Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (CE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (LE)
Jersey Jack, 2019
Willy Wonka & The Chocolate Factory (Standard)
Jersey Jack, 2019You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RobbyIRL5.
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Quoted from ZMeny:NEW SDTM!
Willy Wonka Pinball Machine Review (Jersey Jack Pinball, 2019)
Warning: Strong Adult Language
About the join the club with a CE, can’t wait to get it!! Played one and loved it, and now I’ve watched both versions of the movie. As an adult, they seem way darker than I remember!!
Got my CE today, this game is beautiful, and shoots really well! So impressive! Still honeymooning but definitely my favorite game right now.
Quoted from zaphX:You are going to fall deeply in love with this game. It's an ass kicker but keeps you coming back. JJP really has a way with this stuff.
To me (at least so far), it seems really fair. I don’t want to say easy, but coming off a couple Elwin designed games that I play a lot (JP2 and AIQ), the shots are all very makable. I will say, surprisingly for me what has caused the most drains is that stupid bouncy little target to the left of the right ramp! That right ramp should be the easiest on the playfield to hit 
anyway, love how this game plays and the theme integration is pretty tremendous.
Gobstopper lock mechanism - for some reason mine goes through stages of being too “stiff”, the ball cannot activate it. I reach under the glass and can activate the mechanism (activating the switch), but it just seems too hard for a pinball to be able to do it. I noticed on mine there are two springs connecting to the same endpoints. I’m thinking the simple solution is to remove one of the springs? My game is brand new, just took it out of the box, build date of Jan 2020, not sure if that matters. Any thoughts?
Weirdly, when I first got it (first 30 games), didn’t seem to be an issue and sometimes it’s not, it will lock with a graze up the left ramp. Wondering if the springs are twisted up or something.
Thanks for any thoughts. Up to just over 2M (not great but building). That wonkavator spinner shot is one of the more satisfying shots in pinball imho.
Quoted from mikepmcs:The problem is the switch hanging up on the actual mechanism. It's a common problem and covered here a bunch. I'll try to find a couple posts to help you out. Don't disconnect anything because there's no reason to and it won't solve the issue.
I made a 3d printed part that stops the little roller overshooting the switch. It's on here free a few pages back.
You can make that and it will solve the problem or adjust the switch arm so it doesn't roll over the top of the metal.
r/
Mike
EDIT:
Here's the thing I made that stops the overshoot.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/137#post-5996284
Various posts talking about it. I chose not to do anything to the factory switch physically or bend any metal etc.. I simply made the mod I posted above and it stopped the issue. I did originally put a piece of 3m tape in between the switch and housing to stiffen up the roller switch arm so it wouldn't be som springy. It worked until it didn't. That post is one of these below as well.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/130#post-5943390
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/118#post-5820631
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/118#post-5820814
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/118#post-5830715
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/119#post-5850716
r/
Mike
This is great, thanks so much for the direction. I got back on to post that I figured it out, it’s that switch, exactly, hangs it up.
A34E80A4-3B83-40AB-9742-9B1BFF80F39A (resized).jpegQuoted from Yelobird:Had the same issue with mine. Needed to re-bend the switch arm back to the straight position and all good so far.
I just bent the switch down a little and it’s great now. 
I’ve got 1.32CE code. Do I need to do the 1.33 delta update, it says it needs to go on over 1.31 or 1.32, but doesn’t say anything about 1.32CE. Just want to be cautious.
Did anybody install the extra post on the left out lane or slide the posts down on the right out lane? Does it make a big difference? The out lanes aren’t terrible so thinking I won’t but just wondering if it makes a huge difference.
Loving this game, might be my favorite. Can’t figure out why it’s not rated better.
Quoted from PinMonk:EDIT: ALL POSITIONS FILLED. I had a big response to the notice for JJP Tibetan Breeze kit testers and all machine testing slots are already filled. Thanks to all who were willing to jump in!
I just got on to post about what I thought was bad flipper fade after about 45-60 mins. Assuming this means I wasn’t imagining it! I’m in when you start making them!
Has everybody on here with a CE rated it? Last time I checked it still needed 6 or 7 ratings to be included in the top 100. This pin is amazing, almost missed it because it’s not rated up with the big dogs. So glad I didn’t.
Quoted from DavidCPA:If you have access to a 3d printer, I recommend this part created by a pinsider (Mikepmcs). Great file and just snaps into place. Here is the link on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675550
[quoted image]
I just printed this today and this may be more of a 3D printing tech support question, but thought I’d ask... Mine printed (looks great) on a flat layer of plastic (as a base) that is proving to be a pain in the butt to get off, and now that I have it off, I can’t get the printed piece to fit. Maybe it’s just a matter of shaving it back more (ran out of time between shuttling kids around to weekend youth sports), but will try more tonight unless there is an option to print without the base layer somewhere. I have the Ender 3 Pro, putting the file onto the MicroSd from the software it came with. Thanks!!
Quoted from mikepmcs:do you mean you printed it on a raft? any chance you could throw up a photo. it's my design so you have me curious.
it wasn't made with a base layer or any separate pieces. it's all one piece so I'm a little confused.
r/
Mike
I did print it on a raft, the first one (i learned that term and brim since I posted my first message!). And I carved up the underside enough to where it fits but really tight. Then printed it with “brim” and still too small to fit on. As I’m turning in, im printing it at 1.05X on X,Y and same size one Z. I’m new to it so I don’t mind printing the same thing a couple times. First two pics are the brim which came out fine (but still too small to fit on), last one (I’m holding) is the first one I printed on a raft (and then went at it with sharp objects!). How do you attach your 3D print to the piece on the gobstopper? Do you use any adhesive or tight enough to snap/stay on?
11504BC5-DC47-47BB-9C48-C42D46FE2E88 (resized).jpeg785D20C0-C8C9-48BA-AF3E-79F57C1CBD94 (resized).jpeg7BEABE11-9187-41BC-9DCB-93465E16998E (resized).jpeg
Quoted from mikepmcs:mine actually snapped on and hasn't moved. pure luck it worked out like that. I'm no designer. I had planned on using very thin double sided tape put around the underside and cut so it wouldn't be seen.
