http://www.passionforpinball.com/switchslot.htm
IMG_1801 (resized).jpegQuoted from djsolzs:Curious what people have their flippers set to?
For reference -
Trough VUK 14
Left Flipper 20
Right Flipper 19
Upper Right Flipper 16
Upper Left Flipper 18
Left and Right Slingshot 35
Everything else is default. I wish the sling would go a little lower like GnR, although I guess I can also just play better
Quoted from DaddyManD:my upper left flipper has been "sticking" in up position at times.
Coil stop loose ? Spring borked ?
LTG : )
Thank you for this I’ll check it out - also changing gobstopper lock as LTG mentioned is a must
Quoted from Tdavis7965:For reference -
Trough VUK 14
Left Flipper 20
Right Flipper 19
Upper Right Flipper 16
Upper Left Flipper 18
Left and Right Slingshot 35
Everything else is default. I wish the sling would go a little lower like GnR, although I guess I can also just play better
I picked up a Willy Wonka machine about a month ago and I've really struggled with the gobstopper switch always getting stuck in the open state. It doesn't matter how I bent the arm of the switch, it would eventually end up stuck open. I ended up 3D printing an extremely simple fix to prevent the arm from raising up too high and I haven't had a single issue since installing it.
I put it up on thingiverse for anyone else that wants to give it a try.
Quoted from zaphX:I recommend 2 of the generic slot protectors from Cliffy, as those slots tend to get beaten up pretty badly by the ball drops.
Install them open side DOWN to avoid stuck balls.
I installed mine open up, get the rare stuck ball, ugh, not like easy to lift up either.
Quoted from kermit24:Has anyone besides LTG been able to get WiFi to connect and Scorbit working?
I have the wifi and scorbit working well. Have not tried the Bluetooth.
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:I installed mine open up, get the rare stuck ball, ugh, not like easy to lift up either.
You can do it! I did the same thing and sawing dental floss got them up to where I could flip them around.
Quoted from kermit24:Has anyone besides LTG been able to get WiFi to connect and Scorbit working?
Have WiFi working and Scorbit shows active. Took me 3 attempts at finding WiFi dongle that worked. This one works for me (thanks to zaphX): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K11UIV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00
Even tho Scorbit shows active in maintenance menu and I can do the QR scan from game to app, I can never get past waiting to start in the Scorbit app to add a player.
Same here. I have the same setup as LTG. Usb hub with 4 ports. Plugged in to usb at coin door. Wireless connected no problem. Everything works.
Haven’t tried Bluetooth but I can see “Willy Wonka...” on Bluetooth settings on my phone. Might give it a shot tonight just need to read instructions on gnr manual.
Quoted from crobby:I have the wifi and scorbit working well. Have not tried the Bluetooth.
Quoted from DeeGor:I picked up a Willy Wonka machine about a month ago and I've really struggled with the gobstopper switch always getting stuck in the open state. It doesn't matter how I bent the arm of the switch, it would eventually end up stuck open. I ended up 3D printing an extremely simple fix to prevent the arm from raising up too high and I haven't had a single issue since installing it.
I put it up on thingiverse for anyone else that wants to give it a try.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803035
[quoted image]
Huge PIA that switch. I ended up fixing with a combination of bending the leaf and rotating the whole switch. Took a bit of trial and error but haven’t had an issue since. Surprised JJP hasn’t issued a fix for that......then again doesn’t surprise me at all.
Quoted from cooked71:Huge PIA that switch. I ended up fixing with a combination of bending the leaf and rotating the whole switch. Took a bit of trial and error but haven’t had an issue since. Surprised JJP hasn’t issued a fix for that......then again doesn’t surprise me at all.
Yeah, I tried bending the arm, rotating the switch, using electrical tape, etc... Nothing worked other than this little 3D print.
Quoted from Beez:I ORDERED A WW CE TODAY ... CAN’T WAIT FOR IT TO ARRIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Who still has them, game is so awesome for non pinheads and pinheads may wrap one up for an investment.
