(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

4 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 13,878 posts
  • 673 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 minutes ago by Dr-pin
  • Topic is favorited by 257 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 132 votes
    24%
  • Limited Edition 286 votes
    53%
  • Collectors Edition 123 votes
    23%

(541 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 13,878 posts in this topic. You are on page 237 of 278.
#11801 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I can break it down simply

This is amazing!

Guess who just copied/pasted your list and will print (and maybe laminate) a copy?

Willy Wonka - GOLDEN TICKET SUMMARY.pdfWilly Wonka - GOLDEN TICKET SUMMARY.pdf
#11802 1 year ago

My bad... you said they got Wonka CE's

#11803 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

My bad... you said they got Wonka CE's

In yellow? I repeat...wat?

#11804 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

In yellow? I repeat...wat?

It was about the 8 min

Quoted from zaphX:

In yellow? I repeat...wat?

It was late I was tired I re listened about 9 min mark. You said your good friend "yellow" bird

#11805 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

I can break it down simply.
Kid Multiball Ticket:
1. Qualify kids: (Agustus: spinners, MikeTV: blue shots under TV, Violet: GUM targets, Charlie: Start Fizzy Lifting, Veruca: Start Good/Bad Egg
2. Collect kids: Captive ball (note flashing color moves from captive to kid shot)
3. Start Kid MB: kid shot
4. Collect 7 Kid MB jackpots: Agustus: Loops, MikeTV: blue shot under TV, Violet: GUM targets, Charlie: right ramp, Veruca: left ramp. Double: Camera ramp. Super: Kid shot.
Gobstopper Ticket:
1. Hit gobstopper until it opens, lock ball. Repeat 3x.
2. In Gobstopper MB, shoot ramps until hole opens, sink ball in hole. Repeat to 5 to get ticket.
Factory Ticket:
1. Qualify modes. Blue: Factory (WONKA), Pink: Loops (SuperX), Orange: Captive ball.
2. Start modes at saucer. Repeat to start all 12 for ticket.
Wonkavator Ticket:
1. SuperLock to lock 3 balls.
2. Level 1: Shoot blue/yellow shots until gobstopper machine flashing, hit and sink all active balls but one.
2. Level 2: Same as level 1 but you can only hit each blue/yellow shot once. Finish for ticket.

Hey. Where on the screen does it show you your Wonkavator Ticket progress?? As in Level 1, 2 and so on??
Thank you

#11806 1 year ago
Quoted from kempsuk:

Hey. Where on the screen does it show you your Wonkavator Ticket progress?? As in Level 1, 2 and so on??
Thank you

It shows on the mini screen how many jackpots remain and what level you're on, but only during a Wonkavator MB.

Progress toward starting Wonkavator is indicated by the elevator doors on the big screen.

#11807 1 year ago

zaphX thank you for this- I have had WW for 4 months and I am still trying to figure out the rules!

#11808 1 year ago
Quoted from ktcoady12:

zaphX thank you for this- I have had WW for 4 months and I am still trying to figure out the rules!

It took me a lot longer, don't feel bad

#11809 1 year ago

Reminds me of TZ. No one knew what do until you could bring it In your home arcade and really break down the rules.

#11810 1 year ago

Ok my LE lost it’s mind last night......on my fourth or fifth game it lost track of a ball in the saucer. No big deal, shut game off, go to bed, simple adjustment tomorrow.

It’s now in bizarro world. In lane switches set off pop bumpers, upper loop switch sets off a sling, multiple switch errors. Auto launcher fires randomly at startup 10 or 11 times, shooter lane switch doesn’t register. I think a board fried.......anyone seen anything like this before?

370320CF-14AC-4A57-8BAD-B27F1DAF253C (resized).jpeg370320CF-14AC-4A57-8BAD-B27F1DAF253C (resized).jpegE7255E52-D2AF-4F3D-B636-8B9F83FF395A (resized).jpegE7255E52-D2AF-4F3D-B636-8B9F83FF395A (resized).jpeg
#11811 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Ok my LE lost it’s mind last night......on my fourth or fifth game it lost track of a ball in the saucer. No big deal, shut game off, go to bed, simple adjustment tomorrow.
It’s now in bizarro world. In lane switches set off pop bumpers, upper loop switch sets off a sling, multiple switch errors. Auto launcher fires randomly at startup 10 or 11 times, shooter lane switch doesn’t register. I think a board fried.......anyone seen anything like this before?[quoted image][quoted image]

Most likely one of two things:

1. A connector is not well seated into the driver board behind the LCD
2. A ground wire broke off one of those targets in the list and needs to be resoldered.