I suggest printing with supports(touching build plate only) so your underside overhang is smoother. the key to supports and rafts are the settings for ease of removal.
If you can get it to snap on there tight i'd prefer that over tape now that mine has been on there some time.
I use Cura slicer not what came with my ender 3 pro.
Cura is much easier to manipulate for me and very user friendly.
If you want to take this to PM with any questions I'll be happy to assist as much as possible to get the settings where they need to be.
I'm assuming you are using a .4 nozzle and .2 layer height. a smaller nozzle and maybe .12 or .10 layer height would get you better results with the lettering.
r/
Mike
I agree, thanks Mike. I'm learning to 3d print, and I think that has a lot to do with it. The brim is the better choice, as it snaps off really easily and the rest is clean. I'll take to PM once I get some results. As predicted the 5% bigger on the X,Y axis makes it just a hair too big, fits great, but will need tape to hold it on. I think the tight fit is the way to go. Just have to get it on, once! Not perfect (my painting leaves a little bit to be desired), but working so far. Thanks for your work on this!
196828AC-1E29-4EBD-8CFE-A565725925E1 (resized).jpegQuoted from SBrothers:Go checkout the “top 100”...Apparently Wonka is now the #1 pin on the list!
How did that happen? System glitch?
Don’t get me wrong, I feel as though it deserves this position, but damn if that wasn’t an unusual overnight turnaround
CE ratings got to 25
Hi, upgraded from 1.32 to 1.33 and now have a trough error. Seems to test fine, fires one, two, three, all the way up to 6 balls, recognizes all of them but as soon as all 6 balls are in there, the error comes back.
Video upload not working but there are two pictures of the test, one when the ball launches, the other when it comes back, as soon as the trough recognizes 6 balls, it puts up the red error. No error with 5 balls (starting the game goes to ball finder) but won’t start the game until it finds the 6th, and then won’t work.
Edit - prior to upgraded to 1.33, I was on 1.32 and some weird stuff was happening, kept launching multiballs when it should not have. That only happened in one game before I upgraded, but the upgrade may not be related to what's happening.
Help!
85ACE734-5FC5-4D7A-9B15-E7367B7EA227 (resized).jpeg6BCACCFB-7E4F-4B56-B13D-0B0139775647 (resized).jpeg9868CE65-0979-418D-BBFA-425E512063FB (resized).png82C28160-3EC6-4DDD-BCB4-A810066905E0 (resized).png
Quoted from LTG:Please turn the game off. Reseat ball trough connectors. Try again. If errors then check in Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Could be a failed ball trough board.
LTG : )
Thanks Lloyd. Tried the power down / re-seating the connectors. Same thing.
Everything seems to work perfectly in the test, except the error appeared when 6 balls were in the trough.
Will try the matrix switches tomorrow. Thanks!
Quoted from frobozz:Your trough jam opto seems to be on permanently. Is that the case even with all of the balls out of the trough? Is there some piece of errant stuff blocking that opto? Or as Lloyd says, maybe a bad opto board. Check the soldering on it if you're handy with an iron, or contact JJP support if you're not.
Yes learned that from JJP support, the 6-ball jam is not supposed to be green. Going in with an iron today. 
Where on the board is the 6-ball jam opto? I guess I could make sure it’s not blocked.
Quoted from naf_llabnip:robbyirl5 , I sincerely hope this is not annoying for you but I have to ask: are you THE Robby McGehee? As in THE Indy 500 rookie of the year? If so, I don't follow the sport closely like I used to, but I was a fan in the stands many times in Texas when IRL raced there in late 90s and early 2000s, and I remember one Mr. Robby McGehee battling at the front in some races (confess I was a Jeff Ward fan coming from a moto-X background, but I was a big fan of all the insane guys strapping themselves into those machines for my entertainment). Those cars were so fast in person that they were literally a blur going by. Sorry off topic here, and I hope this question is not bothersome, I'll delete this post if so.
Not bothersome at all! That was me in a previous life (last Indy was in 2004), now I’m just an old guy with 11-year old triplets and a massive addiction to pinball, LOL. Jeff Ward was awesome and that race in Texas was with Scott Sharp. I still say he moved up on me.
Quoted from SBrothers:Huge IRL and CART fan here!
How very cool to know I share a pinball passion with a driver in my favorite sport!
Short of the Indy500, Texas is without a doubt the most “edge of my seat” race of the season! I can only imagine the “pucker factor” when behind the wheel as a driver! You have my utmost respect Robby!!!
I searched YouTube for the video of the 2000 Texas race and it looks like equipment issues resulted in Robby’s DNF. They mentioned an Indy lights race where Scott sharp edged Robby by fractions of a second in June of that year. Is that the race you’re talking about? I’d like to watch it if available.
Sorry for perpetuating the Indy car lovefest, but it’s also a passion of mine.
Gets exciting at about 2:03
It was an IRL race, first (of many) really close finishes on super speedway.
Thanks guys, humbled by your comments. As they used to say in racing, keep the shiny side up!
Quoted from djsolzs:I agree the whole thing is silly. But it seems to be that big of a deal to some people that they go and flag a bunch of honest reviews. Instead of wasting time flagging reviews how about go play some pinball.
One thing I will say is that I do think newcomers rely on this heavily in their decision for purchasing. Same as the average price that is displayed.
I think this is very true about newcomers. When I got involved that’s where I started and tried to build the top 10. Now I’ve sold several of them in search of special games.
Quoted from Pinman502:Curious to see what others got inside of their collectors edition when I got mine nothing was inside had to get a hold of them to send me out the coin box and power cord and everything else I don’t know if they quite sent me everything that everyone else got inside of theirs definitely did not get no side protectors for the art blades also has anyone else having issues with chipping around the slingshots
I got the side-art protectors with GnR CE but not wonka CE.
