(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 13,945 posts
  • 675 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 hours ago by LTG
  • Topic is favorited by 257 Pinsiders

You

Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 132 votes
    24%
  • Limited Edition 289 votes
    53%
  • Collectors Edition 123 votes
    23%

(544 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #149 Deep Dive on features and all that is wonka Posted by pin2d (5 years ago)

Post #150 SDTM video on Wonka - interview with Pat Lawlor and Joe Katz Posted by ZMeny (5 years ago)

Post #160 SDTM gameplay video Posted by ZMeny (5 years ago)

Post #188 Rules Flowchart Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #248 Features Matrix - CE, LE, SE Posted by f3honda4me (5 years ago)

Post #554 Early Stream of a home owner who received their game Posted by Habermania (4 years ago)

Post #785 Gobstopper subway VUK not ejecting ball fix Posted by Lermods (4 years ago)

Post #793 Gobstopper subway VUK fix pics for reference Posted by Lermods (4 years ago)

Post #1130 Latest code changelog Posted by LTG (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3597 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

[quoted image]

Interesting that he has ANOTHER flavor of the motherboard. The CMOS clear switch is next to the top and to the left of the F_PANEL block instead of below it like on yours.

EDIT: I'm 99% sure this board is a H310M-A 2.0, and that means that starting with Wonka, JJP has moved or is beginning to move to boards with the intel H310 chipset, which makes sense as the H110 chipset is now almost 5 years old and the H310 was released only last year. Probably has to do with availability as the H110 motherboards are likely drying up in quantity.

#3599 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

I keep getting my tilt bob switch stuck to open. If I move it a bit it will reset. Anything I can do or adjust to keep this from happening? Thanks

Make it more sensitive so you get a tilt warning in-game every now and again to keep the advisory message at bay is about all you can do.

#3612 4 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

Installed the LE topper today. very nice[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Such a shame they abandoned the real animated topper for the CE. I wonder if it was mechanical issues or licensing approvals that killed it?

#3615 4 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

well, I can tell you the topper settings in the game menu will NOT turn down the brightness even when you set it to. seems to be non dimmable LEDs in it

Likely a software oversight. I'd tell JJP via support, but chances are they already know.

#3619 4 years ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

What i don't like, why they penetrate the theme with so many Willy Wonkas?
Why again a Willy for the topper, he is 20 cm far away on the backglass.
Why not the Wonkatania for example with the passengers inside only.
Same shit with the sideart of the CE. Do they have Willy clones?
There are a lot of other unique elements in the movie. I don't get it.

An animated Wonkatania was supposedly the original topper for the CE, but there was some problem and it was canned after a long delay.

#3622 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Hi All
My buddy got his LE - today turned it on and nothing- no screen or lights - boards look OK- no fuses gone.. ltg could use your expertise on this one

Are the red lights next to the fuses in the area below the CPU box in the backbox lit? If yes, then you need to kickstart the motherboard. Instructions here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/47#post-5329186

If they are NOT lit (i.e. no indicator lights at all on the machine in the backbox or cpu box), check the plug to the machine to make sure it's inserted all the way.

#3625 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

[quoted image]

You need to kickstart the motherboard. The boot on power glitched/failed.

#3626 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Lights are all on.
How do you kick-start the PC?
Thanks

Instructions here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/47#post-5329186

While you're in there, since you have to figure out what motherboard you have to find the right jumper pins, report back what motherboard you have in your Wonka. It seems that JJP is transitioning motherboards again in their machines and are using H310A now.

It won't help you today (you'll have to do it manually), but I made a breakout box mod that makes it much easier to recover from this situation you might want to look at for the future:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/03111-power-cmos-kicktap
(use pinmonk.com for international ordering)

#3634 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Anyone ever see this, game is off but my coindoor lights are still on? What's weirder is Elvira is next to Wonka and when i turn Elvira off the lights go off. Its like Wonka is somehow drawing power from Elvira. The games are plugged into different circuits too.
[quoted image]

Sharing anything? External Sub? Amplifier?

#3636 4 years ago
Quoted from Devinsupertramp:

On my Willy Wonka Limited Edition, I have version 01.14 installed. From my understanding I need to not to a delta update but a full update. I tried doing it with the Willy Wonka Full Install 1.31, using the unetbootin. I'm on a Mac. Once I do exactly as it says, and I put the USB into the Willy Wonka machine, I turn it on and it just turns on the game like normal. I've spent the last 6 hours on this and I am beyond frustrated with it, anything I'm doing wrong? Do I need to name the thumbdrive something? Any help would be huge.

