Quoted from zaphX:I can break it down simply
This is amazing!
Guess who just copied/pasted your list and will print (and maybe laminate) a copy?
Willy Wonka - GOLDEN TICKET SUMMARY.pdfQuoted from zaphX:I can break it down simply
This is amazing!
Guess who just copied/pasted your list and will print (and maybe laminate) a copy?
Willy Wonka - GOLDEN TICKET SUMMARY.pdfQuoted from billsfanmd:My bad... you said they got Wonka CE's
In yellow? I repeat...wat?
Quoted from zaphX:In yellow? I repeat...wat?
It was about the 8 min
Quoted from zaphX:In yellow? I repeat...wat?
It was late I was tired I re listened about 9 min mark. You said your good friend "yellow" bird
Quoted from zaphX:I can break it down simply.
Kid Multiball Ticket:
1. Qualify kids: (Agustus: spinners, MikeTV: blue shots under TV, Violet: GUM targets, Charlie: Start Fizzy Lifting, Veruca: Start Good/Bad Egg
2. Collect kids: Captive ball (note flashing color moves from captive to kid shot)
3. Start Kid MB: kid shot
4. Collect 7 Kid MB jackpots: Agustus: Loops, MikeTV: blue shot under TV, Violet: GUM targets, Charlie: right ramp, Veruca: left ramp. Double: Camera ramp. Super: Kid shot.
Gobstopper Ticket:
1. Hit gobstopper until it opens, lock ball. Repeat 3x.
2. In Gobstopper MB, shoot ramps until hole opens, sink ball in hole. Repeat to 5 to get ticket.
Factory Ticket:
1. Qualify modes. Blue: Factory (WONKA), Pink: Loops (SuperX), Orange: Captive ball.
2. Start modes at saucer. Repeat to start all 12 for ticket.
Wonkavator Ticket:
1. SuperLock to lock 3 balls.
2. Level 1: Shoot blue/yellow shots until gobstopper machine flashing, hit and sink all active balls but one.
2. Level 2: Same as level 1 but you can only hit each blue/yellow shot once. Finish for ticket.
Hey. Where on the screen does it show you your Wonkavator Ticket progress?? As in Level 1, 2 and so on??
Thank you
Quoted from kempsuk:Hey. Where on the screen does it show you your Wonkavator Ticket progress?? As in Level 1, 2 and so on??
Thank you
It shows on the mini screen how many jackpots remain and what level you're on, but only during a Wonkavator MB.
Progress toward starting Wonkavator is indicated by the elevator doors on the big screen.
Quoted from ktcoady12:zaphX thank you for this- I have had WW for 4 months and I am still trying to figure out the rules!
It took me a lot longer, don't feel bad
Ok my LE lost it’s mind last night......on my fourth or fifth game it lost track of a ball in the saucer. No big deal, shut game off, go to bed, simple adjustment tomorrow.
It’s now in bizarro world. In lane switches set off pop bumpers, upper loop switch sets off a sling, multiple switch errors. Auto launcher fires randomly at startup 10 or 11 times, shooter lane switch doesn’t register. I think a board fried.......anyone seen anything like this before?
370320CF-14AC-4A57-8BAD-B27F1DAF253C (resized).jpegE7255E52-D2AF-4F3D-B636-8B9F83FF395A (resized).jpegQuoted from PinballHaven:Ok my LE lost it’s mind last night......on my fourth or fifth game it lost track of a ball in the saucer. No big deal, shut game off, go to bed, simple adjustment tomorrow.
It’s now in bizarro world. In lane switches set off pop bumpers, upper loop switch sets off a sling, multiple switch errors. Auto launcher fires randomly at startup 10 or 11 times, shooter lane switch doesn’t register. I think a board fried.......anyone seen anything like this before?[quoted image][quoted image]
Most likely one of two things:
1. A connector is not well seated into the driver board behind the LCD
2. A ground wire broke off one of those targets in the list and needs to be resoldered.
Quoted from zaphX:Most likely one of two things:
1. A connector is not well seated into the driver board behind the LCD
2. A ground wire broke off one of those targets in the list and needs to be resoldered.
I checked the ground wires, that was my first thought, and all connectors in the general vicinity of the red problem row. Will check back box, just strange it happened mid game after a few games played and now things seem seriously “cross-wired” it’s just nuts how wacky it’s acting. They usually don’t register (open, not closed) when a ground breaks off I think?