Quoted from d0n:The infamous ball trough error.
[quoted image]
The trough Optos don’t seem to have enough solder on them.
I can trace every game killing drain on this game back to the right ramp reject (due to a missed shot). It's amazing how what looks like the easiest shot on the playfield is the killer, for me anyway. It's either an immediate SDTM or a complete high speed loss of ball control, usually into the pops or quick outlane. Ugh. All that frustration, this is currently my favorite game (and it's sitting in between Pirates and GnR CE), I keep coming back even after new game honeymoons.
Quoted from Goyomex:So, my Gobstobber target stopped working. Got the dreaded target open error message. On closer inspection, the top of the switch simply broke off. See the pic below. The arrows highlight the end piece of the switch I found in my ball trough.
I’ve only had the pins for about 90 days. First real issue. Would something like this be covered under a parts warranty? And if so, would appreciate any guidance in how I go about getting a replacement switch. Is there a claim process with JJP?
Thanks in advance for the help. [quoted image]
I can’t imagine why they wouldn’t send you a new switch under warranty. That said it seems to be a fairly common issue. Their support said it’s about bending it right and making sure there is enough tension on the springs. Didn’t work for me (would love to see them come up with a solution), I 3D printed a piece that a fellow Pinsider designed to sit on top of where the switch catches, and it’s done the trick.
Quoted from LTG:My Willy Wonka didn't have a spare USB port on the motherboard. So I picked up a USB Hub and plugged the WiFi dongle and Bluetooth dongle into it. And then plugged that into the USB cable by the cashbox.
The USB Hub I picked up had four ports. So if I want to add an image or do a USB update, I can plug it into one of the two spare ports.
LTG : )
This is what I did works great.
Quoted from Pinman502:Yes it is the CE my post were straight but I have a lot of clearcoat pooling on both Sling’s
The cliffy set covers the star posts (carbon fiber rings), but should we be changing out the narrow posts with star posts (as the repair kit for POTC had)?
Scorbit - so I’m connected, have my venue setup, game added, and now what? Played a game. What (if anything) is Scorbit doing in the background? If I set a high score is there anything I have to do to post or is it automatic?
Quoted from naf_llabnip:I have been meaning to ask the same question, always seems strange when you hear the saucer reference.
I think they are referring to the hole that the ball rests in (before it kicks out to the upper right flipper) when you go through the WonkaVision. Odd that they would reference it because it's not really visible from the player's position and has nothing that I'm aware of to do with the theme. It would be like saying, "Shoot the VUK!" almost. Or maybe I'm missing something, either way, no big deal, just something I was curious about.
Quoted from Kenz:Possible show game for display but never used.
Could have been for Promotional trailers . Wouldn’t bother me. If condition is mint then just be happy you have a CE!
^^^this
Although should have been disclosed. Bummer, but not the end of the world. If it’s in new shape, it’s new and once you throw the box away, I wouldn’t give it another thought (other than maybe ask for something back from the distributor).
Quoted from GAP:Lets set the record straight, the story is not being told correctly. I purchased 2 games from JJP, 1 new Wonka CE and 1 show game. Mike Fox an employee of JJP can confirm this because he oversaw the transaction of these games with JJP and GAP. In Jen's email she did not know 1 of the 2 games was new, so she missed typed the email, thinking both games were show games and they were not. I paid for one show game and 1 new game which the show game was slightly discounted and the new one was not. She assumed they were both show games and they were not, so there lies the mistake in the email. Not Jen's fault at all. Mike Fox can also confirm this. The customer received the game today and called me at 12:11am I missed his call. The customer got a hold of Mike Fox and explained his concerns and Mike called me to discuss the game. that was at 12:19pm. I told Mike Fox I would take the game back at this time if he was not happy, full refund Mike Fox called the customer back, to explain that we would take it back, but Mike also told him that game was new, never opened, that they got that game back because a customer didn't want it. He had to open it and inspect to make sure nothing was wrong, test it and then reboxed it. Mike unboxed it inspected it with another employee and deemed that there was nothing wrong with the the game and that it was never opened, never played and there was nothing wrong with it. They tested it, like they would do in the factory. As of !2:30 pm, Mike Fox called me back and said that he explained everything to the customer, because he personally oversaw this machine and that they were sold out at the factory and that it was new and that I would take it back if the customer was unhappy and the customer told Mike Fox at that time he would keep the machine. That's at about 12:30pm. Mike Fox called me back and told me everything was fine and the customer was going to keep the game. I assumed everything was good, Mike said customer was keeping it, until a friend of mine read this thread and told me about it. I get that the customers concern, in that he thinks he maybe getting a a used game by the letter on the box but that letter was wrong, didn't know it was there. If I thought for one minute it was used I, I mean played by another customer and returned, I would never have sold him this machine. Plus JJP confirmed it was new and never used. If the customer told Mike Fox he was keeping the game at 12:30pm why is he posting in this thread? Why didn't he call Mike Fox back or Myself and say he thought about it and wanted to return it after all. We told him he could. The game is brand new, not sure what more to say.
GAP
Thanks for sharing, would be good enough for me to open, enjoy, and put the confusion behind.
Quoted from zaphX:I recommend 2 of the generic slot protectors from Cliffy, as those slots tend to get beaten up pretty badly by the ball drops.
Install them open side DOWN to avoid stuck balls.
I installed mine open up, get the rare stuck ball, ugh, not like easy to lift up either.
Quoted from zaphX:You can do it! I did the same thing and sawing dental floss got them up to where I could flip them around.
Great call I started with a small flathead and realized that was not a great idea. I’ll try when I get back home.
Quoted from cooked71:Huge PIA that switch. I ended up fixing with a combination of bending the leaf and rotating the whole switch. Took a bit of trial and error but haven’t had an issue since. Surprised JJP hasn’t issued a fix for that......then again doesn’t surprise me at all.
