(Topic ID: 240130)

Wonka Club - Golden Tickets Inside

By f3honda4me

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 13,961 posts
  • 676 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by bigguybbr
  • Topic is favorited by 257 Pinsiders

You

Topic poll

“What edition are you ordering or planning to buy?”

  • Standard 132 votes
    24%
  • Limited Edition 289 votes
    53%
  • Collectors Edition 123 votes
    23%

(544 votes)

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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 13,961 posts in this topic. You are on page 113 of 280.
#5601 3 years ago

Silly question but where is the Charlie shot?

#5602 3 years ago
Quoted from jrawlinson_2000:

Silly question but where is the Charlie shot?

It's not a silly question, it took me a really long time to figure out. You have to start his mode in the scoop. Same with Veruca Salt.

#5603 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

So, if the $66 kit does not replace the stock lights, are the stock warm or cool white? Obviously I would want it to match the stock ones to have the same color throughout.

The stock JJP LEDs are warm white. The ones in the mod are cool white. You can see the comparison in one of my videos I did.

#5604 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

So, if the $66 kit does not replace the stock lights, are the stock warm or cool white? Obviously I would want it to match the stock ones to have the same color throughout.

the stock on my standard is a cool white, around 4000k. In the video shown above, those lights look almost blue like 7000k, which is much further on the white scale. Since there are differences in colors, the best thing to do if you want it color matched exactly just let me know and I will include the top part for now at no extra charge.
white scale (resized).JPGwhite scale (resized).JPG

#5606 3 years ago

We watched the movie tonight.
Loved hearing the callouts etc... Gene Wilder died in 2016, makes me sad he never got to see the Pinball, he would've been absolutely thrilled.

#5607 3 years ago

Hey Team Wonka. I just installed a few mods. Mezelmod's JJP power kit, Gobstopper sign, and Wonka Bar sign. All without a hitch. Installed Lermod's Wonkavator mod, no issues.

But, tried to install side art...total failure. So tight, left plastics and left side of playfield ripped art. Then, tried to install one of my favorite mods, Pinstadium lights. Two problems. Because so tight, it also damaged some of the magnetic strip holding the lights in place. Second, the pin stadium lights cause a pretty severe reflection on the left side due to the clear plastics. Anyone else have these issues?

IMG_2122 (resized).jpegIMG_2122 (resized).jpegIMG_2123 (resized).jpegIMG_2123 (resized).jpeg
#5608 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Hey Team Wonka. I just installed a few mods. Mezelmod's JJP power kit, Gobstopper sign, and Wonka Bar sign. All without a hitch. Installed Lermod's Wonkavator mod, no issues.
But, tried to install side art...total failure. So tight, left plastics and left side of playfield ripped art. Then, tried to install one of my favorite mods, Pinstadium lights. Two problems. Because so tight, it also damaged some of the magnetic strip holding the lights in place. Second, the pin stadium lights cause a pretty severe reflection on the left side due to the clear plastics. Anyone else have these issues?[quoted image][quoted image]

Ah, you should have got the Pinstadium Omegas! Those have the diffusers on them which stop the reflections that you can see on your game.

I bought these protectors from Pinball Life that are good to keep the playfield from damaging the side art (I have mirror blades on mine) when you raise it:

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

#5609 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Hey Team Wonka. I just installed a few mods. Mezelmod's JJP power kit, Gobstopper sign, and Wonka Bar sign. All without a hitch. Installed Lermod's Wonkavator mod, no issues.
But, tried to install side art...total failure. So tight, left plastics and left side of playfield ripped art. Then, tried to install one of my favorite mods, Pinstadium lights. Two problems. Because so tight, it also damaged some of the magnetic strip holding the lights in place. Second, the pin stadium lights cause a pretty severe reflection on the left side due to the clear plastics. Anyone else have these issues?[quoted image][quoted image]

Ive never been able to put sideblades in without taking out the playfield.. ever. Ive ruined like 6 sets between different games. I simply have no idea how people can do it lined up properly with the playfield in there.. Its beyond me lol

#5610 3 years ago
Quoted from jimbodeanny:

The stock JJP LEDs are warm white. The ones in the mod are cool white. You can see the comparison in one of my videos I did.

