No, just a screw. Grabbed a picture for you.

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Where did you get that/what is it called?

Ha. Great idea!

There was no spacer on mine from the factory on the low side of the protector, only the upper mount had a white spacer.
I'll bet if you fish around in the bottom of the cabinet, or ball trough you may find the screw that fell out.

Pinball life sells them. Make sure you buy a few items because shipping will cost you 2000 times more than that costs. It's a .20 cent part.
Or you can do what i did prior to getting my post caps. I sanded the rubber ring down slowly until it worked. Far more economical.
https://www.pinballlife.com/post-caps.html

Full version of my rendition. I made it in tinkercad so it's not an exact replica. I don't know how to design or use other programs so it is what it is. Anyone who wants to make one or send to a print service can do so. It's for non commercial use and free for everyone to use and share. If you remix it please continue to give your improved design away for free.
Here's a picture of the prototype I made some time ago. A translucent pla shows better.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754818

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Or you could remove the metal washer if you like the rubber on there. Set mine up like yours sans washer and it works fine too.

Metal washer is lower then the radius of the ball. The gap of the lane with rubber on both sides is to small.

Just edited my post, but mine works with the rubber just fine. Definitely could be true if he has a bigger ring on his though.

Great File. Firing up the printer now. Where/How did you mount it on your machine? Think I might remix it to break some of it apart for an easier print. If so, I will post the remix to Thingiverse and link to your original design.

I didn't. The one I put on my game is half of that merged with a plastic cover for the back. It's a few posts prior to this last one on previous page.
Printing it in half did not work for me. It looked bad and didn't match up. I did try it though.
And both of those were done with a .4 nozzle and maybe .16 layer height. It was before I was smart enough to go smaller nozzle and layer height.
If I did it again i'd do a .2 nozzle and .08 layer height. I don't care if it takes 2 days to print. Everything I do is one off and not produced so i'm looking for as smooth as can be.
r/
Mike

I have a friend with a resin printer. I might see what he can do with it. Thanks

I'm very interested in that result for sure if you can pull it off. Do they make a gold resin? I know nothing about them except I want one. ha.

Same here, I installed the cheater post (upper position, "super cheater", thinking about moving it to the lower one though), all I did was slide the original rubber on the center post down a bit (below the main groove) so it contacts the ball at a lower point. No issues with the ball hanging, and it still has a nice bounce from either post when it contacts the rubber. I do wonder if eventually that bit of rubber will stay put since it isn't in the groove; time will tell. But certainly just removing the rubber from the middle (to the right of the cheater) would ensure no balls are stuck.

In the Upper cheat post position there is no issue. In the Lower position as the poster shows the rubbers are to close together and will hang up the ball unless you remove a rubber or go with the smaller rubber nut option.

Today I installed the Hallmark 2017 Wonka Christmas ornament, Mezel chocolate bars and ModCouple good/bad egg and chocolate falls mods. I still have the Charlie burp tube of danger mod to install if I can find a place for it. The playfield is crazy busy, I think I'm definitely done adding toys to this game now, lol. Only other thing I want to do is adding some bass to the game...perhaps a Pinwoofer system is next.

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If you dont need the rule card, unscrew that and show all of Mr. Wonka

Guys, you all need to buy a four pack of LED lights with usb connector and light up the back of the Playfield. it is a must have mod. another poster on here did it, and i just did it today. game changer! I prefer blue lights in the back; it shines well off the blue PF. anyway, the ball is more trackable with that added lighting feature. I bought mine on amazon for 13 dollars. best lighting mod I've done yet.

18 months and 1300 games later, this game gets better and better. excited for Toy Story! How in the world will Lawlor outdo himself this time? my goodness, the possibilities!

if you are going for score, then yes, use additional PF lights. if you are going for the experience of the light show, go without the PF added lights. its beautiful in a dark room!!!!

U must have a se? The le has lots of extra rgb lights in the back ....a few big rgb flashers and a extra spot light also.

I didnt know the rubber ring was supposed to go on that cheater post, thanks for the picture, Ill do that when I get home.

You all have got me experiencing Oompa Loompa Air Ball of Death anxiety now! Lol. I could barely focus on playing well last night I was so worried about a ball taking out that sweet little orange guy. Guess I need to invest in a protector ASAP!