Quoted from PinballHaven:Will check back box,
I/O board - be sure J200 is on tight. Then follow the white wire with green stripe, see if it broke off a switch somewhere on the switches on that row. That would get rid of most of your issues.
LTG : )
Quoted from zh2oson:This is amazing!
Guess who just copied/pasted your list and will print (and maybe laminate) a copy?
[quoted image]
If it's getting laminated here's the correct spellings of Augustus Gloop and Mike Teavee!
Quoted from PinballHaven:Ok my LE lost it’s mind last night......on my fourth or fifth game it lost track of a ball in the saucer. No big deal, shut game off, go to bed, simple adjustment tomorrow.
It’s now in bizarro world. In lane switches set off pop bumpers, upper loop switch sets off a sling, multiple switch errors. Auto launcher fires randomly at startup 10 or 11 times, shooter lane switch doesn’t register. I think a board fried.......anyone seen anything like this before?[quoted image][quoted image]
Something very similar happened to me once on wizard of oz. One of my light/IO/logic boards(or whatever they are called) under the outlane TOTO rollovers came loose from its adhesive and was shorting out on a screw head. If the above suggestions don't do the trick, maybe it's something like that happening and something came loose and dropped on to a piece of metal and is shorting out causing the chaos.
r/
Mike
For those who owned Wonka for long time how do the plastic ramps hold up? Do they wear down or as long as you keep cleaning them they will continue to look fairly new?
I'm trying to determine spare parts to buy. Any suggestions would be nice (if needed).
Quoted from zermeno68:For those who owned Wonka for long time how do the plastic ramps hold up? Do they wear down or as long as you keep cleaning them they will continue to look fairly new?
I'm trying to determine spare parts to buy. Any suggestions would be nice (if needed).
Well I've got over 12K plays on them and they look ok to me. That said, I wouldn't mind having spares for the inevitable rebuild one day.
Quoted from zermeno68:For those who owned Wonka for long time how do the plastic ramps hold up? Do they wear down or as long as you keep cleaning them they will continue to look fairly new?
I'm trying to determine spare parts to buy. Any suggestions would be nice (if needed).
You can flame polish ramps pretty easily as well when the time comes.
Here's a quick video.
r/
Mike
Quoted from LTG:I/O board - be sure J200 is on tight. Then follow the white wire with green stripe, see if it broke off a switch somewhere on the switches on that row. That would get rid of most of your issues.
LTG : )
All ground wires are connected and J200 is reseated, same behavior. It truly is looking like things are 'cross-wired' as if switches map to different logic points. The launcher firing at startup seems to indicate there is a ball in the shooter when there is not.
Putting it in test mode, I can activate the ball trough jam opto with a screwdriver, and then the switches pictured above change from red to green but still don't work, yet some switches when activated trigger the wrong coil / response. Outlanes triggering pops or slings, etc. as I mentioned before. Put myself into beta code group and got that update but it didn't change anything
Quoted from mikepmcs:Something very similar happened to me once on wizard of oz. One of my light/IO/logic boards(or whatever they are called) under the outlane TOTO rollovers came loose from its adhesive and was shorting out on a screw head. If the above suggestions don't do the trick, maybe it's something like that happening and something came loose and dropped on to a piece of metal and is shorting out causing the chaos.
r/
Mike
I wasn't able to find any loose screws or parts generally speaking. The lock mech that releases balls from the secret machine had some loose screws behind the backboard, and one missing screw on the coil mount, but that may have been gone for awhile (hard to say) it's not in the cabinet anywhere and I don't see where it could fall and short out a board.