That 3D print solved the issue completely for me with a little tinkering.
Quoted from Beez:I ORDERED A WW CE TODAY ... CAN’T WAIT FOR IT TO ARRIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You won’t be disappointed.
Quoted from dsmoke1986:I just installed PinStadium Neo's on my WonkaSE...They look amazing, must buy mod.
My 11 year old said it looks better than the UV Kit that we installed on Stranger Things...It's a must buy
Agreed
Quoted from delt31:Haha
Btw - I enjoy your tutorial videos. Good job on those. I’m also on a JJP kick. WOZECLE, POTC, Hobbit, GnR LE and now Wonka. DI is the only one but I really don’t dig the theme although I appreciate the great layout. Wonka and DI in the same collection - might be too much.
I think Wonka and DI play pretty differently. Obviously same designer and I really like both, Wonka better if I had to choose but I think Dialed In plays faster. Agree on the lack of theme, but the way it plays and the value (any JJP that starts with a 7 is a good deal!) I think it’s a win. They are no more alike than hobbit and WOZ in my opinion.
Quoted from zaphX:I've had a few people request this, this is a deep dive into Kid Multiball and how to get that golden ticket.
I did collect it once about halfway into the stream.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/877425253
Do you have another link for this Kid Multiball video? Twitch link is dead. Thanks!
Quoted from zaphX:I aim for the orange on the playfield art from the right flipper. It hits the captive ball and bounces to the upper right flipper.
This is the answer works every time!
Quoted from 27dnast:Anyone have DI and WWCH sitting next to eachother? Do they feel a little samesy?
I once had Ripleys and TAF - they were too similar. Wonder if DI and Wonka have that same Lawlor feel, or if they stand solidly alone?
I do, enjoy them both. I like WWCE better - I've had it longer and am better at it, it's probably my favorite game. I think DI is a quicker game, feels "Lawlor flowier" if that's a term, but theme isn't super impressive. I don't think they feel too much alike, but I have 12-14 machines at any given time and I love Lawlor (also have TAF and TZ). If I only had 2 machines, I'd get something different, and not own both.
Quoted from Phbooms:I had a GnR SE beside a Wonka SE for alittle while. Wonka is so much better its not even a comparison to me. GnR code is all about score which i absolutely hated unless the games from the 80s. Wonka has such a smooth feel it made GnR feel like it was designed by a rookie with so much clunk and boring shots. Light show wise GnR crushes everything but the light show gets old quick when theres no story or narrative to the code besides get the highest score possible.
I don't agree with this, but to each their own!
Quoted from NightTrain:I've got GnR CE and Wonka LE. I haven't turned on Wonka since I got GnR....
Wonka is an awesome game, but I just love the risk/reward that GnR has. I also like the fact that you can have a shitty ball 1 and 2, and it really doesn't matter. It can all boil down to just one song that you kill it on.
Both these games are awesome. They are just so polar opposite each other.
If I had to only own two games, it would be Wonka and GnR. They really compliment each other!
Quoted from zaphX:Hobbit I had some trepedation with going in. I don't care for the theme, haven't seen the movies, and the game did not resonate with me on casual plays at friends houses. But I had an opportunity to get a really nice one so I jumped at it, reasoning I could always sell if I didn't like it.
Once we understood the rules, we both fell in love with it. It's a great game and the longer ball times are refreshing if we're getting beaten up by the other machines.
I can't stress enough how different each and every JJP plays. That makes them very hard to "rank."
I will say that like RobbyIRL5 the two we are currently playing the most are Wonka and Guns.
I love my Hobbit, its my reprieve from getting my butt kicked in Wonka or another game, lol. Not sure exactly how it happened, but I killed Smaug last night, was pretty cool, was initially concerned I broke the machine as everything lost power. I think I started the mode during a crazy multiball. zaphX your Kid Multiball tutorial was amazing, changed my game today. Nice to know what you're trying to accomplish.
Quoted from NightTrain:I couldn’t agree with this more. I could deal with the theme. But I could not deal with this. I got rid of this game because of the SIM shot alone. Absolute luck to hit that shot, and it’s SOOOO important. Such a shame.
I’ve got a Dialed-In and have been trying to figure out that shot. Didn’t get any answers in the dialed in forum, but I probably should’ve searched. Is there really no way to make that shot consistently using skill? Or is there any bank shot that you can make that will consistently go in there?
Quoted from Skipnatty:You can bank a shot from the lower left flipper into the rubber below the drone target and sometimes that will go in, otherwise, if you want it to be easier take the rubbers off the posts around it and take the cliffy off.
Thanks I’ll give it a shot. I’m not really looking for it to be easier, just trying to get some feedback on if it’s intended to be hit-able from that upper right flipper or if it’s just meant to be “chance” to which would seem like a questionable design issue. Love the game, not dogging it, just curious!
I feel like I saw some thing about this somewhere, but why does it seem like the flippers get weak during multiball? I could be thinking about another game but I sort of remember somebody talking about the magnets pulling all the power. Does that ring a bell or was I thinking of something else? Could just be getting hot.
Quoted from zaphX:I found that during multiballs the magnets suck power away from the flippers.
I believe my Wonka flippers are +2 from default, will check in the AM.
That’s what I saw (and the info I was looking for)I just couldn’t remember the fix. Had to be from one of your posts. Thanks!
Quoted from zaphX:I found that during multiballs the magnets suck power away from the flippers.
I believe my Wonka flippers are +2 from default, will check in the AM.
Flippers +2 is definitely better. Tried it out tonight.
Quoted from SBrothers:Off topic, but
Hey guys are you +2 on ALL FOUR flippers or just the lowers?
I had my lowers set higher than my uppers and I’m planning to dial them back to +2. I have my lowers at +4 which I’m finding a bit strong during single ball play since the update.
Just the lower 2 for me (so far).