#11812 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Most likely one of two things:
1. A connector is not well seated into the driver board behind the LCD
2. A ground wire broke off one of those targets in the list and needs to be resoldered.

I checked the ground wires, that was my first thought, and all connectors in the general vicinity of the red problem row. Will check back box, just strange it happened mid game after a few games played and now things seem seriously “cross-wired” it’s just nuts how wacky it’s acting. They usually don’t register (open, not closed) when a ground breaks off I think?

#11813 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Will check back box,

I/O board - be sure J200 is on tight. Then follow the white wire with green stripe, see if it broke off a switch somewhere on the switches on that row. That would get rid of most of your issues.

LTG : )

#11814 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

This is amazing!
Guess who just copied/pasted your list and will print (and maybe laminate) a copy?
[quoted image]

If it's getting laminated here's the correct spellings of Augustus Gloop and Mike Teavee!

#11815 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballHaven:

Ok my LE lost it’s mind last night......on my fourth or fifth game it lost track of a ball in the saucer. No big deal, shut game off, go to bed, simple adjustment tomorrow.
It’s now in bizarro world. In lane switches set off pop bumpers, upper loop switch sets off a sling, multiple switch errors. Auto launcher fires randomly at startup 10 or 11 times, shooter lane switch doesn’t register. I think a board fried.......anyone seen anything like this before?[quoted image][quoted image]

Something very similar happened to me once on wizard of oz. One of my light/IO/logic boards(or whatever they are called) under the outlane TOTO rollovers came loose from its adhesive and was shorting out on a screw head. If the above suggestions don't do the trick, maybe it's something like that happening and something came loose and dropped on to a piece of metal and is shorting out causing the chaos.
r/
Mike

#11816 1 year ago

For those who owned Wonka for long time how do the plastic ramps hold up? Do they wear down or as long as you keep cleaning them they will continue to look fairly new?

I'm trying to determine spare parts to buy. Any suggestions would be nice (if needed).

#11817 1 year ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

For those who owned Wonka for long time how do the plastic ramps hold up? Do they wear down or as long as you keep cleaning them they will continue to look fairly new?
I'm trying to determine spare parts to buy. Any suggestions would be nice (if needed).

Well I've got over 12K plays on them and they look ok to me. That said, I wouldn't mind having spares for the inevitable rebuild one day.

#11818 1 year ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

For those who owned Wonka for long time how do the plastic ramps hold up? Do they wear down or as long as you keep cleaning them they will continue to look fairly new?
I'm trying to determine spare parts to buy. Any suggestions would be nice (if needed).

You can flame polish ramps pretty easily as well when the time comes.
Here's a quick video.
r/
Mike

#11819 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

I/O board - be sure J200 is on tight. Then follow the white wire with green stripe, see if it broke off a switch somewhere on the switches on that row. That would get rid of most of your issues.
LTG : )

All ground wires are connected and J200 is reseated, same behavior. It truly is looking like things are 'cross-wired' as if switches map to different logic points. The launcher firing at startup seems to indicate there is a ball in the shooter when there is not.

Putting it in test mode, I can activate the ball trough jam opto with a screwdriver, and then the switches pictured above change from red to green but still don't work, yet some switches when activated trigger the wrong coil / response. Outlanes triggering pops or slings, etc. as I mentioned before. Put myself into beta code group and got that update but it didn't change anything

Quoted from mikepmcs:

Something very similar happened to me once on wizard of oz. One of my light/IO/logic boards(or whatever they are called) under the outlane TOTO rollovers came loose from its adhesive and was shorting out on a screw head. If the above suggestions don't do the trick, maybe it's something like that happening and something came loose and dropped on to a piece of metal and is shorting out causing the chaos.
r/
Mike

I wasn't able to find any loose screws or parts generally speaking. The lock mech that releases balls from the secret machine had some loose screws behind the backboard, and one missing screw on the coil mount, but that may have been gone for awhile (hard to say) it's not in the cabinet anywhere and I don't see where it could fall and short out a board.

Going to try a software reload..........then call JJP I guess. 10/21 build hopefully they can help figure this out easily and cheaply

#11820 1 year ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

Yes it is. They have the game rules in a single pdf. Perfect to put on a thumb drive or send it to your local printer company.
FYI, it was not cheap. Blow up poster size was $21 and lamination was $13. Hopefully your area is priced better.
However, I really need this to keep as a reference.

