I’d been meaning to ask (and still didn’t understand from this answer) why is the line trimmer a must with the external sub? I think I just ordered the line trimmer for my wonka kit, but I’ve got a spike kit that came with one of my pins where i attached the sub to the sub out on the card in the back box. Should I have done that differently?

Hey mstang01 - thanks for the question.

The SUB_OUT jack on the Spike-2 backbox line out board is consumer level. So, what you have described (for the Spike-2 machine you have acquired) is perfectly fine and works great if you jack into SUB_OUT as you have done. You are good to go on that machine.

What you ordered for Wonka is exactly what is recommended for JJP since there is no other sub output option inherent to the machine (attempting to "split" the motherboard output signal between more than one device creates a lot of attenuation and is not an option). Using the PinWoofer amplifier output, which is pro level / "hotter", requires the use of the line trimmer to avoid clipping / overdrive conditions (at high volumes) and it also allows for more fine control of the input level to an external device. The usable range of the ext sub volume control will be much greater as well.

Hope that helps - always happy to answer questions. Reach out any time.

As an aside, there is now enough drive on our amplifier output to split the signal in case guys want to get elaborate and run multiple external devices. For example, streaming, satellite speakers, external sub, etc. I have not tried splitting it more than once but that is a possibility. For now, let's say that it can be split once. So, if someone wants to run more than one line trimmer, that is a possibility. We plan to rev our TRS splitter board in the near future for this purpose.

I find this confusing. In one reply, you are saying you think people who complain about the sound are deluded, but then a few posts later, you are interested in one.

The sound on this game was crap from the speakers. Even with the upgrades (pinwoofer amp and tweeters), there are several callouts that are of poor audio quality. I really wonder how they sourced the callouts from the movie.

I was very pleased with the pinwoofer “DIY” kit that is a direct replacement for the factory audio board in the backbox instead of addding a separate box with all the extra wires and connections. I also kept the factory sub. Great low cost, low profile, high impact option IMO.

I think were are confusing two issues.

1. The sound design (aka the "sounds like a slot machine" idiots)
2. The machine's sound quality_ which I do find lacking.

That is why I said that I was super impressed when I played it with headphones.
It sounds like I will also be super impressed with a pinwoofer setup.

I took my grille out and a 4-year-old boy went under the cabinet and decided the subwoofer was a giant button to push in with his foot. So yeah, I would leave the grille in lol.

The movie was made over 50 years ago without the benefit of stereo or any kind of digital processing.
I expect the blu-ray has the same sound on the clips.

Ok makes much more sense.

Funny, I actually love how it sounds like a "slot machine". I mean, it is a game after all..

Funny, I have it on 4k but I have not thought to crank the volume of this movie on my home theater setup for obvious reasons hahaha.

This is interesting to know about the sound quality of that 4k release and says some thing about the audio quality in general for what has been released to the masses.

"Although labeled as a DTS-HD 5.1 Master Audio mix (much like the previous Blu-rays) with no indication of any further restoration or remix efforts, it appears that this 4K's default audio offers an an improved surround presence and better bass response than the earlier version. It's still not a crystal-clear experience -- thanks to a few persistent problems with some of the original recordings, such as gauzy distortion and other signs of damage during a few song breaks -- but, for obvious reasons, this lossless track can be regarded as an overall improvement. However... once again, Warner Bros. has not included the original mono mix, one of their nasty audio habits that has persisted since the launch of the Blu-ray format. A simple one-channel track could have easily been added to the 4K's remaining disc space. "

https://www.blu-ray.com/movies/Willy-Wonka-and-the-Chocolate-Factory-4K-Blu-ray/284076/

Same here. Am very happy with this setup. I dont even think I need an external sub in the future.. I did opt for the tweeter upgrades.

I know a lot of people out there have the mentality that the more bass the better, but its supposed to be balanced. This doesnt need to be discussed and we can call it personal preference.

Added a Willy Wonka to my collection yesterday. Wanted to share this with the group...

IMG_1953 (resized).JPG

IMG_1956 (resized).JPG

Nice!

Very …… very cool!

The last Wonka was made in January?

I have 2 nib that have manufactured date of 12/21

with all the talk, I've got my Pinwoofer setup coming for Wonka CE (and missed the discount code by about 12 hours)

I never really had issue with the sounds, but it is my favorite game, so why not give it what it deserves!

Any luck installing the Cliffy scoop? Just got my set and this is the last one to install.... Any tips are appreciated - Thanks

Mine is also 12/21. I wonder if this is an official statement that Wonka production is done for good.

I never tried. I figured if I saw any wear I would do it.

Anyone else?

Not needed on Wonka. The lip to the gobstopper hole has an inlaid plastic and mylar on top of that. It does not wear.

Source: > 12,500 plays.

