(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

3 years ago


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“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 126 votes
    25%
  • Limited Edition 265 votes
    52%
  • Collectors Edition 118 votes
    23%

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#10301 4 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

There is actually a setting in the menu to bump up the led brightness one notch. Can't remember if it's inserts only or includes GI but worth a look. I think it's under system settings?

Also, mirror blades adds light by bouncing the light around the playfield instead of absorbing into the black cabinet walls.

#10302 4 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

There is actually a setting in the menu to bump up the led brightness one notch. Can't remember if it's inserts only or includes GI but worth a look. I think it's under system settings?

See my post 10243.

#10303 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I want to be able to play it with lights off or dimmed but improve the playfield lighting slightly. Maybe the trough lighting kit would help?

I added led strips to the side of the upper ramp and the back of the ramp sign, also have star post lights on the slings. Both are pretty cheap and simple. I also have a poor man stadium strip on the left and a spotlight by the left diverter but those are a little more complicated / invasive.

#10304 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I want to be able to play it with lights off or dimmed but improve the playfield lighting slightly. Maybe the trough lighting kit would help?

I have a trough lighting kit coming to help with with the darkness around flippers on some modes. I need to figure out how to brighten up Wonkas face. Thinking a spot light

#10305 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Just not a fan of $350 for lights.

I hear what you're saying. I think most mods for pinball are a bad value. Having said that, Pinstadiums are one of the few things that are worth it to me. I know you didn't want to hear that, so I'll just end with this: If you haven't seen them live, you owe it to yourself to do that and then decide. If you have seen them, great, you know how much they're worth to you.

#10306 4 months ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

Would love to see a parts list to do this.

This thread has great info. I made a set for my JP Pro. I used rare earth magnets for mine, installing the cabinet magnets behind the mirror blades. It was more work, but a cleaner finished product.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poor-mans-stadium-lighting

#10307 4 months ago

Alright, I've played about 30 games on my new LE (my first JJP!), and I have some questions for you all before I contact JJP.
-My machine moves a lot, I think due to the felt leg protectors causing extra space. I get a lot of tilts because of this. Are people just tightening the leg bolts a lot more, or what? I'm getting tilt warnings on every game, and rarely tilt on my other pins. I don't want to overtighten the bolts either.
-During a few features the machine buzzes a lot, especially at the beginning of the Elevator feature. I'm curious what mechanism is causing this. Is it a shaker, or something else in the machine? It feels pretty cool, but a little disconcerting as I'd swear something was wrong if it weren't so controlled.
-My kickback isn't syncing well with the ball, and only works half the time (and rarely correctly). I figured the machine might learn over time, but it has not improved. Should I start tinkering with the "do not tinker" coil settings section?
-I get balls stuck on the innermost left inlane between the rubbers. I can't think of any adjustment to make, and the rubbers haven't broken in enough to let a slow ball go through. If I give it a good shake it'll come loose, but clearly it's not right.
-Check your balls! One of my was badly rusted out of the box. Thankfully I noticed quickly.

This is an interesting pin. At first it was almost overwhelming because it's not super clear what to do. Most every other pin I've owned I could quickly figure out the gist of it. This one will take some time!

#10308 4 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Alright, I've played about 30 games on my new LE (my first JJP!), and I have some questions for you all before I contact JJP.
-My machine moves a lot, I think due to the felt leg protectors causing extra space. I get a lot of tilts because of this. Are people just tightening the leg bolts a lot more, or what? I'm getting tilt warnings on every game, and rarely tilt on my other pins. I don't want to overtighten the bolts either.
-During a few features the machine buzzes a lot, especially at the beginning of the Elevator feature. I'm curious what mechanism is causing this. Is it a shaker, or something else in the machine? It feels pretty cool, but a little disconcerting as I'd swear something was wrong if it weren't so controlled.
-My kickback isn't syncing well with the ball, and only works half the time (and rarely correctly). I figured the machine might learn over time, but it has not improved. Should I start tinkering with the "do not tinker" coil settings section?
-I get balls stuck on the innermost left inlane between the rubbers. I can't think of any adjustment to make, and the rubbers haven't broken in enough to let a slow ball go through. If I give it a good shake it'll come loose, but clearly it's not right.
-Check your balls! One of my was badly rusted out of the box. Thankfully I noticed quickly.
This is an interesting pin. At first it was almost overwhelming because it's not super clear what to do. Most every other pin I've owned I could quickly figure out the gist of it. This one will take some time!

