Check out my previous post in this thread about the black mark on the art. Others have reported the same.

I have a set of the Holograffix I’d sell at discount if your interested.

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/jjp-willy-wonka-pinblades-holograffix

Yep that is the exact product I ordered. Mine are not the holograffix, but they look really sharp; well worth the price for me.

Forgot about this, but confirmed mine also have this small mark. Not a big deal for me and never would have noticed it if I hadn't known to look for it, but it is a little odd.

They are. They had a great black Friday sale. I snagged a set for my wonka and dialed in. I went with the holografix blades and love em. They came pretty quick. I don't know of any current discount codes.

Update on the ball getting stuck on the left inlane: Per JJP the factory rubber that's on the post shouldn't be there for just this reason. Someone at the factory got overzealous with the rubber installation.

Left Inlane Post (resized).jpg

This is not an issue from the factory, this is due to the owner installing the post on the left outlane. By default, that post is not installed and the rubber on the inlane post is properly installed.

Where did you get those mushrooms on the green field on the left? The big trippy looking ones? Love em.

Is it me or is the "kid" shot like impossible! lol. I always have the hardest time hitting that.

Kid multiball? Yeah, it's tough. I find the right ramp to be even tougher for me lately.

Yes, Kid Multiball (not the captive ball)...

Funny how that happens, luckily I dont have trouble with the main ramps too often.

Sometimes it helps to hit the Right Ramp and Kid Multiball shot when you have "Shoot Again" lit. You can also adjust the flipper power settings to your liking for practice.

totally agree! I find the darker lighting more immersive when the PF lights are on especially during GB and Kid MBs!

Can't find a replacement for the roller micro switch on the Gobstopper tgt. Anyone have any luck on this? JJP not responding to an email and I need to get this ordered. Found the part number and searched everywhere. Maybe I am just missing it. Thanks in advance.

Now is the time we really start missing LTG.

What is LTG?

LTG - Lloyd the great…. #1 pinball support person and former JJP support.

let’s hope he comments on here

Thanks! Got 'em at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Skyseen-Wooden-Mushrooms-Craft-Ornaments/dp/B0728J73J9

Also bought some rigid plastic sheets, some green jewelry felt sticky "grass" sheets and made my own replacement part using a dremel for the clear plastic that the mushrooms sit on (so I wouldn't have to mess up the factory plastic). Used Gorilla tape on the bottom of the mushrooms to attch them, although I could have glued them or used small wood screws from the bottom (the large mushrooms are made of wood).

And yes the Kid Multiball is by far the hardest shot for me to make

I wouldn't bet on it. JJP wanted to do service in house so calling them directly will be your only solution. Good luck.

I don't think you understand the problem. The left OUTlane post has nothing to do with it and is not installed. There -is- a post, permanently installed, between the INlanes, that per JJP: "That post to the left" (of the stuck ball) "is not supposed to have a rubber on it. It was deleted by engineering for that reason. Please take it off and thank you for bringing this to my attention, I will alert production."

I understand perfectly as I've owned the game since release, though I appreciate your condescension. Look at your picture. There's a post between the left outlane and the left-most inlane. That is not installed from the factory. When that post is installed, the rubber on the post between the two left inlanes needs to be removed to avoid ball traps due to the narrowing of the gap.

If you have the factory post configuration (no left outlane post), the rubber on the post between the inlanes should be of no concern. Regardless, i think the game plays better with no inlane and outlane rubbers and no post on the far left.

TLDR: Per Jersey Jack the left inlane post should not have a rubber.

If someone tells me they don't think I understand the problem, I try to see if they're right and not get defensive. So for a final time, let's try to clear things up:
-The picture with the stuck ball and no hand drawn line is my machine. No outlane post. Stuck ball.
-The picture with no ball and the hand drawn line is from JJP. My machine shipped with the inlane rubber. JJP says it shouldn't have.

Shipping with an inlane rubber in place WAS an issue from the factory, and it is not "properly installed" as it should not have been installed at all per JJP.

This is incorrect, per JJP. My original problem illustrates that.

TL:DR

If there's anything I've stated above that you think is factually wrong, just let me know the exact quote so I can either correct myself or clarify. I have no interest in telling people they're wrong, but I do have a strong interest in making sure the right information is out there for anyone else who has this issue. One of the things I like about this Wonka thread is I've seen practically no sarcasm or snarkiness so far. I'd like to keep it that way.

IMG_20220105_122834364 (resized).jpg

Left Inlane Post (resized).jpg

The post I saw didn't have the 1st picture in it that you just included hence my confusion as to your issue. Apologies.

My game shipped without the outlane post and I thought it was a miss from the factory, good to know.

That said, the post base is visible (no plastic cap) which is why it caught my eye. Where can you get the caps?

Mine had the bottom plastic cap installed, and the other was in the bag with the post. I installed the second cap so both holes are plugged, but now the ball occasionally hits the top post cap and it changes the trajectory of the ball. I hate to think it might accelerate any playfield wear if the hole isn't plugged, but I also hate the idea of the ball occasionally bumping off the plastic cap. I'm not sure where you can buy them standalone. If I knew it wasn't going to harm the playfield I'd take the top cap back off.

I just got the game and it says the elevator diverter switch is stuck open. Am I going to have to take this thing apart to fix it? I'm not even sure where the switch is.

