Quoted from romulusx:What is the actual date?
In the movie its Oct. 1st.
I know the remake says Feb.
Not sure if there are other changes. strange actually reading about it online.
Quoted from romulusx:What is the actual date?
In the movie its Oct. 1st.
I know the remake says Feb.
Not sure if there are other changes. strange actually reading about it online.
Quoted from romulusx:What is the actual date?
Reading more, apparently the book has it as Feb. 1st.
Was listening to Joe Rogan on youtube while catching up this thread. Elon Musk was the guest, didn't know he purchased Gene Wilder's house. It is episode #1470 around 10:30 in.
I had a large nut fall into the cab while playing. It sounded like it dropped from the bottom of the PF, but I can't be certain. It's about .75" across the flats, and .425" threaded ID. I can't find anything that appears to be this size under the pf. Does anyone have an idea where it came from??
15889380900031630418188241481195 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinash:I had a large nut fall into the cab while playing. It sounded like it dropped from the bottom of the PF, but I can't be certain. It's about .75" across the flats, and .425" threaded ID. I can't find anything that appears to be this size under the pf. Does anyone have an idea where it came from??
[quoted image]
Check the kid magnet
Quoted from Rager170:One of these would make a cool topper for Wonka.. but I cant get over the that the date doesnt line up with the original movie...
https://safespecial.com/products/willy-wonka-and-the-chocolate-factory-golden-ticket-led-neon-sign?variant=12188477718611
Was thinking about this then I found a better picture of it. May be hard to mount as a topper...
Screenshot_20200508-120051 (resized).pngQuoted from Pinash:I can't find anything that appears to be this size under the pf.
Please check around the backbox too, see if any bolt looking thing is missing a nut there.
LTG : )
Quoted from daveyvandy:Was thinking about this then I found a better picture of it. May be hard to mount as a topper...
[quoted image]
Thanks for that! I did email them to see if they could change the date and my next question was going to be where the lights sit.
So that will not work.
I wonder if you could remove that light piece and simply run lights like other toppers where they sit underneath.
Quoted from branlon8:Really? I kind of thought these two pins were about as different as can be, but I do not own Wonka (but I’d like to, that’s why I lurk here). Are there aspects in the rules or layout you think are similar or is it more the feeling you have when playing?
Playfield/layout wise they feel very similar I highly recommend both, but like I said before if you own 2 pin collection I wouldn’t buy those two pins to have together I personally love wonka better but that’s just my opinion.
Quoted from zaphX:Check the kid magnet
Bingo, thanks!
In other news, I can finally see the playfield thanks to pinstadium
IMG_20200508_203223326 (resized).jpgIMG_20200508_203157394 (resized).jpgCan you guys hit the factory ramp from a cradle? My left flipper can can hit any shot (including backhanding the Gobstopper ramp) from cradle except for that right ramp.
EDIT: After opening the eos a little and tightening up the axial flipper bat travel with my Marco shim tool (thinner than a credit card) I seem to be hitting the ramp at about 80-90%. I think I am satisfied, but I'd like to see how your machines shoot.
Never had a problem hitting that ramp from cradle from a flipper power point of vew. Now aiming, that's a different story
I can hit that shot from cradle. It is a somewhat difficult shot to make on my machine, I have to hit the ball from the very tip of the flipper, otherwise the ball always seems to want to go up to the Wonkavision area. My machine is leveled correctly too so it must be due to different tolences of the analog mechs because I remember it being a much easier shot when I played on a different machine.
Quoted from SaintJB:Big thanks to RhinoPins for the tips on how to install an LED strip behind the backglass. It looks awesome!
[quoted image]
That looks great,how did you do yours?
Quoted from romulusx:That looks great,how did you do yours?
I followed this...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wwcf-club-wonka-golden-tickets-inside/page/92#post-5486601
Quoted from SaintJB:Big thanks to RhinoPins for the tips on how to install an LED strip behind the backglass. It looks awesome!
[quoted image]
Nice. Definitely one of my favorite mods.
translight_mod (resized).pngI broke a part, the captive ball cover 30-100028-04 pictured here:
It looks like it will be a while due to the move, which got me wondering if this part could be improved by someone with a CNC router.
I see two problems with this part:
1. The two "teeth" sticking out are thin (one of mine broke) and also do not extend down enough to prevent the guard from rotating out of position. I believe this could be improved by making the teeth thicker and longer, such that the wireform would hold the guard in position.
2. I've had stuck balls land on the top edge of this guard - if it were a little bit taller, I believe that would correct this.
Anyone else care to comment?
Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 2.04.51 PM (resized).pngQuoted from SaintJB:Big thanks to RhinoPins for the tips on how to install an LED strip behind the backglass. It looks awesome!