1. Change the leg protectors to the metal ones from Pinball Life. That helped me resolve the issue.

https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html

2. By "buzzes" is it audible? OR, are you feeling the shaking from the shaker motor?

3. You can adjust the kickback in settings and see if this helps.

4. I cannot help you here. I have not seen this and am away from my machine for a few weeks.

5. Switch the balls to Ninjas

https://ballbaron.com/product/ninja-super-shiny-chrome-pinball-g10/

You can find some infographics out on the web along with some PDF walkthroughs to help you get going with this game. Derek has a quick rundown to explain rules and strategy on Youtube along with some good Twitch feeds of his gameplay.

Enjoy your Wonka!!

#10309 4 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Alright, I've played about 30 games on my new LE (my first JJP!), and I have some questions for you all before I contact JJP.
-My machine moves a lot, I think due to the felt leg protectors causing extra space. I get a lot of tilts because of this. Are people just tightening the leg bolts a lot more, or what? I'm getting tilt warnings on every game, and rarely tilt on my other pins. I don't want to overtighten the bolts either.
-During a few features the machine buzzes a lot, especially at the beginning of the Elevator feature. I'm curious what mechanism is causing this. Is it a shaker, or something else in the machine? It feels pretty cool, but a little disconcerting as I'd swear something was wrong if it weren't so controlled.
-My kickback isn't syncing well with the ball, and only works half the time (and rarely correctly). I figured the machine might learn over time, but it has not improved. Should I start tinkering with the "do not tinker" coil settings section?
-I get balls stuck on the innermost left inlane between the rubbers. I can't think of any adjustment to make, and the rubbers haven't broken in enough to let a slow ball go through. If I give it a good shake it'll come loose, but clearly it's not right.
-Check your balls! One of my was badly rusted out of the box. Thankfully I noticed quickly.
This is an interesting pin. At first it was almost overwhelming because it's not super clear what to do. Most every other pin I've owned I could quickly figure out the gist of it. This one will take some time!

For the inlanes, if you have the extra posts installed, you will have a hard time getting a ball to pass cleanly with any standard rubber. The solution I found to work perfectly is post caps, with the closed end cut off. Slide them down to where the rings are currently installed, and they work perfectly. The bonus is, they look like little pieces of candy. You might be able to zoom in on the photo below to see. Not home for a close up.

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52

When I set up my game, I presumed the felt was just for shipping. I didn't see until later that they were intended to be "protectors." This was a solution to a problem I've never had, and every machine in my collection has custom powder coat.

For the kickback, check to see how the rollover is bent. It sounds like the ball is activating the switch late (if it fires after passing.) It might need to be bent up, or forward a bit. I'm not home to check, but there might be a delay setting as well. If it fires early, it could be the opposite problem, or your game is pitched too shallow.

I presume that the vibration you feel is the shaker. Make sure everything is tight, and check your settings. I love the integration on mine.

20211224_214508 (resized).jpg
#10310 4 months ago
Quoted from flipperstick:

2. By "buzzes" is it audible? OR, are you feeling the shaking from the shaker motor?

Audible at first (and maybe almost buzzy feeling), then you can feel it. I assume it's the shaker, but it doesn't feel anything like any shaker I've ever experienced in any machine. I'm just curious if JJP has some sort of other special mechanism under there.

Quoted from gorditas:

For the inlanes, if you have the extra posts installed,

No extra posts. Just the stock rubbers pinching (see post). I've had this happen before on another pin but it quickly "broke in" and was free. And it's not catching on the rollover.

Quoted from gorditas:

For the kickback, check to see how the rollover is bent.

Rollover looks perfect, just triggering erratically. I'll try changing the settings. Just wanted to know if anyone else had that issue.

Quoted from flipperstick:

Change the leg protectors to the metal ones from Pinball Life.

Metal leg protectors sound horrible! I'm sure they work great, but metal -seems- like the last thing I'd want in there. And very opposite of the felt set it came with. But again, I'm sure they'd be fine.

