I've read of others having issues with a Mac trying to update. Just use a Windows PC to do it.

Have a line on a few Wonka's but if anyone leaving club in MD/PA/VA areas, shoot me a pm.

Is LE worth 2k more then standard?

Yes, I have them installed with sideart, not sure about if you are using mirrorblades though. Here's a couple pictures of what they look like. Hope this helps.

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That was me with hobbit last month. Never trying Mac again

I love the new pin stadiums I put in My WWCE!

I spent a ton of time, when I got the game NIB, to fix all the crap that shouldn't have passed QA and since then yes it's been super reliable, I haven't had to lift the playfield once.

it was a one-off transistor issue not an issue with Wonka that would be common. the transistor that drives the ball trough eject coil shorted on the input/output (I/O) board (the giant board behind the lcd screen) and thus in addition to needing to replace the coil and its associated plunger and sleeve, the board needed to be repaired as well. they sent me a new board (i needed to ship bad one back) and coils and walked me through it. board was just all plug and play and coil obviously required quick soldering

Was it recent when you got the extra camera and Oompa Loompa? I had checked a few months ago when I got my Wonka and they were out. If so, I may have to get one.

https://www.pinballlife.com/willy-wonka-oompa-loompa-camera-assembly.html

Another option is to pick up the following mod which protects the Oompa Loompa and the camera. One day I found my Oompa Loompa laying on the playfield as an airball had dislodged the Oompa Loompa from the camera so I reattached and re-glued the Oompa Loompa to the camera and then installed the pile of chocolate bars mod and have had no issues since in 9 months.

https://www.ulekstore.com/Chocolate_Bars_MOD_for_JJP_s_Willy_Wonka_pinball_p/wwcocobars.htm

Gord

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My chocolate bar mod broke week one, plus it blocks your view of the center ramp area.

Mine has been going strong for over a year. Doesn't block my view nor my ability to hit that center ramp, which isn't really a hard shot to make regardless. Meh...to each their own.

First hit. LOL. Back to the drawing board.

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this baffled me when I read it to the point I got out of bed at midnight and went downstairs to look at mine. I made this and naturally want it to work for whoever uses it.
Here is a series of pictures and questions/comments that will hopefully shed light on why this roller is going over the printed part. This morning I immediately removed my glass to mess with mine and my roller does not go above my plastic when I push the blue snubber thingy back to full stop. It literally cannot, as in physically. Something else is the issue and hopefully these photos get you going in the right direction.
best wishes
r/
Mike
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I’m using your mod as well and I tried to push the arm above mine with it installed and couldn’t do it either.

I have this one and love it. Doesnt block anything.

https://pinballmods.co/willy-wonka-pinball-jjp/wonkavision-stage-captive-ball-protector

Good suggestions, I will try these. It seemed to 3D print fine, it snapped right on with no adhesive. I was shocked because I fired up a game and the very first hit to the target and the arm got stuck.

Just did the last suggestion. Switch is moved down a lot more now, and those black screws were loose to begin with. It visually appears better, need to put some games on and see.

Awesome. Hoping it's resolved.
r/
Mike

So after I pushed the switch down and forward it wasn't registering any hits during gameplay. The ball couldn't hit the target hard enough to register the hit. So I did more adjusting and it seems to be ok for now. I think if the piece you designed had a few mm more on the top it would help.

I need a honest opinion from my fellow pinsiders. I took a beating playing WOZ for 4 years, never scored more than a million.
I'm killing it at Wonka, long plays, great score, 3 golden tickets so far.

Is Wonka an easy game or am I (finally) growing skills in Pinball ?

Not sure but I find Wonka to be an easier game.

Its an easier game than WOZ.. But it also is a higher scoring game compared to WOZ as well since the major update.

Is there a quick fix to turning on the main screen in the backbox? I came downstairs to my pins last night to turn the machines off and the main screen was off, but the mini screen was on. I booted down and then up again, but it still didnt power on. Is this a known issue, hopefully with a quick fix?

First thing I would check is all the wires leading to and from the screen, unplug them and plug them back (on both ends wherever they connect to).

