I assume they come in one size and look like this? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-6543

It is mildly irritating that JJP doesn't do something like this vs just removing the rubber.

Any advice on getting the black plug filling in the cheater post hole back out of the playfield? I've tried pushing firmly from below with a screwdriver while prying on top with plastic putty knife. It's not budging. I KNEW the moment I snapped it in place it was premature installing it. And I'm very hesitant to use a metal tool to grab it from above when it's so close to the playfield.

Normally, yes. Mine? No.

Update: My black plastic plug is out, and the post is in. After several contacts with JJP we decided I needed to gently drill it out from below. I was not thrilled, and it was nerve racking, but it worked out in the end. My problem was nothing was working. I tried pressing, jiggling, and hammering the little plastic plug from below using multiple small objects but it wouldn't budge more than a hair. It appears the plastic got caught up in the metal threads and just decided to hang on for dear life.

On a side note so far JJP has been very good for customer service. I've dealt with Stern and CGC, and have really had nothing but great experiences with all of them other than some communication hiccups.

Two questions: Is there a setting available to do a handsfree plunge? My wife is disabled and can't pull back the plunger. This is the first modern machine that I'm not seeing an option to activate via flippers. Also, I tried setting up the bluetooth last night but it said the BT dongle wasn't found. I assume the machine doesn't come with it? I would have assumed this to begin with, but when I ordered and went to install the wifi adapter...it already had one! (I have a LE re-run).

Perfect, thanks. I've reviewed the entire manual twice and couldn't find it. I even recently changed a setting right above the one you mentioned!

I wonder if they feel weak because the magnets are possibly slowing the balls down? You're screaming "Why can't I make that ramp?" while the magnets gleefully snicker down below...

I'm curious: What do you all think of the Willie Wonka movie? I generally don't care much about the themes for my pins (I have zero interest in soccer but love my World Cup Soccer), but I know the Wonka theme definitely pulls me in. It's like playing a giant adult Fisher Price toy on steroids.

Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory is a Top 3 movie for me. You?

(and if you have to ask which Wonka movie I'm referring to, we can't be friends)

Ok, I know this sounds like sickness, but I'd consider widening the door. I know it's not cheap or easy, but unless this is your last pin (HAHAHA!!!) you're risking scraping/damaging a pin every time you're squeezing it in there.

Yeah, I'm going to watch it trying to forget the original movie. The Wonka remake with Johnny Depp wasn't a bad movie, if you blanked out your memories of the original. It's hard to build off a fantastic movie with a cult following 50 years later.

I have a November 2021 build with no playfield issues. I see there are washers in place from the factory, so I assume that helps.

I hear you. I had a BK SOR and I didn't see the pooling and chipping until I was taking pics for the buyer. I was pissed! Not only did the person I bought it from not mention it (we swapped at a midway point and I didn't see the playfield personally), but I told -my- buyer the playfield had no issues. When he pointed out something didn't look right in the pics, I took a ton more pics to show him the newfound damage. We worked on a new price, and away it went. I would have been mortified if he travelled six hours one way to find the pin had playfield damage!

I'd be curious if anyone has removed a washer and found pooling underneath. I'd guess those washers get put on and -prevent- the pooling. But I guess we won't know unless someone pulls theirs off and finds pooling. smalltownguy2 I nominate you to get back to us licketysplit with the results!

I'm finding the sound to be fine compared to a Stern but a little underwhelming when compared to Dialed In. No bass, and while not "tinny" it doesn't sound very full either. To have a premium sound system and not have it sound premium is a little disappointing.

Holy rubbers! 600 games in, and they're starting to shred. I've never seen rubbers wear out nearly this fast!

I emailed JJP recently about the LEDs leading from the top right flipper to the camera not all lighting at the start. Perhaps a board problem? They had to check with the programmers, and THEY said they're supposed to do that as they indicate the progress of that ramp. Like you said, it would be nice to have a guide to a $9-14k product that explained what did what. Instead JJP supplies a one page infographic! Even the multiball add-a-ball isn't accurately documented anywhere. "Hitting the Wonka Tower" works...sometimes. When? Well, we can't give away ALL the secrets...

