(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

2 years ago


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“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 130 votes
    27%
  • Limited Edition 240 votes
    50%
  • Collectors Edition 112 votes
    23%

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#7501 8 months ago

From page E-9 of instruction manual (found online as my Wonka is being shipped!). Can't figure out how to take a screenshot but there is also a diagram:
1) There are two pre-drilled mounting holes in the playfield for a mini post, near the left outlane (circled in red in figure E10). The post can be repositioned (or removed altogether) to make the game play more or less liberally/con- servatively. The most liberal post position is the highest (furthest from the player) of the two holes (making it more difficult for the ball to get to the left outlane). When the post is moved closer to the inlane/outlane divider, the game will play more conservatively (making it easier for the ball to get to the left outlane). The most conservative adjust- ment is to remove the post altogether. This is how the game ships from the factory, with the post removed. You will find it in the cashbox "goodies" bag. See the mini post removal or installation instructions below. Optional plastic plugs are provided for the unused hole(s) in the playfield.
2) The dual rubber, steel adjusting post near the right outlane (circled in blue in figure E10) can be repositioned (or removed altogether) to make the game play more or less liberally/conservatively. There is a mounting slot routed in the playfield. The most liberal post position is the lowest (closest to the player) in the slot (making it more difficult for the ball to get to the right outlane). As the adjusting post is moved further from the player, the game will play more conservatively (making it easier for the ball to get to the right outlane). The most conservative adjustment is to remove the post altogether. See the adjusting post repositioning/removal or installation instructions below.
3) The steel mini post, near the right outlane (circled in green in figure E10) can be repositioned (or removed alto- gether) to make the game play more or less liberally/conservatively. There is a mounting slot routed in the playfield. The most liberal post position is the lowest (closest to the player) in the slot (making it more difficult for the ball to get to the right outlane). As the mini post is moved further from the player, the game will play more conservatively (making it easier for the ball to get to the right outlane). The most conservative adjustment is to remove the post altogether. See the mini post repositioning/removal or installation instructions below.

#7502 8 months ago

Here is the picture

D24D94AF-A9DA-4669-AFFA-EA10772D77E6 (resized).jpeg
#7503 8 months ago

Anyone have used mods for sale for this game before I buy some new stuff?

#7504 8 months ago
Quoted from Leachdude:

Anyone have used mods for sale for this game before I buy some new stuff?

I have the Mezel complete factory mod for sale, posted earlier in this thread. $75 shipped in US

#7505 8 months ago
Quoted from rodcom:

Here is the picture[quoted image]

Thanks DaddyManD and rodcom, yep good info to know from the manual (if all else fails, read the directions, still working on that one!). Since I plan on keeping this game for good, I decided to bump my "cheat post" on the left to the lower instead of upper position. Funny enough the ball clears for me with the rubber slid up on the post for the center-lane divider (so I still have rubber on both posts, I know that is not the experience of others but works on my machine although just barely). And funny enough for my very first ball to test I doubled my previous high scoring game, go figure. Just loving the game, now fully going down the mod path.

#7506 8 months ago
Quoted from naf_llabnip:

Thanks daddymand and rodcom, yep good info to know from the manual (if all else fails, read the directions, still working on that one!). Since I plan on keeping this game for good, I decided to bump my "cheat post" on the left to the lower instead of upper position. Funny enough the ball clears for me with the rubber slid up on the post for the center-lane divider (so I still have rubber on both posts, I know that is not the experience of others but works on my machine although just barely). And funny enough for my very first ball to test I doubled my previous high scoring game, go figure. Just loving the game, now fully going down the mod path.

No worries at all. Glad to hear the rubbers work for you. I did a little trimming and that seemed to work. What mods you getting?

#7507 8 months ago

Posting this in case it can help others. So the first mod that I ordered for the game was a set of pinblades (well, actually PinGraffix which I bought via eBay). I read on the forums how to install these, and watched videos, and to say I was concerned about getting a clean install is an understatement. But somewhere earlier I read a post by somebody who said they simply removed the entire playfield, didn't have to disconnect anything, and that they (with help) set it on sawhorses right to the side of the machine and then had full easy access to the inside of the cabinet.

I paid close attention to the margins on either side of the playfield, and they literally scrape when raising and lowering the playfield (not the actual playfield sides, but the upper clear ramps on the left side of the machine drag the edges, and there isn't any way to adjust those to get out of the way). I saw the solutions for the plastic shields you can insert each time you raise the playfield, but felt those were pricey and was not confident I could even squeeze them in. Plus just one more thing to worry about and store somewhere. I saw another post from someone who lined the edges of their playfield with felt, so I went that route. Plus I lined the edges of the plastic ramps so they would slide smoothly.

