Mine was built at the tail end of November '21. I originally tried it with the typical rubber on both posts - it worked the majority of the time, but was very slightly ball grabby and did eventually cause the ball to fully catch there once after a dozen or so games. I switched the inlane post to a piece of clear rubber tubing I had laying around (I think originally intended as spring/spacer when installing stratocaster pickups?), and this has been working nicely for me.

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I have a early build and I have a friend with a new build. Something has definitely changed, I've installed his post and the exact same post rubbers that work on mine (from my supply) don't work on his, the new game cannot have any rubber on the middle lanes post if the outlane post is installed. Just an observation, it's not a big deal and simple fix to remove the middle post rubber if you want an outlane post.

This has been a constant issue with my brand new build 12/2021. Just received it 2 weeks ago. Spoke with Ken at JJP who is awesome and he said to bend it slightly so it stays under the gobstopper part. It works for a few games, but the switch on these micro switches are memory metal so they slowly go back. Now the switch is completely dead and no way to activate the gobstopper. Once powered on I get the alert. Manually adjusting the switch I can hear the clicking just fine however it still shows stuck open on alerts. So if your switch is constantly getting hit when it gets stuck while playing it will fail pretty quick.

I literally just sent Ken an email an hour ago along with filling out the form on JJP website.

Unfortunately there is no adjustment on the screws that hold the switch in place. It is where it is. My thought is to adhere a small thin piece of metal that maybe protrudes out the top of the gobstopper target so the switch can’t get stuck.

Frustrating common issue with a brand new game. It’ll get fixed but not until I get a replacement switch.

Anyone have a contact hum that comes from this box here (main transformer)? Even when the machine is off? Doesn't happen on my Hobbit. Thanks.

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I want to add lighting to Wonka and have both 12V and 5V LED strips. Which one should I use to tap into the GI and where is the best place to do this? The LED strips are 5050 ones and I have all the other stuff necessary except which LEDs to use and where to tap into.

Wonka CE - 1300 or so plays (95% me), 33M high score (yesterday!), no playfield issues, and my favorite game for quite some time (in a pretty stacked collection). Probably time for a little maintenance - right ramp switch doesn’t register every time (just a matter of bending the switch blade properly), saucer is starting to not recognize the ball (I’d say 5% of the time, anybody know if this is a real switch or opto?), and ball is hanging on left inlane switch (some bending should fix this). Can’t believe this game isn’t in the top 10 (or even top 5), I can’t get enough.

Also, noticing some odd behavior on my right ramp. With a really solid shot, sometimes it reverse direction right at the top and comes back at me, anybody seen that? Also tonight for the first time the ball jumped straight ahead on the right ramp, over the left curve and up near the upper right flipper. That’s new too.

SAucer: It's an opto on a small PCB, clean it with alcohol.
Left inlane: You need cliffys on the inlanes if you don't have them already. Repeated ball drops dent and damage the wood over time.

hi bros, i don't find anywhere information about gobstoppers on the center of the screnn, start game with 2, there is 5 slot for them but what is those significations?

To get one of the 5 golden tickets, you need to collect 5 gobstoppers. The default setting is to spot 2 at the beginning but that can be adjusted. A gobstopper is collected during gobstopper multiball...shoot the ramps X times and then the gobstopper hole opens up, hit that hole and get a gobstopper jackpot and a gobstopper will be collected and added to the screen. Repeat until you get all 5 to get the golden ticket. I believe the # of ramp shots increases for each gobstopper multiball started.

My game has a 12v tap off the power supply for my added lighting, that is the best route for JJP games in my opinion but it won’t be GI reactive.

I find it very strange that JJP says the fix is just to leave it as bare metal. I find it extremely rare to see a bare metal post in a game.

On mine, with the stock factory setup of post and rubber between the inlanes, I will have the ball stick when going down the outside inlane if it is rolling slowly. Flipping the left flipper will move it along. When I put the outlane post in and have rubber on it, there is no way a ball will go down at all.
So, I'm in the can only have rubber on one post group.
Also, I can't for the life of me get the plastic cover off the one outlane post hole. Any suggestions?

............or remove outlane post, and you have bare metal there. It's not that uncommon, Deadpool is one modern example. There are many-

Neither of my Wonkas shipped that way. Both had a rubber on that post. And it's critical to nudging the ball out of the danger zone there.

