(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 12,122 posts
  • 610 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Trumpanche
  • Topic is favorited by 256 Pinsiders

You

Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 126 votes
    24%
  • Limited Edition 270 votes
    52%
  • Collectors Edition 119 votes
    23%

(515 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

13 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 12,122 posts in this topic. You are on page 120 of 243.
#5951 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Any suggestions would be great.

Quoted from Yesh23:

The 2nd issue I have is on my right ramp. I have the flipper strength set at 20 which I love. When I hit the right ramp the ball I'm guessing gets slgithly air born and hit the top of the clear plastic (green spot). It did that all the time until I added the blue piece. This has helped because now I rarely get a reject but it'll still happen from time to time. The spacer in red was already there when I received the game. Thoughts? I'm guessing to raise the blue one up a little more.

Smaller rubber rings. Turn your flipper power down.

LTG : )

#5952 1 year ago

Does anyone know if someone is making decals for all of the various targets in the game. I was surprised JJP did not include these on the premium editions. Thanks.

#5953 1 year ago
Quoted from robey99:

Does anyone know if someone is making decals for all of the various targets in the game. I was surprised JJP did not include these on the premium editions. Thanks.

One of the mod guys are cranking those out I've seen them before for all the targets and such

#5954 1 year ago
Quoted from robey99:

Does anyone know if someone is making decals for all of the various targets in the game. I was surprised JJP did not include these on the premium editions. Thanks.

Thats a good idea

#5955 1 year ago

Selling a couple of mods (Factory and WonkaVator) that are no longer needed it anyone is interested.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/102299

#5956 1 year ago
Quoted from jarozi:

Not making the final call until the reveal but if I pull the trigger I haven't landed on LE or CE so I have a questions for those who have owned both. Exclusivity is the least important factor, so removing that, is there anywhere close to $3000 in additional value in a CE over an LE on a JJP? Or is most of the value assigned to the numbers on the plaque? Thanks!

Do you think the artwork and powder coating is worth $3K ? personally I like the blue better, but thats a personal pref. If I was you I would buy the after market side blades and JJP topper and call it good.

#5957 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Do you think the artwork and powder coating is worth $3K ? personally I like the blue better, but thats a personal pref. If I was you I would buy the after market side blades and JJP topper and call it good.

Agree 100%
The LE blue looks def nicer.
Topper and sideart is wack.
And who needs a princess-sparkeling-playfield.
More important is not to have a pooling one.

#5958 1 year ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

Agree 100%
The LE blue looks def nicer.
Topper and sideart is wack.
And who needs a princess-sparkeling-playfield.
More important is not to have a pooling one.

You can buy the JJP topper for $300, side blades for $75, and shooter rod for $80 and call it good....save yourself $2500

#5959 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

You can buy the JJP topper for $300, side blades for $75, and shooter rod for $80 and call it good....save yourself $2500

The CE callouts though...

#5960 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The CE callouts though...

True....Im not aware of those differences....its really a personal choice...they both look great

#5961 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Smaller rubber rings. Turn your flipper power down.
LTG : )

That worked!! Thank you

#5962 1 year ago

I know other folks told me to take the rubbers off the post but I like to have rubbers on the post. I have the smallest rubbers 3/8” on the post and the ball won’t go through the insane. This design makes no sense.

4D37FA06-49CF-4996-9D8B-76D3E13B9DA3 (resized).jpeg
#5963 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I like to have rubbers on the post.

Had a thought. Those posts have a washer and locknut below the playfield.

Maybe loosen the locknut, spread the posts as far apart as possible. Retighten the locknut.

The hole through the playfield is a tiny bit bigger than the threaded post. Maybe that would gain enough room so as not to trap the ball.

Long shot maybe raise the posts a little so the ball still hits the rubber ring, but a little lower on the rubber instead of the fatter middle ?

LTG : )

#5964 1 year ago

I just changed my flipper rubbers and now my left flipper is sticking sometimes. I know it must be something simple? Hopefully...

20200917_114601 (resized).jpg

#5965 1 year ago
Quoted from jester523:

I just changed my flipper rubbers and now my left flipper is sticking sometimes. I know it must be something simple? Hopefully...
[quoted image]

Everything you need to know about flippers:

Most likely the pawl nut is loose or the flipper is binding but watch the video.

#5966 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I know other folks told me to take the rubbers off the post but I like to have rubbers on the post. I have the smallest rubbers 3/8” on the post and the ball won’t go through the insane. This design makes no sense.
[quoted image]

Mine is configured like yours and I have no issues

#5967 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I know other folks told me to take the rubbers off the post but I like to have rubbers on the post. I have the smallest rubbers 3/8” on the post and the ball won’t go through the insane. This design makes no sense.
[quoted image]

Thats crazy! I dont have that left post on but damn...