Quoted from Jamwin:Thanks for sharing this. Since you posted, I have been paying more attention during MB and agree, feel like flippers lose power. Question, is there any downside to going +2 on the flippers? Is it harder on flipper coils or anything like that? Just curious what the benefit/risk is before I adjust. When it comes to tinkering with things, I am limited so want to minimize any future fixes.
Btw, thanks for your WW videos, taught me how to play much quicker.
I don’t think there is risk turning them up. Even if the coils went bad (got too hot), I think they can be replaced for $20 each. It would not be something I’d worry about, no chance of causing damage unless a fire starts! Now outside of multiball, i could notice the extra power, bricked my saucer shot a few times but you get used to it quickly.
Did the latest update reduce VUK powers? All of a sudden my wonkavator VUK and post-go stopper lock VUK (that kicks into the shooter lane from up higher) are struggling (taking 2-3 attempts). Totally new issue never happened before (and happened at the same time so thinking update). Checked all hardware under the playfield and is tight.
Thanks!
Quoted from Tdavis7965:Same here, I tried the beta version and noticed a random VUK knock during attract mode, so reinstalled the 1.37, problem solved. Now,
All of the VUK powers seem reduced, so increased each 1-2 until no more issue.
Easy-Peasy. Just glad I’m not the only one or I would have been more worried. Thank you!
Quoted from zaphX:I'm surprised this hasn't been discovered yet!
If you haven't opted into beta updates you might want to consider it. A -huge- 2.0 update for Wonka just dropped.
The long and short of it is difficulty and balance changes and I can attest it makes the Wonka you love even better.[quoted image]
Wow.... any bugs in the code or play ok?
Quoted from psexton:This may seem like an odd comment and I don't mean to bash this game, but it feels "cheap" to me. Meaning it feels "light" as in weight, not heavy/solid construction like the other JJP games. Anyone else feel the same and is there any fix like maybe putting some weights in the cabinet bottom to give it a heavier more premium feel?
Not to me. What are you comparing it to?
Quoted from RDReynolds:So what’s the best way to tap into the gi? I’d hate to splice into a line but seems that would be best or...?
I would tap into the back of one of the connectors. PinStadiums come with “wire taps”, which are about 3” of insulated wire with about 1/3” exposed on each end. One end forced/jammed into the back of a molex connector, the other folder over and alligator clipped to. I don’t think you have to splice.
Quoted from Lermods:Don’t do that, accident waiting to happen, can’t believe pinstadium does that. What if one of those backstabbed connections comes loose? The proper way is to buy the connectors and make a splitter.
You guys are right I don’t think it’s ideal and maybe I’m on borrower time until something craps out from a short.
Quoted from daveyvandy:I've had the taps short before which caused a fuse to blow on the Wonka lighting board... which had to be sent to JJP to fix since it's a surface mount fuse. Instead I use these with great success:
amazon.com link »
If these are considered acceptable, I’m going to give these a try. Do they damage the original wire (if removed)? Or I guess you’d just remove the connector and leave the T on the wire.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I did. They pop off after a few games. Maybe I should try some glue
post 6820
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675550
This is what I use, works great.
Quoted from Animal:Hi All, Im a new owner of a WW. Looking at a test report it says ball trough #5 and #4 are stuck open. Game seems to play fine until a ball is physically locked: when I put a ball in the elevator. When I do this, 2 balls are released into the plunger lane. Any idea how to fix this? I have re-seated the wires to the optical board of the ball trough, but that didnt do it. Thanks! PS, first JJP too, so feeling like a newbie...
I had this too. If you know how to flow the solder on the back of the boards (on each sides), that fixed it for me.
Quoted from paulbaptiste:Anybody own both Wonka and Elvira HOH and can speak to a preference? I'm thinking of listing my Wonka LE for an Elvira but have only been able to play one on location so can't speak to the longevity of the game. I know these opinions would be highly subjective but for those who have owned or do own both it'd be nice to hear your thoughts.
The problem with letting JJPs go is I will most likely not own one again, or be able to afford it a year or two from now. Although this will probably be true for EHOH as well.
I’ve got a Wonka CE and had an EHOH SLE. Both are great games. Based on the fact that I still have Wonka, I ultimately like it better, but EHOH is very good.
Quoted from zaphX:Wonka has an unbelievable amount of staying power, doesn't it?
It’s awesome. I’ve been on about 10 honeymoons with new games and I still always come back to Wonka as my favorite. It’s pretty perfect. Just the perfect amount of challenge. Make-able shots, with challenging rules (love the beta). Definitely the hardest to walk away from!
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I was able to sink 30 balls in most secret machine and my gob stopper switch functioned perfectly with the 3D print you sent me! Collected 4 golden tickets and didn’t even make it to pure imagination this time. So quite a bit more is attainable.
But I feel like extra balls launched when I didn’t earn a multi-ball so I’m trying to figure out why. If that’s the case my score was defiantly aided by the multi balls.
I had this happening, trough optos needed solder flowed a bit.
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Shoot man, I am sorry to hear that. So I could get back up and running quickly, I decided to take a shot at the reflow (per JJP instructions I didn't even need to remove the board), and so far that seems to have solved the issue for me (no random balls in about 5 long games). They should be able to take care of you though, although they did warn me that the trough opto boards are backordered (hence why I decided to take a shot at the reflow). I did add a little solder as well.
I had to add solder when I did mine (I'm definitely no pro at soldering either). I took my board out and dropped a big old glob on there (trough jam opto). Not pretty but solved the issue!
Quoted from Jamwin:Absolutely maddening when this happens and yes, happens at least 50% of the time for me too. Probably the only bad thing about the game IMO.
Also, noticing more magnet-play with the 2.0 code, maybe my imagination but I am having my fair share of balls heading towards a flipper and take a 45-90 degree turn SDTM. Still love the pin but man it can be frustrating.
I feel better now, thank you all for listening.
Pop bumpers on other Lawler games are dangerous too. Just have to try to strategically stay away from them if the ball save is off. Every time you go in there it changes briefly from a game of skill to a game of luck!