Well Lermods said the stock is Cool White and I would have guessed the same... hmmmnn

Edit, nevermind, should have watched your video first. Those do look warm.

#5611 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Hey Team Wonka. I just installed a few mods. Mezelmod's JJP power kit, Gobstopper sign, and Wonka Bar sign. All without a hitch. Installed Lermod's Wonkavator mod, no issues.
But, tried to install side art...total failure. So tight, left plastics and left side of playfield ripped art. Then, tried to install one of my favorite mods, Pinstadium lights. Two problems. Because so tight, it also damaged some of the magnetic strip holding the lights in place. Second, the pin stadium lights cause a pretty severe reflection on the left side due to the clear plastics. Anyone else have these issues?[quoted image][quoted image]

I was going to mention the same thing about the omegas, you can also get the hovers accessory through Pin stadium which will let you place the pin stadiums without the magnetic strips.

#5612 3 years ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Ah, you should have got the Pinstadium Omegas! Those have the diffusers on them which stop the reflections that you can see on your game.
I bought these protectors from Pinball Life that are good to keep the playfield from damaging the side art (I have mirror blades on mine) when you raise it:
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

These are a must have if u have side art.....they do help, but on really tight play fields its a struggle keeping the art work pristine

#5613 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

But, tried to install side art...total failure. So tight, left plastics and left side of playfield ripped art. Then, tried to install one of my favorite mods, Pinstadium lights. Two problems. Because so tight, it also damaged some of the magnetic strip holding the lights in place. Second, the pin stadium lights cause a pretty severe reflection on the left side due to the clear plastics. Anyone else have these issues?[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from parsonsaj:

I bought these protectors from Pinball Life that are good to keep the playfield from damaging the side art (I have mirror blades on mine) when you raise it:
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

Quoted from Rager170:

Ive never been able to put sideblades in without taking out the playfield.. ever. Ive ruined like 6 sets between different games. I simply have no idea how people can do it lined up properly with the playfield in there.. Its beyond me lol

Although, I messed up one side the first time, I didn't have much trouble installing the blades. It's my first pin, but I installed them very similar to arcade game side art and they went on just fine. It just takes a little planning and care. I also bought and used the blade protectors. They are a lifesaver and actually assist nicely with the install.

Quoted from parsonsaj:

Ah, you should have got the Pinstadium Omegas! Those have the diffusers on them which stop the reflections that you can see on your game.

I installed the Omegas as well and love them. Almost no noticeable reflection at all. I had no interest in the colored lights and just wanted a softer, more subtle affect on the playfield and the Omegas do that superbly. In fact, mine are only set at 20% brightness.

#5614 3 years ago
Quoted from jimbodeanny:

Although, I messed up one side the first time, I didn't have much trouble installing the blades. It's my first pin, but I installed them very similar to arcade game side art and they went on just fine. It just takes a little planning and care. I also bought and used the blade protectors. They are a lifesaver and actually assist nicely with the install.

I installed the Omegas as well and love them. Almost no noticeable reflection at all. I had no interest in the colored lights and just wanted a softer, more subtle affect on the playfield and the Omegas do that superbly. In fact, mine are only set at 20% brightness.

Your videos are awesome....well done

#5615 3 years ago
Quoted from jimbodeanny:

Although, I messed up one side the first time, I didn't have much trouble installing the blades. It's my first pin, but I installed them very similar to arcade game side art and they went on just fine. It just takes a little planning and care. I also bought and used the blade protectors. They are a lifesaver and actually assist nicely with the install.