#5968 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I know other folks told me to take the rubbers off the post but I like to have rubbers on the post. I have the smallest rubbers 3/8” on the post and the ball won’t go through the insane. This design makes no sense.
[quoted image]

I have this same issue and trimming off some of the rubber with an Xacto knife helped, but now I have the ball rotating the rubber every time it rubs against it and it gets stuck again. So unless I trim the rubber all 360 degrees, I am thinking to super glue the rubber to the metal post. I might instead try that method LTG said.

#5969 1 year ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

I have this same issue and trimming off some of the rubber with an Xacto knife helped, but now I have the ball rotating the rubber every time it rubs against it and it gets stuck again. So unless I trim the rubber all 360 degrees, I am thinking to super glue the rubber to the metal post. I might instead try that method LTG said.

Just take it off and play like a man!

#5970 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Just take it off and play like a man!

I hear what your saying, but isn't that a good way to ruin your pinballs? I'm wondering if his issue is a play field one or possibly the vertical height? I'll look at mine closer the next time I turn on the game.

#5971 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I hear what your saying, but isn't that a good way to ruin your pinballs? I'm wondering if his issue is a play field one or possibly the vertical height? I'll look at mine closer the next time I turn on the game.

I was totally joking but not sure how it would ruin pinballs? The game comes stock with no post on that left side and that is the factory default.

#5972 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

I was totally joking but not sure how it would ruin pinballs? The game comes stock with no post on that left side and that is the factory default.

Just metal on metal is never ideal if u can avoid...Factory default is a post with no rubber installed?

#5973 1 year ago

I called JJP tech support today just to ask and didn’t get much help. I’m just shocked that the holes are there and you can have this problem. I’m going to try the method mentioned above and loosen and try moving them slightly apart. I believe though mine screw in from the top and there’s no nut on the bottom. It’s almost like the holes came from the factory too close

#5974 1 year ago

There is not supposed to be a rubber on that post.

#5975 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

There is not supposed to be a rubber on that post.

No rubber on both post, no rubber on the far left post leading to the outline, or no rubber on the post in the center between the inlanes

#5976 1 year ago

No rubber on the post between the two In lanes for sure. Then on mine there is a rubber on the post at the top of the inlane outlane divider but an empty hole with nothing up to the right of that where another post could be added

#5977 1 year ago

In your picture earlier on this page the mini post rubbers are too fat also

#5978 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

In your picture earlier on this page the mini post rubbers are too fat also

Post rubber size is 3/8” the smallest I believe you can get

#5979 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Post rubber size is 3/8” the smallest I believe you can get

There is a smaller one,but they are a bitch to get on.

#5980 1 year ago

Best solution if you wanna use a post on the outlane and if you want rubber on the posts ......20200918_024355 (resized).jpg20200918_024404 (resized).jpg20200918_024451 (resized).jpg20200918_024430 (resized).jpg

#5982 1 year ago
Quoted from jester523:

I just changed my flipper rubbers and now my left flipper is sticking sometimes. I know it must be something simple? Hopefully...

I've noticed that the flippers on Wonka (maybe JJP?) are sloppy, no matter what you do to adjust them. My lower two flippers had 2 DIFFERENT return springs on them, creating all kinds of problems when I took delivery of my LE. (last summer, early production)

The thing that seems different to me than other games is the vertical slop in the flipper hinge pole and flipper bushing. Tons of play when delivered, I then tried to tighten them up a bit using the spacing tool, but then they would bind, and hang when returning like your photo shows.

I have re-built/adjusted a lot of flipper assemblies, so I'm familiar with all the nuances.

It looks like you might need to loosen up the LH flipper bat's up/down gap slightly to fix that, or replace the return spring with a stiffer one, or BOTH, which is what I did with my game.

#5983 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Just metal on metal is never ideal if u can avoid...Factory default is a post with no rubber installed?

Factory default is having no post at all on the left side.

But I always hear the metal on metal thing and its unavoidable with pinball. Balls are smashing into metal plated ramps and such, let alone multiball where balls are smashing into themselves.

#5984 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Factory default is having no post at all on the left side.
But I always hear the metal on metal thing and its unavoidable with pinball. Balls are smashing into metal plated ramps and such, let alone multiball where balls are smashing into themselves.

I hear ya....

#5985 1 year ago

Has anyone tried adjustments to the gobstopper target to make the hole shot easier from the right flipper? Having direct shots rejected doesn't feel right. I was thinking of bending the target to face more downward, but that is a really solid piece of metal. I loosened the spring, but it didn't make a difference.

#5986 1 year ago
Quoted from Lrrr:

Has anyone tried adjustments to the gobstopper target to make the hole shot easier from the right flipper? Having direct shots rejected doesn't feel right. I was thinking of bending the target to face more downward, but that is a really solid piece of metal. I loosened the spring, but it didn't make a difference.

No, I like having the option to bang the target to goose the bonus multiplier, then post-pass left and sink it when I'm ready.