So if you look at the root of the USB you made with unetbootin, what are the files/folders you see? There should just be a handful visible in the root.

Also, what size/brand USB drive is it?

#3641 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Polk External sub. I disconnected wonka from it and the lights went off. Why would that happen? Never seen it before with other games.
Could it be I have wires on the speaker terminals reversed? Wonka is obvious as positive is marked red on the cabinet sub. But Elvira isn’t marked. I have negative hooked to the yellow wire with a black stripe.

It was the first possibility I thought of when you said shutting off the adjacent machine affected it. Definitely some kind of wiring issue, then.

So you're using the Stern cabinet woofer leads to go to the sub? That's not ideal. You can make a sub-out lead that is specifically for subwoofers if you have the right revision of CPU board (not all the Spike boards have it). What's the model of CPU board in Elvira?

#3646 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Not sure of the cpu model, but it’s the first time I’ve ever seen this. Yes, using alligator clips, I clip to the cabinet speaker terminals and run them to the external sub, same as I do for every game I’ve ever owned. I reversed the leads on the cabinet sub and it still happened. I have external subs for all my games, 2 to each sub, and never had an issue like this. I went ahead and ordered the pinnovators sub hook up for spike games, which I believe will address the issue. The sound improves when I have Elvira on the sub so I’m pretty sure my hookup is correct, just not clear why voltage would leak through. Pretty odd.

Using sub out (you can make your own cable if you have a CPU that supports it - the number is screened at the bottom of the board) will give you cleaner sub sound since it just sends the sub bass and not the normal bass that goes to a cabinet speaker.

#3648 4 years ago
Quoted from DJNOEL30:

I keep getting an elevator diverter malfunction and when I test the coils it seems to be working fine. I haven’t reached the point in the game to use it but it does keep warning me of the malfunction every time I turn the game on. Anyone see this and have a way to trouble shoot it?

You answered your own question. If you don't achieve the feature in x number of balls, the software thinks there may be a problem preventing it from working and wants you to check it. Ignore it.

1 week later
#3690 4 years ago
Quoted from DougPiranha:

When I unplug #3 red which goes to the 3rd lock opto, switch 1 stops working.

Those wires are VERY fragile, so it's possible the one going to 3 has one of the 4 wires just broken, but it could be mixed with bad assembly.

Unplug all three (black, brown, red)

Then plug the brown one into the red socket. Trigger opto pair 2 on the wonkavator. Does it trigger 3 on the switch test mode? Yes? No?

#3741 4 years ago

Hallmark is clearing out their keepsake ornaments. The Wonka Oompa Loompa ones are now 75% off ($4.50) with free shipping to a local store:

https://www.hallmark.com/ornaments/keepsake-ornaments/willy-wonka-and-the-chocolate-factory-oompa-loompa-ornament-1799QXI3379.html

1 week later
#3958 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

I went and grabbed a new flash drive as the one I was using might have been suspect. So I loaded the full install on it and it didn’t crash. It’s been sitting on the jersey jack logo now for about 15mins. Hope this is doing something fingers crossed. I do have a new ssd to try if this doesn’t work. Edit it’s been over an hour with it sitting on the jjp logo. So I just shut it off. Tried it again with a new drive and the old one and it just gives a crashed error like I posted above. Guess I’ll have to call them.

You could plug a keyboard into the motherboard and reboot, tapping F2 to access the BIOS settings and disable the JJP splash screen and reboot to see what's going on when the motherboard boot messages are visible...

Also, while you're in the BIOS settings screen, if you go to the hard drive section, it will tell you if it sees the SSD properly to eliminate that as an issue.

#3960 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

They have the bios on lockdown with a password. Also I don’t have a number to reach anyone live. I really need to get someone on the phone.

PM me for the password.

#3994 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Too bad. Brat is much better there than kid..

Even Rascal Multiball, Unruly Multiball, Wild Child Multiball...any of those would have had a better ring to it than "Kid Multiball."

#3996 4 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Really not that big of a deal man!

I didn't say it was. It's just that I find it hard to believe that they ran through all the possible alternatives to Brat and the licensee would only take "Kid," which sounds dumb.