Interesting, mine definitely was hanging with the upper cheater post position installed (see first photo). But I realized I did not put on the washer (wasn't sure if I wanted to keep the post in that position and didn't want any contact with the playfield), but I now see that the washer elevates the post just enough to eliminate the binding issue (but wow that is a tight fit for the ball, but yep it does clear).

In other news, I've got a box of ModCouple toys heading my way, can't wait to check 'em out ... at least in the photos the little factory looks A-mazin'

That looks pretty sweet, well done sir! I hear you on the Pinwoofer thing. As a new owner and having read back through this entire thread's messages, I saw lots of discussion about the sound quality for the machine ... and I thought I would be fine with the stock setup, but absolutely needs some more ooomph in the audio department (low frequencies anyway), so an inexpensive external woofer will be coming soon.

Thanks for the clarification on the spacer. JJP is sending a new screw as I checked Ace, HD and Lowe’s without success. Of course, I’m also wondering where it went as I have been searching above and below the playfield and can’t find it anywhere. I’m also worried about an air all taking out the camera or oompa, so game sits idle until the replacement screw arrives.

Yes, I have the SE. in fact, I was the lucky recipient of game number 0001 off the production line (numbered PF), signed by jersey jack himself

stoked to have the first wonka ever made!!!!! I don't think I'll ever sell it, unless my kids are hungry and I'm broke, God forbid!!!

Yeah, my OOMPA Loompa has lost two fingers, but is surviving the deluge of flying balls. I did not install the shield over the ramp, because it is not as frequent on my game as others have reported (air balls). so far, OOMPA has been struck 6 times, hence the finger amputations LOL. He can still make candy with eight fingers, I figure LOL

I’ve said a lot about this already , but I’ll just say that I never wanted to add a subwoofer to a pinball before Wonka. Now that I have, I need them on every game. I wired my other machine into the same subwoofer with the Pinnovators kit and they both sound awesome. Interestingly, Wonka sounds better than JP now, even with both hooked to the sub. You just have to find the right balance. I honestly think it’s the best mod for the money on any new pin. You will be shocked at how good you can make this game sound. Takes the experience to a whole new level. Cheers.

Would you say it adds a lot to Wonka? I have subs on other pins, and some definitely are better than others. For example, my GB is great with it, but my TWD is basically useless having it.

I am one of those people who feel that Wonka's sound is poor, so I am assuming I would benefit from this...

Hi there Pinside does anybody have one of these to sell?

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Yes, definitely. I did some other things that I explained in another post to dampen the highs as well, but it is a night-and-day difference to me now that I have the mix right. Takes the whole experience up a notch. There's way more bass than some may think in there...In a dark room, with the awesome light show, subwoofer, and maybe a few adult beverages , it's a pretty immersive experience now. My JP sounds better with the sub too, but WW benefitted way more and sounds better than JP to us now. These modern pins are so "cinematic" with their displays and detail, that I won't be without a sub again! If you go for it, I'd be curious to hear what you think.

Can you link to the LED lights you got? Sounds way better than the $30-50 options being offered by opportunists here.

The sound quality on my Wonka LE has little to no bass. It sounds like all treble and no punch or bass. This is how my Houdini was until I added a Polk external sub connected to the factory amplifier and adjusted the bass and treble gain knobs to my liking. Made a HUGE difference in the sound quality and immersion when playing Houdini.

I see Wonka also has a lower cabinet woofer, but I don’t hear much, if any, bass. Is there a way to turn up the lower frequencies on the built in audio system or does one have to go with a PinWoofer system? Most of my games have either PinWoofer or PinSound+ systems, but some have killer factory sound like Iron Maiden LE or Hobbit LE. Wonka definitely needs help in the audio department!

Sounds good! I might take my sub off my TWD and try it out on Wonka.

Does Wonka have a Sub-Out connector or are people wiring them to the speaker inside the cabinet?

Pinwoofer if you can afford it and don’t want the external sub. Never heard one, but I’m pretty sure they are nice and prob the way to go bc they have EQ adjustments. Pinnovators kit and the Elac or Polk 10” sub for less than 1/2 the price if you’re cheap like me and don’t mind damping and tweaking you until you get it right.