Im going to get them about placemat size, get them laminated, and then replace the placemats currently on the dining table with these! Now during dinner every night family can study the rules too!

#11821 1 year ago
Quoted from Gavino:

If it's getting laminated here's the correct spellings of Augustus Gloop and Mike Teavee!

bump.gifbump.gif

Willy Wonka - GOLDEN TICKET SUMMARY.pdfWilly Wonka - GOLDEN TICKET SUMMARY.pdf

#11822 1 year ago

Not with decalls which there are a lot!

Quoted from mikepmcs:

You can flame polish ramps pretty easily as well when the time comes.
Here's a quick video.
r/
Mike

#11823 1 year ago

I was watching some videos on Wonka and noticed on some games the inserts in front of the gobstopper says BIG POINTS on it. Does yours say it? Mine does not.

#11824 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnTTwo:

I was watching some videos on Wonka and noticed on some games the inserts in front of the gobstopper says BIG POINTS on it. Does yours say it? Mine does not.

Prototypes have it, production games do not.

#11825 1 year ago

My gobstopper target is not responding.I tried pushing the target but it doesn't do anything.

Any idea how to fix that ?

#11826 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

My gobstopper target is not responding.Ibttied pushing the target but it doesn't do anything.

Any idea how to fix that ?

Post 5890 is one post with ideas.

LTG : )

#11827 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Post 5890 is one post with ideas.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, I see where the switch is now and between the zaphx e-tape trick and the video I know how to fix it. I didn't know the thing that looks like a roller was the actual switch.

#bringltgback

#11828 1 year ago

The ball on the right ramp has tendency to fly out.
The plastic to prevent this (see somewhere in this group) is , i have to say ,very ugly.
Used some steel thread (was already white) with red small tape.
I’m trying this now. Looks like it works.

0AEE4083-B5F1-4257-A316-B53D9AD952DE (resized).jpeg0AEE4083-B5F1-4257-A316-B53D9AD952DE (resized).jpeg58D06889-D12D-44CB-90FA-FD6CEDACE67F (resized).jpeg58D06889-D12D-44CB-90FA-FD6CEDACE67F (resized).jpeg

#11829 1 year ago

What's the quick-and-dirty solution to my kickback not firing? It'll (maybe) work one out of 10 times.

#11830 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

What's the quick-and-dirty solution to my kickback not firing? It'll (maybe) work one out of 10 times.

Is it not firing at all or is the timing just not right?

#11831 1 year ago
Quoted from JvdS:

Right ramp has tendency to launch ball.
The plastic to prevent this (see somewhere in this group) is i have to say very ugly.
Used some steel thread (already white) with red small tape.
I’m trying this now. Works great!
[quoted image][quoted image]

If the clever string solution doesn't work, jjp has a cover for that ramp.

#11832 1 year ago
Quoted from crobby:

Is it not firing at all or is the timing just not right?

Good question. I believe it is a timing issue because it will fire occasionally.

#11833 1 year ago

I know… but its so ugly….(made one out of plastic with their template).

Quoted from crobby:

If the clever string solution doesn't work, jjp has a cover for that ramp.

#11834 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

What's the quick-and-dirty solution to my kickback not firing? It'll (maybe) work one out of 10 times.

Take off the apron, and make sure that the kickback solenoid is properly aligned. Several people have had them miss-aligned, causing most balls to make it past.

#11835 1 year ago
Quoted from JvdS:

I know… but its so ugly….(made one out of plastic with their template).

I agree. I'm rooting for your solution to work great!!!

#11836 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

Good question. I believe it is a timing issue because it will fire occasionally.

As suggested, take a look at the alignment first, but beyond that, it could be the rollover switch (if it's not triggering properly when a ball rolls over it---not with your fingers--it might need adjusting), could also be the timing itself, which is configurable in the settings somewhere. Good luck!

#11837 1 year ago
Quoted from JvdS:

The ball on the right ramp has tendency to fly out.
The plastic to prevent this (see somewhere in this group) is , i have to say ,very ugly.
Used some steel thread (was already white) with red small tape.
I’m trying this now. Looks like it works.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice try, very creative I personally don't mind the JJP clear one, but your question made me remember seeing this clear plastic alternative ... it looks like it covers JUST enough to keep the ball from flying out from the first turn, just an option to consider.

https://pu-parts.com/willy-wonka-ramp-plastic

6C7FFE5E-6660-4D39-8A7F-6F159B500FFE (resized).png6C7FFE5E-6660-4D39-8A7F-6F159B500FFE (resized).png
#11838 1 year ago

What are the best art blades for this game?