#4006 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Still not had a definitive answer to the Wonka CE owners manual - will they get one..
I’m looking to get a few printed if the answer is no... ltg who do I need to contact at JJP to find out.

I thought JJP was done with printed manuals.

Moot point right now anyway. Butch isn't even done with the 1.0 Wonka PDF manual.

#4029 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Question for you guys. This might sound dumb but... lol
Do you guys do anything special when putting on the legs of these machines that are powder coated? The reason I ask is becuase I noticed that when I put on the legs for my WOZ and cranked down the bolts, they chip away under the bolt. Obviously not an issue since its under the bolt but I can see this spreading if needing to take on and off...
Wasnt sure if anyone uses a rubber washer or anything like that?

Nylon washers from Ace Hardware or the like. That's where I get mine. Dirt cheap protection. Some of the Stern pins come with thin ones now (Batman SLE, one other, but I don't remember which...)

#4030 4 years ago
Quoted from chad:

I noticed Willy Wonka is not on IPDB?? Tried different ways to search , no dice .

They've been slowly updating the database after like a year down while they had issues...

#4033 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

So installed the new drive today and it’s doing the same thing. Would a bad driver board cause it to crash? All the lights are lit red with the cpu flashing red. Checked the fuses and they all tested ok but I’m going to pull them and retest each one. Very strange what’s going on for sure. Will contact them again on Monday.

When you say "all the lights" is that on the motherboard or the circuit board below the motherboard?

Can you post a picture of the computer motherboard and the circuit board below the CPU box with the machine turned on?

#4035 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Here ya go I’m speaking of the driver board down below. The cpu light is flashing red the rest on the left are a steady lit red.[quoted image]

This is ANOTHER motherboard change? Now they're on ASrock H310CM-HDV instead of Gigabyte? Is that stock?

Did you get into the BIOS with the password and turn the boot messages on so you can see if it's actually booting?

Did you try shorting the power pins on the jumper block? It sounds like your lockup was one thing and now the boot on power function of the motherboard is glitched. Seems to happen too much. I made a product to make recovery more convenient:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/03111-power-cmos-kicktap

But for now, here is where the pins are to short:

fix-dead-jjpotc-ASROCK-H310CM-HDV_mobo (resized).jpgfix-dead-jjpotc-ASROCK-H310CM-HDV_mobo (resized).jpg
#4037 4 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

It looks like the PC fan is spinning so I don’t think it’s the boot issue..this time.

Maybe. Could be CMOS corruption, too.

Would be helpful if the motherboards didn't keep changing...

#4039 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Ya the pc is on, I went into the bios no problem everything looks fine as it’s recognizing the ram, drive ect. I did disable the jjp screen but it’s not showing me a post screen just asks to hit f2 to go into bios. I need to poke around and see if there is a show post option. I’m pretty new to pins but computers I do know about. The motherboard seems to be running fine. It’s not a cmos thing because the game is booting to the drive. After that is when the problems start. I think the drive is looking for that I/o board and it’s not working so it errors out. Kinda like golden tee when you have a disconnected i/o board it will boot and then error out. It’s just my wild guess and may not have anything to do with it. I mean Me and Steve thought it was the drive. Something else is going on. We’ll figure it out haha.

Will it still boot from the bootable USB that you made to re-install the code on the SSD?

#4041 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Nope crashes, also for shits and giggles I disconnected the power to the I/o board and all usb plugs. Just the monitors connected. Grabbed my golden tee 2019 drive I had left over. Guess what it booted into game files no problem. I shut it off as I now know the computer is working fine.

Maybe put the USB plugs back in one at a time booting between each and see which one resumes the crashing (or if none do after you get them all back in, then it's very likely the I/O board).

#4044 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Ya I can try but I need someone to pull there backglass off and confirm in they have a flashing red cpu light on the I/o board, a steady red or a green light. Mine is flashing red which is telling me that’s it’s not getting a signal.

Flashing red can also mean activity. It's not always red/green. Solid red/flashing red is cheaper.

#4046 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Ya true maybe I’ll poke around the new Manual and see if it says anything.

Why waste the time? You're talking maybe what, 3 USB cables and 3 reboots to know? Seems like it'd be faster to just do it.

#4048 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

No i follow you for sure I’m doing that as we speak. It’s 5 usb plugs total

Given that zaphx has noted problems with the camera, I'd plug that one in last.

#4050 4 years ago
Quoted from Gumby510:

Ya I did that was the last one I plugged in. I need someone a programmer from jjp to look at the error logs and see what’s not booting ect.

