It makes sense when you get a SDTM drain after a gobstopper reject...lol

SE or LE or CE?

Wow - NIB LE @12,500 now

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I'm glad it worked for you. I don't like bending things if I can help it so this is what I came up with. It's worked 100% since I made it and installed it.

zaphX
The pinsider that posted his issue didn't say he is having the common problem that we are familiar with. He's flat out saying it doesn't work anymore. I posted the photo(that I grabbed from a few pages back) because I can't see in his photos if the roller end is there or not. In the photo it looks as if the silver armature might be there but it appears to be laying flat on the black switch. If it's not there it may have snapped off or it could be bent under the flat metal making it register as bad or forced closed or physically broken like the matrix says. I want him to verify that the arm is still intact and then we can go from there. I'm basing my initial assistance on the fact he stated it's broke and doesn't register at all any more and his pictures. His picture doesn't show the roller stuck above the flat metal like we are all used to seeing. What it shows is a constant error message telling me the switch is remaining closed or broken, which does not coincide with his pictures. I'm also making the assumption he is not familiar with the known issue and hasn't read 150 prior pages, so your suggestion might be lost on him as he'd have no idea what you are talking about. I may be wrong on all of my suggestions but want them to start small and go from there. Hope that made sense.
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Mike

I posted about this before, but my NIB SE arrived earlier this month with "born on date" Feb of 2020. Perfect shape, playfield has zero issues (and I read all of the posts on this forum and have seen the pictures of pooling / etc ... which honestly didn't look THAT bad to me, but I totally get wanting to make sure that the issues don't get worse over time). I was ready to fight the playfield battle, but it looks amazing and literally I couldn't find a darned thing to complain about. So I have been enjoying the mod bug and just having a blast with the thing!

I have a Wonka CE, the sensor for the Most Secret machine has stopped recognizing hits at all. I have run diagnostics and it shows that there is an error, but I have checked connections and see nothing loose that could be causing an issue. I am thinking that the switch or an opto is bad. Can anyone take a look at these pics and advise me on the next steps. Wife loves to play and any game being down is like I am failing in my duties. Please advise! Thanks ahead of time.

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It’s showing the error is that switch on the gobstopper bracket. Have you tried to adjust/repair it as others have noted? Mine had the same issue as did others. Just need to focus on that switch arm or switch not the wiring. When you push the blue rubber pad you should hear the switch clicking.

Please check last page. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/151#post-6142665
We've been answering you with some suggestions.
And yes, the switch clicking is a good one to listen for. Good call @yelobird.
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Mike

duplicate post. couldn't delete.

Looking at buying a Wonka CE NIB, any one know how common are play field issues on those machines? Is it better to just try to wait and find an HUO used?

Just got one of the last; CE’s out their time to celebrate
Can’t wait to get it

Not sure if your Looking for one or asking but #Drfrightner on the forum is a JJP distributor in St Louis just said today that he had 2. Good luck. Just got our CE a few weeks ago and Love it!!!

My NIB CE is coming Sunday morning! Whew just made it!

MotorCityPinball is streaming Wonka with live temperature gauges and uncooled flipper coils for a baseline temp test right now:

https://www.twitch.tv/motorcitypinball

Lower left flipper is currently at 176F and he's having trouble with the ramp shot.

Cooled flippers is tomorrow.
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Where is the discount code for these coil coolers?

Where do you order them from?

The jjp ones aren't out yet. These streamers have the final pre release units.

Should be in the pinmonk store on pinside and on pinmonk.com in about 10 days. Spike and spooky kits are already out.

How much play time does it take until the flippers start to fade?

Depends on your play style, but usually somewhere between 30-45 minutes in most cases. Some get hot very quickly (Stranger Things, jjGnR, Rick n Morty), and others take their time (Avengers AIQ, TMNT), but almost all modern pins have fade within a 2 hour window. The only one that doesn't so far is Spike Star Wars.

Pinside discount code?

