Looks nice but what about a blue for us LE owners?
Also is the red powder coat on the Wonka and Toy Story CE the same red on a GNR LE?
Then this red would work there too

Haha yeah there probably is blue chrome will take a look! Would also work on GNR for sure. I believe the red powder is slightly different on GNR but this red would work.

To our amazing pinball community - have a happy and prosperous 2023!

Thanks,

Dan
https://pinwoofer.com/pinwoofer-jjp-super-kit/
[email protected]
+1 208-855-0346, 9am - 5pm MT, Mon - Fri

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Did anyone install the coil cooling fans ? I've been having long plays lately with a lot of multi balls and at some points I feel it gets really difficult to get the balls up the ramps. Not sure if it's me and my bad skills or if my coils get too hot, but wondering if it would help.

First off, I've never noticed fade on any pin so either I'm an idiot, or it doesn't exist. Please don't tell me which you think is true

Have you bumped up the flipper power at all? Bumping up two notches makes it feel like you injected it with steroids.

I have noticed fade but not on Wonka. I've found the flipper power on Wonka to be pretty consistent during long game play.

Never noticed flipper fade on Wonka either. However it’s not as multiball heavy as say GnR. Very good shooter and not had any issues with it..

Thank you all, I guess I just suck at pinball and suck even more when I get blasted with multiballs. I did try raising the flipper power but I went back to default, the game felt a bit brutal where I like the smoothness more

I found the ramps were unmakeable on defaults during multiballs. I had to use +2 on the lower flippers to overcome that.

Ok, this problem is still driving me nuts. Yes, I tried the electrical tape method suggested, I really think that the switch design is not the exact same so the electrical tape doesn't work. But no matter what switch you have it's the same problem. Just wondering if someone has come up with some ingenious solution, I've posted about this before with no luck. Someone posted a file for a 3D printed piece that might work? I was digging through the thread and couldn't find it.

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I found the file on thingverse, I'll give it a try...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803035

Those didn’t work for me. But this one did. The link is somewhere way back in this thread.

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Still trying to join club. Md/pa/nj. Have Houdini and a shadow to trade. Looking for a modded Classic.

Why does it say "you get nothing"? Did you use some 3M tape to hold it down?

Literally the opposite of what you get when you sink gobstopper holes

I hate it when mods make no thematic sense.

Yeah not a fan of the text- but it installs with 3m tape and works.

Exactly

The electric tape on the switch works great, you just need to make sure it's tight enough

Correct. The goal is to make the switch arm stiff and not floppy/bouncy.

There is no room to even shove some behind the metal arm, and the switch isn't really that bouncy. I've tried many times. Im pretty sure my switch is different then yours in design somehow, at least the back part.

Could a dab of hot glue in the back do the trick?

You guys having a meltdown over why I put "you get nothing" on my roller switch fix always cracks me up. You can easily remix it in tinkercad and remove the letters, or write something else, if it's destroying your psyche.
Here's the thingiverse file again if anyone needs it.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675550
r/
Mike

Yeah they used two different type of switches, my build is the latest batch. It was hard to find the right spot for the tape and I had to use tweezers to put it in, no way to put fingers in there

I had a very tiny flathead screwdriver I used.

Like an eyeglass screwdriver ?

I can’t take credit for this solution as I think I read something similar here somewhere in this thread a while ago. I took the square end of an Exacto knife blade (used a vice and pliers for a clean break), and a small dab of some crazy glue to extend a little arm so that switch roll stays below. Obviously be very careful with the glue. I just extended enough to catch so there really is very little pressure on it in those quick moments when the ball strikes.

IMO - it has worked amazingly well. It takes 5 minutes and completely looks like part of the machine. I hope this helps.
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Yes. I did this and posted it a while back. It’s been on my game now for almost a year and zero issues. Every switch hit works and it never stays open. Simple easy fix that works

My phones HDR exposes this a little brighter, so in real life it's slightly darker. Curious if this is just a global lights issue or standard for the game in dark? Appears super dark during all gameplay that it feels almost unplayable at the top of the game. Hard to tell from Youtube since everyone has different ambient light in their game rooms and this is at a local arcade I play at.

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It's dark. I recommend good overhead lighting, or pin stadiums.

Pinstadiums are a must on Wonka if you like playing in the dark.

How about cliffy’s switch slot protectors? Are those necessary on the location where the ball drops from the ramp?

I’ve heard the ball gets stuck often using these.

You need them on Wonka. The ball only gets stuck if you install them backwards.

Made the decision to get a Wonka as soon as I find one local. I have heard nightmares of JJP customer service. If I get one Im hoping that between Pinside and other friends that would be enough to be the game working if needed? Anyone have a positive experience with JJP on a Wonka issue. This game has a lot going on so I am sure there will be something that will need fixonf down the road

Ordering them tonight then. Thanks for input.

Just to confirm it’s recommended just on the lane which the pinball drops from the ramp right? No reason to put one for the inside lane?

I think I’ve seen folks. Put them on all, but seems overkill.

I had two issues with Wonka. Blemished invisiglass. A broken plastic. Both times JJP support mailed new part within 2 days. Including the whole new piece of expensive glass. This was under warranty so no charge. If you buy a used machine though I am not sure you’re eligible for warranty support.

Put them on both switches where the ramp drops on top of the switch. Any other inlane/outlane switches that don't have a ramp dropping a ball on top of them a cliffy is not needed.

Like almost every manufacturer I've dealt with, they were great until they went radio silent at the end. But definitely feel free to reach out to them, as they were very helpful.

JJP's manager of Customer Service actually told me "switch to decaf." True story.

I enjoy the dark theme myself... Makes that light show pop that much more.

Yeah, I know what you mean. I have my pinstadiums set at a low brightness just enough for my old eyes to see the gameplay, yet maintain that magical lightshow when things really get going.

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Worked with support the other week. Very responsive and good experience. When email wasn’t clear we hoped on a quick call and talked for almost 45 mins to work through the issue and some other tweaks to my game. Better that and Pinside I feel well supported.

Owned a CE since it came off the line. I had left diverter coil go during warranty and a bigger issue with a transistor going and coil frying (smoke under glass!!) and needed a new board. in both cases tech support was fantastic and got everything resolved quickly without issue. Been great from my perspective.

Great to hear. Even if not $$ covered as a 3rd owner.... as long as there is tech support that's great.

Can you still install side blades with pin stadiums? does it block seeing them? May not be worth installing.

Wonka is remarkably reliable in my opinion. I wouldn't worry too much, the game has been out a long time and anything that might break can probably be fixed. I ordered an extra one of those cameras with the oompa attached because I saw some people post about it breaking due to air balls. I figured best to grab a spare while they are still available.

.

What board needed replacing?

Has anyone done update using a mac? I tried to follow JJP instructions but when I get to the terminal box, I get stuck. Not sure how to input commands. Would appreciate anyones advice. By the way, game is running 1.33.