Has anyone installed plastic protectors from mezelmods? They have two options, clear or colored. Would like to see pic if anyone has these on a game, thanks in advance!
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Has anyone installed plastic protectors from mezelmods? They have two options, clear or colored. Would like to see pic if anyone has these on a game, thanks in advance!
Quoted from jester523:I put one colored one on, and do not like it. Didn't bother putting anyone other ones on. I may get the clear. I'll take a pic later and post. It's muddles the graphics on the plastics.
Thank you very much, appreciate the input here-
Quoted from Rager170:Wow, that is a ton of plays!
I have always wondered about that sticker as it takes so much abuse in that area... Surprised this is the first time we have seen it.
Quoted from Jamwin:Thx man for the clarification and suggestion! Much love!
I’ve seen a ball stuck in the back area a couple times but never when I am playing the game.......still not sure how it’s happening but it seems to be caught in a no mans land under the plastics in the back left corner.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Happened to me when I first got my game. Adjusting the roll over switch in the back left cured it. It was too tight against on side and drop all the way so a slow ball would hang up.
Mine is actually getting stuck in the area under the large square-ish plastic, jumping off the playfield near the top of the back edge and rebounding through the gap there. I put a modified post in the plastic hanging down yesterday after looking at it more closely, will see if it happens anymore! I think a previous owner may have removed some mods before selling the game and not got the plastics back in proper order, there were other issues with the factory ramp plastic also I had to address.
Hobbit and WW are both bolted to the floor at my house. Wonka is just silly flow shooting around, hobbit is serious strategy and quest for points. Love them both but Hobbit gets way more attention from me, it’s truly a quest every time and you have to change your strategy as your game develops.
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:Quest for points? I thought Hobbit was mode based and more of a journey? That’s an important distinction for me, because I feel Wonka covers the points quest nicely and I’d like a deep counter to that
My opinion: Scoring high is all about clearing a 5 star mode then going deep into or beating the wizard mode(s). Clearing the 5 star modes requires a ton of set up with the multi balls and timing your Smaug start to support 6-ball slamming and stacked ball saves to get the targets for riddles or whatever you prefer. If you don’t execute then you downshift your strategy and settle for a lower opportunity wizard mode score. It’s a journey, and you can optimize points if you’re strategic in your approach. Love to hear how others do it though.......maybe a good topic for another thread.
Quoted from gliebig:Huh. Mine pretty much worked flawlessly from day 1.
Don’t get me wrong, I wanted to love it and was having a blast my first game until the multi ball start failed and the game had to be shut off.
Quoted from Rager170:Good to know, thanks. I honesty didn't like how hard it seemed to go on when I tried briefly. Im not in love with the mod like some people are... Probably sell down the road.
I have the mod installed and used some clear gorilla tape on the outer edges to keep the tubes connected to the pipes. It’s not visible when playing. It shifts when I lift the play field sometimes and I need to reseat the clear pieces, so it’s a little high maintenance but it’s not a complete fail in my case. It looks great and the movement of the valve handle when the ball passes through is very cool and everyone that sees it loves the detail. Just one opinion.
With all the discussion on video issues I'm wondering if the wifi code enablement and related wifi adapters may be part of the issue; has anyone done the tests with wifi adapter installed vs. disabled on each version? Just a thought, sorry I don't have time right now to work on this but definitely want to see it resolved.
Quoted from SBrothers:My hesitation to download the beta is pushing my GC score up astronomically high; they throttle the scoring back down on the alpha and now my GC is unattainable.
Backup your scores before you update. Not a problem-
Quoted from SBrothers:Backing up my high scores would merely carry the beta GC score over to the alpha update. So the problem would persist.
Not if you backup before the beta install and do a restore later. That’s the point of a backup.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Someday I’d like to upgrade to code 2.0. Keep hearing it’s a great improvement .
My 11 year old Mac apparently can’t open the files from either of the links posted by JJP for their install. I can downloaded Willy Wonka 2.0 file no problem. It’s the other two apps like unetboitin or Rufus or whatever it is called that don’t seem to work for me that you need to arrange it on the usb. Keep getting an error on each that they can’t open a file. This sucks. Wish it was like a stern and you just downloaded the file on a usb instead of needing extra software.