That's just it. I haven't seen this info in any walkthrough, let alone anything from JJP. AFAIK should be "this is how it is", but we're generally not being told that. Of course, I might have figured out the green requirement faster if I wasn't color blind!

I find it's sad that there are developers that put in the effort to program something like "Hitting the Wonka tower gives you an add-a-ball, but only if it's green" and then that info is never conveyed to the end user. My wife guessed that it's intentional so the players can have the adventure of figuring it out as they go, but I'd also like the option of a complete walkthrough. Maybe I'm making something out of nothing. Even my car manual says "Hold this button down, and this special thing happens"...even though no one (but me) reads it.

Mine never went SDTM from the pops until after a few hundred games. It's interesting how the game changed after it broke in. The upper left flipper shot changed, the pops changed, a lot of small things "fell into place" it seems. Not big changes, but noticeable differences.

I find it takes a picture right as you press the Start button, and uses that photo -if- it's good. If it's not, it relies on the previous picture. Try ducking right before you push Start and you'll see it'll ignore that picture.

Take note of the premium differences! It sounds cheesy, but it's true. I've had NIB Sterns and a CGC and none had such attention to details as my NIB Wonka. Even the packing was better. Of course, as my wife reminded me yesterday: "For the price of a good car, it should be"

They offer NIB pins that you're not going to find anywhere else. You can call it price gouging if you want, but they're giving you an option. You can either take it or leave it, but it's something you didn't have before: an option.

If you'd just made this post a week ago I would have invited you over to play mine! It's a very different game from TMNT. In fact, it's what helped me decide it's time to move on from TMNT. Very fun game, waaay deeper than Turtles, and not nearly as frustrating/brutal.

Apparently my Wonka has a screw manufacturing plant under the glass. I've found a total of four screws rolling down the playfield. I found where two go (plastic camera mount) but I cannot see where the other two came from. Are there any "hot spots" where screws are known to come out? I've never had this many screws fall out after only a few hundred plays. I know eventually I'll see the holes, but I'm reluctant to play it with two screws missing.

I'll be the one to ask: What does "enter candy code 102307" mean? And it's awesome that you were a beta tester, I think I could do that sort of thing well. I think.

It's funny you say that, as my Wonkavator keeps releasing the ball once or twice immediately after locking it. When did that start? The moment the last screw appeared. I finally connected the dots last night but haven't had a chance to look back there yet.

Awesome, thanks! It's funny how someone commented that it was maybe paying homage to Mortal Kombat. The fonts are very similar (just look at the letter "a"). And the fact they're Candy (K)odes! I immediately saw the resemblance. Now I need to go code combing...

I think this is what you meant, but to be clear: you can have both posts but not both rubbers unless you cut and modify the inlane rubber.

I had three balls (if I remember right) stuck in there once. I gave it a few minutes, and it self cleared. It does a quick spin, and then later a more thorough spin to get them out.

I haven't played an Elwin layout that "clicked" with me, but every Borg and Steve Ritchie game clicks almost immediately. And while I love Pat Lawlor, his layouts take some time for me to get into. Getting Wonka was a leap for me, as I hated the game the first time I played it but realized the more I played the more I liked it.

No, it only clears when you power cycle the machine unless you change the settings.

Well, I love Wonka, love Pinstadiums, and know that pics don't always come out right, so....I really don't like how that looks! I'm hoping it's just not photographing well. The biggest reason I haven't added Pinstadiums to Wonka is that I'm afraid it'll wash out the playfield if I do anything other than a dim white setting. And I don't want to spend $300 to just add dim white light. I look forward to the video, perhaps with them on and off for an A/B comparison?

For anyone having Wonkavator issues: All four screws holding the coil that retracts the large white release pin were loose/missing. I don't know why that would make it release balls at the wrong time, but after re-securing the coil it's working 100%. Sometimes to diagnose problems you gotta just put your hands on things and try wiggling them!

I'm sure you can incorporate that into a playfield mod. Because that's what's cool now!