I havent tried taping them like that and working from the middle back. Ive wrecked 3 or 4 sets on wonka already so have no interest to try them again hahaha. Although I really want that brick factory ones from Tilt in there! And i do have the side protectors... Tilt has been great to keep sending me sets... I just really with they cut the bolt holes out!!

#5616 3 years ago

Ok I’m starting to loose it . now I’m into collecting blankets and quilts for my pins , thanks u guys . My wife is like “u need help big time “

5217F539-CEC8-4D9E-9285-24A77D37C35D (resized).jpeg5217F539-CEC8-4D9E-9285-24A77D37C35D (resized).jpeg63CD7C84-D552-4B6B-95FC-19684ED39E74 (resized).jpeg63CD7C84-D552-4B6B-95FC-19684ED39E74 (resized).jpeg

#5617 3 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Ok I’m starting to loose it . now I’m into collecting blankets and quilts for my pins , thanks u guys . My wife is like “u need help big time “
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just tell her you'll play less since you have to take the cover off too

But yeah, that Wonka cover is gorgeous.

#5618 3 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

My wife is like “u need help big time “

Oh I think you are well past that.

LTG : )
Disclaimer : Great, isn't it ?

#5619 3 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Ok I’m starting to loose it . now I’m into collecting blankets and quilts for my pins , thanks u guys . My wife is like “u need help big time “
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes ... YOU have a problem.

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#5620 3 years ago

Question... what exactly is the point of covering the machines like that?

#5621 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Question... what exactly is the point of covering the machines like that?

my guess is to keep dust off the glass

#5622 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Question... what exactly is the point of covering the machines like that?

Quoted from PtownPin:

my guess is to keep dust off the glass

Yep - it's my lazy way to keep all of the glass clean. At least that's an excuse I'll attempt to use. It might provide a limited amount more of UV protection but not a whole lot.

#5623 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Yep - it's my lazy way to keep all of the glass clean. At least that's an excuse I'll attempt to use. It might provide a limited amount more of UV protection but not a whole lot.

Looks nicer when they all aren't turned on too.

LTG : )

#5624 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Looks nicer when they all aren't turned on too.
LTG : )

Yes, I agree
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20200202_162416 (resized).jpg20200202_162416 (resized).jpg
#5625 3 years ago

Ok ok I need the dialed in blanket where did u get it ?

#5626 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Looks nicer when they all aren't turned on too.
LTG : )

Cant agree with that one. I love looking through the glass to see whats under it even when off...

#5627 3 years ago

Just pulled the trigger on a NIB Wonka LE. Stoked. Not sure when i'll get it, but excited. Is it good to go out of the box, or any mandatory upgrades needed? I'll probably do the LED in the backglass as it seems to look a lot nicer.

#5628 3 years ago
Quoted from jester523:

Just pulled the trigger on a NIB Wonka LE. Stoked. Not sure when i'll get it, but excited. Is it good to go out of the box, or any mandatory upgrades needed? I'll probably do the LED in the backglass as it seems to look a lot nicer.

The one thing I'd suggest is inlane cliffys, as the slots get bashed up after several thousand plays. Install them open side down_ (opposite of most games) to prevent stuck balls.

#5629 3 years ago
Quoted from jester523:

Just pulled the trigger on a NIB Wonka LE. Stoked. Not sure when i'll get it, but excited. Is it good to go out of the box, or any mandatory upgrades needed? I'll probably do the LED in the backglass as it seems to look a lot nicer.

Nothing is mandatory really except maybe some mylar and cliffys in some places but there are alot of nice mods that really dress up the playfield and help enhance the world under glass look and feel. Here's mine with some stuff 20191207_170737 (resized).jpg20191207_170737 (resized).jpg

#5630 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Yes, I agree
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

What a great setup.
Hat´s of.

I guess that nascar will be gone in a couple of months?

#5631 3 years ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

What a great setup.
Hat´s of.
I guess that nascar will be gone in a couple of months?