Going to try a software reload..........then call JJP I guess. 10/21 build hopefully they can help figure this out easily and cheaply
Quoted from zermeno68:Yes it is. They have the game rules in a single pdf. Perfect to put on a thumb drive or send it to your local printer company.
FYI, it was not cheap. Blow up poster size was $21 and lamination was $13. Hopefully your area is priced better.
However, I really need this to keep as a reference.
Im going to get them about placemat size, get them laminated, and then replace the placemats currently on the dining table with these! Now during dinner every night family can study the rules too!
Quoted from Gavino:If it's getting laminated here's the correct spellings of Augustus Gloop and Mike Teavee!
Not with decalls which there are a lot!
Quoted from mikepmcs:You can flame polish ramps pretty easily as well when the time comes.
Here's a quick video.
r/
Mike
I was watching some videos on Wonka and noticed on some games the inserts in front of the gobstopper says BIG POINTS on it. Does yours say it? Mine does not.
Quoted from JohnTTwo:I was watching some videos on Wonka and noticed on some games the inserts in front of the gobstopper says BIG POINTS on it. Does yours say it? Mine does not.
Prototypes have it, production games do not.
My gobstopper target is not responding.I tried pushing the target but it doesn't do anything.
Any idea how to fix that ?
Quoted from adol75:My gobstopper target is not responding.Ibttied pushing the target but it doesn't do anything.
Any idea how to fix that ?
Post 5890 is one post with ideas.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Post 5890 is one post with ideas.
LTG : )
Thanks Lloyd, I see where the switch is now and between the zaphx e-tape trick and the video I know how to fix it. I didn't know the thing that looks like a roller was the actual switch.
#bringltgback
The ball on the right ramp has tendency to fly out.
The plastic to prevent this (see somewhere in this group) is , i have to say ,very ugly.
Used some steel thread (was already white) with red small tape.
I’m trying this now. Looks like it works.
0AEE4083-B5F1-4257-A316-B53D9AD952DE (resized).jpeg58D06889-D12D-44CB-90FA-FD6CEDACE67F (resized).jpeg
What's the quick-and-dirty solution to my kickback not firing? It'll (maybe) work one out of 10 times.
Quoted from zh2oson:What's the quick-and-dirty solution to my kickback not firing? It'll (maybe) work one out of 10 times.
Is it not firing at all or is the timing just not right?
Quoted from JvdS:Right ramp has tendency to launch ball.
The plastic to prevent this (see somewhere in this group) is i have to say very ugly.
Used some steel thread (already white) with red small tape.
I’m trying this now. Works great!
[quoted image][quoted image]
If the clever string solution doesn't work, jjp has a cover for that ramp.
Quoted from crobby:Is it not firing at all or is the timing just not right?
Good question. I believe it is a timing issue because it will fire occasionally.
I know… but its so ugly….(made one out of plastic with their template).
Quoted from crobby:If the clever string solution doesn't work, jjp has a cover for that ramp.
Quoted from zh2oson:What's the quick-and-dirty solution to my kickback not firing? It'll (maybe) work one out of 10 times.
Take off the apron, and make sure that the kickback solenoid is properly aligned. Several people have had them miss-aligned, causing most balls to make it past.
Quoted from JvdS:I know… but its so ugly….(made one out of plastic with their template).
I agree. I'm rooting for your solution to work great!!!
Quoted from zh2oson:Good question. I believe it is a timing issue because it will fire occasionally.
As suggested, take a look at the alignment first, but beyond that, it could be the rollover switch (if it's not triggering properly when a ball rolls over it---not with your fingers--it might need adjusting), could also be the timing itself, which is configurable in the settings somewhere. Good luck!
Quoted from JvdS:The ball on the right ramp has tendency to fly out.
The plastic to prevent this (see somewhere in this group) is , i have to say ,very ugly.
Used some steel thread (was already white) with red small tape.
I’m trying this now. Looks like it works.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice try, very creative I personally don't mind the JJP clear one, but your question made me remember seeing this clear plastic alternative ... it looks like it covers JUST enough to keep the ball from flying out from the first turn, just an option to consider.
https://pu-parts.com/willy-wonka-ramp-plastic
6C7FFE5E-6660-4D39-8A7F-6F159B500FFE (resized).pngQuoted from seenev:What are the best art blades for this game?
