(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

2 years ago


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  • Latest reply 47 minutes ago by prentice
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“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 128 votes
    26%
  • Limited Edition 252 votes
    51%
  • Collectors Edition 116 votes
    23%

(496 votes)

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There are 10,586 posts in this topic. You are on page 181 of 212.
#9001 6 months ago

For those on beta build 4, does anyone know how to get the super secret skill shot?

#9002 6 months ago
Quoted from erikgilby:

For those on beta build 4, does anyone know how to get the super secret skill shot?

Camera ramp, factory ramp, gobstopper ramp and the Wonka vision shot. Got to be in the zone for that one.

#9003 6 months ago

Why not start your own score bit thread?

#9004 6 months ago

Thanks! Wow, yes, quite the shot. Looking forward to the challenge!

#9005 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Remove the screw and post holding it down. Put a washer or two under it. Then fasten it back down.
LTG : )

After looking at the ramp set up, I don't see how to elevate it with a washer. I would have to elevate the entire ramp and it's anchored into the playfield with very small screws at the ramp entrance plate and i'm not jacking with that.

rrosenhouse , i agree, i think the only way to elevate it is to wedge something in between the plastic piece and the back of the channel, which is unfortunate but I don't see how else to do it. I am going to try a piece of rigid foam or something that expands a little so that it holds in place. Either way, have to fix it because it really impacts play when the ball is stuck and your trying to hit the captive ball to score or advance something.

#9006 6 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Right now I have two , double spotlights on the slingshots and an LED strip above the back of the playfield. I can take some pics if how they are wired up over the next few days.
[quoted image]

Put spotlights on my machine...but stupid question, where do you wire them to? I found some gi lights that should work but they are of course not soldered but connectors. So curious to see how you did yours. Many thanks!

#9007 6 months ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

Put spotlights on my machine...but stupid question, where do you wire them to? I found some gi lights that should work but they are of course not soldered but connectors. So curious to see how you did yours. Many thanks!

I typically connect lighting mods on all my JJP games into the spotlights' wiring. Just remember that JJP operates lighting on a 12v system!

#9008 6 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

I typically connect lighting mods on all my JJP games into the spotlights' wiring. Just remember that JJP operates lighting on a 12v system!

Gi lighting and the spotlights are 5v on wonka. Been a while since I’ve checked that, but pretty sure it is.

#9009 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Gi lighting and the spotlights are 5v on wonka. Been a while since I’ve checked that, but pretty sure it is.

Interesting. Oh well ... so much for consistency if that's the case.

#9010 6 months ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Interesting. Oh well ... so much for consistency if that's the case.

Yeah, potc and hobbit spots are 12v.

#9011 6 months ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

After looking at the ramp set up, I don't see how to elevate it with a washer.

Heat it up and bend up a little.

Be sure your balls are the right size. Not likely but bigger ones could be in there somehow. I bought some at a show once and low and behold a bigger one was in there.

LTG : )

#9012 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Heat it up and bend up a little.
Be sure your balls are the right size. Not likely but bigger ones could be in there somehow. I bought some at a show once and low and behold a bigger one was in there.
LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd, another good idea. I wedged a piece of fairly rigid foam, cut to shape of a wedge, and lifted the plastic just enough and it seems to be working great. It's nice to actually use the captive ball now lol. Always appreciate the insights and suggestions though.

#9013 6 months ago

I’m trying to upgrade from 1.34 to 1.38 via the Internet. Image downloaded and verified quickly but the update has been hanging for 30 min so far. I suspect it will never finish. Anyone else?

1767A6A1-3843-4EC7-A7AA-155427CCE5D7 (resized).jpeg
#9014 6 months ago

Turn off. Try again. If it hangs again use the USB stick method.

LTG : )

#9015 6 months ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I’m trying to upgrade from 1.34 to 1.38 via the Internet. Image downloaded and verified quickly but the update has been hanging for 30 min so far. I suspect it will never finish. Anyone else?
[quoted image]

I consistently have the same issue. I just purchased a usb wifi stick....will see if that helps

#9016 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Turn off. Try again. If it hangs again use the USB stick method.
LTG : )

Thanks for the fast reply, as usual

So I gave on the network after trying it a few times. I've now also tried:

1. USB delta update method - twice, with different size/speed USB sticks
2. USB full upgrade method - three times, with different size/speed USB sticks. Once using a windows machine to create the image, once with a Mac, and roofus and unetbootin. All get to "mounting /dev/usb" but then eventually boot into the game code instead of the updater. However, once it's in the normal bootloader it's too late for the full install anyway.