Quoted from JohnTTwo:Who still has them, game is so awesome for non pinheads and pinheads may wrap one up for an investment.
I bought the last one cointaker had ... not sure who else has them. Can’t wait, super excited!!
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:My LE came with 1.33, do I download and install the full version of 1.35 to update ?
Full Install only. Delta is for 1.34 to 1.35
Back up your settings in case you want to save anything.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Full Install only. Delta is for 1.34 to 1.35
Back up your settings in case you want to save anything.
LTG : )
Thanks LTG! Went smoothly
Quoted from zaphX:You can do it! I did the same thing and sawing dental floss got them up to where I could flip them around.
Great call I started with a small flathead and realized that was not a great idea. I’ll try when I get back home.
Quoted from cooked71:Huge PIA that switch. I ended up fixing with a combination of bending the leaf and rotating the whole switch. Took a bit of trial and error but haven’t had an issue since. Surprised JJP hasn’t issued a fix for that......then again doesn’t surprise me at all.
That 3D print solved the issue completely for me with a little tinkering.
Quoted from Beez:I ORDERED A WW CE TODAY ... CAN’T WAIT FOR IT TO ARRIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You won’t be disappointed.
Quoted from kermit24:Has anyone besides LTG been able to get WiFi to connect and Scorbit working?
I have gotten that to work as well as bluetooth. Honestly, I don't recommend either. Bluetooth lags like it always does and I can't stand to play with delayed sound. If I'm using headphones, they are wired.
Scorbit is just meh. When it works (which is hit and miss), it's just a glorified leaderboard. I really don't see the point at all. It could be a lot cooler, but for now it's pretty useless IMO.
Modding Mods!!! Was snowed in last week in Denver so I took some time and modified a couple tasteful mods in my Wonka. Just thought I would share. I might try changing the Factory smoke stacks to color changing RGB's for a unique twist.
Quoted from NightTrain:I have gotten that to work as well as bluetooth. Honestly, I don't recommend either. Bluetooth lags like it always does and I can't stand to play with delayed sound. If I'm using headphones, they are wired.
Scorbit is just meh. When it works (which is hit and miss), it's just a glorified leaderboard. I really don't see the point at all. It could be a lot cooler, but for now it's pretty useless IMO.
There are ways that you can use Scorbit to have a live game with friends. You can create a live scoreboard with up to 8 connected machines at a time.
It’s pretty cool, but it needs to be easier to do for the average dude.
Really cool for tournaments and streams.
Quoted from knightgdg:Modding Mods!!! Was snowed in last week in Denver so I took some time and modified a couple tasteful mods in my Wonka. Just thought I would share. I might try changing the Factory smoke stacks to color changing RGB's for a unique twist.
LOVE IT
Quoted from HarryReimer:LOVE IT
Quoted from HarryReimer:How did you fit leds in there? And where did you get the power?
I used 5mm 12V LED's. On the Factory, I drilled a hole (the same size as the existing smoke/cotton mounting hole) down thru and out the bottom. The hole just needs to be big enough for the wire to go through but small enough that the LED stays at the top. I powered all the LED's from an existing 12V power feeding my Wonkavator Mod (from the Mod Couple). The smoke is just a piece of a cotton ball.
Quoted from knightgdg:I used 5mm 12V LED's. On the Factory, I drilled a hole (the same size as the existing smoke/cotton mounting hole) down thru and out the bottom. The hole just needs to be big enough for the wire to go through but small enough that the LED stays at the top. I powered all the LED's from an existing 12V power feeding my Wonkavator Mod (from the Mod Couple). The smoke is just a piece of a cotton ball.
How did you get them to flicker ?
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:How did you get them to flicker ?
The LED's flickering is built-in. No controller required.
Quoted from knightgdg:I used 5mm 12V LED's. On the Factory, I drilled a hole (the same size as the existing smoke/cotton mounting hole) down thru and out the bottom. The hole just needs to be big enough for the wire to go through but small enough that the LED stays at the top. I powered all the LED's from an existing 12V power feeding my Wonkavator Mod (from the Mod Couple). The smoke is just a piece of a cotton ball.
