Sellersburg, IN
I'd like to see a flashing in purple when the ball is going to kick out of the scoop. If that is possible. And it could override any color on the ramp already.
(Topic ID: 15309)
Linked Games
TRON: Legacy (Pro)
Stern, 2011
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Yes, we had that before but it was interfering with another effect. I forget the specifics. Perhaps a good time to revisit it and add that option. I'll add that to the feature request in the shared document.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:I'd like to see a flashing in purple when the ball is going to kick out of the scoop. If that is possible. And it could override any color on the ramp already.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:I'd like to see a flashing in purple when the ball is going to kick out of the scoop. If that is possible. And it could override any color on the ramp already.
Something that works REALLY WELL.. is taking the flasher from the Arcade cabinet for the scoop eject.. and relocate it to under the scoop. It shines up from the inside of the scoop. I just have it pure-White LED.. and it looks AWESOME when it is going to eject the ball.
In the event the light tubes cannot flash, at least the scoop does.. and looks awesome. in my opinion.
Finished up the install last night
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=gifCX4YRz1M
Toronto, ON
I received my package from Eli on Monday and started last night around 11:30pm. I got as far as removing the ramps and the existing sound activated EL wires off the ramps. Tonight I will have to peal off the hot glue used by the previous owner, clean up the outer orbit lane and switch over to white rubbers since everything is exposed.
How did you mount your light engines Sc1f1? I am probably going the aluminum bar route and making a stop at Home Depot during my lunch.
I need to get the bar. I just used a tiny screw into the tall plastic stand offs included... not as secure as I'd like. I'll be going the bar route soon. I just spent the last 2 evenings removing me EL wire and moving over to the fiber.
Using the stand off method you really need more fiber Eli. If the engines are facing the PF using the bar you are probably good but if you have to find a spot and use the stand offs I was kind of short on fiber. Also if you mount them facing to the side using the stand offs you will need to make a blinder on the bottom of the engine to stop the light from bleeding up through the inserts.
The bar method you would probably need the heat shrink tube.
They look unreal... now to update the code this evening 
Quoted from Sc1f1:I need to get the bar. I just used a tiny screw into the tall plastic stand offs included... not as secure as I'd like. I'll be going the bar route soon. I just spent the last 2 evenings removing me EL wire and moving over to the fiber.
Using the stand off method you really need more fiber Eli. If the engines are facing the PF using the bar you are probably good but if you have to find a spot and use the stand offs I was kind of short on fiber. Also if you mount them facing to the side using the stand offs you will need to make a blinder on the bottom of the engine to stop the light from bleeding up through the inserts.The bar method you would probably need the heat shrink tube.
They look unreal... now to update the code this evening
I used the standoff method. On the right I used an existing playfield post with a nut and installed there. Nice and secure. On the left I used an existing screw, but I mounted the standoff using a longer and larger (thicker) screw for a more secure fit/hold. They have both held up great, so far.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:I used the standoff method. On the right I used an existing playfield post with a nut and installed there. Nice and secure. On the left I used an existing screw, but I mounted the standoff using a longer and larger (thicker) screw for a more secure fit/hold. They have both held up great, so far.
Pictures please.
Wow nice job. It never occurred to me to install them that way and with the heat shrink tubing to eliminate the light escape on the inserts. Excellent idea.
Quoted from pinballlooking:Looks good. Thanks for sharing.
No problem. I'm going to have to use some black posterboard to make a shield. The disc insert in the pop area still picks up some light.
Quoted from luvthatapex2:Wow nice job. It never occurred to me to install them that way and with the heat shrink tubing to eliminate the light Escape on the inserts. Excellent idea.
The instructions mention installing it this way with the stand offs that are included.
Thanks for the pictures it will other to get an idea of how to use the stand offs for mounting.
I have to get the black poster board too
The closer the better, it should be touching the LED, that also means it runs through those black spacers for best alignment.
Also it might not require a light shield if you use a separate piece of heat shrink on the "interior" part of the LED engine, it should fit through the hole in the circuit board easily and reach all the way down to the top of the black delrin spacers leaving only a bit of light exposed.
Quoted from mwong168:From this picture posted by another tester it looks like a lot of light escapes from these emitters and not only from the wires.
That is actually how the light is getting to my disc insert since I mounted mine sideways with the standoffs. It is coming from the side of the pcb, not the tubes.
There were no install instructions 10 months ago
Quoted from Sc1f1:The instructions mention installing it this way with the stand offs that are included.
Thanks for the pictures it will other to get an idea of how to use the stand offs for mounting.I have to get the black poster board too
Quoted from ecurtz:The closer the better, it should be touching the LED, that also means it runs through those black spacers for best alignment.
Also it might not require a light shield if you use a separate piece of heat shrink on the "interior" part of the LED engine, it should fit through the hole in the circuit board easily and reach all the way down to the top of the black delrin spacers leaving only a bit of light exposed.
Good idea Eli I'll try that today
thanks again
There was a new ramp lighting build released last night(r1e), so I'd recommend the new owners update their game. Check the shared document in the email you received from Eli for a link. Also, please check the document for active discussions.
Are there some of the 11 new owners awaiting receipt/install of your kits? Just curious.
Quoted from luvthatapex2:owners awaiting receipt/install of your kits? Just curious.