Since my wife has bad back trouble at the moment (due to trying to help me get the machine upstairs), I "had" to figure out how to remove the playfield by myself, and found a super easy solution. I propped up the front of the machine to lessen the angle a bit. Then I raised the playfield up and set the front overhanging the front of the machine. But on the back, I wrapped a towel around a board, simply lifted the end of the playfield up high, slid the board underneath the rails below the playfield so the playfield just sat on top of the machine, giving full access to the inside of the cabinet (and made SURE it was on sturdy and would not slide down or to the side). Then it was super easy to install the blades, didn't need to mess with Windex or anything, just lined 'em up, used painters tape to hang them in position, and then undid the backing and installed them. The type I purchased were great about being able to lightly stick, then pull up, then adjust until I had them perfect, then I just used my hand to press them in and iron out any bubbles and they turned out perfect. While the playfield was up I used the 3/4" felt tape and lined the entire machine (every surface edge that could possibly scrape the sides), lowered the playfield back in, and it slides in and lifts up smooth as butter, nothing binding, nothing scraping. Took me about 30 minutes taking my time for the whole operation. Anyway, there are different ways to do this, but this method sure worked well for me. I LOVE the blades, and it feels like it helps brighten things up just a tad as well. The quality of the blades is very good, fairly thick vinyl feeling, had precut holes for the hinge bolts, and look better in person than the pictures.

IMG_3036 (resized).JPGIMG_3037 (resized).JPGIMG_3039 (resized).JPGIMG_3046 (resized).JPGIMG_3051 (resized).JPG

#7508 8 months ago

What are you all replacing those three white rubber post bumpers with? These white rubbers get dirty right away and don’t look very good IMO. Any suggestions are welcome.

FCB00BB6-C3BF-4797-A3B3-7D8CBFA516F3 (resized).jpeg
#7509 8 months ago

Saw this today.

84F1EFFE-D76E-495E-853C-ABA3D811D9BB (resized).jpeg
#7510 8 months ago
Quoted from naf_llabnip:

Posting this in case it can help others. So the first mod that I ordered for the game was a set of pinblades (well, actually PinGraffix which I bought via eBay). I read on the forums how to install these, and watched videos, and to say I was concerned about getting a clean install is an understatement. But somewhere earlier I read a post by somebody who said they simply removed the entire playfield, didn't have to disconnect anything, and that they (with help) set it on sawhorses right to the side of the machine and then had full easy access to the inside of the cabinet.
I paid close attention to the margins on either side of the playfield, and they literally scrape when raising and lowering the playfield (not the actual playfield sides, but the upper clear ramps on the left side of the machine drag the edges, and there isn't any way to adjust those to get out of the way). I saw the solutions for the plastic shields you can insert each time you raise the playfield, but felt those were pricey and was not confident I could even squeeze them in. Plus just one more thing to worry about and store somewhere. I saw another post from someone who lined the edges of their playfield with felt, so I went that route. Plus I lined the edges of the plastic ramps so they would slide smoothly.
Since my wife has bad back trouble at the moment (due to trying to help me get the machine upstairs), I "had" to figure out how to remove the playfield by myself, and found a super easy solution. I propped up the front of the machine to lessen the angle a bit. Then I raised the playfield up and set the front overhanging the front of the machine. But on the back, I wrapped a towel around a board, simply lifted the end of the playfield up high, slid the board underneath the rails below the playfield so the playfield just sat on top of the machine, giving full access to the inside of the cabinet (and made SURE it was on sturdy and would not slide down or to the side). Then it was super easy to install the blades, didn't need to mess with Windex or anything, just lined 'em up, used painters tape to hang them in position, and then undid the backing and installed them. The type I purchased were great about being able to lightly stick, then pull up, then adjust until I had them perfect, then I just used my hand to press them in and iron out any bubbles and they turned out perfect. While the playfield was up I used the 3/4" felt tape and lined the entire machine (every surface edge that could possibly scrape the sides), lowered the playfield back in, and it slides in and lifts up smooth as butter, nothing binding, nothing scraping. Took me about 30 minutes taking my time for the whole operation. Anyway, there are different ways to do this, but this method sure worked well for me. I LOVE the blades, and it feels like it helps brighten things up just a tad as well. The quality of the blades is very good, fairly thick vinyl feeling, had precut holes for the hinge bolts, and look better in person than the pictures.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for sharing your experience! I’ve got a set in the mail as I write this!