But did it crash/stop booting when you plugged any of those in and rebooted?

#4073 4 years ago
Quoted from pballjunkie:

Thanks I will try that 1st thing in the morning at the shop and let u know what I find.

Widen the pins on the two pin ball trough opto connector just a little (the other side is a 3 pin connector). This is the one that most commonly causes what you're seeing, and if the pins are a little wider, it lets the connector grab it better.

8 months later
#6312 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If you're getting nothing on powerup the PC may just need a jump start (short the power up pins.) That procedure is pretty well documented. vireland even made a button kit to make it easy if it's something that happens a lot.
Frequent power cycles can cause this.

It's a pretty common problem. I even sent Jack a kicktap trying to get him to implement that or something like it from the factory to make these issues more user-friendly when they happen. JJP really should fix this moving forward. Considering how many pinball novices will be buying jjGnR, the problem's not going away and reducing it to pushing button 1 or button 2 to fix it is much more user-friendly.

Also, the power cord coming loose inside the metal plate on the back is pretty common, too if you have NO power. A simple server power cord clip would solve this permanently for less than $1 at the factory, but that hasn't been implemented either.

3 months later
#7308 3 years ago

EDIT: ALL POSITIONS FILLED. I had a big response to the notice for JJP Tibetan Breeze kit testers and all machine testing slots are already filled. Thanks to all who were willing to jump in and help get these kits available to everyone!

#7312 3 years ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I just got on to post about what I thought was bad flipper fade after about 45-60 mins. Assuming this means I wasn’t imagining it! I’m in when you start making them!

Wonka uses the second to strongest flipper coils, FL-15411s, and they can fade after about 40 minutes (or less if you trap a lot in your play style). Based on the jjGnR kit testing, the fans solve the problem. 11629s may still just creep a couple degrees past 130F peak when cooled (as opposed to 219.8F uncooled), but for 15411s you'll be easily in the green zone between 115-130 max when cooled.

The GnR kit will probably ship first, then when I've confirmed installs and cooling performance with the other JJP machines with the testers that signed up, it'll be available for all JJP machines using custom wiring harnesses designed for JJP machines. I expect broad availability for all JJP machines by the 2nd or 3rd week of Feb.

3 weeks later
#7564 3 years ago

MotorCityPinball is streaming Wonka with live temperature gauges and uncooled flipper coils for a baseline temp test right now:

https://www.twitch.tv/motorcitypinball

Lower left flipper is currently at 176F and he's having trouble with the ramp shot.

Cooled flippers is tomorrow.
2021_02_19_motor_City_Pinball_Wonka_Uncooled (resized).jpg2021_02_19_motor_City_Pinball_Wonka_Uncooled (resized).jpg

#7567 3 years ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Where do you order them from?

The jjp ones aren't out yet. These streamers have the final pre release units.

Should be in the pinmonk store on pinside and on pinmonk.com in about 10 days. Spike and spooky kits are already out.

#7569 3 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

How much play time does it take until the flippers start to fade?

Depends on your play style, but usually somewhere between 30-45 minutes in most cases. Some get hot very quickly (Stranger Things, jjGnR, Rick n Morty), and others take their time (Avengers AIQ, TMNT), but almost all modern pins have fade within a 2 hour window. The only one that doesn't so far is Spike Star Wars.

#7579 3 years ago
Quoted from unlockpinball:

Where is the Pinside discount code to purchase these?

Everyone gets it! The "code" is free shipping, which you get automatically. The JJP kits will be available the first week in March. Beta tests with the JJP machines has most testers with temps under 100F unless they trap up a lot, in which case it's around 120F on the hottest coil at peak. Karl Deangelo (iepinball) is streaming jjPotC this morning (right now) with the JJP Tibetan Breeze installed and temp displays on screen.

#7584 3 years ago

MotorCityPinball is streaming Wonka with live temp gauges and fans on the coils right now to collect cooled temp data:

https://www.twitch.tv/motorcitypinball

EDIT: He's currently much higher than the #1 reported score on pinside and doing Pure Imagination now.

Finished with a score north of 45 Million - double the reported Wonka HS on the pinside list.

2021_02_20_Wonka_cooled-4 (resized).jpg2021_02_20_Wonka_cooled-4 (resized).jpg

#7602 3 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

I dont think so, thanks for the advice, but everything was perfectly fine until right now And after ball search mode, the magnet finally releases the ball.