It would be strange to have 3 led bulbs defective. It could be wiring, or a board, or they're just not seated properly. Either way I'd do some quick troubleshooting and contact JJP. On principle I struggle with fixing out of pocket a NIB $11k pin myself. The fact that Green Machine had the same issue makes me think it's not the LED themselves.

Anyone have any issues with leaving the black plastic cheater post plugs out and leaving the hole exposed? While I hate seeing the ball hit the plastic and change trajectory, I also don't want an exposed hole on the playfield especially if it could cause a problem. Which I don't think it would, because I don't think the ball would ever touch the actual hole.

I should have been more specific. I have the post installed on the bottom post hole, and am considering leaving the TOP hole open. If they were both open I can imagine the ball having enough clearance around it to get stuck in the top hole. But I can't imagine having just the top hole exposed would cause a stuck ball in any way, as the ball should (just barely) clear the top hole when it's touching that post. Last time it was a bear removing that plug, so before I do it I'd like to be more sure.

Because the ball -does- hit the black plug. Which seems like a design flaw of sorts. Putting unintended obstacles in the ball's path seems like a bad idea.

I think that's the title of the the Dialed In Owner's Forum.

Ha, I was thinking the same thing! When someone just starts dipping their toes into a hobby with a $10k(!) purchase it's very telling where the economy is right now - HOT. But as you also said, the more the merrier so welcome everyone!

A quick note on this: When I first got my Wonka I never had this problem. Then it started creeping in. My solution? I just rotated the rubber just to the lower left of the pops. That's it. Now it's SDTM maybe 5% of the time. The rubber started to wear a tiny bit which made just enough of a difference to change the ball exit path. As a machine breaks in it's amazing how many paths/shots like this change.

For anyone who has the black plastic plug in the top cheater hole - try removing it. I can't believe how much it was forcing the ball into the outlane with it in. In hindsight it was like a magnet was pulling the balls to the left and out. Now they move naturally.

I -think- I understand your issue. The pin takes your pic earlier in the game as a backup, and if it doesn't get a clear shot when you hit END it'll use that previous pic. And, it uses the best face in the camera frame available, so if your friend is clearer and more "in frame", they may get the limelight. My wife uses a wheelchair and if I'm watching too close at picture time it'll show my face instead of hers. She's real impressed with that

Something I haven't seen mentioned here is the pop sensitivity adjustment. NIB mine were not very sensitive. I tightened up all the switch gaps a LOT and (predictably) it was then -too- sensitive. Backed them off a little, and now they're perfect. AND, it helped with the STDM problem.

What's worked for me was to adjust that rubber a little bit. Mine wore down a bit and slightly adjusted the exit path of the ball to drain a bit more often. I rotated that rubber to a "fresh facing" and it's better. Someone mentioned adding a second rubber, but I haven't tried that yet.

For giggles, can anyone tell me what this plug goes to? I figured the topper, but if it were for a topper I'd think the plug would be protruding from the cabinet not the head.

AND

Does anyone have any advice for quieting the backglass rattle? I tried a couple small pieces of electrical tape but it's still got slack. I could just keep adding, but there should be a cleaner way to fix it. Wonkavator Multiball drives it wild.

IMG_20220422_145857 (resized).jpg

Duh. Thanks. I never thought of that, probably because I've never touched weatherstripping. One more tool for the pinball toolbox...

I feel like that shot keeps changing on me. Sometimes I have to take the shot early, sometimes late. When I turn on the machine each day it feels a bit different, which makes minimal sense. Also, if you just got it try taking the shot "too early" and "too late". Initially I had to hit the flipper at the absolute earliest moment to make it cleanly.

I cracked up when I read this. It's taken me years to get out of the "overprepping" habit. Personally, I buy only three years worth of parts instead of twelve

Is it at the correct height? It seems weird to have it beat up/chipped this early. Care to share a pic for us to scrutinize and share unsolicited feedback? Because that's the best kind of feedback, right?