Keep trying to get my wife to use her new ish PC I bought her, but she is reluctant to and says it may slow her PC down with the added programs. Guess I will forever be stuck on code 1.33 unless she falters or I go to Costco to by a PC.
Not sure if it works from 1.33 but I opened the backglass and plugged in my lan cable to the processor directly and updated that way.
Quoted from pcprogrammer:Ok Wonka owners. Have a big problem. This game is so awesome it's making it impossible to pick out another pin to buy. Nothing really compares. Any suggestions? I've owned woz before so not that. Don't want dialed in. Don't want gnr. Ideas for anything that comes even close to this masterpiece?
Have you played hobbit?
Quoted from Kenswift:Does anyone have specific rules for each mode?
For instance slugworth multiball is hit a ramp then hit the captive ball for jackpot? Correct?
Or the factory is the ramps but you end it by shooting into the left of the Wonka vision? Is that right?
Some of these things are hard to figure out and would love if there’s rules this detailed somewhere?
http://tiltforums.com/t/willy-wonka-rulesheet-early-wip/5406
Tilt forum is the go to for any rule sheet IMO
Quoted from JohnJ1366:Thanks all the kids are older so according to the wife I’m the only “child” left
The only child, who never left!
Quoted from whoknowsgoi:my left ramp shot can be clunky if not hit dead on, any tips for correcting this?
Also make sure the ramp isn’t loose to the playfield-
Quoted from pcprogrammer:I want to be able to play it with lights off or dimmed but improve the playfield lighting slightly. Maybe the trough lighting kit would help?
I added led strips to the side of the upper ramp and the back of the ramp sign, also have star post lights on the slings. Both are pretty cheap and simple. I also have a poor man stadium strip on the left and a spotlight by the left diverter but those are a little more complicated / invasive.
Quoted from LTG:I won't.
I don't want people to think I'm still with them.
I was low cost before, no reason to help for free. I wasn't wanted.
LTG : )
Sorry to hear this Lloyd! Appreciate all of your contributions large and small to the community-
Quoted from gorditas:I just finished installing the Pinwoofer JJP Super kit in my Wonka LE. I'm genuinely impressed with the quality of the components, especially their PCB and wiring. Instalation was pretty straightforward, and everything fit.
The only other game that I've bothered with the audio on is my IJTPA. The factory speakers and sound on the original machine sounded weak and anemic compared to my Stern and CGC games. The transformation on Wonka was on par. I've heard things from the few games I've subsequently played tonight that I've never heard before from Wonka. The only complaint I had about Wonka prior to tonight was the sound: that is no longer the case.
TLDR: I won't rush out to do this mod on every game. For Willy Wonka, however, I think it is worth the time and money.
My wonka ended up with a pinwoofer after the GnR thing didn't stick around long..........I agree it's a nice upgrade. Little pricey for a non-music pin but mine was paid for already .
Quoted from gorditas:Put on alternate rubber, and have both. Post caps, with the closed end cut off and facing down work perfectly. [quoted image]
I agree! This solution worked for me, protects balls from damage and allows the outlane post for family friendly play.
Quoted from seenev:I'm going to set this up so my kids stop pulling the plunger so hard.
you would think the repeated SDTM from the pops would help them learn not to do that!
Quoted from Rager170:hahaha im banned from the rainbow puke club lol. I have an issue with how that thread can be allowed on Pinside and the moderators do not care. Having a thread that blatantly takes photos of peoples machines from Pinside, and makes fun of them doesnt seem to fit the vibe of what Pinside used to be about.
But those guys are funny. They use the term "Monochromatic" often but its not correctly used. Ive never seen a machine having literally only one color within viewing area. Even the back glass provides some light... They seem to think basically any color in the GI makes you not see the ball. Luckily, ive never had that problem.
Haters gonna hate…….it is entertaining for a minute sometimes.
Quoted from Rager170:I meant others should try for themselves first...
Yea, its strange why some work and some dont. I wonder if there is any "play" with how those posts and if they could be adjusted very slightly. Not sure but im not touching mine hahaha.