#5987 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

No, I like having the option to bang the target to goose the bonus multiplier, then post-pass left and sink it when I'm ready.

Completing the wonkavator and gobstopper multiballs has been inconsistent for me. Disconnecting the playfield magnets has helped some. Once the hole is open during those multiballs I fire every shot at that sucker and get rejected too often. Ball goes in randomly more often than with a direct shot. I know I can get control of a ball with the left flipper and then backhand, but thats not my multiball style. Might try bending the target tonight. Or might fiddle with that rubber circle

#5988 1 year ago

Bending that metal was tough, and I was a little impatient. I am posting these before and after pics so you guys can maybe have a laugh. I am not proud.

Despite the poor craftmanship, this did nicely change the angle so a straight shot geometrically directs the ball straight into the hole. It helped only a little, and I know why. Topspin! That rubber circle is super grippy and grabs the topspin causing the ball to rattle out. If I had mylar i would try to put some on the circle, but I don't. Duct tape would be funny, but not slippery enough. I am going to apply Scotch tape, play a bunch of games and report back tomorrow.

20200918_152919 (resized).jpg20200918_153211 (resized).jpg
#5989 1 year ago

After owning the game for over two years, I finally kicked my friends off the GC. Had a really fun game last night! 2.8M on ball one! Finished just under 9M but only collected one golden ticket. Those just don't come to the casual player!

Love this game!

#5990 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

After owning the game for over two years, I finally kicked my friends off the GC. Had a really fun game last night! 2.8B on ball one! Finished just under 9B but only collected one golden ticket. Those just don't come to the casual player!
Love this game!

9 million you mean? 9 billion would be otherworldly!

#5991 1 year ago

Gobstopper hole shot from right flipper now one of my favorite shots in the game. Before tweaks was 20% success, now 90%.

For anyone interested, easy reversible things to try are 1) detach one of the springs 2) put something non-stick on the rubber target to prevent topsin rattle.

#5992 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I know other folks told me to take the rubbers off the post but I like to have rubbers on the post. I have the smallest rubbers 3/8” on the post and the ball won’t go through the insane. This design makes no sense.
[quoted image]

Another option would be to install a post like Dialed-In. Wonka and Dialed-In are identical in this area of the playfield. I have lots of games on my Dialed-In and don't have any ball damage from the bare post. You could add some heat shrink tubing to the post if you have any concerns about ball damage.

20200920_081926 (resized).jpg20200920_081939 (resized).jpg20200920_081414 (resized).jpg20200920_081441 (resized).jpg20200920_081446 (resized).jpg
#5993 1 year ago
Quoted from crobby:

9 million you mean? 9 billion would be otherworldly!

Yes indeed - 9M - fixed it.

#5994 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

After owning the game for over two years, I finally kicked my friends off the GC. Had a really fun game last night! 2.8M on ball one! Finished just under 9M but only collected one golden ticket. Those just don't come to the casual player!
Love this game!

They don't come easy to anyone...

#5995 1 year ago

I'm looking into purchasing a NIB Wonka LE, and to save a bit of cash I plan to pick up the game in-person as opposed to shipping. I've always had games shipped in-box to my doorstep so this is new for me. Is there any issue laying an unopened boxed Wonka flat on the trucking side in a moving van (secured so it doesn't slide around in transit)? I know the box has a tip-o-meter but would any damage possibly result from this?

#5996 1 year ago
Quoted from tpoeckh:

Is there any issue laying an unopened boxed Wonka flat on the trucking side in a moving van

One side is labeled "Truck This Side Only ". That is the bottom of the machine. Set it flat on that side and you'll be fine. Tie it down.

LTG : )

#5997 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

One side is labeled "Truck This Side Only ". That is the bottom of the machine. Set it flat on that side and you'll be fine. Tie it down.
LTG : )

Was hoping it would be that simple, thank you for the info.

#5998 1 year ago
Quoted from tpoeckh:

I'm looking into purchasing a NIB Wonka LE, and to save a bit of cash I plan to pick up the game in-person as opposed to shipping. I've always had games shipped in-box to my doorstep so this is new for me. Is there any issue laying an unopened boxed Wonka flat on the trucking side in a moving van (secured so it doesn't slide around in transit)? I know the box has a tip-o-meter but would any damage possibly result from this?

Be sure to check if you will owe Illinois tax or not if you pick up at the factory. JJP will know.

#5999 1 year ago
Quoted from txstargazer3:

Be sure to check if you will owe Illinois tax or not if you pick up at the factory. JJP will know.

I will pick up in Oregon, so no sales tax there.

#6000 1 year ago

I have a small issue with my flippers, ever since I got the machine NIB. They’re not symetrical.
By looking at general playfield photo’s, I get the impression that the right flipperbat is mounted too far to the right. I’ve watched the flipper assembly video, but I’m not sure what to adjust to get it in the correct position.

Another thing is that when the flippers are up, the left one reaches higher than the right flipper. Which one is correct? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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