Is there another way to route the wire without drilling? Did you drill through the playfield?
Quoted from Tdavis7965:Is there another way to route the wire without drilling? Did you drill through the playfield?
No, you only have to drill thru the two smokestacks of the factory mod. The two smokestack LED wires tie together under the factory and then a single pair of wire follows the existing factory diverter wiring path down and thru an existing opening in the playfield.
Quoted from DeeGor:I picked up a Willy Wonka machine about a month ago and I've really struggled with the gobstopper switch always getting stuck in the open state. It doesn't matter how I bent the arm of the switch, it would eventually end up stuck open. I ended up 3D printing an extremely simple fix to prevent the arm from raising up too high and I haven't had a single issue since installing it.
I put it up on thingiverse for anyone else that wants to give it a try.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4803035
[quoted image]
Gobstopper switch is the only thing that continues to give me issues on my machine. Don't have a 3D printer, but I think I can take a tiny block of wood and my Dremel and craft something similar (appreciate at least seeing what the part looks like, thx for sharing this info!). OR maybe this is the reason I "need" to get a 3D printer, hmmmm....
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Gobstopper switch is the only thing that continues to give me issues on my machine. Don't have a 3D printer, but I think I can take a tiny block of wood and my Dremel and craft something similar (appreciate at least seeing what the part looks like, thx for sharing this info!). OR maybe this is the reason I "need" to get a 3D printer, hmmmm....
Seriously, you really don't need to add anything.
Just fold some e-tape and jam it into the switch body where the arm is coming out.
You will probably find that it's loose and floppy.
I used a very small flathead for this. Once you do this, the switch arm will now be firm enough that you can adjust it to the correct sensitivity and it will no longer flop above the actuator.
Quoted from zaphX:Seriously, you really don't need to add anything.
Just fold some e-tape and jam it into the switch body where the arm is coming out.
You will probably find that it's loose and floppy.
I used a very small flathead for this. Once you do this, the switch arm will now be firm enough that you can adjust it to the correct sensitivity and it will no longer flop above the actuator.
Brilliant, thank you sir and much appreciate you sharing the photo as well.
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Brilliant, thank you sir and much appreciate you sharing the photo as well.
No problem - I did this as a temporary fix, 1.5 years and 8000+ plays later it still works
Interesting, my SE (July 2019 build) was fine, but the CE (Nov 2019 build) had this fault, along with other CEs. Maybe a bad run of switches, maybe someone hamfisting them during install and breaking loose something inside the switch body. Who knows.
Anyone else's Wonka Factory tower getting knocked around and twisted? Last week, I took apart the plastic that the tower is mounted to and re-secured the screws underneath it holding it on the plastic. One week later the screws came out again. That baby nearly spins around when I hit factory target! Also tried double sided tape but not holding. Not a major issue more of a nuisance but wondering if anyone else has this happening.
Quoted from DaddyManD:Anyone else's Wonka Factory tower getting knocked around and twisted? Last week, I took apart the plastic that the tower is mounted to and re-secured the screws underneath it holding it on the plastic. One week later the screws came out again. That baby nearly spins around when I hit factory target! Also tried double sided tape but not holding. Not a major issue more of a nuisance but wondering if anyone else has this happening.
Loctite the screws? I had one drop too but it stayed put after I replaced it.
Quoted from zaphX:No problem - I did this as a temporary fix, 1.5 years and 8000+ plays later it still works
Interesting, my SE (July 2019 build) was fine, but the CE (Nov 2019 build) had this fault, along with other CEs. Maybe a bad run of switches, maybe someone hamfisting them during install and breaking loose something inside the switch body. Who knows.
Cant recall how much room is there, but all JJP need to do is put a longer roll leaf on the switch.