IMG_20220105_122834364 (resized).jpg
#10311 4 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Metal leg protectors sound horrible! I'm sure they work great, but metal -seems- like the last thing I'd want in there. And very opposite of the felt set it came with. But again, I'm sure they'd be fine.[quoted image]

The felt work fine, if your game wobbles or squeaks you just need to tighten the leg bolts a bit more.

Leave the felts in, they protect your art.

#10312 4 months ago

The buzzing I suspect is just the shaker as you proposed. Mine makes a little more vibration noise as well going into Wonkavator Multiball.

I had some issues with my kickback initially, and I just needed to make sure the table was leveled correctly both front-back & left-right.

#10313 4 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Audible at first (and maybe almost buzzy feeling), then you can feel it. I assume it's the shaker, but it doesn't feel anything like any shaker I've ever experienced in any machine. I'm just curious if JJP has some sort of other special mechanism under there.

No extra posts. Just the stock rubbers pinching (see post). I've had this happen before on another pin but it quickly "broke in" and was free. And it's not catching on the rollover.

Rollover looks perfect, just triggering erratically. I'll try changing the settings. Just wanted to know if anyone else had that issue.

Metal leg protectors sound horrible! I'm sure they work great, but metal -seems- like the last thing I'd want in there. And very opposite of the felt set it came with. But again, I'm sure they'd be fine.[quoted image]

I have the kickback issue, it either misses it all together or it just lobs it up, maybe to a gum target at its highest. Doesn’t really bother me and I read of a lot of people who have the same issue. If there’s a fix I would be curious.

#10314 4 months ago

I removed the rubber from the post between the two inlanes when I installed the (cheater?) post at the bottom outlane position. It seems to work ok.

#10315 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Just not a fan of $350 for lights.

350? I think there more like 600$ now.

#10316 4 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

350? I think there more like 600$ now.

They have 3 of them. $280, $350 and $600. It's tempting on this pin because it is a little dark. I think I'd rather get a $400 pinwoofer system first.

#10317 4 months ago
Quoted from FlippinJB:

I removed the rubber from the post between the two inlanes when I installed the (cheater?) post at the bottom outlane position. It seems to work ok.

I used the post caps from pinlife for the center post that where link/mention earlier on this thread.

https://www.pinballlife.com/perfectplay-silicone-post-cap.html

#10318 4 months ago

Holy wonka bars!! I think I racked up this many from a very long wonka bar ransom paired with a few multiballs. That’s one mode I don’t know yet but it’s the only thing I can think of. My most by far.

E51C5B29-FEC7-4944-AFAA-919A541C17BE.jpeg
#10319 4 months ago
Quoted from Vitty:

Holy wonka bars!! I think I racked up this many from a very long wonka bar ransom paired with a few multiballs. That’s one mode I don’t know yet but it’s the only thing I can think of. My most by far.
[quoted image]

Wow… that’s amazing!

#10320 4 months ago

Having a few glitching issues. Have searched this forum and either these glitches are new (not likely) or I’m a nob and can’t find the post addressing them (most likely)

First one has happened 4x now. All the lights turn white and stay white (no flashing no color change) - the first time I played through and got a decent score and attribute that to no “blinking” lights. The last time it happened I went into menu / tests / LEDs / all - and when I cycled through the colors (white, red, green, blue) - all the lights stayed white.
Only way I have found to fix it is turn off and on the machine.

Second glitch - is gobstopper error - it’s happened a few times and the error message reads opto error. The the gobstopper hole cycles through and stops in out of position locations. I have gone into menu and moved it with no results. My fix has been to jiggle the wires under the gobstopper (they are the opto wires and the optos are clean / clear / not obstructed)- I have traced them back the board and see no issues. so no real idea of what’s causing the error or what I’m doing to actually “fix” it. Cause in my very limited technical experience “jiggling” wires isn’t really a fix.

Any thoughts or ideas I’m game. Besides putting on a chicken suit and dancing in the street. Tired that one once and doesn’t work.