#7511 8 months ago
Quoted from rodcom:

No worries at all. Glad to hear the rubbers work for you. I did a little trimming and that seemed to work. What mods you getting?

Oh man, got a long list of mods coming:

Mod Couple
- Factory (fits over the "butter" container thing)
- Burp / tube (like the look sitting on top of the bumper)
- Wonkavator (just the static one fine for me to help fill the void for the SE)
- Top hat (for the ball kick-out / return lane thingy)
- Not ordered yet but probably will get the Augustus-in-a-tube mod and put it on the "shelf" at the back of the machine

Lermods
- Backglass light (just the plain white)
- Upper playfield RGB
- Lower / trough RGB
- Main playfield interactive spotlights

And I already have:
- Added a shaker (this is a MUST do, so easy and gosh what a difference!)
- Pingraffx blades (also LOVE the look, much more impact and nicer looking than I even thought from pictures)
- Self-made large mushroom field near the factory on the left and small mushroom field on upper playfield shelf at the back of the machine (I made identical plastic parts so I could preserve the originals and freely mod the new ones as needed ... used wooden large mushrooms, plastic small mushrooms, green sheets for grass used for jewelry cases, and Gorilla double-sided tape and a hole punch to make perfect little circles to affix the small mushrooms)
- Large candy lollipops (x 4) to cover up various switches and lights, from a Korean stationary store, they are made of rubber and are actually erasures so not worried if they get hit by a ball

At some point definitely a subwoofer mod is coming, probably just an inexpensive alligator clip solution to a Goodwill cheapo sub, but I do like the fancier solutions I have seen posted here before.

Wow, I feel almost ridiculous with that list of stuff, the machine out of the box is amazing but just got the bug to customize it!

#7512 8 months ago
Quoted from Camvr2013:

Thanks for sharing your experience! I’ve got a set in the mail as I write this!

Very good! Truly a great mod, I am surprised how much I love the look. And really was easy to install the way I did it, plus with the felt (felt tape came from Amazon, I think it was like $10 or so, WELL worth it) I feel confident I won't be ripping it any time soon when I raise / lower the playfield (knock on wood!).

#7513 8 months ago
Quoted from naf_llabnip:

Wow, I feel almost ridiculous with that list of stuff, the machine out of the box is amazing but just got the bug to customize it!

Go nuts man if it makes you happy...

Just keep in mind most mods you wont get any money out of if you ever sell it.

You dont want to be that guy listing his 7k machine for 9K with 2k worth of mods noone wants to pay up for.

#7514 8 months ago
Quoted from Elvishasleft:

Go nuts man if it makes you happy...
Just keep in mind most mods you wont get any money out of if you ever sell it.
You dont want to be that guy listing his 7k machine for 9K with 2k worth of mods noone wants to pay up for.

Ha, yes mods are not a good "investment", I plan on keeping this machine for good but no illusion that aside from the shaker, other mods add near zero resale value. But I'm good with it

#7515 8 months ago

dumb question. tried search manual and forums.

Is there a way to reduce the high score threshold? We are terrible at playing but like to beat each other by placing in the HSTD. But the default scores may as well be infinity + 1. Help!

#7516 8 months ago

Still on the hunt for a wonka le anyone have one for sale?

#7517 8 months ago
Quoted from happyclan:

Is there a way to reduce the high score threshold?

Check out page B-27 in the manual. Score awards. You can lower them some there.

LTG : )

#7518 8 months ago

I have a problem that has made the game pretty unplayable. The TV scoop does not seem to recognize when a ball is in it and only releases it after a ball search. I lifted the playfield and when moving around the black & white wires that go to the reflector board, the first row was turning brown and then not brown for most of the switches. I figured this was a good place to ask what my next move should be. There was a tight zip tie on those wires which I removed to see if it had pinched them. What is my next move?

#7519 8 months ago
Quoted from judremy:

I have a problem that has made the game pretty unplayable. The TV scoop does not seem to recognize when a ball is in it and only releases it after a ball search. I lifted the playfield and when moving around the black & white wires that go to the reflector board, the first row was turning brown and then not brown for most of the switches. I figured this was a good place to ask what my next move should be. There was a tight zip tie on those wires which I removed to see if it had pinched them. What is my next move?

Pretty common issue in my experience - clean the opto board under the saucer with alcohol (power off.)