Quoted from cooked71:Cant recall how much room is there, but all JJP need to do is put a longer roll leaf on the switch.
Could be. In my fault the issue was caused by bounce/flop in the arm rather than reach.
Quoted from naf_llabnip:Brilliant, thank you sir and much appreciate you sharing the photo as well.
If the electrical tape doesn't work out, let me know I'll print one up and send it to you.
Quoted from zaphX:Could be. In my fault the issue was caused by bounce/flop in the arm rather than reach.
I think the bounce is just the nature of these switches - and clearly the tape is one solution. But a longer leaf should ensure that when it bounces it doesnt jump over the edge of the metal bit - thats why the 3d printed part works.
Im assuming that what is installed is the standard length and they didnt want to custom make a longer one.
I’m having an intermittent problem with a ball getting stuck in the back left corner of the game. Under the Wonkavator assembly. I’ll plunge a ball with will hit a pop bumper and shoot back there and gets stuck. Nudging or shaking the game won’t knock it loose. When anther ball plunges it frees the ball. If I lift the playfield while the ball is back there it seems to move freely then comes out after I lower the playfield. Any ideas?
Quick Scorbit app update: v1.0.24 Release
In addition to many bug fixes, two important feature changes:
1. Any leaderboard created with ScorbitVision will now appear in the Waiting to Start game session screens (and leaderboard viewing screens) if they are associated with the machine you're viewing, public, and created/owned by the person who owns the machine. For example, you could create a leaderboard for a machine specific to your local pinball league for a machine, make it public, and now anyone playing will see that leaderboard in the carousel while waiting to play.
2. If you open the app or return to the home screen from within a venue and have location set up properly, the app will launch with the machine list for that venue. This is particularly useful for home users which are always in the same venue (their house) and want to skip the venue list. There will be more controls over the venues and venue listing in the next release.
v1.0.24 Release Notes:
-Various performance improvements and bug fixes
-Corrects Android WiFi pairing bug for some OS/hardware combinations
-App will now launch inside a venue if you're standing in it by default.
-Tapping machine title leaderboard icons now takes you to larger leaderboard view.
-Added public custom leaderboards from ScorbitVision to game screens (useful for pinball leagues!)
-Fixed a pairing bug that caused install to get stuck
-Fixed searching for venues with apostrophes
Quoted from Kenz:Yes the flipper flutters when you hold it in. Not all the time though. Just started doing it with this code..
Ok weird. I got the same thing tonight when I updated my GnR code to 1.19! Left flipper flutters on occasion. I figured mechanical in some way. Now I am wondering if it could be code somehow? Likely coincidence I guess. Strange coincidence on two newly updated jjp games eh?!
Quoted from jsa:Quick Scorbit app update: v1.0.24 Release
[quoted image]
In addition to many bug fixes, two important feature changes:
1. Any leaderboard created with ScorbitVision will now appear in the Waiting to Start game session screens (and leaderboard viewing screens) if they are associated with the machine you're viewing, public, and created/owned by the person who owns the machine. For example, you could create a leaderboard for a machine specific to your local pinball league for a machine, make it public, and now anyone playing will see that leaderboard in the carousel while waiting to play.
2. If you open the app or return to the home screen from within a venue and have location set up properly, the app will launch with the machine list for that venue. This is particularly useful for home users which are always in the same venue (their house) and want to skip the venue list. There will be more controls over the venues and venue listing in the next release.
v1.0.24 Release Notes:
-Various performance improvements and bug fixes
-Corrects Android WiFi pairing bug for some OS/hardware combinations
-App will now launch inside a venue if you're standing in it by default.
-Tapping machine title leaderboard icons now takes you to larger leaderboard view.
-Added public custom leaderboards from ScorbitVision to game screens (useful for pinball leagues!)
-Fixed a pairing bug that caused install to get stuck
-Fixed searching for venues with apostrophes
So how does one update the scorbit app?
Latest version (1.0.24) doesn’t show on the App Store and I can’t find an “update software” selection in the app on my iPhone.
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