#10321 4 months ago
Quoted from JohnJ1366:

Having a few glitching issues. Have searched this forum and either these glitches are new (not likely) or I’m a nob and can’t find the post addressing them (most likely)
First one has happened 4x now. All the lights turn white and stay white (no flashing no color change) - the first time I played through and got a decent score and attribute that to no “blinking” lights. The last time it happened I went into menu / tests / LEDs / all - and when I cycled through the colors (white, red, green, blue) - all the lights stayed white.
Only way I have found to fix it is turn off and on the machine.
Second glitch - is gobstopper error - it’s happened a few times and the error message reads opto error. The the gobstopper hole cycles through and stops in out of position locations. I have gone into menu and moved it with no results. My fix has been to jiggle the wires under the gobstopper (they are the opto wires and the optos are clean / clear / not obstructed)- I have traced them back the board and see no issues. so no real idea of what’s causing the error or what I’m doing to actually “fix” it. Cause in my very limited technical experience “jiggling” wires isn’t really a fix.
Any thoughts or ideas I’m game. Besides putting on a chicken suit and dancing in the street. Tired that one once and doesn’t work.

Sorry to hear this and likely worth putting in a ticket with JJP either way. I have not experienced the first issues in 1 year of ownership so that doesn't sound normal. As for the Gobstopper, on the prior code I had an issue where if someone power cycled the game in anything but attract mode, when the game booted up the gobstopper would go to the wrong position, make a buzzing sound, and show an error on screen. I would manually correct it each time by going into the test menu and manually moving it back to the correct position using the +/- buttons. Sounds like this didn't work for you so may be a different issue...sorry! But with latest code update (I am on beta) I have not had the issue. Are you on latest code?

#10322 4 months ago
Quoted from JohnJ1366:

Having a few glitching issues. Have searched this forum and either these glitches are new (not likely) or I’m a nob and can’t find the post addressing them (most likely)
First one has happened 4x now. All the lights turn white and stay white (no flashing no color change) - the first time I played through and got a decent score and attribute that to no “blinking” lights. The last time it happened I went into menu / tests / LEDs / all - and when I cycled through the colors (white, red, green, blue) - all the lights stayed white.
Only way I have found to fix it is turn off and on the machine.
Second glitch - is gobstopper error - it’s happened a few times and the error message reads opto error. The the gobstopper hole cycles through and stops in out of position locations. I have gone into menu and moved it with no results. My fix has been to jiggle the wires under the gobstopper (they are the opto wires and the optos are clean / clear / not obstructed)- I have traced them back the board and see no issues. so no real idea of what’s causing the error or what I’m doing to actually “fix” it. Cause in my very limited technical experience “jiggling” wires isn’t really a fix.
Any thoughts or ideas I’m game. Besides putting on a chicken suit and dancing in the street. Tired that one once and doesn’t work.

There is a black USB cable that plugs into the motherboard and into a main light board (with all the ethernet cables sprouting from it.) I would make sure it’s well seated on both ends as a start to troubleshooting.

#10323 4 months ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

I have the kickback issue, it either misses it all together or it just lobs it up, maybe to a gum target at its highest. Doesn’t really bother me and I read of a lot of people who have the same issue. If there’s a fix I would be curious.

Changing the delay in the coil settings did not work. Taking the apron off and correcting the cockeyed coil did. Hard to see in action, but pretty obvious like this!

As for the ball sticking in the inlane, I stretched the sling rubber out and that seems to have done the trick.

IMG_20220105_201310247 (resized).jpg
#10324 4 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Audible at first (and maybe almost buzzy feeling), then you can feel it. I assume it's the shaker, but it doesn't feel anything like any shaker I've ever experienced in any machine. I'm just curious if JJP has some sort of other special mechanism under there.

No extra posts. Just the stock rubbers pinching (see post). I've had this happen before on another pin but it quickly "broke in" and was free. And it's not catching on the rollover.

Rollover looks perfect, just triggering erratically. I'll try changing the settings. Just wanted to know if anyone else had that issue.

Metal leg protectors sound horrible! I'm sure they work great, but metal -seems- like the last thing I'd want in there. And very opposite of the felt set it came with. But again, I'm sure they'd be fine.[quoted image]

So I had this problem with my inlane for a while. Then realized the sling shot posts to the right of it were loose, which were causing them to push left and block the inlane. Tightened em up and havent had the issue since.