Same here and agreed!

Played my first games on my new LE yesterday!

A couple questions. Are there any typical settings changes I should make? I know some games have a few that are widely considered wise to be done by almost anyone. Or perhaps anything that's just interesting to consider.

Secondly, when I went to take the glass off, both of these screws were up so high I couldn't. I put them in enough to get the glass off, but can someone validate they should be in all the way?

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Those screws adjust the lockdown bar tightness..

For me to get that plastic cover off, I lifted and slid the playfield out of the game to the 2nd balance point on the service bars. I was then able to tap a smaller screwdriver from under the playfield to raise up that black cover.

Hi all - about 3 weeks into my WW LE ownership- I have noticed two issues so far, my kickback being one- every so often the kickback misses- as in does not kick the ball back, it goes back into the shooter laner= The other is my gobstopper switch- from time to time on startup I get an error message regarding my gobstopper switch, but it seems to function ok? I have my machine leveled at 6.5 and is even side to side-

Those screws will affect how secure the lockdown bar is to the cabinet. The further they are down the more secure the lockdown bar will be. My LE had the screws up way too high as well and I ended lowering them a good amount to have the lockdown bar secure. It’s a good idea to lower them a bit as you don’t want them to scratch the Invisiglass.

No kidding, right?? How Wonka is not in the Top 10 baffles me. This game is so addictive and fun!

thanks !

For the kickback, you can adjust timings in the settings. I had to do that also.

Sorry I cannot help with your other issue.

I've been having issues with the plunger spring progressively gets weaker as I play multiple games in a row. Sometimes is too weak to get out if the shooter lane. I had also changed the plunger tip to a titan rubber... maybe part of the issue?
The auto plung is fine.
Anyone else fine this issue?
Jjp sent me a new one and 15 games in and same issue.

I spray a little silicone spray on a a paper towel when my games get gummed up and clean the plunger that way, which seems to usually solve my issues with manual plunging. Just pill it back and wipe what you can reach.

Buy the spring assortment pack from any parts supplier and you can adjust the strength if you need to that way.

It's difficult and has complex, layered code. I guess it's too much for some.

The Pinside brigading when it launched didn't help. "It sounds like a slot machine" "It doesn't have audio on the video clips".

When I first got my Wonka 2 months ago, I was a little disappointed because it reminded me of candy crush... But I got over it and think it's a great game now.

Thank you Rager170 I will give that a go when I get home tonight-

Speaking of rules thank you for your Wonka tutorial on YouTube! My wife and I were watching it the other day, great and informative video. I love that Wonka has these 5 segmented objectives spread throughout the game, those being collecting the 5 Golden Tickets.

Unlocking modes and multiballs is a task in itself but having to collect all the tickets is a a whole ’nother layer of depth. Kid Multiball and the depth of that one mode are pretty crazy in a good way (wouldn't have understood it without your video). You can start Kid Multiball in 5 different states, having 1 kid qualified (or collected, another layer of depth) or up to 5. Then you need all 5 kids collected and then do well in the multiball to earn a Golden Ticket. Stuff like that is just awesome to see. Then you can toss in the strategy behind which modes to start with others which adds a lot of depth as well. Then add (yes there's more! lol) Wonkavator MB, Wonka's Office, Wonkatania, Oompa Loompa Odyssey, Wonka Bar Ransom, and the Pure Imagination super wizard mode. Damn there's a ton to do and unlock and it can all be done in different ways to blow up the game.

Hey thanks! I am glad it helped! I need to redo it for 2.0; the major rules are still the same but some of the nuances changed (for example, you don't lose collected kids now if you drain, and you can still make kid jackpot shots while the super is lit.)

It’s so cool that Wonka has become as loved as it is!I got mine very early and knew it was different and cool as hell.I think it took people awhile to get past the whole shitstorm early on with Kaneda and others who had never even played it.

I've really been enjoying playing this pin! The first thing that jumped out at me is the light show - the choice of colors and how they show up really is nice. I'm still learning a ton about the modes and how to make things happen, but I'm appreciating all the little touches and enjoying discovering things for the first time. So much fun!

