May not have the tilt bob in ... I can't tell you how man times I went to purchase a pin and no tilt was in.

Early Christmas present!

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The thickness of that topper's plastic is good, I was thinking these would be much thinner. I like the artwork.

Wow, that is one nasty chip....sucks

Turn off the tech alert red dot and warning at power up.

Then ignore it. You'll only see it when you hit the enter diagnostic button, and you know it isn't an important error.

LTG : )

I agree. it’s very heavy and sturdy. The black back plate is stamped steel, not molded plastic

Hi All

Was playing Wonka, first time I lite the Super Lock. - No balls in lock.
Make the spinner shot - ball is kicked up, lock ball 1 animation- ball rolls down and then released straight away!?

Anyone else have this? I will look at it tomorrow, but just checking to see if anyone else has had this problem?

Thanks

It’s hard this dam game is heavy as hell haha

Anyone?

There is an adjustment in the menu that can affect behaviour of the super lock, shared vs virtual, though I was under the impression the default behaviour was shared so the balls should remain locked - they do in mine and I haven't changed the settings. Do they roll straight through, or does it lock the ball and then release?

Installed the LE topper today. very nice

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Such a shame they abandoned the real animated topper for the CE. I wonder if it was mechanical issues or licensing approvals that killed it?

well, I can tell you the topper settings in the game menu will NOT turn down the brightness even when you set it to. seems to be non dimmable LEDs in it

The lock released the ball. Will have a look in settings. Thanks Slippi

Likely a software oversight. I'd tell JJP via support, but chances are they already know.

I had the same issue on a NIB one we recently received. Easy fix, somehow by default in the settings Super Lock was set to “virtual lock” meaning that it counts but does not store the balls in the Wonkavator assy. Just change the setting to store the balls and you should be good to go.

Thanks!!! I just set it to be off while in attract mode, and on during game play.

EDIT: Just wanted to note that I am running 1.32LE

What i don't like, why they penetrate the theme with so many Willy Wonkas?
Why again a Willy for the topper, he is 20 cm far away on the backglass.
Why not the Wonkatania for example with the passengers inside only.
Same shit with the sideart of the CE. Do they have Willy clones?
There are a lot of other unique elements in the movie. I don't get it.

An animated Wonkatania was supposedly the original topper for the CE, but there was some problem and it was canned after a long delay.

I think they are also trying to avoid people thinking that it is the Willy Wonka with Johnny Depp in it. Seriously that's the first question my sister asked when I told her I got a Willy Wonka pinball machine: is it the good movie or the bad movie? Gene Wilder's face answers that question.

Hi All

My buddy got his LE - today turned it on and nothing- no screen or lights - boards look OK- no fuses gone.. LTG could use your expertise on this one

Are the red lights next to the fuses in the area below the CPU box in the backbox lit? If yes, then you need to kickstart the motherboard. Instructions here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/47#post-5329186

If they are NOT lit (i.e. no indicator lights at all on the machine in the backbox or cpu box), check the plug to the machine to make sure it's inserted all the way.

Lights are all on.

How do you kick-start the PC?

Thanks

You need to kickstart the motherboard. The boot on power glitched/failed.

Instructions here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jjpirates-of-the-caribbean-troubleshooting-tips-issues/page/47#post-5329186

While you're in there, since you have to figure out what motherboard you have to find the right jumper pins, report back what motherboard you have in your Wonka. It seems that JJP is transitioning motherboards again in their machines and are using H310A now.

It won't help you today (you'll have to do it manually), but I made a breakout box mod that makes it much easier to recover from this situation you might want to look at for the future:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/03111-power-cmos-kicktap
(use pinmonk.com for international ordering)

Thanks game now working.

Not sure what board it is as not there, will ask thanks for the help

We all know that already, sorry that was not the question.

daveyvandy: good argument, but then 1 Willy on the front, 1 on each side, one on the PF and 1 on the backglass should be enough to make it clear.