#10325 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The felt work fine, if your game wobbles or squeaks you just need to tighten the leg bolts a bit more.
Leave the felts in, they protect your art.

I never really understood the need to protect art that will literally always be covered by the legs...

#10326 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

They have 3 of them. $280, $350 and $600. It's tempting on this pin because it is a little dark. I think I'd rather get a $400 pinwoofer system first.

I guess im in the minority. I like the dark setting.. becuase when it lights up, its awesome!

#10327 4 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I never really understood the need to protect art that will literally always be covered by the legs...

Look at a few original Monster Bash games and you’ll see why. Looks terrible once the art starts peeling and cracking half way up the cabinet. If properly tightened with a metal protector or felt it works fine.

#10328 4 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Look at a few original Monster Bash games and you’ll see why. Looks terrible once the art starts peeling and cracking half way up the cabinet. If properly tightened with a metal protector or felt it works fine.

oh gotcha. That makes more sense.

So, is the problem usually from legs that are too loose? I think I have the opposite issue on my machines, mine are always on the tight side..

#10329 4 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

oh gotcha. That makes more sense.
So, is the problem usually from legs that are too loose? I think I have the opposite issue on my machines, mine are always on the tight side..

Legs are often over bent 90 with a sharp rear edge from stamping. As the 300 plus pound game is being shaken for its entire life 3 feet up in no time the legs bite into the decals. Over the years Many different mods have been created to prevent this damage but the small metal brackets seem to work the best at preventing the legs from touching. Many choose to Over tighten the bolts to compensate and often the cabinet will split at the seam in time with shaking. Once it’s damaged there’s no going back.

#10330 4 months ago

Personally, I like the felt pads. Provides just enough security to tighten the legs firmly, but you still get wiggle room to nudge the machine as well.

#10331 4 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Legs are often over bent 90 with a sharp rear edge from stamping. As the 300 plus pound game is being shaken for its entire life 3 feet up in no time the legs bite into the decals. Over the years Many different mods have been created to prevent this damage but the small metal brackets seem to work the best at preventing the legs from touching. Many choose to Over tighten the bolts to compensate and often the cabinet will split at the seam in time with shaking. Once it’s damaged there’s no going back.

Great... I know what ill be ordering today lol.

I assume you buy these for the rear legs as well?

#10332 4 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Great... I know what ill be ordering today lol.
I assume you buy these for the rear legs as well?

Yep. Typically always sold as a set of 4.

https://www.pinballlife.com/metal-cabinet-protectors-set-of-4.html

#10333 4 months ago
Quoted from DaddyManD:

Sorry to hear this and likely worth putting in a ticket with JJP either way. I have not experienced the first issues in 1 year of ownership so that doesn't sound normal. As for the Gobstopper, on the prior code I had an issue where if someone power cycled the game in anything but attract mode, when the game booted up the gobstopper would go to the wrong position, make a buzzing sound, and show an error on screen. I would manually correct it each time by going into the test menu and manually moving it back to the correct position using the +/- buttons. Sounds like this didn't work for you so may be a different issue...sorry! But with latest code update (I am on beta) I have not had the issue. Are you on latest code?

Yes on the latest code.

Quoted from zaphX:

There is a black USB cable that plugs into the motherboard and into a main light board (with all the ethernet cables sprouting from it.) I would make sure it’s well seated on both ends as a start to troubleshooting.

I gave that a try hopefully that was it. I was 100% sure where the main light board connection was and was fiddling with the blue data cables. By you saying “black USB” made all the difference. Thanks

#10334 4 months ago

Thanks for this.

Maybe a dumb question.. Im not a big fan of screwing into the cab but I see these have screws to hold the metal protectors in place? I guess it wouldnt matter since you wont see them anyways...

#10335 4 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

There is a black USB cable that plugs into the motherboard and into a main light board (with all the ethernet cables sprouting from it.) I would make sure it’s well seated on both ends as a start to troubleshooting.

Jiggled and reset the USB cables and it would fix itself for a game or two and go right back to all white lights.