Okay so I’m about to join the club next week I got one of the last CE’s available; the most money I have ever spent on a pinball; any other CE owners out their and if so how sweet is the CE? Wonka seems to be the best game that JJP that I have played and I played them all

I may be a bit biased because Wonka is one of my favorite films, but I think it's the best JJP game by a mile. Having full assets just makes it amazing. The layout is smooth as butter and the code gives you so many ways to play and shoot around that I never get bored.
I think gnr is a great game but I'm just not a huge fan of their music so while I appreciate the game itself the theme is lost on me.
Pirates was so meh with the lack of assets. I think the game is beautiful but loses the world under glass experience for me.
Dialed in is an amazing machine as well but the theme is super lame.
I just hope they give toy story the gnr or wonka asset treatment and don't cheap out. My kids and I love all the films and it will be an instant buy.

I was noticing a fade starting at after 30 minutes. The shots to the right ramp from the left flipper were noticeably harder to make, and it got worse from there!

Are you streaming with the cooling mod today?

I cannot agree with you more. I have 2 nieces that came over to spend the night. I have 28 games in the game room. They were fighting over playing the Wonka. I told my wife, If I only had space for one machine, It would be WONKA.
I sold my GNR LE last week to make room for TStory.

Yes, streaming with the cooling fans today at 4pm EST on https://www.twitch.tv/motorcitypinball

Once they are all gone I could see this game starting to go up to Pirates levels price wise.

They didnt make a ton and its by far the best JJP game and its finding is audience late as games do sometimes.

Where is the Pinside discount code to purchase these?

Everyone gets it! The "code" is free shipping, which you get automatically. The JJP kits will be available the first week in March. Beta tests with the JJP machines has most testers with temps under 100F unless they trap up a lot, in which case it's around 120F on the hottest coil at peak. Karl Deangelo (iepinball) is streaming jjPotC this morning (right now) with the JJP Tibetan Breeze installed and temp displays on screen.

Did some Saturday wrenching on the Wonka. Moved the left outer post up and moved the black plastic plug down lower. Replaced the inner metal post rubber with a cap rubber and the ball still passes through all three lanes just fine. Also removed all flipper coils and cleaned plunger assemblies, stops and replaced plunger sleeves.

Going to order a full Titan rubber kit and iron repair the pooling around the sling and other posts soon. I already have the Titan silicon spacers, PinMonk Mylar circles and new colored sling star posts ready to install. Which colored star posts look good on the LE? The six clear factory posts look boring.

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Can you share how the Hell you got that black plug out? I'm guessing drill is the option but hoped there was an easier way. Looks good!

A method was mentioned a few pages back that I used to remove mine. From the underside of the playfield, use a drill bit, with a hammer, drive it up. The plug moved up enough that I could pull it out. Ended up being easy and no damage to the playfield.

When I had the white rubber on the center post, I had some days where the ball would pass through just fine, and other days where it would constantly get stuck. I figured it was probably due to the playfield wood flexing back and forth overtime and I just leave the rubber off now. But now I should use your method now. It never feels right having the ball hit bare metal

MotorCityPinball is streaming Wonka with live temp gauges and fans on the coils right now to collect cooled temp data:

https://www.twitch.tv/motorcitypinball

EDIT: He's currently much higher than the #1 reported score on pinside and doing Pure Imagination now.

Finished with a score north of 45 Million - double the reported Wonka HS on the pinside list.

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Here's my post. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/148#post-6112731
and it's exactly like chillme said. Drill bit to use as a punch tool. You won't actually be drilling anything. Flip the bit and use the chuck smooth side. Not too small, not too big. I wanted a flat end so it would slip right or left of the plug and damage the threads. A nail set or too small a bit would probably slip and be frustrating. Grab a hammer and tap tap tap until it finally gets passed the detent. It's a christmas tree plug so just keep tapping til it moves up. Once it does keep tapping until it is almost out and grab it from the top and wiggle it out.
I wanted to swap the plug with the post exactly as the picture above.
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Mike