I think the cliffy you are talking about installs behind the mini display? I looked at it a long time ago and decided not to install it. But I just installed some remaining cliffys on my fish tales yesterday, so I may look at this one again.

Have you been following the DYI speaker upgrade thread? Very informative and interesting.

Really? I dont think mine has that...

Pretty sure he was talking about the Wonkavision saucer hole...

Thats what I thought he was talking about. The Wonkavision saucer hole.

I got one from cliffy because after 1500 plus it’s starting to wear a tiny bit. I went to install it and it’s nothing short of a pain in the ass. Lots of stuff has to come out. I passed for now haha

Ah. No idea if there's wear on that one nor do I care since it's tucked out of sight in the corner.

Thats why I never tried to put mine on..

I wish that hole was deeper, I stopped counting how many times I do that shot and the ball rolls through the hole. Usually right when I need it badly !

Same, got everything else in. That looks like a real but kicker but can’t be worse than removing the Black Pearl on POTC.

I have that problem too and its frustrating.

I also went back and forth on whether to install the Wonkavision scoop Cliffy. It took removing all the surrounding plastics, removing/reinstalling a post or two, and loosening/removing some of the mountpoints for the display assembly. All told, probably about an hour or a little more from start to finish, moving slowly and carefully to not bump or tweak the display or its connectors (and taking some photos at a few points as I went to make it easier to reassemble - may or may not be useful, but pasted on this post).

I'm not sure if it is thanks to the Cliffy or not, but I rarely to never have issues with the ball flying through the saucer, though I have seen it once in a long while.

cliffy01.jpeg

cliffy02.jpeg

cliffy03.jpeg

cliffy04.jpeg

cliffy05.jpeg

Does anyone have any insight to the ball getting kicked back out when you shoot the Oompa Loompa feature? It's the left shot under the Wonkavision. The ball goes in, and more often than not slowly rolls back out again. The flag appears to be working properly in test mode, it's not dragging, moves freely by hand and I have videos and pics if it's helpful. JJP was intermittent and is now silent about what the problem is. Their tech support has been pretty good so far, but now I'm starting to see some "slippage".

I’ve had that happen occasionally too. I just figured I didn’t shoot it hard enough up the center loop to get to the diverter and up to the wonkavator. My diverter works fine when I do the right loop shot for super lock.

Does anyone know what the four rectangle lights leading up to the camera ramp signify? I’ve seen it do different light combos like 1 red and the other 3 off, 1 red 2 off and then 1 green, etc. No idea what it means though.

Thank you for the pictures and documentation. I did find it a little odd that the cliffy is for the non-visible part of the scoop, and that's why I never bothered to install it. But, I think I'll finally get around to it this weekend, maybe.

I'm a Cliffy fan but I'm struggling to see the benefit on this one.

I had a heater of a first ball. I thought for sure I was going to set a new high score.

Whole day wasted! (Not really. What an amazing machine this is)

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I didn't see that you had posted this run using the new universal CGC/JJP Tibetan Breeze brackets. Crazy run for your first one after installing them. Every test machine in the beta has been a positive result, so I should have them finally available to buy for all CGC/JJP machines (not just GnR like now) sometime next month. Foam samples will be here next week, since I had to change it due to how different these ones are from the Spike brackets (out of necessity due to extremely tight clearances on JJP).

JJP assured me they indicate progress in the game.

Yep, that's it. Good day sir.

Countless times I bottle the office mode and never complete it on my last ball. Had two golden tickets today. What happens if you complete the office mode.

Wonka says, "you did it!" The machine otherwise goes dark, and the flippers go dead. The screen will total up your score for the mode, then the machine will turn back on and eject a ball to the shooter lane for you to launch.

I am looking to purchase a Wonka LE and one that I am looking at now has what appear to be black washers under the posts. Do the black washers mean that the clear pooled around that area, or are they there for another reason?

Like phill2cb sometimes its drops back sometimes goes into the super lock. Either way i think its designed to come back one way or another.

Know ive finished “MikeTV” (cyan) and its one if the shots signified there, but you are right the lights do seem to build. Particularly red. Skill shot value?

And what do the magnate light colors signify?

Yea. The way the multiball stacks/chains together makes this game. Seems like we both just need more jackpots

8E25AE98-BBB0-438A-B2D6-16E50701E3E3 (resized).jpeg

JJP started shipping games with those stock to protect from the clear pooling, but the black washers also hide the pooling was there.

I removed mine and have not any issues.

They show how many Wonka bars you’ll get if you hit the ramp. If three are pulsing red, you’ll get three Wonka bars, and so on. If they are any other color, it’s because there is a mode shot or jackpot at the camera ramp.

As what Aquapin said… I just bought NIB Wonka LE few weeks ago with build date 9/21…
They have black washers under them.

Worst case you can always check under the washers.

Good point and I do plan to go look at it in person. Thanks for the responses