Gone to the other side of the room. ANOTHER weird thing is that my pins are arranged in Manufacturer - Date order. Wonka is my newest JJP pin, and NASCAR is my oldest Stern pin. The rest of the Sterns and 1 Williams is on the other side of the room. My wife doesn't currently want me to sell any pins (I haven't sold one yet) so after a pin I'm picking up this weekend, one will be outcast (voted out) to another room in our basement.

#5632 3 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Ok ok I need the dialed in blanket where did u get it ?

I had it made - I'll PM you what I did so that it doesn't derail this thread more.

#5633 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I had it made - I'll PM you what I did so that it doesn't derail this thread more.

I want one too!Oops wrong game,but I do want one

#5634 3 years ago

Has anyone had issues with their auto plunger being weak and unable to get the ball out of the lane? I have made sure that the arms are touching the ball and increased the coil setting to max. Even had JJP send a new assembly. Same problem. This is so weird. Never had an issue with auto plunger in any other game. Could it be a latent defect in that JJP put the assembly to far back? I don’t know. Grasping at straws. Thanks.

#5635 3 years ago
Quoted from robey99:

Has anyone had issues with their auto plunger being weak and unable to get the ball out of the lane? I have made sure that the arms are touching the ball and increased the coil setting to max. Even had JJP send a new assembly. Same problem. This is so weird. Never had an issue with auto plunger in any other game. Could it be a latent defect in that JJP put the assembly to far back? I don’t know. Grasping at straws. Thanks.

If you pull the plunger empty, do the forks jump? If so, your shooter rod is contacting the autoplunger forks and robbing them of power.

The fix is to loosen the 3 screws for the assembly and reposition it.

#5636 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

The one thing I'd suggest is inlane cliffys, as the slots get bashed up after several thousand plays. Install them open side down_ (opposite of most games) to prevent stuck balls.

Wouldnt the open side up allow the ball to travel down?

#5637 3 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Wouldnt the open side up allow the ball to travel down?

No, I found it caused stuck balls. Inverting them stopped it.

#5638 3 years ago
Quoted from zaphX:

If you pull the plunger empty, do the forks jump? If so, your shooter rod is contacting the autoplunger forks and robbing them of power.
The fix is to loosen the 3 screws for the assembly and reposition it.

So, I've noticed that my plunger does indeed make the fork jump sometimes. The washer on the plunger can barely graze it at times. I haven't noticed any problems in play recently, but now my ocd nature is forcing me to want to fix it. How much of an adjustment is possible on this? It doesn't seem like loosening the 3 screws that hold the mechanism to the playfield will buy me all that much.

#5639 3 years ago
Quoted from crobby:

So, I've noticed that my plunger does indeed make the fork jump sometimes. The washer on the plunger can barely graze it at times. I haven't noticed any problems in play recently, but now my ocd nature is forcing me to want to fix it. How much of an adjustment is possible on this? It doesn't seem like loosening the 3 screws that hold the mechanism to the playfield will buy me all that much.

There is space around the screw holes to move and adjust the shooter rod mounting block. It's not just the screw holes themselves. As you can see in this picture, the block can be moved quite a bit (this picture is obviously not normal and probably due to someone using the shooter as a handle when moving it).

When you move the shooter mounting block, be aware of the front decal, you can scratch, rip or ripple it if you are not careful.

Also remember that the enemy of good is better. Sometimes you can make it worse when trying to make it better. Shooter rod alignmnet can be tricky trying to get the shooter rod dead center on the ball while avoiding the autolauncher forks.