Please excuse my tech jargon in advance. Took a closer look at what I’m guessing is the main light board under playfield (has one blue data cable, one black usb c cable and, one molex connector)

The USB was being pinched/pushed at an odd angle by that plastic doohickey that only had the USB and one more set of wires wire tied for cable managment. Loosened the plastic doohickey turned it outta way and crossing fingers that was the problem.

If that’s not it I’ll tape out and pull a ticket like: daddymand suggested

Glass is half full……at least the gobstopper thingy hasn’t acted up

61983F7A-2F49-46A4-A4EF-951DD94277B7 (resized).jpeg
#10336 4 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Thanks for this.
Maybe a dumb question.. Im not a big fan of screwing into the cab but I see these have screws to hold the metal protectors in place? I guess it wouldnt matter since you wont see them anyways...

Not a dumb question. Technically you dont Have to screw them in as its just a shim. Could just use a sticky dot. For the record (unless I'm wrong) I believe All JJP games already have these metal protectors installed from the factory.

#10337 4 months ago
Quoted from Yelobird:

Not a dumb question. Technically you dont Have to screw them in as its just a shim. Could just use a sticky dot. For the record (unless I'm wrong) I believe All JJP games already have these metal protectors installed from the factory.

Interesting.. thanks again for your help on this.

#10338 4 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

Changing the delay in the coil settings did not work. Taking the apron off and correcting the cockeyed coil did. Hard to see in action, but pretty obvious like this!
As for the ball sticking in the inlane, I stretched the sling rubber out and that seems to have done the trick.
[quoted image]

Thanks for the follow up on this for what worked.

#10339 4 months ago

I picked up a Wonka LE two days before Christmas. Distributor here said JJP re-released 200 more. They allowed him 2 and I was lucky to get one of them as the other was sold. I missed this game originally and am so happy to get one. It's been years since a new game and I love it. This is also first JJP game and I have to say I am impressed. I love the theme and it is so well done IMHO. This one is LE# 1100. I am curious if there are any higher serial numbers out there or could this be the last one of this batch? The build date does not show day, just 12/21.

#10340 4 months ago
Quoted from PlayPin:

I picked up a Wonka LE two days before Christmas. Distributor here said JJP re-released 200 more. They allowed him 2 and I was lucky to get one of them as the other was sold. I missed this game originally and am so happy to get one. It's been years since a new game and I love it. This is also first JJP game and I have to say I am impressed. I love the theme and it is so well done IMHO. This one is LE# 1100. I am curious if there are any higher serial numbers out there or could this be the last one of this batch? The build date does not show day, just 12/21.

I believe the LE numbers are chosen at random.

#10341 4 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

Still unclear about whether to tighten camera down in glass position or back position and I can’t for the life of me understand why it should slide at all.
Also I loosened screws of shooter housing and was able to partially/mostly fix the rubbing, but are there any adjustments to consider for the auto-plunger? It seems a little off when looking at my DI. Should it ever be adjusted? Does it slide upward at all?

Anyone able to advise on either of the above? I still have shooter rubbing the auto ejector, but can’t lower the shooter rod any further. Should I be finding a way to adjust the auto eject metal?

#10342 4 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

Anyone able to advise on either of the above? I still have shooter rubbing the auto ejector, but can’t lower the shooter rod any further. Should I be finding a way to adjust the auto eject metal?

Best to just reach out to JJP support for a quick answer.

#10343 4 months ago
Quoted from PlayPin:

I picked up a Wonka LE two days before Christmas. Distributor here said JJP re-released 200 more. They allowed him 2 and I was lucky to get one of them as the other was sold. I missed this game originally and am so happy to get one. It's been years since a new game and I love it. This is also first JJP game and I have to say I am impressed. I love the theme and it is so well done IMHO. This one is LE# 1100. I am curious if there are any higher serial numbers out there or could this be the last one of this batch? The build date does not show day, just 12/21.

Mine is #1198. Built in November.

#10344 4 months ago
Quoted from gorditas:

Mine is #1198. Built in November.

Thanks for posting this. Maybe there are 1200?

#10345 4 months ago

I just joined the club with LE #298. The ramp combos and “choose your own adventure” (non-linear) style gameplay is right up my alley! Really looking forward to learning the ins-and-outs of the code, and adding all suggested tweaks and enhancements.