On a whim, I created a virtual machine on parallels and booted the image ... and it works. So the USB stick is good. Is there a chance the BIOS on the machine isn't set with USB as priority? I tried to test that theory by connecting a keyboard, but I can't get into the BIOS as it is password protected. I'm sure there is a jumper somewhere where I could reset everything and get past it, but that seems a bit extreme.

EDIT: I also tried a different USB port with the same results.

Any suggestions?

#9017 6 months ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Any suggestions?

Maybe the computer experts here might have a better answer.

I doubt bios setting.

Myself, I think I'd save my settings on a separate usb stick. Then stick a new hard drive in there, and then try the full install.

LTG : )

#9018 6 months ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Thanks for the fast reply, as usual
So I gave on the network after trying it a few times. I've now also tried:
1. USB delta update method - twice, with different size/speed USB sticks
2. USB full upgrade method - three times, with different size/speed USB sticks. Once using a windows machine to create the image, once with a Mac, and roofus and unetbootin. All get to "mounting /dev/usb" but then eventually boot into the game code instead of the updater. However, once it's in the normal bootloader it's too late for the full install anyway.
On a whim, I created a virtual machine on parallels and booted the image ... and it works. So the USB stick is good. Is there a chance the BIOS on the machine isn't set with USB as priority? I tried to test that theory by connecting a keyboard, but I can't get into the BIOS as it is password protected. I'm sure there is a jumper somewhere where I could reset everything and get past it, but that seems a bit extreme.
EDIT: I also tried a different USB port with the same results.
Any suggestions?

How is your USB stick formatted? (Ntfs, fat32, exfat, etc.). Make sure it's the same as what is required. I can't remember off the top of my head which one it is. Probably fat32.

#9019 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Maybe the computer experts here might have a better answer.
I doubt bios setting.
Myself, I think I'd save my settings on a separate usb stick. Then stick a new hard drive in there, and then try the full install.
LTG : )

I'd probably be considered a computer expert, but I haven't played around with JJP machines at that level (yet, I guess). I could replace the SSD ... and since that wouldn't be bootable it may fall back onto the USB. That's a thought. In fact I should try booting without the SSD and see what happens.

Quoted from daveyvandy:

How is your USB stick formatted? (Ntfs, fat32, exfat, etc.). Make sure it's the same as what is required. I can't remember off the top of my head which one it is. Probably fat32.

fat32, MBR.

#9020 6 months ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I’m trying to upgrade from 1.34 to 1.38 via the Internet. Image downloaded and verified quickly but the update has been hanging for 30 min so far. I suspect it will never finish. Anyone else?
[quoted image]

1/34 has a bug that prevents upgrades via Wifi. This was fixed in 1.35. You need to do the upgrade via USB. You can grab the delta upgrade file (which is what was downloaded via WiFi) and do the upgrade from the USB stick. Or do the whole image of 1.38 on a bootable USB drive, more of a pain to create the boot drive.

Snippet from V1.35 release notes.
=== Core Code
* fixed bug that caused games on v01.34 to not be able to update over wifi.
owners with games on that version can download the USB update from our
website to get the game to update

#9021 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Maybe the computer experts here might have a better answer.
I doubt bios setting.
Myself, I think I'd save my settings on a separate usb stick. Then stick a new hard drive in there, and then try the full install.
LTG : )

Quoted from chillme:

1/34 has a bug that prevents upgrades via Wifi. This was fixed in 1.35. You need to do the upgrade via USB. You can grab the delta upgrade file (which is what was downloaded via WiFi) and do the upgrade from the USB stick. Or do the whole image of 1.38 on a bootable USB drive, more of a pain to create the boot drive.
Snippet from V1.35 release notes.
=== Core Code
* fixed bug that caused games on v01.34 to not be able to update over wifi.
owners with games on that version can download the USB update from our
website to get the game to update

Already tried all of the above.

I just disconnected the SSD and it boots directly into the BIOS password screen. So I think I’m going to have to open a support case.

#9022 6 months ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Already tried all of the above.
I just disconnected the SSD and it boots directly into the BIOS password screen. So I think I’m going to have to open a support case.