That has to be a typo. LE’s are all sold out. Only a few CE’s left

You just tap it out from the bottom of the playfield with a drill bit and hammer. I thought the plug was steel, but it’s just plastic. Thanks

I just printed this today and this may be more of a 3D printing tech support question, but thought I’d ask... Mine printed (looks great) on a flat layer of plastic (as a base) that is proving to be a pain in the butt to get off, and now that I have it off, I can’t get the printed piece to fit. Maybe it’s just a matter of shaving it back more (ran out of time between shuttling kids around to weekend youth sports), but will try more tonight unless there is an option to print without the base layer somewhere. I have the Ender 3 Pro, putting the file onto the MicroSd from the software it came with. Thanks!!

Accidentally drunk ordered the Hallmark Wonka decoration. Was surprised when it arrived but even more surprised that I only paid $45.

It fits perfect on the plastic right behind the pop bumper and also serves to hide some of the black wire loom all of the curve of that ramp.

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do you mean you printed it on a raft? any chance you could throw up a photo. it's my design so you have me curious.
it wasn't made with a base layer or any separate pieces. it's all one piece so I'm a little confused.
r/
Mike

I did print it on a raft, the first one (i learned that term and brim since I posted my first message!). And I carved up the underside enough to where it fits but really tight. Then printed it with “brim” and still too small to fit on. As I’m turning in, im printing it at 1.05X on X,Y and same size one Z. I’m new to it so I don’t mind printing the same thing a couple times. First two pics are the brim which came out fine (but still too small to fit on), last one (I’m holding) is the first one I printed on a raft (and then went at it with sharp objects!). How do you attach your 3D print to the piece on the gobstopper? Do you use any adhesive or tight enough to snap/stay on?

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mine actually snapped on and hasn't moved. pure luck it worked out like that. I'm no designer. I had planned on using very thin double sided tape put around the underside and cut so it wouldn't be seen.
I suggest printing with supports(touching build plate only) so your underside overhang is smoother. the key to supports and rafts are the settings for ease of removal.
If you can get it to snap on there tight i'd prefer that over tape now that mine has been on there some time.
I use Cura slicer not what came with my ender 3 pro.
Cura is much easier to manipulate for me and very user friendly.
If you want to take this to PM with any questions I'll be happy to assist as much as possible to get the settings where they need to be.
I'm assuming you are using a .4 nozzle and .2 layer height. a smaller nozzle and maybe .12 or .10 layer height would get you better results with the lettering.
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Mike

I agree, thanks Mike. I'm learning to 3d print, and I think that has a lot to do with it. The brim is the better choice, as it snaps off really easily and the rest is clean. I'll take to PM once I get some results. As predicted the 5% bigger on the X,Y axis makes it just a hair too big, fits great, but will need tape to hold it on. I think the tight fit is the way to go. Just have to get it on, once! Not perfect (my painting leaves a little bit to be desired), but working so far. Thanks for your work on this!

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I think it looks great! Happy to help any way I can with 3d printing questions. I haven't been doing it that long either, but have learned some stuff.
Great colors too.
r/
Mike

I can hear the switch clicking when you actuate the switch with the lever. Here is a better pic. I cannot see anything physically wrong with the switch area, or with the solders near it. No issues noted below the PF either. New advise? I am about to leave town and am likely going to have to send the tech in unless I can find a quick fix by Monday. See pics attached. Ty!

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Joined the club on Friday. Barely made it. Got the last SE from Automated Services. Been fun couple days getting everything setup and trying to figure out the rules. Still a lot to learn. This is my first JJP game. Cannot believe all the features. Next is a shaker motor and some additional lighting for the upper playfield. I like my games well lit.

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Woke up this morning craving chocolate and this happened, CE 107 in the house

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Hey guys my game is acting weird at that magnet ball shot from the left
Flipper , the magnet keeps holding the ball until it goes into ball search any ideas ?

I dont think so, thanks for the advice, but everything was perfectly fine until right now And after ball search mode, the magnet finally releases the ball.