"Hey look, I got a multiball! Wait, I'm not even done with this multiball and I got another multiball! HOLY CRAP, ANOTHER MULTIBALL! ALL AT ONCE! HAHA I'M SO HAPPY RIGHT NOW!!!"

I don't know if this will give you lots of points, but it sure is fun. Especially during Wonkatania Mania.

I think that's the genius of design - make it eventually discoverable by accident. Not up-up-down-down-left-right-left-right-b-a-start

So the last hundred games or so I'm finding that the ball rarely locks after going into the left Wonkavision loop to start the Oompa Loompa feature. It locks fine for the Wonkavator. I ran the gate test and watched the gate over and over, everything looks tight and it seems to be opening and closing fully. Any suggestions?

ps - I love the fact that "Oompa" and "Loompa" aren't trying to autocorrect as I type them, haha.

If you actually hit the shots, there are points to be had!

You're overthinking this. Slot machines have quarter slots. Pinball machines have quarter slots. Just plug the wiring harness into the quarter slot wiring harness. Seems easy to me.

Kidding aside, that's going to be a BRIGHT topper. Think of how bright the lights are in a casino. I'd be interested in seeing seeing it set up for the first time!

For anyone who read Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and are interested in reading the sequel Charlie and the Great Glass Elevator, I just finished it and will save you some time: Don't. Or, at least don't eagerly await the followup pin!

Was anyone else as disappointed with it as I was?

I never tire of the music, but I also think it's truly magical so I may be an outlier. And I don't use the word "magical" very often or lightly.

Once you own a TMNT and hear that music for a few months...eventually even in your dreams...Wonka will be no problem.

"...teenage mutant ninja turtles...
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.
TEENAGE MUTANT NINJA TURTLES!
(seemingly screaming now) HEROES IN A HALFSHELL! TUUURRRTLE POOOWERRRRR!!!!"

Two points:
1) Is anyone else color blind and having a hard time identifying shots, especially during features? I'm red/green color blind, and if I'm not looking at the screens I have near zero chance of completing anything intentionally. In fact, today was the first day I got the Wonkavator Golden Ticket. And that was after 800 games!

2) (Tiny spoiler: I'm about to share how I felt about Pure Imagination and how long I played it for! But no other details) I got to Pure Imagination today for the first time and destroyed my high score. I have to say, I was a little disappointed. Maybe my expectations were too high, or maybe I couldn't pay attention to what was happening because I was so jacked up on the Wonkadrenaline but it ended waaaay too quickly. For a thirty minute game (my longest by far) it was over in maybe 60-90 seconds? Either way, now I have to go back and re-achieve it and try to pay more attention...and last longer!

(after seeing more "magnet action" and the drains that follow "F#@K THIS $H!T!!!"

Is the ball not rolling high enough to hit the switch, or not hitting the switch hard enough? I adjusted that switch to hair trigger - if the ball rolls up and just gently kisses it, it'll register.

I'm 800 games in and I average around 5m a game. A bad game is under 1m. But in the end, it doesn't matter, because you can have a blast playing this game and end with..."who cares" number of points!

I'd put your hands on one before you buy it if possible. I tried one at Pintastic this weekend and HATED it. It was too small for me. I've played another one elsewhere which was 3x bigger and much better. But your preferences may vary.

What worked for me was to hit the ball at the absolute earliest moment you think you could. It might not be intuitive at first, but do it. Then adjust from there. Now I make it 95% of the time.

I especially like the magnet that tugs the ball just a little bit at that moment. It really messes with your sense of what the ball's motion should be.

(I just realized there may be no magnet there and that it's all in my head. If so, don't ruin the illusion for me )

Is it me, or does all that extra lighting negate the anti-glare glass quite a bit? I understand the playfield lighting appears off, but that first pic is...uh, not my cup of tea.

To be specific: If it's FIRING occasionally, that's likely a switch issue. If it's always firing but not doing the job of saving the ball, that's likely a coil/timing issue. Like others have said, IF that's the case take the apron off and look. Mine was pretty crooked, but I couldn't tell when playing/testing with the apron on. If the ball is rolling over the switch and occasionally nothing happens, check/adjust your switch.