Assuming your SSD is good try again from the Mac - you don't need any third party software if using a Mac.

8GB or 16GB formatted USB drives seem to work best. Download the full 1.38 update. Click and open the image from Finder, you'll see a window open with the contents of the image file. Simply drag and drop all of the files onto the USB drive. It should copy around 3.8GB of data across to the USB.

Then eject the USB drive, place it into the USB slot on the machine and power up. This is how I've done all of my JJP updates and it's worked 100% every time.

Good luck.

#9023 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Gi lighting and the spotlights are 5v on wonka. Been a while since I’ve checked that, but pretty sure it is.

So what’s the best way to tap into the gi? I’d hate to splice into a line but seems that would be best or...?

#9024 6 months ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

So what’s the best way to tap into the gi? I’d hate to splice into a line but seems that would be best or...?

I would tap into the back of one of the connectors. PinStadiums come with “wire taps”, which are about 3” of insulated wire with about 1/3” exposed on each end. One end forced/jammed into the back of a molex connector, the other folder over and alligator clipped to. I don’t think you have to splice.

#9025 6 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I would tap into the back of one of the connectors. PinStadiums come with “wire taps”, which are about 3” of insulated wire with about 1/3” exposed on each end. One end forced/jammed into the back of a molex connector, the other folder over and alligator clipped to. I don’t think you have to splice.

I've had the taps short before which caused a fuse to blow on the Wonka lighting board... which had to be sent to JJP to fix since it's a surface mount fuse. Instead I use these with great success:
amazon.com link »

#9026 6 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

I would tap into the back of one of the connectors. PinStadiums come with “wire taps”, which are about 3” of insulated wire with about 1/3” exposed on each end. One end forced/jammed into the back of a molex connector, the other folder over and alligator clipped to. I don’t think you have to splice.

Don’t do that, accident waiting to happen, can’t believe pinstadium does that. What if one of those backstabbed connections comes loose? The proper way is to buy the connectors and make a splitter.

#9027 6 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

I've had the taps short before which caused a fuse to blow on the Wonka lighting board... which had to be sent to JJP to fix since it's a surface mount fuse. Instead I use these with great success:
amazon.com link »

But the gi is rgb, how you going to use those to tap into the gi wiring? Four splices? If you just want steady power, use the coindoor connector or open connector in the backbox. I suppose you could use those splices for the spotlights.

#9028 6 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

I've had the taps short before which caused a fuse to blow on the Wonka lighting board... which had to be sent to JJP to fix since it's a surface mount fuse. Instead I use these with great success:
amazon.com link »

I just installed my Pinstadium lights on Wonka yesterday using these same taps. Worked perfectly.

#9029 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

But the gi is rgb, how you going to use those to tap into the gi wiring? Four splices? If you just want steady power, use the coindoor connector or open connector in the backbox. I suppose you could use those splices for the spotlights.

Yep, using the spotlight.

Quoted from rrosenhouse:

I just installed my Pinstadium lights on Wonka yesterday using these same taps. Worked perfectly.

Yeah for me it worked perfectly for a while, but you always risk those things just sliding out or shorting cuz it's not really a permanent fixture.

#9030 6 months ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Yep, using the spotlight.

Yeah for me it worked perfectly for a while, but you always risk those things just sliding out or shorting cuz it's not really a permanent fixture.

No,no... I used the T-Taps.

#9031 6 months ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

No,no... I used the T-Taps.

Oh my bad, it helps if I read

#9032 6 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:Don’t do that, accident waiting to happen, can’t believe pinstadium does that. What if one of those backstabbed connections comes loose? The proper way is to buy the connectors and make a splitter.

You guys are right I don’t think it’s ideal and maybe I’m on borrower time until something craps out from a short.

Quoted from daveyvandy:

I've had the taps short before which caused a fuse to blow on the Wonka lighting board... which had to be sent to JJP to fix since it's a surface mount fuse. Instead I use these with great success:
amazon.com link »

If these are considered acceptable, I’m going to give these a try. Do they damage the original wire (if removed)? Or I guess you’d just remove the connector and leave the T on the wire.

#9033 6 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

You guys are right I don’t think it’s ideal and maybe I’m on borrower time until something craps out from a short.