#11839 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

What are the best art blades for this game?

I have the pingraffix Holografix ones and I'm pretty happy

#11840 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

What are the best art blades for this game?

I really like the mirror blades in mine. They add depth and brightness to the game.

#11841 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

What's the quick-and-dirty solution to my kickback not firing? It'll (maybe) work one out of 10 times.

As others have said, check the alignment first. Then check and make sure it has a coil sleeve!! Finally had some time today to troubleshoot mine. Couldn’t figure out how my Dialed In was working perfectly but my Wonka kickback sucked. No matter what timing or strength I had in the menu settings. Then I watched it closely several times with the glass off manually rolling a ball. Seemed wiggly. Upon further inspection there was NO COIL SLEEVE! This is a brand new game with a 12/2021 build. I am the original owner and toon delivery a few months ago. Brand new in box.

After adding the coil sleeve that was supposed to be there, it now works perfect!

#11842 1 year ago
Quoted from zh2oson:

Good question. I believe it is a timing issue because it will fire occasionally.

To be specific: If it's FIRING occasionally, that's likely a switch issue. If it's always firing but not doing the job of saving the ball, that's likely a coil/timing issue. Like others have said, IF that's the case take the apron off and look. Mine was pretty crooked, but I couldn't tell when playing/testing with the apron on. If the ball is rolling over the switch and occasionally nothing happens, check/adjust your switch.

#11843 1 year ago

Has anyone installed the Tilt graphics factory blades? Are they good? They look kind of washed out in the photos.

#11844 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

Has anyone installed the Tilt graphics factory blades? Are they good? They look kind of washed out in the photos.

I have them and they are great. I have these. https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/willy-wonka-gameblades

Id be more concerned with Pingraffixs quality these days than Tilts...

#11845 1 year ago
Quoted from seenev:

Has anyone installed the Tilt graphics factory blades? Are they good? They look kind of washed out in the photos.

I have these... they look great!
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/jjp-willy-wonka-pinblades-holograffix

#11846 1 year ago

Is there a consensus on the best way to improve the sound on Wonka? The stock speakers sound pretty bad, especially the movie quotes. Pinwoofer? Flipper Fidelity?
Which is best for bass and clarity? I’m especially hoping to make the Wonka callouts much easier to hear.

Thanks!

#11847 1 year ago

So seems like everyday I am stuck here!!!

Vader evader!!! Need me some pure imagination! ASAP!

F8A8425C-ED89-43E7-AC73-724BCFA7DC6F (resized).jpegF8A8425C-ED89-43E7-AC73-724BCFA7DC6F (resized).jpeg
#11848 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Is there a consensus on the best way to improve the sound on Wonka? The stock speakers sound pretty bad, especially the movie quotes. Pinwoofer? Flipper Fidelity?
Which is best for bass and clarity? I’m especially hoping to make the Wonka callouts much easier to hear.
Thanks!

If you already have an external sub then for $35 the Pinsub adapter made an amazing difference for me - instantly went from thin sound to full, well rounded sound with loads more bass. If you don’t have an ex sub then just up to you how much money/which way you wana go.

#11849 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

If you already have an external sub then for $35 the Pinsub adapter made an amazing difference for me - instantly went from thin sound to full, well rounded sound with loads more bass. If you don’t have an ex sub then just up to you how much money/which way you wana go.

That adapter is likely a low pass filter. It makes sense since the subwoofer gets the full signal without it, which polluted the bass but you don't need to spend 35$ on it, a low pass filter costs 10$, 5 if you get a diy kit, it's just a bunch of resistors.

#11850 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

If you already have an external sub then for $35 the Pinsub adapter made an amazing difference for me - instantly went from thin sound to full, well rounded sound with loads more bass. If you don’t have an ex sub then just up to you how much money/which way you wana go.

Quoted from adol75:

That adapter is likely a low pass filter. It makes sense since the subwoofer gets the full signal without it, which polluted the bass but you don't need to spend 35$ on it, a low pass filter costs 10$, 5 if you get a diy kit, it's just a bunch of resistors.

Thanks. I do have an extra Polk sub I can attach to my Wonka. I wasn’t sure if that was enough to fix the thin, muffled audio or not. If people have tried both an external sub and Pinwoofer, I’d be curious which sounded best.

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