[quoted image]
Great job! What a difference it makes.
Looking back at that post I wasn’t as descriptive as I normally am for a walkthrough. Did a better job over on FB. Glad you figured it out. .
Quoted from zaphX:I broke a part, the captive ball cover 30-100028-04 pictured here
Sorry to hear that; I just had a close look and sure enough one of the two prongs on mine is on its way to being broken; there is a crack forming on the right hand prong and it is a bit bent so I will keep an eye on it. You are right if they were longer then they would be able to hug the wireform and might add a bit more strength, I guess that was the original intention but dimensions must have changed?
My dad has a knack for finding that stuck ball spot which is perfectly demonstrated by the number 4 in the image you posted - like, every game, he finds it. I like your idea about making it longer, but the bottom of the bracket that holds my oompah loompah in place is flush with the top of that plastic (in some respects maybe adding a bit more support to it). But it means there wouldn't be room if the length of that plastic was extended as is, it would need to be a fraction thinner. I think the oompah loompah can be moved forward and back a small amount so there is some leeway, but I found he looked best all the way forward. I do wish there was something we could do to cover that gap though.
Quoted from zaphX:I broke a part, the captive ball cover 30-100028-04 pictured here:
It looks like it will be a while due to the move, which got me wondering if this part could be improved by someone with a CNC router.
I see two problems with this part:
1. The two "teeth" sticking out are thin (one of mine broke) and also do not extend down enough to prevent the guard from rotating out of position. I believe this could be improved by making the teeth thicker and longer, such that the wireform would hold the guard in position.
2. I've had stuck balls land on the top edge of this guard - if it were a little bit taller, I believe that would correct this.
Anyone else care to comment?
[quoted image]
Yea I'd be up for a improved one also.. mine broke a while ago. Since it broke I get more airballs out of that area too...so wld be nice for a better one..
Quoted from zaphX:I broke a part, the captive ball cover 30-100028-04 pictured here:
It looks like it will be a while due to the move, which got me wondering if this part could be improved by someone with a CNC router.
I see two problems with this part:
1. The two "teeth" sticking out are thin (one of mine broke) and also do not extend down enough to prevent the guard from rotating out of position. I believe this could be improved by making the teeth thicker and longer, such that the wireform would hold the guard in position.
2. I've had stuck balls land on the top edge of this guard - if it were a little bit taller, I believe that would correct this.
Anyone else care to comment?
[quoted image]
Mine broke as well. It happened before I got the Factory ramp "cover" that is now standard. JJP replaced the plastic for me, but I agree that it isn't a great design.
Quoted from Rager170:If the cover breaks, is the captive ball still usable for playing?
Sure, the purpose of the cover is to prevent a stuck ball there.
Guess who's back?
Standard has to be the best value in Pinball.
So far my concerns of having DI and Wonka together and them feeling too similar are no longer there. Def feel different enough. I can't get enough Pat.
Quoted from zaphX:Sure, the purpose of the cover is to prevent a stuck ball there.
Good to know, thanks.
Quoted from delt31:Guess who's back?
Wait, what? You had an LE and sold it, then got an SE? I missed all of this.
Quoted from delt31:Guess who's back?
Standard has to be the best value in Pinball.
So far my concerns of having DI and Wonka together and them feeling too similar are no longer there. Def feel different enough. I can't get enough Pat.
Yep my 2 favorite pins of all time with Wonka le edging out dile by just a little...mostly due to lighting and the 4 flipper layout.
Quoted from bigd1979:Yep my 2 favorite pins of all time with Wonka le edging out dile by just a little...mostly due to lighting and the 4 flipper layout.
Great to hear. Seriously considering pairing DILE with my Wonka CE without having played DILE.
Quoted from zaphX:Wait, what? You had an LE and sold it, then got an SE? I missed all of this.
Yeah - I like Wonka but not at the LE price point. Sound in particular still bothers me. At SE price point though, it feels like a great deal. Layout is so good on this game. Could have been a masterpiece
Quoted from delt31:Yeah - I like Wonka but not at the LE price point. Sound in particular still bothers me. At SE price point though, it feels like a great deal. Layout is so good on this game. Could have been a masterpiece
The sound is my biggest beef with this game too. That's about all I've got to complain about though.
Quoted from davisjl1979:The sound is my biggest beef with this game too. That's about all I've got to complain about though.
Agreed.
Quoted from delt31:Yeah - I like Wonka but not at the LE price point. Sound in particular still bothers me. At SE price point though, it feels like a great deal. Layout is so good on this game. Could have been a masterpiece
It's a tough one with lots of goals to work for too, making it interesting for the long haul.