If these are considered acceptable, I’m going to give these a try. Do they damage the original wire (if removed)? Or I guess you’d just remove the connector and leave the T on the wire.

Yeah if you want to take them off, just leave the clamped part on the original wire. This is about as clean as you can do except if you made an adapter harness, which is overkill unless you are a mod supplier.

#9034 6 months ago

LTG What is your recommended way to access the Wonkavision scoop? Do you need to remove the Wonkavision LCD monitor to access it? I am going to put the Cliffy protector on it and I don't see a way to do it without removing the Wonkavision monitor. Thanks Lloyd!

#9035 6 months ago
Quoted from chewiec:

What is your recommended way to access the Wonkavision scoop? Do you need to remove the Wonkavision LCD

Yes.

LTG : )

#9036 6 months ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

You guys are right I don’t think it’s ideal and maybe I’m on borrower time until something craps out from a short.

If these are considered acceptable, I’m going to give these a try. Do they damage the original wire (if removed)? Or I guess you’d just remove the connector and leave the T on the wire.

I would leave the T in place, if you ever decide to remove the Pinstadiums (or other mods).

#9037 6 months ago

Is there a plastic screen protector on the in game monitor (wonkavision) ? It has a few shallow scratches and not sure what options I have. Thanks!

Nick

#9038 6 months ago

Finally hit PURE IMAGINATION!

Such an awesome game!

#9039 6 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Is there a plastic screen protector on the in game monitor (wonkavision) ?
Nick

Yes

#9040 6 months ago

You've lifted my heart friend....thanks

#9041 6 months ago

Been catching up on 400 posts in this thread. Such good reading. Stepped away from my WW for a bit, can’t wait to fire it up especially with the new (to me) beta available.

Anyone know where ZAPHX went? He’s brought so much to this thread with video and tips. Noticed, as I was reading two months of posts, his status changed to “inactive.”

67D6B3AD-E1C7-4538-A3E4-3406EDC3B514 (resized).jpeg
#9042 6 months ago
Quoted from Goyomex:

Anyone know where ZAPHX went?

Left Pinside.

Hope he's okay.

LTG : )

#9043 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Left Pinside.
Hope he's okay.
LTG : )

Spoke with him a bit on Facebook. He is taking a break from the negativity. Hope he makes his way back to us as well.

#9044 6 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Spoke with him a bit on Facebook. He is taking a break from the negativity. Hope he makes his way back to us as well.

People put themselves out there to do nice things for people and send positive messages and there are always haters and people who want to bring people down. Its a shame and I hope he is back too...I purchased my WW CE because of his videos!

#9045 6 months ago
Quoted from DaddyManD:

People put themselves out there to do nice things for people and send positive messages and there are always haters and people who want to bring people down. Its a shame and I hope he is back too...I purchased my WW CE because of his videos!

Great guy, I purchased POTC and Wonka based on his videos and messaging with him. His guides and PM’s helped me set them up and dial them in. Wish him well, hope he returns!

#9046 6 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:

Spoke with him a bit on Facebook. He is taking a break from the negativity. Hope he makes his way back to us as well.

Agreed!

His wonka walkthroughs are a “must view” and honestly helped me pull the trigger on mine.

Not sure what negativity chased him away, but I do hope he returns as he is an asset to this community!

#9047 6 months ago
Quoted from SBrothers:

Agreed!
His wonka walkthroughs are a “must view” and honestly helped me pull the trigger on mine.
Not sure what negativity chased him away, but I do hope he returns as he is an asset to this community!

His walkthroughs were great! His enthusiasm was great! His JJP fanboy grew thin and his treatment of guys with playfield issues was terrible. Take the good with the bad but I wish he was back to. Surprised he left seemed like he had thick enough skin to handle any heat.

#9048 6 months ago
Quoted from paulbaptise:Spoke with him a bit on Facebook. He is taking a break from the negativity. Hope he makes his way back to us as well.

Why would anyone be negative towards him? He was always very friendly and helpful...

#9049 6 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Why would anyone be negative towards him? He was always very friendly and helpful...

SO helpful. His videos on Wonka are so great. Wish he did Pirates. Any Zaphx level how to videos for Pirates???
Hope he comes back soon.

#9050 6 months ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Why would anyone be negative towards him? He was always very friendly and helpful...

Some people just like to be mean and keep it up.

LTG : (

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