After 900 games, the only time I got that fifth ticket was when I reached Pure Imagination. Never before, and not since. Good luck!\

I've always felt Wonka's flippers were juuuuust strong enough to make the shots. I (and apparently everyone) feel like a lot of JJP games are like this. So just out of curiosity I bumped up the flipper power by two points.

Just two points.

Holy crap.

I'm not exaggerating when I say it feels like a different game. It shoots sooo much better. I'm kicking myself in the butt for not toying with it earlier. If you haven't already, I urge you to at least try it. Bravely move past the "Don't touch these coil settings or your machine will burst into flames" warning. It's like a Wonka Cheat Code. But with no cheating.

I have. I've played some pretty long games on most of my pins, and I've never experienced flipper fade. I always scratch my head when I hear about people experiencing this, like when someone says "I'm too full for ice cream". I just can't relate.

For all you Wonka owners here, I have to put a plug in for Deadpool.

waitwhat?

I've put about 1k games on my Wonka and love it, but there's always a LOT going on. If I'm not paying attention, it can be a fun casual game but there still always feels like there's a million goals, all at once. I picked up a DP recently and it's a refreshing change. It feels very old school in that "hit the flashing light" sort of way. I can't think of two modern pins that I love that are so different. So for what it's worth, if you're looking for some variety to compliment your Wonka, it's a great option.

Does anyone have any insight to the ball getting kicked back out when you shoot the Oompa Loompa feature? It's the left shot under the Wonkavision. The ball goes in, and more often than not slowly rolls back out again. The flag appears to be working properly in test mode, it's not dragging, moves freely by hand and I have videos and pics if it's helpful. JJP was intermittent and is now silent about what the problem is. Their tech support has been pretty good so far, but now I'm starting to see some "slippage".

JJP assured me they indicate progress in the game.

Yep, that's it. Good day sir.

No "pop bumper exit" save, just a timed ball save which might coincide with it. I agree it changes the intended randomness too much for me, but then again maybe I'd love it.

I'm finding this about most machines I play on location. I didn't much like Wonka, Deadpool, and several others until I got them home. I had a hunch I just needed to play them without being surrounded by the public. I think whatever you say is probably true.

Strike my last sentence.

"Add a zero on the end and I might be interested!" - Pinside community

It's often the only place to buy an older NIB. People crap on them for selling those at a higher price, but hey, if the values go down they're stuck holding the bag. And as far as I can see they're the only ones with NIB Wonkas. They're offering something no one else has! Which is worth a premium to many, including you.

Am I the only one who's surprised this isn't on the market yet as a start button?

Wonka button.jpg

"No, YOU'RE trash!!!"

Hahaha...

ps I use this: https://a.co/d/4B5of67

If you decide to put the post in the bottom hole and the black filler plastic cap into the top hole, be aware the plastic cap will change the ball movement a tiny bit. You wouldn't guess it by looking at it. That drove me nuts, and it was oddly difficult to get it back out. To answer your question, I put my post in the bottom hole. All my pins are set to "medium" in terms of post placement.

I had this exact same problem. I looked hard at it, took a few pieces apart to make sure it was all correct, and reassembled it.

Of course, it's worked since. Because the steps I took above seem to fix 80% of my oddball issues

I will add, check your optos in that trough. Several people here said they've had issues with those.

If you're talking about the black plastic plugs that have threads/fins on them: I took a drill bit (dull end up) that was slightly smaller than the hole and tapped it pretty firmly with a hammer from below the playfield. It was nerve racking. JJP said it shouldn't be that hard, but it was. Also keep in mind that plastic plug has a wedge shaped end, so if you put something like a phillips head screwdriver in there it won't make good contact.

One, single, tiny drop of oil on the two pivot points. Use can use a Q-Tip with a bit of oil on it to make sure it doesn't drop anywhere.

If it's getting hung up on something foreign, fix that, but if it's the friction being -just- enough to keep it like that on occasion, the oil will fix it. And give more Super Spinner Joy