Strategy question - for some reason, coming out of the pops seems worse than it use to for SDTM. So I stay away from them. Is there a safe shot from the upper left flipper when the lock is not lit? I used to always rip that spinner (such a satisfying shot), but now that my pops seem to hate me (maybe even with help from magnets), I’m not making that shot anymore without the wonkevator lock lit up. So I’m shooting the GUM targets a lot more, but that’s also giving away control of the ball. Any tips or strategy to retain ball control from the center ramp diverter drop? Maybe just let it roll down that left upper flipper to an inlane?
Quoted from inverted1:Is the ability to cancel out of a video by pressing both flippers a new 2.0 code feature, or am I just the last person to realize you can do that? I never noticed it until 2.0, but can't say for sure if I ever tried it prior.
I think it was new to beta 6 (release 2.0), can skip videos to release ball and keep gameplay going.
Quoted from Rager170:First ive heard that said here hahhaha. Give it time and that left lane will make you wanna kill yourself haha
I think these outlanes are docile compared to Stern's with slings set high enough to launch a plane off of an aircraft carrier, lol. I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
Quoted from Rager170:lol, sorry, I just cant agree with that on that one Wonka outlane.
Im the type who absolutely hates to change games from their "intended" settings.. But after a year and a half of constant frustrations with that left drain, I finally suckered up and put in that "cheater post". What a difference that made for me... I can actually enjoy the game.
Ill be curious if your opinion changes the more you play...
Regardless, enjoy! Its a great machine.
It’s been my favorite shooter (amongst some good competition in my house) and go-to when I’ve got an hour or so to play, I think I’m around 800 games. It’s the hardest for me to walk away from.
I've been away from my favorite game (Wonka) for awhile, came back to it and it's still in the #1 position (with GZ, IM, DP, and a few others in the neighborhood). That being said, since I played last and did a bunch of updates, did they get more aggressive with the playfield magnets? I feel like several times it aggressively took a ball that was headed towards a flipper and pulled it SDTM.
Quoted from bigd1979:All jjp le pins are amazing and are all a different experience... wish i cld of kept them.all.but not enough room . Di and Wonka are my overall favorites but my new g@r is slowly catching up with them more i play it. Woz , hobbit and especially potc were great but i perfer the layout and rules of di Wonka and g@r
I’ve had them all, and currently own Wonka, GnR, and Pirates (and WOZ, at a friends house). My personal opinion is that Wonka is hands down the best shooter, GnR and Pirates with a close second. GnR is a tech marvel and Pirates is just so good. I love Dialed In and might get another, but that SIM card shot feels flawed (chance vs skill, I’ve heard do to the factory cliffy). I had a Hobbit Smaug, which was the most beautiful game made in my opinion, and the theme integration/videos second to none, but it just a big open playfield, fun but not on the level. WOZ is the same and I’d say one of the top collector pins, but play is not great (and unlike Hobbit, overly challenging, left outlane is miserable!). All my 2 cents. My Wonka CE is bolted!
Forgive what might be a dumb question, but how do you keep Wonka’s office going? When I hit the lit shot it kills the flippers and says i won. I’ve gotten about 4 million on it (which is my best) but it lasted 20 seconds. Assuming I make other shots to build up the jackpot? But how do you know which shots? Any shot on the same side?
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Ok Wonka owners. Have a big problem. This game is so awesome it's making it impossible to pick out another pin to buy. Nothing really compares. Any suggestions? I've owned woz before so not that. Don't want dialed in. Don't want gnr. Ideas for anything that comes even close to this masterpiece?
Godzilla, Iron Maiden, Jurassic Park, Deadpool, Twilight Zone, LOTR. Wonka is my favorite game but every one listed above are close, play as well.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:I've played Avengers on location, it was ok. What I am looking for is something that feels just as magical as Wonka, maybe that pin doesn't yet exist I don't know. I kind of feel like with a lot of newer Sterns they lack toys and magic, they are more geared for tournament play and focus solely on scoring and not modes. Don't get me wrong, I love my Star Trek Premium and it's bolted because I am a huge Trek fan but it's more of a fast and ferocious scoring game and the modes don't feel special like they do on Wonka. There are such a wide variety of interesting shots on Wonka, Lawlor may be my favorite designer.
Twilight Zone. Plays slower like Wonka (vs a fast Elwin Stern), and has that Lawlor “feel”. It’s a tough game to fall in love with on location. I didn’t “get it” when playing on location but took a leap of faith based on it being a #1 rated games for years in the previous generation of games.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Anyone here think Hobbit is as good as Wonka?
Not even close. Hobbit is gorgeous and the video assets are probably the best of any game I’ve owned and played. But as a pinball shooter it’s not even in the same league. Still fun though. All of course, in my humble opinion.
Quoted from 27dnast:So there’s never a time where you hit the Wonkavator shot and the ball gets kicked up the Wonkavator and immediately released?
That happens to me. I can’t tell if that’s part of the game (and I don’t have the ball lock qualified)… or if something’s wrong
If the lock is lit, it should stick up there. Unless there is a ball or two there from a previous game - to which on my game with default settings, it still locks, but I think you can get rid of that lock "hold" in the settings, either by turning on competition mode (you don't want to be loading your opponents locks) or some other setting (where the game is keeping track of your lock shots). Is it starting the multi-ball after 3 shots up there when the lock is lit?
Is the game detecting all of the balls?
On the new LE’s there is a contraption under the gobstopper that keeps the gobstopper target mech from going too far and the switch roller getting stuck on top (jamming up the whole mechanism). Lots of fixes out there (I 3D printed a fix, I hear that tightening the switch by putting a piece of paper in there works), but would love to install the new factory fix which seems pretty clever. Anybody ask JJP about this?
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I would also like to do the factory contraption fix as well. Did they revise the manual with a drawing of it ?
Manual on the website has a date before the LE’a came out so assuming it’s not been updated. Waiting for a picture of it to send a note to JJP support.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Manual on the website has a date before the LE’a came out so assuming it’s not been updated. Waiting for a picture of it to send a note to JJP support.