I don’t think I got a post or a cap in my goodie bag, I’ll have to look again

Hi All- I want a Wonka ! Does anyone know if the SE's are out of production forever? I see new LE's are $11000 ( a little out of my budget for now)
THank you

Having issues with my playfield lights all turning white during game play (started infrequently now I can’t get through a single game) and staying white. Only way to “fix” is to cycle the game off and back on. All cables are seated and tight. Code up to date. At this point my guess is a board is outta whack.

Question: sent JJP a ticket on Thursday. Anyone have general idea how long it takes them to get back to you ?

usually within 1 business day so I'd think Monday if you haven't heard by now.

I was shocked to see this a week or so ago. It's not an unreasonable price today for an new SE!
https://www.coinoppartsetc.com/product/games-pinball-machines-pinball-machines-new/jjp-willy-wonka-the-chocolate-factory-standard-0

Got a reply this morning. Think it’s awesome they answered on a Saturday. Just in case anyone has this trouble / problem with lights staying all white, this is what JJP sent:

From: Steve Zamonski
Sent: 1/8/2022
Subject: all the playfield lights are white and wont change colors

Hi John - if you would please, go into the backbox and pull the monitor forward and look at the wiring on the right side (looking at it from the front). The 5volts (red with black ground) dc comes out from the lower middle of the metal box that houses the power supply, sound board and motherboard and runs to the right side of the backbox above the I/O board. It also breaks off and feeds the I/O board right along the top edge. In that area you will see a couple of connectors with the red and black wires which eventually feeds down into the playfield harness and comes out, among other places, at the BAG board (the same board with the mini-usb connection that you said you checked). Concentrate on the backbox connections and look carefully to see if perhaps a black or red wire has pulled back within a connector - that is to say, if a wire with a pin crimped on it is falling backwards out of a connector just a bit even though the molex connector may be plugged in tightly. We have seen several cases of this, and it would cause the lights to freeze as you are seeing. Thanks

I would like to add the instructions are a little off at least for my machine but it was a molex connector that had a loose internal wire. I wouldn’t have though to check the power supply but I did it in reverse and followed the power from the bag board backwards. It was the first molex I came to that had the loose wires.

Hope it helps if anyone else has this issue

THANK YOU arcyallen !!!!!!!!

Hey all. I’m joining the club! About to unbox my LE. As a newb to this machine any common issues to watch out for or must have protectors etc? TIA

Not really. Just start playing it. The Gobstopper switch will most likely show that it is stuck open which happens to everyone. I still haven't tried to fix that, it's on my list. Mine is setup at 7 degrees.

Congrats, it truly is a very special game, snag you a wifi dongle (be sure to get one that works with this machine, posted several times in this forum), get the code updates, and enjoy the show!

The new run comes with the WiFi equipped.

Aaah very nice!

Thank you both for the tips. Everything about this game worked out of the box. Not only that, it seemed all dialed in and played great. The only thing was it seems awful hard to hit the right ramp. I increased the left flipper strength by a few points and solved that. There was some minor cleaning to do from the factory. There was a foot print on the plywood on the underside which was kind of funny actually but it wiped off. Some fingerprints on the display which came off. The invisiglass has a couple of small blemishes that don’t clean off, seems like some kind of damage or flaw. Can’t notice too much during gameplay but I might see if distro can replace. A washer and a nut fell into the cabinet during the first few games so need to try to figure if they came off something important or maybe they were just lost during manufacturing and finally fell out.

You are right, it’s a beauty. I’m really impressed with the build quality and the game itself is pretty amazing. The idea was to have a family friendly pin my son and wife could enjoy and it really lives up to that. I did connect to Wi-Fi but it was up to date. I tried Bluetooth but apparently no Bluetooth dongle included. I suppose it would plug into the same place. Although I don’t know what I’d do with the Bluetooth. Maybe to sync it to an external sound system?

The ramps drop onto the inlane switches so I was thinking could use metal switch protectors. But there is Mylar there so maybe that’s fine. It seems like the game came with lots of protectors in the right places.

Cheers
Jack

What’s considered the hardest spot? I suppose it would be the lower of the two spots?

I’d love to see what folks have done for custom rubber colors on this game. Please share!

My game is making this constant knocking noise that interrupts the game sound:

Any suggestions? This game was just unboxed a few days ago.

Well thats a new one! As the music is cutting out and stopping could be a hard drive or power to interruption. Try resetting all connectors as a start till JJP is open next week.

Which connectors? This is my first JJP so I'm not sure if I should open that panel in the back box.

I did cause of the issue I was having with the lights (see my post 1/2 a page up)….anyhooo it’s simple. Pull monitor outta way - it’s 4 screws to remove the metal cover - it covers the motherboard (on right) / soundboard (middle) and power supply (on left). On the left are the wires coming off the LED strip on that metal cover. Be sure to unplug the molex connector

Once it’s open you will see the sound board - it is going to have a red/black wire connected to the sound board from the power supply (as you are looking at it it will be the far left one) - the two next to it feed the speakers (you can see/ follow them up) - and there is on more connector into the soundboard from the mother board

Make sure all of those and connected securely and hopefully that will solve your problem

Good luck

Man that's a weird one. I would definitely hit up support for assistance, that seems beyond the normal debug/tweaks.