I really wish they would put like a photoshop type filter on these photos that make them look more "painting" like. POTC did this with the wanted poster selfies and it was a great effect. Surely they could do something similar here?

yeah make everyone a oompa loompa!
That would be great.

I just joined the club. The game needs some adjustment, but I'm enjoying it. I have several questions and concerns, I'll start with an easy one.

How long does it take your game to boot? I have Wonka, DI and Maiden in a row. I decided to start all 3 at the same time, call it +/- 5 seconds. Maiden was ready in about 30 seconds. Dialed In, maybe 50 seconds. I did do a CPU upgrade on DI, but I don't remember it taking any longer before the upgrade, certainly not double. Wonka was nearly 2 minutes. Is that normal?

Two minutes seems a long time. I have a Pirates next to mine and they take about the same time.

Timed it for you.

0s Flick switch!
16s Pop
32s Text appears (loading files)
48s Game is up

Hope this helps you to work out which step is taking too long. Mine is a LE by the way, I don't know if different versions take longer/shorter.

(Although I'd wait 20 minutes to play this game - it's bloody brilliant! )

Mine currently takes 4 minutes. It was shorter when I first got it and I recall it being shorter after I did a full install code update awhile back (1.31 maybe??), but it's currently at 4 minutes to boot. I submitted a ticket to JJP, but their response was pretty much, "move along, nothing to see here". I'm almost certain that something is not as it should be, but haven't been able to debug any more yet. If anyone has solved this issue, I'm all ears.

I had the same issue when I got my Wonka. Reinstallation of the software update solved my problem. Boot time went from almost 5 minutes to just under 1 minute.

Thanks guys, I was thinking about doing a full reinstall and you guys talked me into it.

OK, full reinstall followed by the update and I'm under a minute. Curious to see if it gradually gets worse.

I forgot about the USB extension at the coin door and opened up the backbox for thew first time. The glass was very difficult to get out and the plastic trim for the top stayed in. I almost snapped the plastic trim getting it out and there was no way it was going back in with the glass. I loosened the torx screw to the right of the Jersey Jack plaque and was able to get it back in.

Now to deal with the rest of the issues-

LEDs peeling off in the backbox- Not a big deal, I was planning on adding some more around the perimeter anyway, might as well change them all so they match.

Ball getting caught behind magnet at kids shot- The magnet must have been too high, it is mangled. I will have to either sand flat or buy a new one.

Ball getting caught in the computer shot, sometimes needing a ball search to release- I was told by the previous owner he had to clean the optos a few times. Seems a little odd to need to clean optos so early in the games life but I'll give it a shot.

Prevent chips at the posts from getting worse- What a shame this happens. I know it's a common issue. Is there an accepted fix or band aid at this point?

So is Wonka code fully done now? Haven’t seen an update in a long time now..

I've been running v1.33 since the day I got my LE and it's been great, but one thing I've noticed a few times now is that if I get Slugworth Multiball at the same time that I trigger superlock it will not engage superlock. "Superlock is lit" will appear on the monitor like it should and the game will call it out, but the superlock insert won't illuminate nor will it turn on during the multiball. Pretty minor, but I've had it happen several times. I guess Slugworth is just being a dick!

Thanks to those that posted the instructions for fixing the balky Gobstopper rotation; mine is now spinning like crazy again. It was a simple fix that took about 10 minutes or so. Funny how when things slowly get worse over time, it is harder to notice the change.

What was the fix? Adjusting that gear that seems to slip?

Yeah, please tell me the fix. Sometimes my Gobstopper will stop at 90 or 270 degrees but it usually resets itself during play. The gear wasn’t the problem

Remove the Gobstopper by pulling up on it. Then, turn over the gobstopper and remove the three screws holding the Y-shaped plate in place. Then remove the plate from the Gob and set the Gob aside. At this point, I saw that there were scrape marks on the plate where it had been hitting the two screw heads that hold the motor in place.

You will see a short cylindrical piece of the Y-plate that was inside the Gob. It has two small Allen screws in it. The Allen screw farthest from the Y-plate was not screwed in far enough so the whole assembly was slipping down and hitting the screw heads on the top of the motor. I tightened that Allen screw until it stuck about halfway into the hole in the shaft. I did not touch the other Allen screw.

Just put the plate back in the same way it came out and put the three screws back in to the plate/Gob. Slip it back onto the shaft and you should immediately see that it created a nice gap beneath the Gob. As you slip the glass back on, make sure the glass will clear the Gob. Mine did with no trouble and it spins like crazy now!

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=3507593759259195&id=188992294452708

Finally got my Pinstadiums installed and working properly. Other than a topper, I’m finished modding this game now and am happy with the way it looks.

For anyone who has ordered the TiltTopper topper for this game, how long did it take to get it?

Before and after PinStadium pics below:

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Dang, your backglass looks great! I really need to do that mod.

Yeah it's a lifechanger! For the life of me I don't understand why it doesn't come from the factory that way. I wish I had tried doing this with the $9 LED strip from Walmart instead of the expensive one from LERmods... I think the result would have been similar!

As with most mods, parts aren't expensive, but labor is. It's always cheaper if you can DIY. Our wonka translite is RGB and is done with 5 independent strips to allow for the camera to not be impacted, not causing binding of the strips at the corners and allowing the monitor to be pulled out. That's a lot of soldering.
We provide a mount so the strips face forward for maximum effect (I've seen some that just adhere to the side of the monitor, which will work, but I think with less effect). You also need an RGB controller and need to know how to crimp connectors and what connectors to use, where to plug in, etc. It's all pretty time consuming. For our POTC, DI, Hobbit and Woz translight mods we use single color with a dimmer, and that is about half the price of the RGB version.