I have the pingraffix Holografix ones and I'm pretty happy
Quoted from seenev:What are the best art blades for this game?
I really like the mirror blades in mine. They add depth and brightness to the game.
Quoted from zh2oson:What's the quick-and-dirty solution to my kickback not firing? It'll (maybe) work one out of 10 times.
As others have said, check the alignment first. Then check and make sure it has a coil sleeve!! Finally had some time today to troubleshoot mine. Couldn’t figure out how my Dialed In was working perfectly but my Wonka kickback sucked. No matter what timing or strength I had in the menu settings. Then I watched it closely several times with the glass off manually rolling a ball. Seemed wiggly. Upon further inspection there was NO COIL SLEEVE! This is a brand new game with a 12/2021 build. I am the original owner and toon delivery a few months ago. Brand new in box.
After adding the coil sleeve that was supposed to be there, it now works perfect!
Quoted from zh2oson:Good question. I believe it is a timing issue because it will fire occasionally.
To be specific: If it's FIRING occasionally, that's likely a switch issue. If it's always firing but not doing the job of saving the ball, that's likely a coil/timing issue. Like others have said, IF that's the case take the apron off and look. Mine was pretty crooked, but I couldn't tell when playing/testing with the apron on. If the ball is rolling over the switch and occasionally nothing happens, check/adjust your switch.
Has anyone installed the Tilt graphics factory blades? Are they good? They look kind of washed out in the photos.
Quoted from seenev:Has anyone installed the Tilt graphics factory blades? Are they good? They look kind of washed out in the photos.
I have them and they are great. I have these. https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/willy-wonka-gameblades
Id be more concerned with Pingraffixs quality these days than Tilts...
Quoted from seenev:Has anyone installed the Tilt graphics factory blades? Are they good? They look kind of washed out in the photos.
I have these... they look great!
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/jjp-willy-wonka-pinblades-holograffix
Is there a consensus on the best way to improve the sound on Wonka? The stock speakers sound pretty bad, especially the movie quotes. Pinwoofer? Flipper Fidelity?
Which is best for bass and clarity? I’m especially hoping to make the Wonka callouts much easier to hear.
Thanks!
Quoted from Pinkitten:Is there a consensus on the best way to improve the sound on Wonka? The stock speakers sound pretty bad, especially the movie quotes. Pinwoofer? Flipper Fidelity?
Which is best for bass and clarity? I’m especially hoping to make the Wonka callouts much easier to hear.
Thanks!
If you already have an external sub then for $35 the Pinsub adapter made an amazing difference for me - instantly went from thin sound to full, well rounded sound with loads more bass. If you don’t have an ex sub then just up to you how much money/which way you wana go.
Quoted from ArcadeBar:If you already have an external sub then for $35 the Pinsub adapter made an amazing difference for me - instantly went from thin sound to full, well rounded sound with loads more bass. If you don’t have an ex sub then just up to you how much money/which way you wana go.
That adapter is likely a low pass filter. It makes sense since the subwoofer gets the full signal without it, which polluted the bass but you don't need to spend 35$ on it, a low pass filter costs 10$, 5 if you get a diy kit, it's just a bunch of resistors.
Quoted from ArcadeBar:If you already have an external sub then for $35 the Pinsub adapter made an amazing difference for me - instantly went from thin sound to full, well rounded sound with loads more bass. If you don’t have an ex sub then just up to you how much money/which way you wana go.
Quoted from adol75:That adapter is likely a low pass filter. It makes sense since the subwoofer gets the full signal without it, which polluted the bass but you don't need to spend 35$ on it, a low pass filter costs 10$, 5 if you get a diy kit, it's just a bunch of resistors.
Thanks. I do have an extra Polk sub I can attach to my Wonka. I wasn’t sure if that was enough to fix the thin, muffled audio or not. If people have tried both an external sub and Pinwoofer, I’d be curious which sounded best.
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