#7520 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Pretty common issue in my experience - clean the opto board under the saucer with alcohol (power off.)

What about the part where wiggling a wire was causing the whole row to go to brown on the switch test?

#7521 8 months ago
Quoted from judremy:

What about the part where wiggling a wire was causing the whole row to go to brown on the switch test?

Oops, I fail at reading comprehension.

Is one of the harness plugs not seated well on the driver board in the head?

#7522 8 months ago

see pic, Anyone know the best way to remove the black cap that comes in the screw post hole? I don't want to pry it up out of fear that I could dig into the clear coat and attempted to push it up from the underside of PF. I am noticing it manipulates the ball slightly. Additionally, would like to get your thoughts on having the post inserted in between the left side, right in line and outlane(empty spot in the pic). I inserted it and tried it but had a slow rolling ball get stuck between it and the rollover wire. Very strange. Does the black cap need to be inserted? I bought mine NIB and it came just like you see in the pic so one hole had the black cap and the other didn't so I am assuming it isn't a necessity. I'd prefer to not have them inserted because they aren't flat.

Also, any idea how to increase the shaker intensity? I can barely feel it, in fact didn't think there was one. There isn't an adjustment knob on the shaker and couldn't find an adjustment in the settings but could have overlooked it.

Thanks in advance all.

IMG_3302 (resized).jpg
#7523 8 months ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

see pic, Anyone know the best way to remove the black cap that comes in the screw post hole? I don't want to pry it up out of fear that I could dig into the clear coat and attempted to push it up from the underside of PF. I am noticing it manipulates the ball slightly. Additionally, would like to get your thoughts on having the post inserted in between the left side, right in line and outlane(empty spot in the pic). I inserted it and tried it but had a slow rolling ball get stuck between it and the rollover wire. Very strange. Does the black cap need to be inserted? I bought mine NIB and it came just like you see in the pic so one hole had the black cap and the other didn't so I am assuming it isn't a necessity. I'd prefer to not have them inserted because they aren't flat.
Also, any idea how to increase the shaker intensity? I can barely feel it, in fact didn't think there was one. There isn't an adjustment knob on the shaker and couldn't find an adjustment in the settings but could have overlooked it.
Thanks in advance all. [quoted image]

I heard removing the black plug causes stuck balls, so I left it.

#7524 8 months ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

see pic, Anyone know the best way to remove the black cap that comes in the screw post hole? I don't want to pry it up out of fear that I could dig into the clear coat and attempted to push it up from the underside of PF. I am noticing it manipulates the ball slightly. Additionally, would like to get your thoughts on having the post inserted in between the left side, right in line and outlane(empty spot in the pic). I inserted it and tried it but had a slow rolling ball get stuck between it and the rollover wire. Very strange. Does the black cap need to be inserted? I bought mine NIB and it came just like you see in the pic so one hole had the black cap and the other didn't so I am assuming it isn't a necessity. I'd prefer to not have them inserted because they aren't flat.
Also, any idea how to increase the shaker intensity? I can barely feel it, in fact didn't think there was one. There isn't an adjustment knob on the shaker and couldn't find an adjustment in the settings but could have overlooked it.
Thanks in advance all. [quoted image]

I posted about it here a couple weeks ago. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/148#post-6112731

#7525 8 months ago

Thanks! Very helpful. I didn't want to start banging away at that cap until I got insights so thank you! Just got my CE last week so still digging into the forums and with 151 pages, there's a lot of info so appreciate you directing me to your post. Game is a slow going but man, once things get lit up it's super fun and the light show is great. I'm sure I will be back on here soon with more questions, lol.

#7526 8 months ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

Thanks! Very helpful. I didn't want to start banging away at that cap until I got insights so thank you! Just got my CE last week so still digging into the forums and with 151 pages, there's a lot of info so appreciate you directing me to your post. Game is a slow going but man, once things get lit up it's super fun and the light show is great. I'm sure I will be back on here soon with more questions, lol.

Ask away. We'll get you the answers, no problem.
Congratulations!!

#7527 8 months ago
Quoted from Jamwin:

Also, any idea how to increase the shaker intensity? I can barely feel it, in fact didn't think there was one. There isn't an adjustment knob on the shaker and couldn't find an adjustment in the settings but could have overlooked it.
Thanks in advance all. [quoted image]

Open the coin door and enter in to the game service menus.
Press the black button to start the process.
20210215_180141 (Medium) (resized).jpg

Follow the legend on the screen to navigate the menu and selections.
20210215_180205 (Medium) (resized).jpg20210215_180225 (Medium) (resized).jpg20210215_180242 (Medium) (resized).jpg20210215_180310 (Medium) (resized).jpg

#7528 8 months ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Open the coin door and enter in to the game service menus.
Press the black button to start the process.
[quoted image]
Follow the legend on the screen to navigate the menu and selections.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

got it, thanks man!