You can also check and adjust the alignment of the autolauncher forks as it hits the ball. Bend the forks further apart to make more room for the shooter rod, etc. You want both arms of the forks to hit the ball at the same time.
wonka cropped1 (resized).jpgwonka cropped1 (resized).jpg

#5640 3 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

There is space around the screw holes to move and adjust the shooter rod mounting block. It's not just the screw holes themselves. As you can see in this picture, the block can be moved quite a bit (this picture is obviously not normal and probably due to someone using the shooter as a handle when moving it).
When you move the shooter mounting block, be aware of the front decal, you can scratch, rip or ripple it if you are not careful.
Also remember that the enemy of good is better. Sometimes you can make it worse when trying to make it better. Shooter rod alignmnet can be tricky trying to get the shooter rod dead center on the ball while avoiding the autolauncher forks.
You can also check and adjust the alignment of the autolauncher forks as it hits the ball. Bend the forks further apart to make more room for the shooter rod, etc. You want both arms of the forks to hit the ball at the same time.
[quoted image]

Yes. Thank you. All I required was a fraction of a millimeter tweak and the washer on the rod is now 100% clear of the forks. The 3 screws for the shooter rod mounting block were perhaps a bit loose for me as well to start with which might have caused my issue to develop over time.

#5641 3 years ago

I had the same shooter issue. I ended up putting a small folded piece of cardboard under the bottom edge of the shooter housing (outside of cabinet side) to angle the shooter rod down a little. worked perfectly and was invisible unless you went looking for it. great game.

#5642 3 years ago
Quoted from jester523:

Just pulled the trigger on a NIB Wonka LE. Stoked. Not sure when i'll get it, but excited. Is it good to go out of the box, or any mandatory upgrades needed? I'll probably do the LED in the backglass as it seems to look a lot nicer.

Here comes another example with the factory upgrade instead of the factory building on the left side.

20191101_122058 (resized).jpg20191101_122058 (resized).jpg
#5643 3 years ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

Here comes another example with the factory upgrade instead of the factory building on the left side.[quoted image]

Looks nice

#5644 3 years ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

Here comes another example with the factory upgrade instead of the factory building on the left side.

That looks really cool.

#5645 3 years ago

While I was down in Brunswick, GA recently visiting the Pinball Palace I was able to meet up with Chuck from Lighted Pinball Mods and picked up my Wonka lighted hinge covers. I put a set of these on all my games and think they look great!

FF628DCA-8771-4E36-B433-2DBA9CC48A06 (resized).jpegFF628DCA-8771-4E36-B433-2DBA9CC48A06 (resized).jpeg
#5646 3 years ago
Quoted from smalltownguy2:

My replacement trough opto should be arriving via UPS today. I'll install and report back with results.
I wonder just how many defective ones there actually were - Looks like SOMEONE is losing their manufacturing contract with JJP.......

add me to the list. My wonka has the opto error message and cannot even play a game now. It was shooting balls out during play randomly and even throwing two balls into the plunger lane. Now it has decided to be unplayable.

Nathan at JJP was very helpful and is only charging me for shipping to and from them even though I'm the 2nd owner of the game.

#5647 3 years ago

Anyone with the tilt topper know where it plugs into? No instructions unfortunately. I’m guessing somewhere in the backbox? Thanks in advance.

#5648 3 years ago
Quoted from TonLoc777:

Anyone with the tilt topper know where it plugs into? No instructions unfortunately. I’m guessing somewhere in the backbox? Thanks in advance.

My JJP topper plugged into he back box....I assume the tilt topper is 12V ... There should be a 12V tap in the back box

#5649 3 years ago
Quoted from TonLoc777:

Anyone with the tilt topper know where it plugs into? No instructions unfortunately. I’m guessing somewhere in the backbox? Thanks in advance.

My tilt topper came with a mezel fused power tap that Y's into one of the existing 12v molex connections. Haven't connected it yet, though.

#5650 3 years ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

My tilt topper came with a mezel fused power tap that Y's into one of the existing 12v molex connections. Haven't connected it yet, though.

Yes mine came with the Mezel molex power tap. Where exactly is the most convenient 12v molex connection? I’ll attach a picture to the only cable accessible in the back box. The tutorial was for dialed in and it looks really different. I have no idea how to even get to that area without removing the Tv screen. Hoping that is not the case. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

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