We appreciate your business, just wanted to provide a little insight on what goes into it.

Oh please don't construe my remarks as a slight of you guys in any way!

I was pretty impressed with the way the whole package was put together and realize that all of that comes with a cost! I am a person who rarely attempts DIY things anyway... and I appreciate products that are well made and are certainly worth the fact that I can just install them and not have to spend all the time putting them together!

Curious, do you offer a single color with dimmer for Wonka for half the price? I would only want it to be white to show like how it comes stock, but lighting up the areas that arent lit...

no offense taken at all, it's all good and I totally respect those who want to DIY or are even thinking about it.

Yes, we can do white (warm or cool) all around the sides and bottom, it's $66 shipped. you can order off our POTC page since we don't offer it specifically for wonka, but it's the identical set up and connection.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/pirates-of-the-caribbean-jjp-pinball-led-strip-translight-side-lights-kit

Thats great to know! Thank you.

Now, would you be able to tell me what comes as the stock translite? Warm or Cool White?

We just joined the club today. Super excited to get the game set up and playing tomorrow! Come play it at OasisArcadeAirbnb in Lithia Springs Ga soon!

I noticed staple holes in the top of the head. Is that from the factory? Did they put something on the backbox top using staples? The previous owner thought it was from a topper but where's the topper?

Untitledjjp (resized).png

Good to know. I might get a few of the white only for the JJP pins. I have a few other things to get first but these will be added to my wish list.

Man, I hate having these nights where nearly every ball that travels through the left loop goes right down the middle and drains. It's infuriating. I have yet to find any sort of consistent strategy for dealing with that (without a tilt warning.) If it doesn't hit a bumper it seems like there's a 75% chance it's just going straight down the middle. Argh.

If this game has a design flaw I think that might be it...

Believe me, you are not alone!!!

I was going to ask about this, I guess that is my answer!

Wait, I thought the RGB was to change the color of the translite completely, like if you wanted it green, or blue or....

Or are you saying that when it switches colors it makes them pop?

Can someone send a video of the RGB changing colors?

This is why the game needs a mode that incentivises the risk/reward of this area. As it stands the pop bumpers only exist to keep the ball from going STDM. Otherwise they are there just so the game can say it has pop bumpers. The code on this game is good but there is still a ton of wasted potential, particularly with all of the best modes being hidden behind thresholds that even long-time owners will likely never see.

you can have it fade through colors as shown in video or choose a specific color you want, including white.

Just curious does anyone know if Jack himself still checks his emails or not?

It happens a lot with mine too. Definitely sucks.

106793242_960648514348592_8566004240511143953_o (resized).jpg

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If you do use just the $66 white only,does the existing translite led stay in place?

Yes, that’s just the sides, but if you want the top replaced too, I can do that at no charge, Just reach out to me separately. As I stated earlier, single color is a lot less labor than rgb.

My favorite is when it happens immediately after launching and the ball save kicks out another ball and it does the exact same thing, sometimes even a third time.

The video really looks nice! I also was wondering what the cycling lights would look like and honestly didn't think I would care for it. Was thinking of going DIY route and just adding white LEDs. After seeing the video, I'll probably just order the RGB one. While I could spend the time to figure it all out, I really don't want to. I do appreciate the value in not having to go through all that would be required, and the small satisfaction of DIY and cost savings would not be enough for me to do my own. I recently went through the same thought process with a pop eliminator and was glad I didn't create my own. Putting that video on your web site would be good, it says so much more than the static images. I see why you prefer it.

I didn't think I'd like the cycling lights either, but I tried all the colors and I really like the cycling. White is a close 2nd. I don't usually like when colored lights change the color scheme of art, but in the case of wonka it sorta works.

Probaly stupid for asking,but did you carefully level from side to side with a small torpedoe level?
I go right above flippers and then up playfield as high as I can.I mention this because my Wonka rarely does this.

Yep, in fact I did it exactly as you described. I used both a torpedo and digital leveler. I own an LE. Not sure if the model affects anything. (I wouldn't think so.)

I may stand corrected. I rechecked my leveling and while the lower half is perfect, when I checked near the back of the playfield (just below the Gobstopper ramp) I noticed that it was slightly off (not much - the bubble favored one side just a tad more, touching one line). I adjusted one of the rear leg levelers to correct it (maybe 3-4 turns with a wrench). I just played a couple games and it doesn't appear to be draining down the middle as much anymore when it comes out of the left orbit. Time will tell, but so far so good. It would be a major game changer if that corrected it. Thanks for the thought romulusx.

Great I’m glad it helped.

Video is on our website, you just have to scroll through the pics to see it.

It still happens, but not as much. So yeah, an improvement for sure.

I get STDM returns but not nearly 75% of the time. Mine seems really fair in that area. Maybe its a magnetic field or something in my game room because my Ghost Busters doesn't do that either.

I see that now... just missed the arrow to move to additional content. Thank you.

Same here... they seemed really high when I first got it, but it doesn't seem particularly bad at all now. I don't think it is anything I am doing to prevent them. I might track the percentage to see, but am guessing < 25%.

So, if the $66 kit does not replace the stock lights, are the stock warm or cool white? Obviously I would want it to match the stock ones to have the same color throughout.