#7529 8 months ago

Fair number of “Wanted” requests for Wonka LE in marketplace.

Not to rub salt in anyone’s (whose looking for one) wounds, but I’m so glad I pulled the trigger and snapped one of the last few NIB up back in October.

I had no idea they were going to discontinue it when I bought it.

I’ll call it “divine intervention” as it’s honestly become my favorite pin of all time!

...best of luck to all those in search of this great machine!!!

#7530 8 months ago
Quoted from SBrothers:

Fair number of “Wanted” requests for Wonka LE in marketplace.
Not to rub salt in anyone’s (whose looking for one) wounds, but I’m so glad I pulled the trigger and snapped one of the last few NIB up back in October.
I had no idea they were going to discontinue it when I bought it.
I’ll call it “divine intervention” as it’s honestly become my favorite pin of all time!
...best of luck to all those in search of this great machine!!!

Point them at smalltownguy2 - he is desperately angry about his Wonka and has a game+playfield.

-1
#7531 8 months ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Point them at smalltownguy2 - he is desperately angry about his Wonka and has a game+playfield.

Mine's not an LE. And LE buyers aren't looking for SE's with shitty clearcoat. But thanks for the shout out anyway.

My SE isn't leaving me for any less than $7000. I don't care what anyone else thinks, that's my price.

#7532 8 months ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

Mine's not an LE. And LE buyers aren't looking for SE's with shitty clearcoat. But thanks for the shout out anyway.
My SE isn't leaving me for any less than $7000. I don't care what anyone else thinks, that's my price.

That price seems fair considering how much game you get...You might even be a tad low in today’s market.

#7533 8 months ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

Mine's not an LE. And LE buyers aren't looking for SE's with shitty clearcoat. But thanks for the shout out anyway.
My SE isn't leaving me for any less than $7000. I don't care what anyone else thinks, that's my price.

I think it's a fair price. I sold my Wonka SE for $6500 -without- a backup playfield.
And that was before COVID which has spiked all pinball prices across the board.

#7534 8 months ago

I will be Streaming Willy Wonka live on Friday at 6pm EST and Saturday at 4pm EST. We will be performing a live test of flipper coil temps with and without fans.

[email protected] supplied me with the test equipment and Cooling Fans that he sells.

Friday Stream will be without cooling fans and Saturday will have cooling fans installed to show the difference in Temperatures. Flipper fade is real, if you have noticed your flippers getting weaker after you play for a while, your coils are probably getting too HOT and NOT performing as normal.

We will have some great gameplay as well.
Here is the link:
https://www.twitch.tv/motorcitypinball

#7535 8 months ago

Pondering buying a NIB Wonka SE. Did they only do one original run of SE's that had clearcoat issues or was there a second run after LE/CE's?

#7536 8 months ago
Quoted from manadams:

Pondering buying a NIB Wonka SE. Did they only do one original run of SE's that had clearcoat issues or was there a second run after LE/CE's?

My SE doesn't have any clearcoat issues. I think the clearcoat issues were in the middle or first half of the run.

#7537 8 months ago
Quoted from judremy:

My SE doesn't have any clearcoat issues. I think the clearcoat issues were in the middle or first half of the run.

This is true some of the first run had pooling and by the second run somewhere before Oct 2019

#7538 8 months ago

Seems like SE and LE are sold out everywhere. I was able to pick up the last one at Kingpingames pretty excited. Looking forward to joining the club.

Will be interesting to see if this affects pricing at all. Any code updates expected in future?

#7539 8 months ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Seems like SE and LE are sold out everywhere. I was able to pick up the last one at Kingpingames pretty excited. Looking forward to joining the club.
Will be interesting to see if this affects pricing at all. Any code updates expected in future?

Did you pick up a LE or SE? Congrats fun pin.

#7540 8 months ago

Yeah all that is left out there is collectors editions of the game

#7541 8 months ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Seems like SE and LE are sold out everywhere. I was able to pick up the last one at Kingpingames pretty excited. Looking forward to joining the club.
Will be interesting to see if this affects pricing at all. Any code updates expected in future?