Go into switch test mode and see if any switches are activated that should not be.

#7624 3 years ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

Maybe I'm in the minority here, but if flipper fade can be substantiated and a fan modification shows that it can be remedied, then I believe at the very least JJP should take notice and offer something to address this. Even if it's a kit that needs to be purchased, it should still be offered from JJP directly. I'll stop short of stating that it should be offered as a recall-type item, but that's the kind of situation we're looking at here, IMO.

With very few exceptions, ALL modern pinball machines have fade to some degree. It's also not a new thing. Lord of the Rings famously had it 20 years ago. Karl DeAngelo was talking about a 1989 BK2000 in tournament play that was fading badly. It's thermodynamics, simple as that. And with modern games having much deeper code that keeps you playing longer and many more skilled players, it's just more commonly seen.

Fact is, the longer you play in a session, the more likely you'll run across it. However, with most normal players having games that last in the low minutes many will never see it. Also, the majority of players are not trap players, which really amps up the temps on non-Spike games. It's really primarily an issue for the better players that have long sessions, and especially ones that incorporate trap play into their style. If you're playing less than 30 minutes at a time, don't worry about fade. You might just see the beginnings in a 30 minute session, but that's all - you won't need fans.

So putting them on ALL machines would be overkill, for the above reasons. What's likely is the majority of the market (maaaaybe 30% of the market needs them due to play style and/or length of play) wouldn't see the benefits they offer. And with tight manufacturer BoMs, it probably will never happen. So they'll probably be an optional item forever for pinheads "in the know" that have a need for them.

1 week later
#7779 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Get some 3M 467MP. Cut to fit. Problem solved.

They have narrow rolls on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesive-Transfer-467MP-Multiple/dp/B007Y7CQ1S

This stuff paired with mylar is great for making your own replacement target stickers, and re-applying under ramp stickers, etc (though you probably want the wide roll for that).

Wide roll version:
https://www.amazon.com/467MP-Clear-Adhesive-Transfer-length/dp/B007Y7CT3S

5 months later
#9367 2 years ago

Anyone know of any reasonably-priced Wonka LEs in the western US for sale? Haven't seen any in the marketplace in a while. They mostly seem to be midwest and east coast. Want to bring one in to speed up the 2.0 Tibetan Breeze kit bracket customization and see if I can also manage to get all 4 flippers covered instead of just the three. Having a Wonka LE on site will make it go a LOT faster.

3 months later
#10142 2 years ago

Just an update for those that are waiting patiently, I have factory production samples of a complete re-design of the Tibetan Breeze flipper coil cooling kit that is necessary for most of the JJP machines (except GnR), so we're getting close to having them available.

I'm going to test/release them for Wonka and jjPotC first since those are the pins that seem to have the most fade (aside from GnR which already has a kit) and therefore the most interest. Then I'll work back through Dialed In, Hobbit, and WoZ, hopefully very quickly since this new bracket was designed to work in all of them. Testing on the actual machines will be the only thing slowing each release a bit.

Note:this is only for JJP machines that are not GnR, also not for Spike or Spooky machines. Those use the existing Tibetan Breeze kit.

4 months later
#11401 1 year ago
Quoted from bossk4hire:

Excited to snag a set once they are out!

Haha, that was a time capsule post. I thought we were close when I posted that, and we're now two prototypes past what I thought was final. I *believe* the next prototype is the final one, but testing will tell. I know Hobbit and jjPotC owners, especially, have been waiting for them. I just want to make sure what's offered is rock solid.

3 months later
#12189 1 year ago
Quoted from VinnyBlanc:

Hey All, not a perfect game (play-wise) but the points sure tallied up. Could have been great if I had better multi-balls. Still, a new 28.9 million Grand Champion (869 Wonka Bars) Might be a good reference if anyone is newer to the game and trying to digest the ruleset. I know there are some great guides posted here already, but I’m sure it can help supplement.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1531625923[quoted image]

I didn't see that you had posted this run using the new universal CGC/JJP Tibetan Breeze brackets. Crazy run for your first one after installing them. Every test machine in the beta has been a positive result, so I should have them finally available to buy for all CGC/JJP machines (not just GnR like now) sometime next month. Foam samples will be here next week, since I had to change it due to how different these ones are from the Spike brackets (out of necessity due to extremely tight clearances on JJP).

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