Thanks, I just completed that. Everything looked in place, but there was one connection disconnected, but I think it has always been disconnected. Pls see pic (1st pic) in backbox. Can someone please confirm if their 4 pin connector (actually only 2 pins) is connected or lose like mine?

The second pic is of the small screen with simple trouble shooting steps. I attached an hdmi from a laptop to the main screen and booted up the pinball machine and the screen did not respond.

Has anyone had an issue with a Wonka or a JJP screen? Was it the power supply? ...or did the screen die?

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Have I mentioned...

Scorbit v1.3.0 is up:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/scorbit-official-thread/page/15#post-7358304

I would try to narrow it down to a power issue vs hdmi issue. Does it seem like the screen is getting power at all? Can you use a multimeter on the power connector? If it’s not getting power it could be something in the screen (hard to fix), the power cable itself, or something on the board. Try to see where power stops.

By any chance did you buy NIb? I would contact jjp support if so.

Section D-92 of the user manual will show you where the monitor plugs to. I think the lose wire you see is for the lighted topper.
Power supply is common to the screen and the backbox light, so if your backbox light is on, the power supply is likely good.

- Check if the screen turns on when you turn on the game even if it doesn't get a signal. If the screen is on then check the HDMI cable and if it's plugged to the board on the other end.
- If the screen is off, unplug the Power in and check voltage there, should be 12v.
- If you have 12v at the power supply, then take another screen, and plug the HDMI to it, see if you get a signal there.

I think the lose wire you see is for the lighted topper.

Section D-92 of the user manual will show you where the monitor and the power supply plug to. Check on the PCB side if signal cable is plugged. I also see on the manual that there's a DP/HDMI adapter in between, check that one too.

Since the other screen you plugged didn't work either, I would hope the pinball screen is good to go. You can plug an HDMI in the pinball screen from another source, and turn the pinball on, this can confirm the screen is good and the power supply is good.
Other option for the power supply is to measure it and see if you have 12V.

This is very helpful since the backbox light is not working either.

I did this and the screen stayed off, so it may be as simple as the power supply. I will get a voltage meter and check it this weekend. Thank you for the advice and help!

I have a spare Wonka LE playfield if anyone's interested. Prefer local pickup, but might ship UPS ground at buyer's expense. $695 asking price. It's flawless except for a chip in the upper right corner which wouldn't be visible after game installation.

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These are 499 from JJP plus ship right now.. just FYI

Lol

They are… ?

.

Righty…got a link? If so, price drop incoming

*SOLD*

Full set of replacement plastics for Wonka! Selling for $90 (free shipping).

They were $150 (including shipping) direct from JJP. Sent to you exactly how they were sent to me. I'm leaving the club, so no longer need them.

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Any idea on how much a CE playfield is?

Thanks

.

If you find out, let me know. I am interested.

Wondering if anyone has a solution for this. There's a metal rod on the gobstopper target to keep it in place.
Mine comes out a little bit everytime I hit it, until I have to push it back in place. It's annoying.

In the pic below I just got it all the way in and it started coming out after 2 plays.

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The metal rod goes through a kind of sheet metal hinge wrapped over it. The other side where it doesn't creep out. Bend the metal wrapped over the very end of it a tiny bit, to grab the rod better.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG !
#bringltgback

I need to replace the factory tower pcb. Has anyone done that? How much do I have to remove to get in there.

Are the LEDs not working? I replace the light board in mine and it was not too bad. I don’t recall the procedure but it was different than I expected.

I did it earlier. One of the letters wasn't lighting red. It wasn't too hard. You have to remove the wire form. The hardest part was getting the molex connector to separate.

After I got the old pcb out, I hooked a power supply to the pins and tested it pin by pin. The red was working intermittently. After reflowing the solder, I think I fixed it, but I'm not confident enough to use it. I guess I have a backup in case the new one poops out.

If anyone has an extra LE translite, pm me. Looking for one thanks

Just joined the club and having loads of fun and some decent games so far! In the middle of a good one, Augustus flew on to the playfield. I saw that this has happened to others in the thread before me. I have both halves of the spinner, what have y'all used to fuse them back together strongly enough to play without issues down the line?

***Just used some gorilla glue and a little clear packing tape tape for now. Is this a part that can be obtained from JJP to do a better, long term fix later?***