Would be helpful indeed. I appreciate people finding things out but these bare basics should really be communicated more effectively.

1. Do a full plunge or a hard right orbit shot and you'll experience it

2. The selected modes are not random and you can control which one(s) you will start:

- Shooting the factory ramp qualifies the blue factory mode. Shooting it when qualified will cycle through the modes before you start.
- Shooting the captive ball qualifies the orange mode. Shooting it when qualified will cycle through the modes before you start.
- Shooting the orbit toggles qualifies the pink SuperX mode. Shooting it when qualified will cycle through the superX modes before you start.

As for the "computer paper" modes, I believe those follow a set cycle.

Your golden tickets are:

- Kid MB (review my video for details on this, you must be mindful of which kids are active and what the kid jackpot shots are)
- Gobstopper MB
- Factory modes
- Wonkavator
- Gobstopper (a "gimme")

You can always visit instant info to check on your progress against each ticket.

I think that post has a nylon locking nut on the underside of the playfield. You need to raise the playfield and hold or twist that nut with a socket driver while holding or twisting the post on top at the same time. Sometimes it's enough to just hold the post with your fingers while twisting on the nut underneath, sometimes you may need to carefully grip the post with a plier or small crescent wrench (use a cloth to protect post if using pliers).

That seems true. You can also cycle the qualified computer mode by hitting the stand-up target immediately to the right of the camera ramp. This is good when you are needing that Super Lock for wonkavator!

#faceplam totally right with the nylon locking nut. Just looked and confirmed this. Thanks.

My LE Came with the headphones not working. I found it was slightly unplugged (not totally disconnected). Pushed it in and was all set.

I have never tried to fix it because it did not bother me and I never use them, but will give that a try. I have fun with guest on the volume saying up is down and down is up like Wonka wanted it.

thanks for sharing! I think I have used that to understand things better. Much appreciated!

About to order the Tibetan Breeze cooling fans for my GNRLE and wanted to know If anyone had them on there Wonka?

My headphone jack didn't work at all on a DI LE that I used to have.

Found out that the plug behind the jack had been connected upside down. Did a 180 on the plug and it worked fine!

Btw, I am a 3rd owner of an SE Wonka and saw the camera indicator / red light was out. Tried many ways to fix it, but ultimately realized it had been wired wrong from the factory presumably. Pulled a wire out and put it the right spot and now it works. Curious if mine was the only one.

Hmm... I'll have to start paying more attention because I haven't noticed the light working on my machine. I wonder if I have a similar issue. Unless it's very subtle, I think I would have noticed it turning on and off by now.

I haven't had any issues with the pops being brutal. If you have your game dialed in on pitch and level it does plays magical.

Ken at JJP responded to my ticket within 24 hours, suggested I check the connector under the playfield that runs the optos. Everything looked good, reseated the connector snugly, no change.

Mine never went SDTM from the pops until after a few hundred games. It's interesting how the game changed after it broke in. The upper left flipper shot changed, the pops changed, a lot of small things "fell into place" it seems. Not big changes, but noticeable differences.

Joining the club with a NIB LE! Now for the fun wait to see that truck pulling up in front of the house. Super excited for this one!

Congrats! You will love it, it is such a great game. I appreciate the design of this machine more than ever after playing for a year. Only minor "regret" is "just" getting an SE instead of LE or CE. But at the time even $7500 for a new SE seemed crazy expensive! But I love my SE. It is never leaving the house.

Me too! Mine is supposed to arrive on Tuesday, though shipments to my location seem to often be delayed. Compulsively refreshing the tracking page multiple times a day - it is at least in this state now

That's interesting. I figured it would be from over tightening. How do the washers prevent pooling if cause is posts getting loose? Maybe as someone asked pooling is just hidden under the washers. Sorry, I bet some of the long time WW owners are tired of this topic.

Just joined the club this week. WWLE # 1118, born date 12/21. Sitting right next to my GNR. Jersey Jacks pins are impressive. I added mirror blades and next week I'll be getting a few more mods.

IMG_3268 (resized).jpeg

I’m embarrassed I don’t know this as I have a lot of time and good scores on this game.

What qualifies super lock (I know there is a mode, maybe orange arrow at saucer from captive ball)? Anything else?

What causes the diverter on the middle/left ramp that blocks the ball and drops it to the upper left flipper? I’ve had a super lock lit and can’t intentionally get the ball to that flipper! I guess I need to know how!

Super lock is qualified in a few ways. One it’s one of the computer awards. Two it’s one of the captive ball mystery awards. Three every third factory mode you start will light super lock. On this last point, every three is what the game manual indicates however my WW came with this set to four, so I changed it to three.

On your second question. If super lock is lit, that will activate the diverter so you just need to hit the gobstopper or camera ramp. However if scumdiddlyumptious collection is lit (the hat lamp by gobstopper target) the diverter won’t activate. That is really annoying when trying to score super lock. So in that case you have to wait for the hat to unlite or collect it first.