What's the manufacturing date of your pin?

#7542 8 months ago

Dont know yet it is being shipped - they told me it was a later run. It is an SE there were no LEs to be had. Fingers crossed!

Do we know what dates had issues? I think I saw Oct 19 in another post?

Quoted from smalltownguy2:

What's the manufacturing date of your pin?

#7543 8 months ago

Also - have I read you can use a stern shaker on these machines with some modification? I tried to search this thread but only saw JJP specific shaker. Thanks!

#7544 8 months ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

Also - have I read you can use a stern shaker on these machines with some modification? I tried to search this thread but only saw JJP specific shaker. Thanks!

Pinball Life is where I got mine.OEM and couldn’t be easier to install.The SE screams for this and the color changing backboard light to light up upper left playfield

#7545 8 months ago

I'm not sure if you heard the news Willy Wonka CE are now sold out. There are no LE SE and now CE!

If anyone is looking for a NIB game I have two... not trying to peddle but passing along some news.

Here is a great question i'd like to pose... do you think now that they're all sold will the value go up like the other games?

#7546 8 months ago

I have a Wonka CE, the sensor for the Most Secret machine has stopped recognizing hits at all. I have run diagnostics and it shows that there is an error, but I have checked connections and see nothing loose that could be causing an issue. I am thinking that the switch or an opto is bad. Can anyone take a look at these pics and advise me on the next steps. Wife loves to play and any game being down is like I am failing in my duties. Please advise! Thanks ahead of time.

1E7EDD31-3536-434F-B7A1-5BADED579C60 (resized).jpeg649C4E6F-8FB1-4584-ABCB-C8415CEDD387 (resized).jpegBF2CE02B-CDCD-445E-B3FA-7C10C3CCDD18 (resized).jpeg
#7547 8 months ago
Quoted from Furio:

I have a Wonka CE, the sensor for the Most Secret machine has stopped recognizing hits at all. I have run diagnostics and it shows that there is an error, but I have checked connections and see nothing loose that could be causing an issue. I am thinking that the switch or an opto is bad. Can anyone take a look at these pics and advise me on the next steps. Wife loves to play and any game being down is like I am failing in my duties. Please advise! Thanks ahead of time.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is the metal arm roller still attached to the arm which attaches to the little black switch? See pic. If it's gone that's your problem.
I can't tell by these pictures.
If it is......slide the glass off and try to operate the switch manually. (the metal arm with the roller on the end) Operate it by itself and see if its stuck or triggers at all. There is a known issue(with a few quick fixes) with these getting stuck on top of the flat metal but this is the first i've heard of it actually being broken. I'm wondering if it has compromised the switch over time and either bent the arm or broken it or something but start there.
7a55e2713970b1f5d99d7f0051661e8f73376f16 (resized).jpeg

#7548 8 months ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Is the metal arm roller still attached to the arm which attaches to the little black switch? See pic.
I can't tell by these pictures.
If it is......slide the glass off and try to operate the switch manually. (the metal arm with the roller on the end) Operate it by itself and see if its stuck or triggers at all. There is a known issue with these getting stuck on top of the flat metal. I'm wondering if it has compromised the switch over time and either bent the arm or broken it or something but start there.
[quoted image]

For me the root cause was the switch arm was floppy and loose. I folded a little piece of e-tape and jammed it into the switch base where the arm comes out, which stiffened it up to where I could adjust it without further failure. I did get a replacement and someday I will install it but I haven't had to yet.

#7549 8 months ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

Is the metal arm roller still attached to the arm which attaches to the little black switch? See pic. If it's gone that's your problem.
I can't tell by these pictures.
If it is......slide the glass off and try to operate the switch manually. (the metal arm with the roller on the end) Operate it by itself and see if its stuck or triggers at all. There is a known issue(with a few quick fixes) with these getting stuck on top of the flat metal but this is the first i've heard of it actually being broken. I'm wondering if it has compromised the switch over time and either bent the arm or broken it or something but start there.
[quoted image]

If you have access to a 3d printer, I recommend this part created by a pinsider (Mikepmcs). Great file and just snaps into place. Here is the link on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675550

20210209_202116 (resized).jpg

#7550 8 months ago
Quoted from DavidCPA:

If you have access to a 3d printer, I recommend this part created by a pinsider (Mikepmcs). Great file and just snaps into place. Here is the link on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4675550
[quoted image]

That one doesn't make any sense to me at all.

"You get nothing" - except your ball you just locked, or a gobstopper collect.

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