So apparently I've lost my mind. Got a couple of pictures of the new LE's, and its the same as the CE, although haven't had anybody complain about the same issue. Maybe they made that switch arm longer. I'm not sure what I thought I saw.
Anybody with a new LE have the issue with the switch arm/roller coming over the target bracket on top?
Quoted from Rjbdmdmd:So I have a new 2022 run Wonka LE in box and the opportunity to get a CE. Did the majority of Wonka CE have playfield issues. Any feedback on the 2022 playfields. I have a GNR CE which I had to place PETG washers. Thanks in advance.
No issues on CE playfield after 1000 plays
I’m embarrassed I don’t know this as I have a lot of time and good scores on this game.
What qualifies super lock (I know there is a mode, maybe orange arrow at saucer from captive ball)? Anything else?
What causes the diverter on the middle/left ramp that blocks the ball and drops it to the upper left flipper? I’ve had a super lock lit and can’t intentionally get the ball to that flipper! I guess I need to know how!
Quoted from jackd104:Super lock is qualified in a few ways. One it’s one of the computer awards. Two it’s one of the captive ball mystery awards. Three every third factory mode you start will light super lock. On this last point, every three is what the game manual indicates however my WW came with this set to four, so I changed it to three.
On your second question. If super lock is lit, that will activate the diverter so you just need to hit the gobstopper or camera ramp. However if scumdiddlyumptious collection is lit (the hat lamp by gobstopper target) the diverter won’t activate. That is really annoying when trying to score super lock. So in that case you have to wait for the hat to unlite or collect it first.
Thank you! On the second question, what causes the diverter to drop the ball from the ramp when superlock is not lit?
Wonka CE - 1300 or so plays (95% me), 33M high score (yesterday!), no playfield issues, and my favorite game for quite some time (in a pretty stacked collection). Probably time for a little maintenance - right ramp switch doesn’t register every time (just a matter of bending the switch blade properly), saucer is starting to not recognize the ball (I’d say 5% of the time, anybody know if this is a real switch or opto?), and ball is hanging on left inlane switch (some bending should fix this). Can’t believe this game isn’t in the top 10 (or even top 5), I can’t get enough.
Also, noticing some odd behavior on my right ramp. With a really solid shot, sometimes it reverse direction right at the top and comes back at me, anybody seen that? Also tonight for the first time the ball jumped straight ahead on the right ramp, over the left curve and up near the upper right flipper. That’s new too.
Quoted from zaphX:SAucer: It's an opto on a small PCB, clean it with alcohol.
Left inlane: You need cliffys on the inlanes if you don't have them already. Repeated ball drops dent and damage the wood over time.
Thank you. I’ve had a cliffy since day one. Maybe it’s dinged up a little. This might be the one machine that I put the open end up on the slot protector, could be getting stuck on the cliffy!
Anybody notice the new LE’s care coming with the flippers too cradled? I’ve played a few and have had to relearn the shots from my CE. Kid multiball shot is also really tough. I don’t think they should droop like Elwin games, but would think they should align with the inlanes.
Quoted from waveform:I do think the Kid shot is just tricky to get a feel for, but it has at least felt somewhat similar on the early production SE and LEs I played along with my own I just received. If it's particularly odd, may be worthwhile to consider adjusting flippers.
On my LE as received from the factory (built late 2021), my left flipper was significantly higher than the right, which seemed to result in way too much power when backhanding the Gobstopper ramp (always airball) and hardly enough power to get up the Factory ramp (off the very tip of the left flipper). I move the left down a bit and also adjusted the EOS switches to close nearer to the end of stroke on all four flippers, which helped with power approaching the end of the flip. It plays a lot more evenly, now, and I was able to drop the flipper power for the main left and right each a notch or two to hopefully cut wear & tear.
This being my first NIB game, I wasn't sure how much tuning to expect on switches and things from the factory, but it seemed like I got none or worse than none (not necessarily a complaint - figured this could be normal). My slingshot switches were bent back away from the leaf that touches the rubber pretty far, meaning the ball needed to really dig into the slingshot before it fired. Similar for most of my standup targets. But, it was fully playable out of the box and has not been too bad to get those things adjusted.
*edited to attach a photo of my flippers after adjustment for reference - not saying they're perfect, but working well for me
[quoted image]
Looks like left is a little higher than right. Right is how I like them (and how they are on my CE), aligned with the inlane.
I imagine it’s personal preference but I’ve always bumped up my flipper strength a bit, as it feels like the magnet in multiball weakens them (to the extent it’s hard to make up ramps). Got that tip in this thread!
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:Looks like left is a little higher than right. Right is how I like them (and how they are on my CE), aligned with the inlane.
I imagine it’s personal preference but I’ve always bumped up my flipper strength a bit, as it feels like the magnet in multiball weakens them (to the extent it’s hard to make up ramps). Got that tip in this thread!
Here is where I believe the game plays best, lined up with the in-lane guides.
B6728A6E-A4CF-43FA-974E-DF5A82925791 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jnyvio:Hello, i am thinking of purchasing a WW machine.. I really enjoy the Oooomoa Looompa Song... However, when looking at early youtube reviews it appears the whole song does not play, instead you only hear Ooo... Paa loop... Aaa.. as if it was slowed down and the words of the song are spread out... Was this changed in a later firmware?? Does the entire Oooompa Looompa song now play at some bonus point??
Cliffy’s and PinStadiums!
Quoted from Good-Times:I’m revisiting the possibility of getting a Wonka. My main hesitation is the music. Does it get to you hearing that theme song over and over or is it ok? Can it be changed? I sold Munsters because of this…
Doesn't bug me, and frankly the words Wonka would probably have never left my mouth had it not been because of this pinball (meaning I'm indifferent to the theme, music, etc). It's my favorite shooting pinball (from a shooter and collector standpoint), and I've got all the good ones. And, it caused me to go back and watch both movies, and realize the first one is not a kid's movie, very dark lol.