No sub out on Wonka. Some just use alligator clips off of the cabinet speaker, but I used the Pinnovators kit. If you go this route, don’t get the push-on kit they recommend for Wonka SE/LE unless the terminals are free. On mine, the speaker wires were soldered to the push on terminals, so I just soldered in as well (see pic). Get this one if you have the larger gauge wires like mine did and don’t want to mess around with soldering -
https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/all-other-systems-subwoofer-kits/products/pinsub-subwoofer-kit-multi-system-blue
Once you guys get these things set, no more slot machine sounds. I’m sure you’ll agree. I sound like a subwoofer salesman now lol...but I guarantee no other mod will improve your experience with this pin like this will! GL.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QWZVQC1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

I added some images of the blue light effect

these are low voltage, so I assume if you know how, you can modify the device (cut the wires and splice) to tie right into GI lighting circuits for use on NON USB applications (stern and williams games). I'm gonna try to get another set, and see if I can splice them into a GI circuit (6 volt) soon.

heres the USB powered car lights. remote controlled RGBs. $15 such a deal!!!!

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Cool, thanks. I would just alligator clip them on like I have on my other pins.. I wont get around to doing this until maybe next week, but when I do, Ill be sure to chime in... Thanks for the info.

Now that I have the left "cheater post" installed in the upper position, the outlane drains feel pretty balanced. But I noticed that the right lane has an upper post that looks adjustable, and from the factory comes in the most "difficult" setting. Anyone played with that right lane post adjustment (lowering should make it "easier")?

I’m curious about this too. I’ve left mine as I bought it, which has the charter post in the low position in the outer left lane and the right side lanes at factory.

Adding to this already stellar info, I actually got the set I used at Walmart for <$10. I can’t remember the brand, but they’re located in their electronics section, typically on the end of an aisle!

Man I dont know... are you sure your game is setup right and level? I never once have thought to add stuff to mine to make it easier.

If you want more ball time just put it on 5 or 10 ball if need be or ideally learn how to nudge and work the ball.

Its a hard game but not let me re-design the game hard.

Its pretty perfect where it is... its not Ghostbusters which is just a terrible design and needs the help to be playable.

I hear ya: play better! My game works great at about a 7 degree incline, flipper strength perfect at the factory settings, only adjustment I made was a slight boost to the slingshots strength. My nudge skills are terrible, so certainly agree that is the best (and most fun) place to focus ... play the game, right!

But in this case I'm not talking about adding something to make the game easier; I was asking about what appears to be an adjustable post above the right outlane. Just like there are difficulty settings in the menus, you can adjust the coil settings, etc ... from the factory you can adjust the playfield by design. I have seen umpteen messages about the left post, but didn't recall seeing any discussion about adjusting the right post. Not planning on messing with it, just wondering about the experience of others with that.

Hi all, Just ordered my CE!!!! Woohoo! So excited and its on its way.
Now trying to figure out if it will fit (with topper on) where my other machines are where I have 83-84 inches clearance. Would anyone with a CE be willing to measure the height of the topper itself? It's gonna be close! Someone had kindly let me know it was about 7ft total with topper but I am getting granular now!
Thanks!

I think you're about 2 inches short. I can't actually get to mine without moving my WOZ. It is next to it and dorothy's head looks to be the same height. Measure to the top of her head and it's around 86"
The Wonka backbox is taller than the WOZ backbox visibly but the 75th Topper is taller than the Wonka's.
Hopefully someone can give an exact measurement but I think it's too tall.
Congratulations on your purchase!!! Any issues be sure to ask.
r/
Mike

I just measured it at ~84.5 inches including the topper. Back feet are sunk into carpet just a bit too. Sounds really close; so close I'm sure you can work something out! Excellent choice for a new pin sir!

Thanks to you Ian and Mike. Much appreciated! Yeah, looks like I'll miss by 1-1.5 inches...thinking I can sand down the ceiling

I was thinking you just need to drill 4 holes in the floor a couple of inches, but whatever works!

Seriously, congrats, CEs are just beautiful, LOVE my SE for the money but certainly if the budget is there the LEs and CEs are worth it. Truly a special game and one that I think will stand the test of time.

I put in the left Outlane post and dropped the right Outlane posts. Both of them. I have kids and a lot of family that enjoy playing, I'm not about to make this game any harder and make it less enjoyable for new players. For now, I'm happy with how we have it set up. You can always change it back!

Good to know, figured somebody out there must have played around with it ... I noticed last night what you said: there are TWO adjustables on the right side. I'll enjoy my game as-is for now, but nice to know it can be adjusted to best meet the needs of the player. Yep I'm sure the whole family can appreciate it, nephews cannot wait (just waiting for a better COVID situation) to play it!

Looking for a wonka le huo