I have a early build and I have a friend with a new build. Something has definitely changed, I've installed his post and the exact same post rubbers that work on mine (from my supply) don't work on his, the new game cannot have any rubber on the middle lanes post if the outlane post is installed. Just an observation, it's not a big deal and simple fix to remove the middle post rubber if you want an outlane post.
Quoted from judremy:I want to add lighting to Wonka and have both 12V and 5V LED strips. Which one should I use to tap into the GI and where is the best place to do this? The LED strips are 5050 ones and I have all the other stuff necessary except which LEDs to use and where to tap into.
My game has a 12v tap off the power supply for my added lighting, that is the best route for JJP games in my opinion but it won’t be GI reactive.
Quoted from Rager170:I find it very strange that JJP says the fix is just to leave it as bare metal. I find it extremely rare to see a bare metal post in a game.
............or remove outlane post, and you have bare metal there. It's not that uncommon, Deadpool is one modern example. There are many-
Quoted from bossk4hire:I've been having issues with the plunger spring progressively gets weaker as I play multiple games in a row. Sometimes is too weak to get out if the shooter lane. I had also changed the plunger tip to a titan rubber... maybe part of the issue?
The auto plung is fine.
Anyone else fine this issue?
Jjp sent me a new one and 15 games in and same issue.
I spray a little silicone spray on a a paper towel when my games get gummed up and clean the plunger that way, which seems to usually solve my issues with manual plunging. Just pill it back and wipe what you can reach.
Buy the spring assortment pack from any parts supplier and you can adjust the strength if you need to that way.
Ok my LE lost it’s mind last night......on my fourth or fifth game it lost track of a ball in the saucer. No big deal, shut game off, go to bed, simple adjustment tomorrow.
It’s now in bizarro world. In lane switches set off pop bumpers, upper loop switch sets off a sling, multiple switch errors. Auto launcher fires randomly at startup 10 or 11 times, shooter lane switch doesn’t register. I think a board fried.......anyone seen anything like this before?
370320CF-14AC-4A57-8BAD-B27F1DAF253C (resized).jpegE7255E52-D2AF-4F3D-B636-8B9F83FF395A (resized).jpegQuoted from zaphX:Most likely one of two things:
1. A connector is not well seated into the driver board behind the LCD
2. A ground wire broke off one of those targets in the list and needs to be resoldered.
I checked the ground wires, that was my first thought, and all connectors in the general vicinity of the red problem row. Will check back box, just strange it happened mid game after a few games played and now things seem seriously “cross-wired” it’s just nuts how wacky it’s acting. They usually don’t register (open, not closed) when a ground breaks off I think?
Quoted from LTG:I/O board - be sure J200 is on tight. Then follow the white wire with green stripe, see if it broke off a switch somewhere on the switches on that row. That would get rid of most of your issues.
LTG : )
All ground wires are connected and J200 is reseated, same behavior. It truly is looking like things are 'cross-wired' as if switches map to different logic points. The launcher firing at startup seems to indicate there is a ball in the shooter when there is not.
Putting it in test mode, I can activate the ball trough jam opto with a screwdriver, and then the switches pictured above change from red to green but still don't work, yet some switches when activated trigger the wrong coil / response. Outlanes triggering pops or slings, etc. as I mentioned before. Put myself into beta code group and got that update but it didn't change anything
Quoted from mikepmcs:Something very similar happened to me once on wizard of oz. One of my light/IO/logic boards(or whatever they are called) under the outlane TOTO rollovers came loose from its adhesive and was shorting out on a screw head. If the above suggestions don't do the trick, maybe it's something like that happening and something came loose and dropped on to a piece of metal and is shorting out causing the chaos.
r/
Mike
I wasn't able to find any loose screws or parts generally speaking. The lock mech that releases balls from the secret machine had some loose screws behind the backboard, and one missing screw on the coil mount, but that may have been gone for awhile (hard to say) it's not in the cabinet anywhere and I don't see where it could fall and short out a board.
Going to try a software reload..........then call JJP I guess. 10/21 build hopefully they can help figure this out easily and cheaply
I have a set of Pingrafix hologram art blades that arrived after I traded my game away, $75 + shipping or I can bring them to expo. PM me if interested-
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/jjp-willy-wonka-pinblades-holograffix
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