Couple questions:
- Is there a setting that turns off the 'pop' when you get a high score? I thought I scrolled through everything but didn't come up with anything that looked right.
- Second, is there really any way to mitigate the pop bumpers sending the ball SDTM? Sometimes it flies out of there really fast and the ball drains, and I'm not sure I could have done much about it even if my reactions were much faster. Just part of this game?

Thanks!

Look back just a few posts for many issues regarding the gobstopper switch. It takes much adjusting on some games. Seems like these new ones that just got delivered (mine included) have issues with this switch. I’m waiting for a replacement switch at the moment. Coming up with a crude fix in the meantime so it doesn’t happen again. If it all works out I’ll post.

Look for "knocker" related settings for the loud pop you're referring to.

Part of the charm of this game is SDTM out of the pops. Some people have made some mods to help direct the ball leftward, but other than that I just try and avoid them when possible. Another thing to try is maybe turn down the pump bumper strength if that is a setting (I don't know offhand).

For the sdtm..... I replaced the small rubber ring on the left and the post rubber on the right exit with titan rubbers and now it spits the ball right to my right flipper

I wouldn't worry about modding the pops to prevent any SDTM balls. Just make sure you are 0.0 leveled on a digital level with a 6.5 pitch and it'll play perfect just like it was designed. Sometimes pinball is brutal, sometimes it's magical...that's all part of the fun.

I second this - It happens but I don’t have that many sdtm from the pops. At least not as frequent as a ball buster as people make it out to be.

Hi all.
I got my Willy Wonka LE yesterday and am happy to join the club. It's number 1111 which is a very significant number for me so it was meant to be
Near perfect; slight lifting of decal near the flipper button that looks to have been dislodged by siderail. Kickback's not working properly... the coil fires after the ball has drained so not sure what to do about that.

Hey all - had my WW for 2 months now and have been having an issue with the right ramp made sensor. Using the right flipper will cause the right ramp made to enable. I’ve tried re-routing that wire and it fixes the issue for a bit, then after a few games the vibrations will cause the right ramp made to be made every time I use the right flipper. I’ve tried securing that wire under the playfield without luck. Anybody have any issues like this? If the issue is happening, you’ll collect 100+ wonka bars because of this, causing high scores.

Thank you. I’ve had a cliffy since day one. Maybe it’s dinged up a little. This might be the one machine that I put the open end up on the slot protector, could be getting stuck on the cliffy!

There is a kickback timer setting. Change to a shorter amount of time after it hits the switch. I believe you can also have the game ball save if kickback fails. I know The Hobbit does.

Try aligning and tightening the opto sensor. I would do it while in switch test.

I had this too. The solution was to reseat the connector for that opto to where it plugs in to the opto board under the playfield. There was a post somewhere earlier in this thread that shows you which cable. Or you can look it up in the manual.

Anyone ever have their game just decide to end mid-game?

I had a kid multi ball going (and possibly gobstopper multi stacked), and then suddenly my flippers went dead, all the balls drained. As far as I recall, the screens weren't showing anything special, and definitely no Tilts shown onscreen, although it acted like it somehow activated the Tilt code. I didn't even have any tilt warnings, and my sensor is set at the easiest tilt setting, all the way down.

Fortunately it wasn't an amazing game, and I've not seen this happen before. I haven't updated the code in a few months, but I think it is the latest version as of late Dec.

Pull the apron off to check the alignment of the kicker. Someone a month or two ago had a similar problem, and the solenoid wasn't aligned properly and caused the problem.

Has anyone ever had two balls to into the gobble hole during multiball and had the system fail to find them? I was in the middle of a game and had to turn it off because the ball finder mode hit pretty much every coil except the return VUK.

hi boys, what is collected when hit captive ball when insert 1.2.3 or 4 is lit?

https://www.thisweekinpinball.com/willy-wonka-and-the-chocolate-factory-deep-dive-overview-rules-features-images-more/

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I was able to add light bars to my Willy Wonka and tap into the GI. The light strips reflect the same color as the GI as they are 5V RBG strips. Curious if anyone wants to see a video or instructions?

I had three balls (if I remember right) stuck in there once. I gave it a few minutes, and it self cleared. It does a quick spin, and then later a more thorough spin to get them out.