Thank you! On the second question, what causes the diverter to drop the ball from the ramp when superlock is not lit?

Hey all! I joined the club last weekend as I have posted.

One of the previous owners of my Wonka had used, I’m assuming windex, on the invisaglass and left burnt in drip marks in the finish. Many markings all over the glass. I was determined to get it back to looking good.

I tried many experiments with different solutions. Today I gave a product we all have in our pinball tool box. Novus2!

Shazam! The novus2 totally made the etched in markings disappear. I am so pumped! Definitely didn’t want to buy another sheet of invisaglass.

I thought I would share this remedy with my fellow Pinsiders as I am sure there are others who have encountered this terrible result from using the wrong product to clean their Invisaglass.

You should start a thread and post this

Ah. It’s basically when there are any worthy shots for the upper left flipper qualified, like gum targets or something for the right loop. There’s a number of cases for that. Like say fizzy lifting drink room shot in the right loop or any other mode lit there. The yellow light by the upper left flipper will be lit when diverter is active.

It’s a bright red light atop the camera and comes on frequently (any time it takes your photo when hitting that ramp). Let me know if you need help on a fix, I actually just looked at the adjacent connectors near that one and realized mine looked different. I pulled the black wire from one hole and into another to fix it. Didn’t even solder or anything, it held well on its own.

Mine isn’t working… details would be appreciated!

I was considering it but you’re the only positive response I’ve gotten. LOL Everyone else thinks I’m an idiot and have just taken the finish off my glass. First of all it was already ruined IMO. What I have done has saved the glass. Truth be told, it did NOT take the finish off and I have saved myself from throwing away a really expensive piece of glass

I forgot about that in the movie! Before your post, Ransom was this rando mode that didn’t make sense.

But every last chipping on my G&R was because of post loosening.
Also, when I asked JJP for a torque specification the answer resembled there isnt one. Can be from that too, sure. But probably not for the factory that way.

Washers may 1) call for a longer screw for the post 2) help keep the factory spec “stable” longer. - meaning the problems shows after years 3) help distribute (soften) the movement enough for the bands to stretch enough preventing one root cause of the problem 4) a combo 5) something my dumb a$$ didnt think of in the 30 sec to think actuarially cross-referenced through science (physics & chemistry (plastic field) in this case).

Has anyone noticed WW chewing up pinballs comparatively faster than other games? After 100 games or so the balls are rougher than many hundreds of games in other machines. Same type of balls (standard balls from Marco or pinball life). Not really complaining Just finding this curious. I’ve changed balls about five times ina month. Here’s a pic like I said can’t be more than 100 games

A246FAEA-8CE2-44E0-8384-0465D203C90F (resized).jpeg

AIQ Premium & Primus (like) eats pinballs.

Wow, I need to check mine, still have the originals (roughly 500 games). Figured they would be good to 1K. Is there anything on Wonka that would wear balls faster? Maybe the metal to metal of the newton ball?

Attaching a picture of the incorrect factory wiring. You can see the pattern of correct locations for the black wire is not the same for the camera LED. I was able to gently pull the black wire out and stick back into the correct spot as seen on these other two connectors.

E9216152-AEC4-4E0C-B3CF-193002450ABE (resized).jpeg

Excellent troubleshooting!

On the subject of the camera, what qualifies it to take your picture? And what does it mean when your picture floats on the wonkavision screen?

Shooting the camera ramp when the red light on the camera is on.

It doesn't mean anything, it's just representing sucking you into the Wonkavision like the movie.

Speaking of photos: what determines whether the photo for a high score comes from mid- game or snapped after finishing a game? I've had it do both. The gameplay photos are often blurry or show concentration that could be confused with the facial expression of constipation. My friends and I have had some good laughs, but I'd rather have better photos.

Fact: the JJP camera adds roughly 20 pounds and 20 years. Only explanation I have for the horrible photos of some grumpy looking old man that keeps getting high scores on my machine.

Hahaha!!

Hehe Can confirm.

The problem is that it takes the photo when you're concentrating on other things, making it hard to pose for a good one.

Anyone else experienced this buzzing issue? Also it appears that the diverter just barely moves, even though it works as intended despite that limited motion. (I don't know what it normally looks like when diverting, though.)

https://imgur.com/a/M9kWd9r

Any chance the mod is interfering with motion?

Some buzzing is normal when it's engaged but I'm pretty sure mine moves further down.

The same grumpy old man is all over my machine. So weird!

Does anyone know if JJP is done running Wonka now?

I think somewhere in there you must have hit the nail on the head. More than likely the actual cause is more than one thing and therefore the fix will probably remain a bit abstract. If it was crystal clear I think it would have come out from JJP or someone by now. Seems like lots of JJP games are affected by this. I especially enjoyed number 5.

Those don't look good. Yes that can wear your game quicker. Will check mine tonight and try to post tomorrow. Mine is somewhere just over 100 plays. Thanks for posting!

No.