I personally like the sounds, but I've got the CE callouts so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Quoted from zaphX:It's a tough one with lots of goals to work for too, making it interesting for the long haul.
I personally like the sounds, but I've got the CE callouts so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Callouts are fine.
The sound effects and music has a scratchy/fuzzy quality to it. Lack of clarity.
Quoted from davisjl1979:Callouts are fine.
The sound effects and music has a scratchy/fuzzy quality to it. Lack of clarity.
I wonder if that's a hardware issue - have you tried unplugging the harness to the volume control? There is one wire you can remove which has fixed "fuzzy/scratchy sound" on POTC..
Does your machine sound different from mine here?
Quoted from zaphX:It's a tough one with lots of goals to work for too, making it interesting for the long haul.
I personally like the sounds, but I've got the CE callouts so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I wish I has the CE callouts - I like them more than LE/SE but that's not saying much ; )
Good to see Jack do that though for you CE guys. Pirates did a great job with that too.
Quoted from davisjl1979:Callouts are fine.
The sound effects and music has a scratchy/fuzzy quality to it. Lack of clarity.
I agree. The sound is super thin. I had a defective speaker that was giving me a scratchy sound. Its fixed but the sound quality is not as good as my WOZ.. noticeably not as good.
Quoted from zaphX:I wonder if that's a hardware issue - have you tried unplugging the harness to the volume control? There is one wire you can remove which has fixed "fuzzy/scratchy sound" on POTC..
Does your machine sound different from mine here?
Very hard to tell from listening to a video...
I do know that the sound quality seems to be one of the biggest complaints with the machine. Its the worst sounding machine I own quality wise.
Quoted from Rager170:I agree. The sound is super thin. I had a defective speaker that was giving me a scratchy sound. Its fixed but the sound quality is not as good as my WOZ.. noticeably not as good.
When I first got my Wonka it did seem the sound was thin compared to my DILE.I hooked it up to a Polk 10” and it sounded a lot better.Is this lessser sound due to sound guy or equipment?
Quoted from Rager170:Very hard to tell from listening to a video...
I do know that the sound quality seems to be one of the biggest complaints with the machine. Its the worst sounding machine I own quality wise.
I really haven't felt that way. I'd still try to eliminate a hardware issue. How does it sound on headphones?
Quoted from romulusx:When I first got my Wonka it did seem the sound was thin compared to my DILE.I hooked it up to a Polk 10” and it sounded a lot better.Is this lessser sound due to sound guy or equipment?
I can't recommend this enough. Without a sub, the sound is so thin. Prob the worst I've heard of all jjp when not using a sub. In general though their sound isn't as full as the others.
Polk 10 are on all my machines. Big upgrade. Forget updating internal sub or speakers - external I find is the best bang for your buck.
I also recommend tweaking the tv. Colors were washed out beforehand.
Quoted from delt31:I can't recommend this enough. Without a sub, the sound is so thin. Prob the worst I've hard of all jjp when not using a sub.
Polk 10 are on all my machines. Big upgrade. Forget updating internal sub or speakers - external I find is the best bang for your buck.
I also recommend tweaking the tv. Colors were washed out beforehand.
No shit the contrast sucked on mine,you know when it’s right because it’s so much brighter and sharper.When the screen is bootin it should be black not green
Wonder if some are having sound issues? Mine sounds great without a polk but it does enhance it alot when on. The hobbit sounds the best of the jjp pins imo but overall jjp pins sound much better than any other company I have owned.
Quoted from delt31:I can't recommend this enough. Without a sub, the sound is so thin. Prob the worst I've heard of all jjp when not using a sub. In general though there sound isn't as full as the others.
Polk 10 are on all my machines. Big upgrade. Forget updating internal sub or speakers - external I find is the best bang for your buck.
I also recommend tweaking the tv. Colors were washed out beforehand.
Any numbers you can list to set mine at? Mine looks good overall but di and potc do look sharper and more vivid.
Quoted from Noma2017:Great to hear. Seriously considering pairing DILE with my Wonka CE without having played DILE.
I've owned most top pins and I wld be completely happy if dile and wonka le were my only 2 . I have some great others now but only wonka and di have been played over the past 6 months or so.
Quoted from bigd1979:I've owned most top pins and I wld be completely happy if dile and wonka le were my only 2 . I have some great others now but only wonka and di have been played over the past 6 months or so.
That’s the problem with these two pins,you don’t want to play anything else!
Quoted from romulusx:That’s the problem with these two pins,you don’t want to play anything else!
Yep at this point I sld just sell everything else which I may actually do .. cld be.a nice down payment on land or new house..
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