I could live without a lot of my collection, but not Wonka. I'd go for it.
Recently I’ve hit the saucer and this yellow graphic comes up over and over as it makes a slightly annoying sound. Seems it’s registered the saucer but then sometimes sits there (ball search has even started). Usually shaking the machine helps a bit. Is there an opto switch down there that may not be registering? Thought I’d ask before I go in.
2BDDD666-ABD3-4F73-96C2-D72DA0C85E4F (resized).jpegQuoted from prentice:Lately I sometimes get a random ball added during gameplay. I’m assuming there is some trough opto issue, but I can’t see any issues when I fiddle with the trough connectors in switch test mode, and there are no errors showing. Anyone have suggestions?
Happened to me seems to be a very common issue, just re-flow solder the backside of the trough (if I recall). For me it was the ball jam opto (I think that’s what it was called) that’s opening and causes the random add.
Quoted from jackd104:Don’t know the exact sound you’re getting but it’s common for flippers to make a little hum when held.
There are good guides for rebuilding flipper (just google that). Although if this is a home use Wonka you won’t have to replace the flipper or rebuild them for years, if ever. Just change the rubber when it gets worn, and check on the mechanisms under the PF every once in a while and make sure everything is sound, intact, the end of stroke switches are adjusted well. After a few years you may think about changing the coil stops. I think there is a good video on JJPs website about flipper maintenance.
I’m a little OCD about it, I change out my coil sleeves and stops every 500-1000 plays, at least on Wonka, it’s the game I play the most. Nothing feels better than fresh flippers. I used to power up my flippers by a few points (per recommendation from here), but I think one of the latter updates took care of the weak flipper during multiball issue (at least for me).
Quoted from zaphX:Vid's flipper guide and Butch's JJP flipper videos are both great resources.
I didn't need to rebuild my flippers on Wonka until 8169 plays.
I thought I played my Wonka a lot lol. I’m close to 2000 plays. Holy cow!
Quoted from zermeno68:How would you compare this game to WOZ? Which one is enjoyable to play through code/profession/etc??
Trying to narrow down if I should get WOZ or Wonka. I have played both at location so have not gotten the ability to play in depth.
Not even a comparison unless you just want to look at it. WOZ looks good! Wonka looks good and was designed by the best pinball designer alive, shoots really wee, lots of flow. Not easy but one is my favorite pin (Wonka), the other is in my collection but just sits.
Quoted from JvdS:Hi , if i flip to the right ramp half of the time the ball goes that fast that it flies out of the ball rail….but lowering the coil is also tricky (to weak for some right ramp shots).
Any suggestions?
I’ve got 1500 plays on mine with a GC of 33M, and anything under 10M gets me angry. That being said there are days when breaking 1M seems impossible. If you’re not hitting shots it’s a punishing game. But it’s not as bad as WOZ. I look up expecting 3M and it’s at like 60k lol.
Quoted from mikepmcs:It's plastic number 04. Very common casualty. I made an .stl file for it a while back and have it on my machine.
Here is the thingiverse link if you have a 3d printer or know someone that has one.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4679354
r/
Mike
perfect, I've got one. but don't have clear PLA (if that exists!)
with all the talk, I've got my Pinwoofer setup coming for Wonka CE (and missed the discount code by about 12 hours) 
I never really had issue with the sounds, but it is my favorite game, so why not give it what it deserves!
Quoted from Rager170:I never tried. I figured if I saw any wear I would do it.
Anyone else?
Same, got everything else in. That looks like a real but kicker but can’t be worse than removing the Black Pearl on POTC.
Quoted from mikepmcs:Do you have or know anyone with a 3d printer?
If so I made this a while back.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4679354
r/
Mike
This worked great for me.
Quoted from Rager170:Now that I was checking out Lermods Translite lighting, I see that he offeres Warm and Cool lighting.
Does anyone have pictures of the differences?
Warm pic attached. Looks great but I’d probably choose cool, the reds in the back glass will warm it up enough.
47F2C28B-793B-49FA-A56E-A963306A07AF (resized).jpegB223F46A-B35B-4721-8F21-04EA9E4D91BE (resized).jpeg
BD9EE509-CE1E-4DC6-849D-684622A25325 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rager170:Thank you! i think it looks nice. Maybe a little washed out in his face, but that could be the picture only.
I think that’s just the picture, it doesn’t look like that in real life. Some how the camera is picking up a lot of red. Here is another try
707D1CD5-9E29-4C18-965B-2576546A3DA4 (resized).jpegQuoted from Travahontas:ArcadeBar inspired me to document my Wonka sound settings with the PinWoofer DIY kit I'm so fond of. I've included the settings and the recommendations that come with the kit so you can compare and contrast - I'm sure neither theirs nor mine are the best, but they are both something to try!
[quoted image]
Got my PinWoofer installed, and is very cool, glad I did it! You can feel the games sound now, in a good way, it needed it. I didn't really realize it, but it was pretty empty sounding by default. I tried both settings and ended up with the PinWoofer recommended, but I also liked this alternative, both way better than default speakers/sound.
Quoted from Rager170:Thats an interesting point also... Yes, I certainly dont need it overly bright.
Does anyone know what kind of LEDs are for the translite from stock? Warm or Cool White?
I think they were cool. Still on there, just unplugged. Lermods suggested cool to me, and for some reason I thought the warm would be better. Looks great maybe just a little too red/warm (and that might just be a CE thing, without looking it up, I don't know if the LE backglass is reddish). Reflection hasn't been an issue, it's not super bright it just illuminates what's there.
Anybody have balls flying off the right ramp into the shooter lane? This seems new to me. I've also had a few fly over my flipper and drain. The reason I'm posting is I had a great game going (ball 1, 7 million! - not that that means much in pinball), and it f'ing drained over my flipper! Seems like its ramping the balls, and I haven't changed anything, everything looks normal.
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