That’s a lot of willy’s. I’m sure there is a pun in there somewhere......

Ha, maybe licensed use of Gene Wilder's image was really expensive and JJP wants to get a lot of mileage out of it! Also, I just have the SE and there is no Gene Wilder on the back glass so maybe it would not be so redundant on mine.

I also have a SE and would love to have that topper,if anybody wants to get me a Christmas present?

Anyone ever see this, game is off but my coindoor lights are still on? What's weirder is Elvira is next to Wonka and when i turn Elvira off the lights go off. Its like Wonka is somehow drawing power from Elvira. The games are plugged into different circuits too.
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Wonka is mad that you sold Pirates. Elvira is helping him get through it. It will be better tomorrow.

Sharing anything? External Sub? Amplifier?

On my Willy Wonka Limited Edition, I have version 01.14 installed. From my understanding I need to not to a delta update but a full update. I tried doing it with the Willy Wonka Full Install 1.31, using the unetbootin. I'm on a Mac. Once I do exactly as it says, and I put the USB into the Willy Wonka machine, I turn it on and it just turns on the game like normal. I've spent the last 6 hours on this and I am beyond frustrated with it, anything I'm doing wrong? Do I need to name the thumbdrive something? Any help would be huge.

So if you look at the root of the USB you made with unetbootin, what are the files/folders you see? There should just be a handful visible in the root.

Also, what size/brand USB drive is it?

Are there really special / bespoke callouts and sounds only in the CE edition?

If so what sort of things are we talking about?

I just tried your advice, and it worked perfect. THANK YOU! Wish i wouldn't have spent 6 hours trying to figure this out on my own and just come here. Thank you again for saving me so much headache!

- Devin

Polk External sub. I disconnected wonka from it and the lights went off. Why would that happen? Never seen it before with other games.

Could it be I have wires on the speaker terminals reversed? Wonka is obvious as positive is marked red on the cabinet sub. But Elvira isn’t marked. I have negative hooked to the yellow wire with a black stripe.

It was the first possibility I thought of when you said shutting off the adjacent machine affected it. Definitely some kind of wiring issue, then.

So you're using the Stern cabinet woofer leads to go to the sub? That's not ideal. You can make a sub-out lead that is specifically for subwoofers if you have the right revision of CPU board (not all the Spike boards have it). What's the model of CPU board in Elvira?

Are they 2" or 2.5" for the slings? The titan database says 2" but this post says 2.5?

Thanks,
Jeff

Ya I ordered both sizes and the slings look 2.5 I have not taken them off yet to compare. Wish we could get a list going of what sizes go where as the owners manual is not available yet.

Not sure of the cpu model, but it’s the first time I’ve ever seen this. Yes, using alligator clips, I clip to the cabinet speaker terminals and run them to the external sub, same as I do for every game I’ve ever owned. I reversed the leads on the cabinet sub and it still happened. I have external subs for all my games, 2 to each sub, and never had an issue like this. I went ahead and ordered the pinnovators sub hook up for spike games, which I believe will address the issue. The sound improves when I have Elvira on the sub so I’m pretty sure my hookup is correct, just not clear why voltage would leak through. Pretty odd.

That's what I ended up doing as well... Thanks!

Jeff

Using sub out (you can make your own cable if you have a CPU that supports it - the number is screened at the bottom of the board) will give you cleaner sub sound since it just sends the sub bass and not the normal bass that goes to a cabinet speaker.

I keep getting an elevator diverter malfunction and when I test the coils it seems to be working fine. I haven’t reached the point in the game to use it but it does keep warning me of the malfunction every time I turn the game on. Anyone see this and have a way to trouble shoot it?

You answered your own question. If you don't achieve the feature in x number of balls, the software thinks there may be a problem preventing it from working and wants you to check it. Ignore it.

Ok thanks

You can turn that off.

Then only see errors when you open the coin door and hit the enter button.

LTG : )