I also just bought a twilight zone, so now considering myself a huge Pat Lawler fan.

#10346 4 months ago
Quoted from rapidflipper:

I just joined the club with LE #298. The ramp combos and “choose your own adventure” (non-linear) style gameplay is right up my alley! Really looking forward to learning the ins-and-outs of the code, and adding all suggested tweaks and enhancements.
I also just bought a twilight zone, so now considering myself a huge Pat Lawler fan.

The non-linear play style and seemingly randomness to the call outs is something I really appreciate about this pin too. This is a feature that keeps game play feeling fresh.

#10347 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I only want to own RGB games going forward. My Star Trek Prem, Wonka and Hobbit all have RGB playfield lights. That said, does anyone have any advice on how to brighten up the GI lighting "slightly" on Wonka. No overkill here, just feel it is a bit too dark. Please, no one mention pinstadium either.

pcprogrammer I made two purchases for lighting and HIGHLY recommend:

#1 - Trough and backboard led light strip combo from Lermods, looks amazing and easy plug and play (you can "make your own" to save a few bucks, but to me it was worth it for ease of installation and wiring): https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/willy-wonka-and-the-chocolate-factory-pinball-led-strip-backboard-slash-trough-combo

#2 - Wonka Bar style spotlights for the center of the main playfield, also from Lermods, it provides a wonderful amount of light for the main Willy image in the middle of the playfield, not too bright, not too dark, just right, looks great, also plug and play and mounts on the top of the slings (and for the money this is my single favorite mod): https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/willy-wonka-the-chocolate-factory-pinball-spotlight-covers

This picture was taken in a fairly dark room. Yeah I have gone a little crazy with the mods, but sure had fun making the machine my own. Shaker motor and Invisiglass (I just have the SE model) are absolutely worth it. Love this game and will never leave my collection (unless I find a steal on a CE at some point).

IMG_6283 (resized).JPG
#10348 4 months ago
Quoted from naf_llabnip:

pcprogrammer I made two purchases for lighting and HIGHLY recommend:
#1 - Trough and backboard led light strip combo from Lermods, looks amazing and easy plug and play (you can "make your own" to save a few bucks, but to me it was worth it for ease of installation and wiring): https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/willy-wonka-and-the-chocolate-factory-pinball-led-strip-backboard-slash-trough-combo
#2 - Wonka Bar style spotlights for the center of the main playfield, also from Lermods, it provides a wonderful amount of light for the main Willy image in the middle of the playfield, not too bright, not too dark, just right, looks great, also plug and play and mounts on the top of the slings (and for the money this is my single favorite mod): https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/willy-wonka-the-chocolate-factory-pinball-spotlight-covers
This picture was taken in a fairly dark room. Yeah I have gone a little crazy with the mods, but sure had fun making the machine my own. Shaker motor and Invisiglass (I just have the SE model) are absolutely worth it. Love this game and will never leave my collection (unless I find a steal on a CE at some point).
[quoted image]

I'll probably do everything you recommended including the art blades. I've tried multiple times to contact pingraffix lately to see if they have any coupon codes and haven't got any replies. Are they still in business?

#10349 4 months ago

Holographix side blades?

Quoted from naf_llabnip:

pcprogrammer I made two purchases for lighting and HIGHLY recommend:
#1 - Trough and backboard led light strip combo from Lermods, looks amazing and easy plug and play (you can "make your own" to save a few bucks, but to me it was worth it for ease of installation and wiring): https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/willy-wonka-and-the-chocolate-factory-pinball-led-strip-backboard-slash-trough-combo
#2 - Wonka Bar style spotlights for the center of the main playfield, also from Lermods, it provides a wonderful amount of light for the main Willy image in the middle of the playfield, not too bright, not too dark, just right, looks great, also plug and play and mounts on the top of the slings (and for the money this is my single favorite mod): https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/willy-wonka-the-chocolate-factory-pinball-spotlight-covers
This picture was taken in a fairly dark room. Yeah I have gone a little crazy with the mods, but sure had fun making the machine my own. Shaker motor and Invisiglass (I just have the SE model) are absolutely worth it. Love this game and will never leave my collection (unless I find a steal on a CE at some point).
[quoted image]

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