I should have mine installed by tonight or tomorrow night hopefully. Spent most of last night cleaning up the glue the previous owner used to install their EL wire and did a quick clean up of the playfield too. Thanks for the update and can't wait to try it out.
Quoted from Drano:I also have a whack of installation photos. If anyone needs help.
I did the bar method just like the other two beta testers.
This may help some of you trying this:
What is a good way ro bend the light bar? It is 24 inches long but straight.
Well how does one bend the light bar?
Finished installing using the standoffs. There was a good amount of insert bleed so ended up using strips of cardboard and tape to close up the openings in the light boxes. Eli walked me though sticking point on software install. Had resisted updating the Stern code until now but updated it too. Threw in 3rd gen cliffy on the arcade scoop and added scoop light. Few more mods to add (speaker panel lights, lighted cycles and black mirror blades).
Eli has made two of the coolest after-market mods with his mini tron arcade and programmable fiber optic ramp lights. How cool are these? Very top notch!
Also updated acdc premium code from 1.0 this weekend.
Lots of pinball testing this weekend.
Well how does one bend the light bar?
I did mine by hand and used the edge of this counter top and it sounded very crunchy Drano told me to be careful because the aluminum can be very brittle and can break easy. Once I got the shape I used a hacksaw to cut off the ends and drilled the holes to secure under my playfield. The hardest part or more time consuming part of the install was just drilling the ramps and zip tying the fiber wires otherwise if I was to do it again I could probably have it all done in under 2 hours.
IMG_20130504_003201.jpg IMG-20130504-WA0003.jpg
The first time I turned the game on I was blown away by the stunning and vibrant colors given off by each wire and my favorite effect by far is seeing the ramps light up blue and yellow is light cycle mb. I am planning to update to the latest code posted last week but the code it came pre-loaded seemed to work just fine.
Thanks to Eli for putting together such an amazing mod and to the all testers and coders who have made the current code what it is today!
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:Well how does one bend the light bar?
It's aluminum, so it'll bend pretty easy. Lay it on the floor, put a piece of wood on top of it with the edge of the wood at the point you want to bend it, step on the wood, and pull up on the bar (as close to the wood as you can). It'll bend.
For the two bends on the end, it's a little more tricky to use the wood trick. I grabbed the end with a pipe wrench and applied some force.
Quoted from herg:For the two bends on the end, it's a little more tricky to use the wood trick. I grabbed the end with a pipe wrench and applied some force.
I opted to leave the left end a bit longer to make bending it easier and cut off the excess because there is plenty to spare.
Great to hear more have their kits installed. I think all but 4 are installed now. Party!
The code installed already in the kit is fine, it works, but there were several updates recently.
Version r1e is in the shared document, but we are testing r1h, so the code is getting tighter and tighter with herg and Eli's collaboration. I'll be testing the double scoring effect tonight to be added in the next update.
Quoted from luvthatapex2:The code installed already in the kit is fine, it works, but there were several updates recently.
...and the more people that are using the latest code and reporting bugs via the shared document, the faster we'll be able to improve things.
Outstanding work on this guys....alot of us out here really appreciate all the effort put forth to get us something dependable once its ready!
Quoted from mwong168:I did mine by hand and used the edge of this counter top and it sounded very crunchy Drano told me to be careful because the aluminum can be very brittle and can break easy. Once I got the shape I used a hacksaw to cut off the ends and drilled the holes to secure under my playfield. The hardest part or more time consuming part of the install was just drilling the ramps and zip tying the fiber wires otherwise if I was to do it again I could probably have it all done in under 2 hours.
The first time I turned the game on I was blown away by the stunning and vibrant colors given off by each wire and my favorite effect by far is seeing the ramps light up blue and yellow is light cycle mb. I am planning to update to the latest code posted last week but the code it came pre-loaded seemed to work just fine.
Thanks to Eli for putting together such an amazing mod and to the all testers and coders who have made the current code what it is today!
Nice work Mike!
Eli, any idea how far out we are on the production ready units?
I can't wait to add this to mine!!
Gamle Fredrikstad
This mod looks great.I have been following progress for months thinking it would never be made available.I would like to get on the list for one of the production models .Thanks for making cool mods for Tron.Thanks again Eli.
Still don't have a firm release date for the production units, but every week it gets a couple days closer! 
If you've PMed me or posted here I'll be sure to let you know as soon as they're up for pre-order.
Spent several agonizing hours today looking at boot code so that you guys won't have to install any weird software to do code updates. Just ask the testers, you'll be glad to wait a few extra days in exchange for the convenience.
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:What is a good way ro bend the light bar? It is 24 inches long but straight.
Sorry Jeff,
Been a bit occupied these days.
I used a vice for a nice clean bend. Use a mallet for the final few taps. It gives it a nice factory look.
Quoted from rai:Does the ramp light with each shot on the ramp or only in certain modes?
For the most part, it displays a color that corresponds to the highest ranked mode that is currently running. There are also some quick bursts of color in response to certain shots. It does a synchronized countdown at the end of a ball, and a rotating color display during attract.
Of course, all of this is with the included code. It is completely customizable.
Quoted from hoby1:In the last pic I had the wires switched on the light engines. Everything is 100%. It actually make for a better game as you dont have to keep looking at the dmd to tell what mode your in or its priority.
Has everyone updated their boards to version r1h? This version makes the stacking effect timing better. We are testing a few new effects in the next build now.
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